What is selective perfumery. Selective Perfume: What is it? The most famous brands

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The art of being original: what is a niche perfume?

The concept of niche perfumery comes from the French "La niche" - in the literal sense of a niche, a cell; figuratively - a certain segment that is exclusively occupied by someone or something. In the Russian language (as far as I understand) this concept (in its figurative representation) entered a long time ago and firmly. “He found his niche in art”, “the product has taken its niche in the market”, etc. - it's all just about our topic.

Niche perfumes are compositions created according to the exclusive formulas of the authors. This is a complete author's creativity, not limited by the scope of the customer, prevailing trends, ingredients used, price limits, etc.

Is the niche exclusive? Undoubtedly! Will you be original in it? Undoubtedly! Is it worth spending a lot of money on such fragrances? Why not, if you have the means and desire? Are you guaranteed to love a niche fragrance? No, no, and another hundred thousand times no! Belonging to a group does not mean unambiguous sympathy. Everything as always - try it! But we will talk about this a little lower.

Niche fragrances - this is the freedom of creativity! This is one of the highest manifestations of perfumery art. This is “this is how I see it” in its olfactory performance. But do you like all the pictures of the world? Isn't there a difference between classical music and the underground? Are ballet and actionist manifestations of modernity the same thing? It's the same with niche perfumes.

Exclusive mono fragrances, for example, dedicated exclusively to rose or peony, or another component - this can be a niche. But “black caviar burned in the wheel of a new car against the background of rotten algae” can also refer to this group.

What is niche?

Classifying niche fragrances is a thankless task, because of their versatility. But still, they highlight the main characteristics that distinguish this group from others. Let's look at them and see if everything here is true:

• Officially, there are no mass advertising campaigns. It is believed that brands spend money on quality ingredients, not on advertising. All this is not entirely true. Indeed, pop stars advertising these fragrances, as a rule, you will not see. However, magazine articles, interviews with perfumers, and similar materials often come out with new releases. Is this not an advertisement?
• Such brands have a full-time perfumer. Yes, in most cases it is. Moreover, perfumers are often the founders of niche brands. Nothing prevents a master from working for many years on mass compositions, and then (sometimes in parallel) opening his own niche line. A striking example is from Jacques Cavallier.

Only the presence of a full-time perfumer cannot be an indicator of a niche - regular perfumers also have a large number luxury brands. For example, François Demachy y or Thierry Wasser y .

• Niche fragrances are not sold in major department stores, but only in exclusive boutiques.. The same is not clear. Such brands have their own (often mono-brand) stores (by the way, they are very interesting - consultants there are usually very adequate and know their products inside and out!), but what do you want to do with brands that produce luxury, but present and individual niche collections? Do you think they will open separate stores for such lines? Hardly!

It turns out that all three indicators are quite relative. Like everything in this world. To confuse you even more, I will tell you that some brands manage to find their niche inside another niche :-)

Niche and selective: synonyms or separate groups?

You may have noticed that I have never used the term "selective" or " selective perfumery”, and many call the niche that way. I am correcting myself. Selective and niche perfumery are synonymous! But, as elsewhere, there are individual "wise men" who are ready to make money on terms and confuse us with you.

The essence of the problem is that manufacturers of mass fragrances (the same term, but more on that another time) often use the word “Selective” for marketing purposes (in the sense of: exquisite, selective, original). So they wanted to name their work like that, and nothing is able to stop them.

In order not to get confused, you need to understand: when the phrase “Selective Perfumery” is used in reference books or articles, in most cases they are talking about niche fragrances. However, the word "Selective" on a product's packaging may mean absolutely nothing.

Let's remember the main segments of perfumery (in this context):

Please note that I am basically not talking about the quality of goods in these segments. Do not swear right away, but in my opinion, although this is important, it is secondary. Primary - your perceptions and those of your loved ones.

In one of the materials, we have already discussed with you the so-called. " " when the fragrance should:

1. Like you.
2. Do not annoy loved ones.
3. Do not harm colleagues.

Problems begin when this "self-proclaimed elite" begins to see the "gray mass" around, squeezing itself out of the category of "ordinary people". The next step, as a rule, is a dismissive attitude towards others. And if their work turns out to be useless to anyone, then the time of “unrecognized geniuses” and “cattle” comes at all.

All these are quite philosophical things, and do not directly relate to niche perfumery (or rather, they are far from being only related to it). But we need to pay attention to this for several reasons:

• If such an "elite" finally turned on his own genius, then his creations should be treated with a certain skepticism. This does not mean that they are bad - on the contrary, masterpieces of art are often created by frank psychos - this means that you need to be more careful and conduct the test more carefully.
• Whatever the thirst for creativity, whatever spiritual impulses guide the creators, they also want to eat, sorry for the banality. So the commercial component must be present. That is why their stories about (I exaggerate) “universes created in your imagination by the fragrance I created yesterday, under the moonlight and to the sound of the violin, with which the composition is thoroughly saturated” should not always be believed. Let them smell the "smell of moonlight and violin music" themselves, and you have your own nose - it will tell you everything about the aroma.
• Quite often, niche fragrances are dedicated to a certain area: a resort, a city, a district. This is the author's vision. It is quite normal to want to reproduce the smells associated with a favorite place. Another thing is that your and the author's olfactory opinion on the same geographical object may differ. For example, “the aroma with the smells of New York” (for some reason, this is the city that people like to “smell” the most) can cause the expectation of the smells of Soho, but it will turn out to be Harlem.

Now the main thing is that these "elites" continue to consider themselves as such, if it flatters their pride. Be it a brilliant perfumer, a talented designer or an ordinary consultant - let them be "bohemian"!

But everything they do, create, sell - for you! Without you they are nothing. You are the main link in this chain. Your likes and dislikes should determine what you will smell of today, and not the opinions and talents of the "elite". The main thing is you, and the entire elite is needed only to serve your interests. They are your personal perfumers, your servants, if you will. Know this, but never tell "bohemian" ;-)

There are two main conditions in the production of exclusive fragrances - this is the inspiration of the perfumer and natural ingredients. To avoid confusion, you should know: selective perfumery - what it is - niche fragrances, perfumes that are produced in a limited edition. Rare plants, tree resin, aromatic oils are used to create them.

What does selective or niche perfumery mean?

What is niche perfumery and what is selective perfumery? Niche cosmetics is a term that is used to define rare species perfume. Selective is a perfume fragrance that belongs to "niche cosmetics". selective spirits occupied a certain niche or cell, hence the conclusion: selective perfumery is part of a niche.

How is it different from the rest

To easily distinguish a selective perfume from another, you need to know which groups it is divided into:

Massmarket - perfumes of a low price category. Such aromas quickly disappear without having time to open up. Sold in markets, supermarkets, hardware stores.

Luxury perfumes - eau de parfum, perfumes of famous fashion houses, brands. They are distinguished by an extensive amount of advertising with the participation of popular personalities. A wide range of fragrances, last up to 24 hours, the price range varies. These are perfumes of wide production with the use of synthetic products.

Selective perfumery is a product of a creative process using rare plants and natural ingredients. Such aromas on each person "sound" in their own way, they last from 24 hours to two days. They are limited edition, there are no more than 500 distribution points around the world. They use ordinary glass or original bottles with precious metals, stones and leather. At the same time, the price of some fragrances is not higher than luxury perfumes. The cost of such an exclusive bottle can reach several hundred thousand dollars.

Features of selective perfumery

Even if we take into account all the pluses, uniqueness, selective perfumery - perfumes are “not for everyone”. The fact is that they can seem specific, even harsh. In addition, they are mostly unisex fragrances. Niche perfume on a man reveals more tart notes, on a woman's body - softer, gentle, sensual. These perfumes change the view of the world of perfume, after using them you do not want to return to the familiar world of smells. The sound of the fragrance depends on the body temperature, the weather and even the mood of the person.

Selective perfume brands

Niche perfumes are increasingly attracting the attention of people, especially women. Every year new selective brands appear, new names are heard. Not so much because it's profitable, but because it's something creatively new. The desire to expand the boundaries, to surprise the world, to speak out pushes more and more talents to try themselves in the world of exclusive perfumery. Someone remains a sensual romantic, while someone becomes an innovator.

Serge Lutens

The Serge Lutens brand is distinguished by its originality and great taste. Serge Lutens, the founder of the brand, is an authority in perfume circles, and the brand itself is one of the most popular. One of the first fragrances by Serge Lutens, the floral Sa Majeste La Rose conquers with essence tender rose paired with sweet honey, light notes smoke and wood. The composition is complemented by musk, cloves. Perfume Fille en Aiguiles created on the basis of pine needles and incense in combination with bay leaves and fruits. This perfume is best revealed in late autumn or winter.

Tom Ford

Former creative director At home, Gucci collaborated with Estée Lauder on two cosmetic lines. Today the name Tom Ford is very popular. He received recognition not only for the collection of clothes, but also for the creation of an exclusive perfume. The brand's line includes more than 30 fragrances for women, men and unisex. Each of them has luxury and sophistication.

Orchid Soleil or Solar Orchid is a women's perfume. The combination of orchid, red lily, tuberose, pink pepper and whipped cream will conquer the tender nature. The bouquet opens from brighter to more delicate oriental. For men, Tom Ford Noir is presented - the base consists of patchouli, civet and vetiver. Add bergamot, cumin, violet, nutmeg and pink pepper to them, and you will get an incredible elegant and mysterious aroma.

Etat Libre d'Orange

The translation of this brand sounds like "Country of Free Oranges." Brand founder Etienne de Swardt has a truly rich imagination. Knows how to emphasize the exclusivity of fragrances. With his perfume, he seeks to awaken sexuality, reveal the secret, give freedom to hidden desires. He uses rare perfume combinations. The smell of sweat, blood, semen are the usual components of these selective perfumes. "Charming Secretions", "Palace Whore", "Virgin and Toreador", this exclusive brand attracts interest only with its outrageous names.

"Enchanting secretions" refers to a woody scent. It is based on coconut, lily of the valley, apricot and lilac. The composition is added with accords of iodine, the smells of blood, iris and sandalwood. A truly bewitching, bewitching perfume. "Virgins and Bullfighters" is an amazing combination of soft, sweet notes with brutal ones. Musk, tuberose, patchouli, bergamot and vetiver fit perfectly in one bottle.

Escentric Molecules

All of Geza Shawn's perfumes are based on the Iso E Super molecule, which is obtained from chords of musk, amber, oriental flowers and woods. Escentric 01 consists of Iso E Super, pink pepper, lime, mastic tree resin. Muscat and woody notes of the bouquet give a special warmth. Molecule 01 is a mono-flavour, consisting of one component, the same Iso E Super molecule. It has a pheromone effect. Perfume sometimes attracts with its mystery, sometimes it repels with sharpness.

Montale

The French brand of selective perfumery Montale is distinguished by its love for exclusive fragrances. Founder Pierre Montal created perfumes for Arab sheikhs. The works of the French brand Montale are unique, their basis consists of a mixture of aromatic oils, and the proportion of alcohol is minimal. They are distinguished by their durability, charming sense of romance and magic.

For feminine natures, Montale offers Crystal Flowers fragrance. Delicate floral aroma of the East combines lily of the valley, rose, mandarin and musk. Chocolate Greedy with hints of chocolate, vanilla, coconut, orange zest is perfect for lovers of sweets. The combination of plum, orange, geranium and rose presented in Dark Purple will captivate brave, extraordinary ladies.

C&R Create

The idea to combine the zodiac signs with perfume came from astrologer Robert Boehm. 24 fragrances, two for each zodiac sign, for men and women. For example, Aries for Men smells like trees: pine and cedar. Dilute with jasmine, geranium, blue mint. The nature of the spirits corresponds to the strong, assertive, tactful Aries. For the emotional Virgo, a floral fragrance of white flowers, vanilla, pear, bergamot, cloves, cinnamon is presented.

Comme des garcons

Rei Kawakubo is a well-known designer and founder of a Japanese perfume brand. This laboratory has created not only the luxury fragrances Comme des Garçons, Odeur 53, Champaca, but also six selective perfume lines:

• Sherbet, "edible" smells;
• Leaves, dedicated to lily, mint, tea;
• Red, dedicated to the color red;
• Incense, dedicated to religion
• Colonge, three colognes in XVIII style century;
• synthetic line.

Among floral fragrances presented by Comme des Garcons Series 2 Red: Rose with combinations of rose, raspberry, pink pepper, paprika, blueberry. Such a romantic bouquet will conquer refined natures. "Series 5 Sherbet: Peppermint" with mint and cardamom in the base is suitable for lovers of spicy perfume. For men, des Garcons Comme De Garsons 2 Man is presented. These perfumes based on nutmeg, mahogany, leather will add zest to the image of a confident man who loves to be the center of attention.

amouage

Exclusive, unique, inimitable aromas have a perfume Amouage brand. The perfumery of the Arab country is one of the most expensive and is distinguished by its luxury. It uses rare components that grow in Oman and are prohibited for export. The price of such perfume compositions starts from 10,000 rubles.

AmouageCiel- feminine fragrance in a crystal bottle. Violet, peach blossom, rose, jasmine, cedar, sandalwood for charming, true women. Image for romantic evening will complement the spirits of Epic of Woman. A floral bouquet of roses, geraniums, jasmine combined with spices - cumin, cinnamon. Oriental sweets, sandalwood, vanilla will add tenderness and mystery to the image.

The most popular selective perfumes

Selective fragrances are gaining popularity, finding a place in the hearts of the sophisticated. Among them is a wide selection of perfumes for men and women, but unisex remains the most popular. Montale, Amouge, Etat Libre d'Orange occupy the first lines among well-known brands of niche perfumes. This proves the exclusivity of fragrances. Among them are Montale Chocolate Greedy, Serge Lutens Daim Blond.

The main misconception regarding elite niche perfumes is the high price. There are brands, exclusive fragrances that are available to everyone, you can buy such perfumes at points of sale. In Moscow, there are such stores in the shopping center "Prestige M" and in the Central Department Store, in St. Petersburg in the shopping center "Rainbow". These same stores offer online shopping. In addition to points of sale, there are online stores where you can order exclusive perfume online with home delivery.

Among all the variety of online stores, it is difficult to choose the one that will offer a quality product. It is worth paying attention to the prices. A fake will always be cheap relative to the original. Before buying online, it is better to first get acquainted with the fragrance in person, so as not to make a mistake with the choice of your selective brand and choose your scent.

Video

There has been a lot of talk about selective perfumery lately, but few people have a clear idea of ​​what it really is. Wonderzine tells how the popularity of the Dior fragrance has influenced the emergence of niche brands, what is the best selective and what is happening with this industry now.

liza kologreeva

SELECTIVE Perfume is called if it is released in a limited edition and is sold in a small number of stores. Small means 400 or 500, and not 4000 or 5000, like Chanel and Dior (we are not talking about their exclusive lines now). Such fragrances have a much more complex structure than a mass perfume: the number of notes increases many times, and among them there are frozen wood or mushrooms with champagne. The selective is different high quality raw materials - special synthetic components are produced for it and choose natural products. For example, it is believed that it is better to go to the Maghreb countries for an orange tree. In 2005, L "Artisan did this: the brand bought most of the orange crop in Tunisia and released 3,000 bottles of Fleur d`Oranger.

BOOM The selective took place in the second half of the 20th century, 1985 is considered a turning point. Then the legendary Dior fragrance - Poison appeared in stores: its sales were so great that they provoked the appearance of even more fakes. Perfumers thought about developing niche fragrances - and selective brands appeared one after another. However, there are also brands with a long history - Creed appeared in 1760, and Dorin was loved by the entire court of Marie Antoinette - which existed before the division of the perfume market into segments.

Aubepine-Acacia -
fragrance of the French brand Creed of 1965: it belongs to a series of perfumes designed specifically for celebrities

It is selective brands that arouse the interest of buyers to a greater extent, this also applies to perfumes - the fragrances of Amouage, Boadicea, Diptyque, Montale, Maison Francis Kurkdjian are becoming increasingly popular. All of them primarily pay attention to scientific developments, use natural and biologically active ingredients, minimize the use of parabens and other chemicals. There were also unpopular brands in our assortment. And in this case, we are talking about organic perfumes, such as Melvita. We are well aware that they are the future, but so far they do not arouse due interest and do not resonate in the soul of our buyer. Now you should not use the term "niche" - this is a bad form. Niche perfumery consists of expensive ingredients and comes in very limited quantities. Selective does not mean expensive.

FOR SELECTIVE A brand is usually worth one perfumer. Francis Kurkdjian creates a signature brand Maison Francis Kurkdjian, and Pierre Montal created fragrances for oriental kings and queens, but returned to Paris and launched a brand of surprisingly long-lasting fragrances made from natural ingredients Montale. Sometimes several perfumers work on brands - but they often have one creative director.

LIKE MOST PERFUME BRANDS, the selective keeps production in France. The reason is that it is more difficult to find ingredients in local markets - or to store them in desired condition during transportation. A good half of oils for convenience is produced in the same France. In countries that do not specialize in the perfume industry, only small handmade brands are bottled. Those who want to build up a slightly more global pace again go to France - one of the most famous selective brands, Byredo, had a factory in Sweden, but it was also moved south.

Unisex fragrance Dries Van Noten - part of olfactive portraits by Frederic Malle. It came out in 2013

Niche fragrances are great because you can use them in everyday life, but still stand out from the crowd. Choose this perfume if you want to smell elegant and simple, but at the same time very unusual. For example, do you like lilies of the valley, but the smell of air freshener on your skin does not suit you? Rescue niche perfumery. In the market, we are in between a mass market like Dior and collectible fragrances.

Our segment has difficulties. For example, the level of quality of oils and components, in principle, sometimes leaves much to be desired. We constantly need to follow the trends in packaging design and every time try to pleasantly surprise people, and do it unobtrusively. Byredo is your ideal companion if you love modern Art and pure flavors with a beautiful story.

Gypsy Water fragrance
smells of fresh soil, forest and fires -
as befits the name

Historically, almost all niche perfumery is based in France and Italy. Italy in general is incredibly important for the global market, because there are only such a number of independent shops there. It is in Italy that two major international exhibitions are held - spring and autumn, in Milan and Florence. The first is "Esxence", where the producers themselves exhibit their products, and the second - "Pitti Fragranze" - distributors. The division into spring and autumn has nothing to do with seasonality. It's just that these are two competitors, and they should not coincide in time.

Demeter is based in America, there are private little-known perfumers, but there is no serious industry anywhere except in Europe.

Why jewelers and fashion houses create their own fragrances

Bestseller - Chanel No. 5 and the re-release of the historical fragrance of 1925 - Chanel Gardenia, which costs completely different money Every self-respecting major fashion or jewelry house that also produces perfume under its own name, with the spread of niche perfumery, has acquired its own selective lines. For example, Chanel No. 5 fragrance is included in the main perfume line and costs quite real money ($120 on the brand's website), while Gardenia from the Chanel Les Exclusifs selective line costs $3800 (price per 900 ml). Meanwhile, both an independent perfumer from a niche brand and an eminent commercial perfumer from big house the same materials and possibilities. Many independent masters have access to oils and essences that are purchased for the same Coco Mademoiselle by global manufacturers. Even the production of both of them in most cases is handled by one of the two best Swiss companies - Firmenich or Givaudan.

Sometimes the whole process rests on one person: he independently purchases the ingredients from several manufacturers, mixes and pours everything himself - of course, not on his knee, but very professionally. This is how the Frenchman Pierre Guillaume, creator of Parfumerie Generale, an exemplary French brand with tiny circulations, works. the simplest packaging and names of fragrances by numbers (25 perfumes in total, not counting intermediate ones like 6.1).

Photo: Sasha Karelina

Why there are no gender fragrances in niche perfumery

Selectives are not divided into male and female - this is the same trick of marketers as the concept of "unisex fragrance". Historically, perfume has been a gender-neutral product. For example, those very woody notes that are usually added to what any nose defines as men's fragrance, are more about elegance than masculinity.

Photo: Sasha Karelina

How much does selective perfume cost?

A long time ago, a talented couple named Bobo created the Pepsi Cola flavor, which won many awards for its packaging. The product was comparable in price to any fragrance from the mass market, and this despite the fact that several eminent perfumers worked on it. Known to all, Demeter also went down the path of humorous, even scandalous, and are also sold at very affordable prices. The aroma of beetroot, dust, cemetery, funeral home - yes, they simply scoff at the industry!

Demeter is perhaps one of the most famous brands in selective perfumery, but still did not cross the line of 250 points of sale. But the stereotype of “expensive selectives” did not come out of nowhere. Yes, small-circulation fragrances are more expensive to manufacture, they are made up of persistent natural oils, often hand-packed - that is, they simply cannot cost 1,500 rubles. If the composition contains diamond dust or oil of the only representative of a plant species on the continent, the price can reach fantastic proportions.

Is it possible to mix flavors

If for someone Lacoste copes with the role of the ideal smell, then this is absolutely normal, and one should only be glad that someone found their fragrance so easily. But it happens that a person listens to aromas for a long time, chooses, chooses, but even the most complex smells seem simple to him. In these cases, the consultant mixes different perfumes for him - some brands have schemes for the most successful combinations, others have to be chosen on a whim.

Why Perfumers Can't Be Trusted

There are people who prefer mono-aromas. More precisely, they think they prefer it, because a mono-perfume is the biggest deception in the world: it's all the same, whatever one may say, a composition. Each fragrance has one very bright ingredient, which is beautifully framed by a huge amount of other oils. A person simply may not know how the original source smells. So you come to the store, take the product, it says Fleur D'Orange. You listen and believe that this is how orange flowers smell, because how can a Russian person know how orange flowers smell? Or L’Artisan Parfumeur had Mimosa Pour Moi. But mimosa has no fragrance oil, and Mimosa Pour Moi is a composition various ingredients, which together resemble the smell of mimosa. Or, for example, the same with tuberose (a plant of the agave family. - Approx. ed.): we took Fracas by Robert Piguet as the unit of tuberose. And this is not tuberose, this is a classic trio of tuberose, jasmine and orange blossom.

Well, about the classification: as in the mass market, all division depends on the proportion of alcohol, aromatic substances and water. The weakest concentration is Eau de Cologne, then Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum (or day perfume as we call it) and finally Parfum. But even in niche perfumery, there are cases when a perfumer allegedly works in the Eau de Parfum format, and his concentration of oils does not even reach the Eau de Toilette.

Is there a niche perfumery in Russia

There is also an exhibition in Moscow, Intercharm, but big perfumers almost never come there. In general, if we talk about the Russian trace, then recently we have the first niche perfumer, Maria Borisova. Fragrances of her brand Selection Excellence are made in Belgium, wooden caps for bottles are made by a Tver master, and the bottles themselves are made at a factory in Austria. And in the US, two girls with Russian roots started the pro-Russian brand Sulékó, for example, they have the woody-musky fragrance Baba Yaga in a stupa-shaped bottle. Another Russian trail is Fragrantica, an online perfume encyclopedia where you can read everything about absolutely every fragrance on the planet. The owner of the project, Elena Knezhevich, founded a house called The Vagabond Prince. Their bottles are painted Khokhloma, Russian-Pre-Russian, even unnecessarily.

In Russia, the consumer is very specific. For example, if the name of a fragrance contains the word "rose", no one will ever buy it. For some reason, people do not like to know that his perfume contains a Bulgarian or Turkish rose, but in fact, almost no fragrance can do without it.

10 fragrances with an unusual smell: the choice of the "City"

Figue Fruitee by Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger

Photo: Sasha Karelina

One of the best free interpretations of fruit fig, which is not an oil plant - that is, it does not give oil, and can only be synthesized in perfume. Eau de Parfum is produced in the collection "Fragrances of Provence", which is run by Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger - a company that, in addition to selling all sorts of souvenirs from Provence, supplies oils to perfume houses.

Laboratorio Olfattivo Alkemi

Photo: Sasha Karelina

Three independent perfumers have teamed up to create a line of nine fragrances called Laboratorio Olfattivo. This perfume - a viscous, heavy "Alchemy" - was invented by Marie Duchesne, who built it not on the traditional pyramid (although formally it is still present) of base, middle and top notes, but on a single smell of old oak barrels with whiskey, which I kept in my head all this time.

Jade Olivier Durbano

Photo: Sasha Karelina

Olivier Durbano, whose name this perfume bears, is not actually a perfumer - he has worked all his life in a jewelry house named after himself and has a passion for semi-precious stones and minerals. A series of colorful fragrances created under his leadership by five guest perfumers is a declaration of love for jasper, crystal, moonstone and five other species. Inside the bottle with green Jade are three jade balls, which allegedly give the perfume its fragrance.

Parfumerie Generale Hyperessence Matale

Photo: Sasha Karelina

The note of green tea in perfumery is not uncommon, but other tea varieties were undeservedly forgotten before the advent of Hyperessence Matale No. 12. The great Pierre Guillaume of Parfumerie Generale dedicated a whole series of Hyperessence Matale to the drink. Aroma No. 6 turned out to be extremely successful with green tea, after which Guillaume decided to make the perfume stronger, so the base note was not classic green, but black tea. Since it is impossible to obtain oil from it, tea is subjected to photo-refining - ultraviolet irradiation, during which it emits a smell that can be fixed.

Leather by Franck Boclet

Photo: Sasha Karelina

A distinctly masculine perfume by French fashion designer Franck Boclet. In 2012 he opened perfume house and started the business with a series of mono fragrances built around his favorite scents in the world - leather, oud, patchouli and incense. Each bottle is packed in an organza bag, which Boclet himself compares to a woman's leg in a stocking.

Monsieur by Huitieme Art Parfums

Photo: Sasha Karelina

Another work by Pierre Guillaume, already under a different name, in the Eighth Art series. From the very beginning, the bottles in this series were white and contained the aromas of various edible products. Monsieur is the first unambiguously masculine and therefore black. Here, again, there is no traditional pyramid, the smell rests on two pillars - smoke and incense.

Jasmin and Cigarette Etat Libre d'Orange

Photo: Sasha Karelina

The Etat Libre d'Orange project has dozens of fragrances with provocative names, but rather harmless sound. Among the most memorable is "Jasmine and Cigarettes" with orange, jasmine and tobacco. Say hello to Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich blowing smoke from a black and white screen into a dark cinema.

Korloff In White by Korloff Paris

Photo: Sasha Karelina

The Korloff jewelery house, symbolized by the 88-carat black diamond Korloff Noir, makes jewel-shaped caps for all its fragrances. One of the most non-trivial - 88 ml bottle frosted glass with the crisp, tangy freshness of snow inside.

liquid money

Photo: Sasha Karelina

Ex-Microsoft VP Patrick McCarthy once read on the Internet a study by Japanese scientists who found out that money smells - moreover, this smell motivates you to succeed. Without thinking twice, McCarthy found a perfumer and created two fragrances - male and female - with the smell of cotton and metal shavings, which together give the scent of a freshly printed banknote. Interestingly, the bottle is packaged in a real 20-dollar piece of paper cut into long strips.

Sucre d'Ebene Huitieme Art Parfums

Photo: Sasha Karelina

Reliable liquid brown sugar in a retrofuturistic bottle of the same Pierre Guillaume, who figured out how to pack smoke and incense in glass, the nose of a professional will immediately understand that the sugar is irradiated with ultraviolet light and infused with musk. The rest can be content with a clever imitation of the smell, from which the appetite instantly wakes up.

Dear readers, we apologize for the mistakes made in the material. We corrected: the names of the Italian perfume exhibitions "Esxence" and "Pitti Fragranze", clarified the volume of the Gardenia perfume bottle, added the missing letter in the name of Mimosa Pour Moi and removed the extra one in the name of Firmenich. If you notice any other inaccuracies, please feel free to report it.

Two corners on the 1st and 4th floors of the department store, the first is owned by Rive Gauche and sells at a discount on a gold card mainstream niche perfumes like Serge Lutens and Byredo; on the 4th, the fragrances are more expensive, largely due to the Tsvetnoy mark-up.

Member of the Bosco family with three cosmetics and perfume stores. Specifically, for a niche, it’s better to go to GUM, where there are Jo Malone, Diptyque, and selective lines of brands like Chanel and Guerlain

The popularity of selective perfumery is growing rapidly, as it is not focused on the usual tastes of the majority. Her creation built on the principle of the individual sound of perfume on human skin. Selective, or niche, perfumery is designed to narrow circle her true connoisseurs.

What are selective and niche perfumes

To understand what selective or niche perfumes mean, you need to know what perfume products are today. conditionally divided into the following groups:

What characteristic of a niche perfume:

Review of the best selective perfume brands for women

Armel

Bright selective women's perfume Armel brands from the Amplua series are designed for lovers of explosive odors. Moreover, there is an opinion that these are one of the most attractive. This is due to the use of essences not only of plant but also of animal origin.

The perception of these smells ranges from admiration to complete rejection, and when choosing them, you should listen to the recommendations of experts. If this is your scent, then you will enjoy it. play of scents of satin cedar, leather, vetiver, musk and nulu balsam. Lovers of floral fragrances similar to Flora will be enchanted by Armel 122 with its fresh citrus, sweetness of peony and rose on a base of patchouli and sandalwood.

Molecule

Judging by the rave reviews, this is one of the legends of selective perfumes. Its aromatic composition, mixed with the natural smell of the skin, creates unique and sensual fragrance. Barely perceptible at first, after a while it suddenly strikes the sense of smell with its bright sound.

The basis of the Molecule is the synthetic element Iso E Super, provoking an amazing play of smells. At the very heart of the perfume, there is a subtle scent of iris, which fills the main woody note with a tart and spicy sound.

Montal

Among the selective perfumes of the Montal house, which have absorbed warmth and charm, Montale Roses Musk is especially popular. Unique, durable and an exquisite fragrance created for charismatic women, for each of them sounding differently. This stunning effect is achieved with the help of three notes in its composition: dominant, but delicate and alluring rose, spicy musk and jasmine.

Amouage

Each of the selective fragrances of the famous Amouage house, which embodies all the luxury of oriental fragrances, is unique in its own way:

Keiko Mecheri

Niche perfumery from Keiko, permeated with Eastern philosophy and Western cosmopolitanism, recognized as true art without borders. The extravagant composition of scents from Keiko is openly in dissonance with well-known perfume brands.

Among the favorite perfumes, the fragrances of the seductive Iris Pourpre and the emancipated Datura Blanche stand out, driving you crazy scents of tart pomegranate, musk, Indian sandalwood, amber haze, osmanthus and wild blackcurrant.

Odori

There are about a dozen luxury fragrances by the Italian brand Odori, but each of them is a masterpiece. Tabacco, Iris, Cuoio and other Odori perfumes gravitate toward vanilla, honey, caramel and all kinds of citrus. As you can see from the photo, each bottle of Odori selective perfume is framed by expensive wood packaging and sealed with a genuine leather cap.