Watch ruby ​​stones. Why are the same stones in mechanical watches

Swiss watch mechanism- this is the holy of holies of mechanical clocks, where the uninitiated are strictly forbidden to enter. Many myths are associated with the use of stones in watch calibers. For example, it was previously believed that the number of stones affects the quality of the move. Is this really so and why these stones are called precious - we will try to clarify in today's article. The main question lying on the surface remains the role of stones in mechanisms. After all, not a single marking without indicating the number of stones inside the caliber.

Each watchmaker will answer without a hitch that the stones in the watch are needed in order to stabilize friction and reduce the degree of wear of the contacting surfaces of the movement. The NIHS 94-10 standard on the function of stones in a movement was adopted in Switzerland in 1965.

Watch mechanism and mineral bearings

The watch mechanism is designed in such a way that its main axles are constantly under load: the mainspring makes them rotate, and the spiral adjuster restrains this rotation. The support of balance accounts for the most big job: in addition to reciprocating movements, a rather weighty balance is attached to it. The junction of the axis with the platinum - the fixed part of the mechanism - is subjected to strong friction, and in order to stabilize it in Swiss watch device special bearings are used.

It is known that the coefficient of friction of hardened steel and ruby ​​is exactly the same as in a pair of steel and brass. Why do watchmakers use precious minerals in Swiss watch movements? The trunnions of the axles that are inserted into the bearing are very small in diameter and are only one hundred microns. Therefore, stones in watches are needed rather to increase the durability of the axle bearings in the mechanism, where reducing friction is a natural solution to the problem. The advantages of stone over metal are obvious: it does not oxidize or corrode, and a polished stone surface will retain its shape longer. Stones are better able to withstand the impact load of the anchor fork horns and the pressure of the escape wheel projections.

First time use gems in the watch mechanism was proposed by George Graham, the founder of the Graham watch manufactory. In 1713, Graham invented the free anchor escapement, which is still used today. Graham's hand is responsible for the creation of more than three thousand copies of pocket watches, and each of them contains ruby ​​​​bearings. Starting in 1725, it was possible in caliber.


Rubies in watches and their optimal amount

Rubies in hours located inside the mechanism depending on the functions. In the usual three-hander, the optimal number of ruby ​​\u200b\u200bstones reaches seventeen. Sometimes the design approach forces us to change some of the stones for brass bearings, and in this case, the true number of stones is written in the characteristics of the watch. Each additional complication adds a number of jewels to the movement.

There are many curious cases when the number of stones is several times greater than their required number. For example, markings that include fifty, eighty, and even one hundred stones are bewildering to the buyer. A lot doesn't mean good. This move is confusing for beginners. All stones that are actually used in the movement of a Swiss watch are called functional. All other stones on the caliber perform a decorative function, which do not fit into the standard marking adopted throughout the world.

Where are stones not needed? IN quartz watch. The only moment of load on the wheel gear occurs during the rotation of the stepper motor. Due to the virtual absence of a mechanical movement in quartz watches, wear is almost completely prevented. Therefore, if the characteristics of a quartz watch indicate the number of one, two stones or no stones, this does not mean anything terrible. Those manufactories that are very High Quality without a single stone.


Mechanical Swiss Watches for two centuries were made with real ruby ​​stones inside the mechanisms. The situation changed when in 1902 the technology for growing artificial rubies was invented. Such a turn of history in many respects allowed mass production of watches. Nowadays natural minerals are used very rarely, because artificial stones are more reliable in work and easier to process than natural ones. Of course, the realization that a watch caliber contains natural rubies brings great aesthetic pleasure. But from using synthetic stones the value of real watch masterpieces is not diminished.

Stones in the watch mechanism are used to stabilize friction and increase the life of the contacting elements.

The source of energy in any watch mechanism is a spring, which looks like a flat steel band. When the watch is wound up, it curls up and absorbs energy. The second end of the spring band is attached to the drum, which transfers energy to the gears, creating a wheel system that provides energy transfer. The speed of rotation of the gears is controlled by the presence of a trigger mechanism, consisting of many moving elements mounted on axles.

Any mechanism that includes rotating axles needs to minimize the friction of the moving elements on the base. The less friction there is, the longer the watch can run without winding and the longer the parts will last. Any other mechanism could use bearings, but the same stones are used in watches. They are not afraid of wear and corrosion, and the polished surface of the stone remains perfectly smooth and clean for a long time. In addition, watch stones prolong the life of the mechanism, since the friction of a stone on metal does not affect the condition of the movement as much as the friction of two metal elements.

Special attention deserves an impulse stone, which is installed on the pendulum and constantly strikes the horn of the anchor fork. The impulse stone must be particularly hard-wearing.

What stones are used in the clock mechanism?

Natural diamonds and rubies in their watches are used only by manufacturers of premium products, and then usually only in limited editions or in models made to order. Mostly stones in watches are artificial sapphires and rubies. Some watch manufacturers, such as Seiko, even have separate divisions dedicated only to the preparation of watch stones. By the way, artificial stones even better cope with their tasks, as they have a more uniform structure and do not contain impurities.

Number of jewels in the watch

It is worth clarifying right away that if 17 stones are installed in one watch, and 40 in the other, this does not mean that the second better than the first 2 times. In watches with automatic winding and three hands, a maximum of 25 jewels is installed, it will not be possible to install more even with a great desire. A greater number of stones are used only in watches with chronographs and other complex mechanisms. However, some manufacturers, trying to attract the attention of the buyer, deliberately install stones in places where they are not needed.

Modern manufacturers of mechanical watches use stones for four purposes:

  • Through (accept radial loads in axial supports).
  • Overhead (reduce friction at the ends of the axles).
  • Impulsive (transfer energy to balance).
  • Pallets (ensure the normal operation of the anchor fork).

The basis of any wrist watch- these are through stones, of which there must be at least twelve. Each through stone has a small indentation designed for watch oil. The generally accepted standard indicates that a watch must be set with at least 17 jewels, although last years there has been a clear trend towards the use of 21 stones, which has a positive effect on the wear resistance of mechanisms.

Vika Dee September 30, 2018

Remember, back in childhood, we looked at father's or grandfather's wristwatches, on which the model, brand and number of stones were indicated. I have always been intrigued by the question - what are the stones in the watch for? And if they are also precious, then the watch itself became a family most valuable relic. We have grown up, but still this question can still excite. To understand this, you need to understand the work of the clock and what the notorious pebbles mean by themselves.

Stones in watches

"15 jewels" in the watch - what does it mean?

Let's figure it out first what are stones V mechanical watch? So, watch stones are indispensable parts, sapphires or rubies are most often used, for durable work and less wear resistance of the product. These are bearings that stabilize the friction of parts in contact with each other. Usually 15-17 jewels are used per watch. Such a set is only in standard movements, expensive models have a much larger amount of jewelry in their composition.

In turn, they can be divided into:

  1. Functional. These are the ones that are designed to work in the mechanism, provide durability and reduce friction between parts.
  2. non-functional. Pebbles for decor. They have no connection with the axle supports, they can serve to hide stone holes.

On the dial, they usually write the first option, that is, the number of functional crystals.

How do mechanical watches work?

To understand this issue in more detail, you need to know how mechanical watches work. Any specialist knows what precious parts are for. Let's understand the issue in a simpler language.

The watch is powered by a special spring that looks like a flat steel band.

When you start the mechanism, the spring compresses and stores the energy that it transfers to the drum. The latter, rotating, passes it to the gears. Gears forming a special wheel system, rotate gradually, without wasting all the energy at once. How does this happen?

This problem is dealt with trigger mechanism. It completely controls the operation of the gears and prevents them from rotating randomly. At the head of this system is a balance regulator. Why is he needed? And in order for the wheel to rotate at a certain speed in one direction and the other.

Stones in clockwork

Functionality and work of stones

The stone in the watch is used instead of the bearing. The mechanism works on rotating parts that have their own axes. Each of them experiences tension from two sides, from balance regulator and from the spring. Everywhere there is a process of friction. To minimize it and reduce wear, bearings are needed. That's just their function and perform the stones.

What is the advantage of such unusual, but such necessary details?

Artificial or precious materials do not wear out or corrode

If they are properly sanded and processed, they will be smooth and clean all the time. They increase service life rotating parts. By the way, stones are not only used in watches. There are also impulse stones in pendulums.

Luxury in watches: jewels and their quantity

Now many are disappointed. natural ruby or diamond stones are very rare. Usually only limited and expensive production models are found with such a unique set. The most common is corundum, a crystalline mineral that has its own special structure of synthetic ruby ​​or sapphire.

mineral corundum

Such a mineral is also excellent affects wear resistance. Some stones are much better than natural ones. This means that synthetic material is better, more uniform and better due to the purity of the product.

How many jewels are in the watch? Many people are interested in this question. It is worth remembering that product quality does not depend on the number of stones.

For a good and durable watch, 15-20 stones are enough

It is simply pointless to put more than 25 stones in the mechanism. If the information from the manufacturer indicates the presence of 35 stones, for example, then this is no longer a simple three-hand mechanism.

Swiss models are very rubies are often used. The same question immediately arises - why do we need ruby ​​stones in mechanical watches and why are they good?

ruby stones

Mechanical Swiss watches throughout their history were made only with rubies, moreover, natural ones. Everything changed only in 1902. It was at that moment that the technological explosion» - a method was created for growing artificial stones. There are mechanisms where they are not used. These are quartz products. It doesn't matter how many stones were used. It has its own system of work, which consists only in a single wheel gear. Only at that moment does the transfer of energy take place. In a quartz watch, 1-2 ruby ​​stones can be involved, but this does not mean that the integrity of the mechanism has been violated. You can find out what time it is without them.

The use of crystals and precious materials in watch mechanisms has long been overgrown with myths and legends. But having understood this issue, you understand that there was nothing supernatural and complicated. Just need look deeper, to the very heart of the watch – to its mechanism.

15/04/2003

Stones are probably the most intriguing part of the watch mechanism. Why is their number always marked on the watch case or dial?

Stones are probably the most intriguing part of the watch mechanism. Why is their number always marked on the watch case or dial? Why do the British call them precious (jewels) and how much do they cost? What role do they play in the mechanism? Does their quantity affect the quality and cost of the watch itself? And these are just surface questions.

When asked why stones are needed in watches, any specialist will answer without hesitation: “To stabilize friction and reduce the degree of wear of the contact surfaces of the mechanism.” This is how the function of stones is indicated in the NIHS 94-10 standard, adopted in 1965 by the Swiss organization NIHS (Normes de l'industrie Horloge Suisse). Let's try to figure out what this means.

The stone sharpens the trunnion
If at least in general terms to imagine the work of the clockwork, it becomes clear that its main axes must be under constant voltage: on the one hand, the force of the mainspring presses on them, forcing them to rotate, and on the other, the speed of their rotation is restrained by the balance-spring regulator. The balance support experiences almost the greatest load throughout the mechanism. Not only does this axis perform reciprocating movements at high speed, but the balance itself is also fixed on it - a weighty thing.

The trunnions, with which the axles are in contact with the platinum and bridges of the mechanism, are made as thin as possible in order to reduce friction in the axle bearings and the energy consumption of the spring to overcome it. In any mechanism, a bearing is installed with a rotating axis and a fixed frame (platinum) to stabilize friction.

So, watch stones are usually used as bearings or thrust bearings for axle pins. In fact, it cannot be said that the stones are used to reduce friction in the axle bearings. And in principle, the coefficient of friction in a pair of hardened steel - ruby ​​​​(diamond) is approximately equal to the coefficient of friction of hardened steel paired with brass. Why then use jewels as bearings?

As mentioned above, wrist and pocket watch pins have a very small diameter - 100 microns. And it is known that the pressure force directly depends on the area of ​​the contacting surfaces. Thus, watch stones are designed not so much to reduce friction as to increase the durability of axle bearings in watches. In addition, the stones do not corrode, and by grinding the stone, you can get a perfect and long-term clean surface.

In addition to supports, stones are used in two more places that are subject to intense impact. Pallets are made from them, fastened on the shoulders of the anchor fork, and an impulse stone. Again - only a very strong mineral can withstand the pressure of the escape wheel teeth and impacts on the anchor fork horns.

It is not surprising that watch stones became a real godsend for watchmakers in the 18th century, when the era of pocket watches began. The mechanisms became so small that the parts under the pressure of the mainspring quickly became unusable.

The first watch with precious stones in the mechanism was produced in 1704. But the idea of ​​using them in such unusual quality belonged to the great English watchmaker George Graham (George Graham 1673-1751), who became famous for the invention in 1713 of the free anchor escapement mechanism, which is most common in our time. During his lifetime, Graham created over 3,000 pocket watches, and in all of them, since 1725, the axles, pallets and impulse roller are made of ruby.

Where are the stones
Since we figured out exactly what the stones are for, let's see what shape they should have, the types of stones and where exactly in the watch they serve.
Watch stones can be of the following types:
through
invoices
pallets
impulse

Through stones are the basis of watches. There are 12 of them in the classic 17-jewel movement. They perceive radial loads in the axle bearings. Some of them have cylindrical or olive (rounded) holes. In all through stones there is a special recess - an oiler that can hold watch oil.

Overhead stones are designed to reduce friction on the end surfaces of the axles. They are installed, as a rule, on the balance and axles of high-speed wheels. In quartz watches, thrust bearings are sometimes not placed at all.

The optimal number of stones in a simple mechanical watch with a side hand is 17. They are usually located as follows:

Balance support - 4 (2 through and 2 overhead)
Impulse stone (ellipse) - 1 Idle wheel axle - 2
Pallets - 2 Escape wheel axle - 2
Anchor fork axle - 2 Central pinion - 2
Axis of the second wheel - 2

Sometimes manufacturers, for design reasons, remove some of the stones: they put the stone only on the lower support of the central wheel, and press the brass bearing into the upper one, being guided by the fact that it has less pressure. In this case, it will honestly be written on the clock: 16 stones. Well, if the watch has a central second hand, there is no need for a second axis and the number of jewels is reduced to 15. Naturally, various additional devices and dials - calendar, stopwatch, automatic winding can increase the number of jewels.
IN Lately modern mechanisms use 21 stones: two pairs of stones are also placed at the ends of the axles of the anchor and third wheels, overhead stones are placed.

Industry versus nature
Until the beginning of the 20th century, real gems were found in pocket watches both inside the mechanism and, as a decoration, on the case. Everything changed when, in 1902, the technology of growing artificial sapphires and rubies was invented, which made it possible to increase the production of watch movements many times over. Watches have become a commodity. Now natural rubies are practically not used in watches. From a technical point of view, grown crystals are more stable in their properties and more predictable in processing. The only aspect by which real stones are still considered better than artificial ones is aesthetic.

A lot - not a little?
If in the previous section the typical species and the classical arrangement of stones were described, now let's see what deviations from the accepted norm are more common.

In principle, it is clear that the number of jewels in a watch depends on the number of axles. If, for example, a chronograph has additional dials with second hands, then it would be nice to protect the trunnions of their axes with stones, the same is the case with the repeater axis. However, when you come across such markings as “50 stones”, “83 stones” or even “100 stones”, bewilderment arises: how and why were they stuffed there ?!

In watchmaking, there is such a thing as “non-functional” or “decorative” stones - they can, for example, close an ugly hole in the circuit board or simply decorate the mechanism - if back cover transparent. But, according to the standard adopted throughout the world, only the number of functional stones is indicated on the marking. At least on all watches made after 1965. What is the point then?

The fact is that the concept of "functionality" is quite extensible. Someone thinks that the stones set for a smoother running of the calendar disk are not functional. But they really reduce friction, and much more. In conventional mechanisms, a force of 20-25 grams per millimeter is required to set the disc in motion. And the stones allow you to reduce this effort by half, which means significantly reduce the load on the mechanism. Isn't it functional, say, for ultra-thin or complex mechanical watches, which, in addition to the chronograph, also have moon phase indicators, power reserve and other functions?

True, there are quite funny examples. For example, the American company Waltham has released a watch on... 100 stones. 17 stones in them were in their rightful places, and the remaining 83 were placed around the circle of the self-winding rotor. At the same time, it turned out that 84 holes were drilled on the circumference, and one of them remained gaping with emptiness - the manufacturers did not want to exceed the round figure. The course of the rotor, hung with stones, was, of course, smoother, but this effect could be achieved due to fewer stones.

Or another example: a watch by a Swiss manufacturer, which, out of modesty, did not indicate its name, but proudly placed the marking “41 stones” on the lid. As you can see in the photo, 16 of these stones are inserted into the drum wheel, apparently to keep it from rubbing against the mainspring. Friction is, of course, reduced, but in a rather wasteful way. Although if people bought these watches just because of the number of stones indicated on the case, it is difficult to call them completely “non-functional”.

Another "extreme" is a watch without stones, because they are, in general, not needed in quartz movements. The wheel gear of the quartz mechanism is loaded only at the moment when the stepper motor turns. And in this case, since there is practically no tension in the axles, the only thing that is needed to reduce friction and prevent wear on parts is to make the surfaces as light as possible. Therefore, the boards and wheels of quartz watches are often made of plastic altogether.

And the coefficient of friction of steel axles on plastic or plastic on plastic is very low. Therefore, functionally in a quartz watch, stones are needed only in one place - the support of the rotor of a stepper motor. This is the only axle under tension. So the marking on a quartz watch “2 stones”, “1 stone” (if it is placed only under the lower trunnion) or even “0 stones” (No jewels) does not mean at all that you have been cheated of something. Happiness is not in stones.