Temporary sutures. Types of machine seams

Sewing is a method of joining and decorating pieces of fabric by inserting and withdrawing a needle and thread into and out of the fabric. Having mastered several basic types of stitches, you can sew clothes and household items, repair and alter them. Even when using sewing machine many jobs must be done manually.

Types of needles for hand sewing

Needles vary in number (1-28, the higher the number, the thinner the needle) and the type of point. For most work, extra sharp needles No. 7 and 8 are considered the most suitable, but they have a small eye. Embroidery ones of the same size have a larger eyelet, making it easier to thread the thread. Larger embroidery needles have a blunter point and are used for projects such as wool embroidery, darning and needle lace. Tapestry needles have a blunt end. Medium needles are good for thin fabrics.

Start and end of work

For all hand stitches, quilting and embroidery, the thread must be secured to wrong side fabric using a small knot at the end of the thread or several stitches, one on top of the other, on the wrong side. With the exception of the herringbone stitch (zigzag stitch), all seams are sewn from right to left. Finish by making a few stitches, one on top of the other, and cutting the thread close to the fabric.

Types of seams

For basting, stitching and gathering. Grasp the fabric with the tip of the needle several times, then pull the entire needle out. Keep stitches and spacing small and even for quilting and gathering, and longer for basting.

For sewing pieces of fabric and embroidering. Bring the needle from the wrong side to the right side. Insert the needle into a point 1.5-3 mm (or half the stitch length) behind the point from which you pulled the thread. Bring the needle back in front of this point at the same distance and repeat.

For filing. Performed from left to right. Insert the needle on the bias over the edge of the hem and bring it out to the left of this point. Bring the needle back on the bias over the edge of the hem, insert at the bottom, and bring it out to the left of that point.

Used for hemming, unnoticeable. Bring the needle through the edge of the hem. Directly opposite this point, hook the needle onto one thread of the fabric's weave. Then insert the needle diagonally through the edge of the hem 6-10 mm to the left. Continue making even stitches.

Used to make hemming invisible. Fold back the hem and secure the thread inside. Make very small stitches at 6mm intervals, picking up one thread first of the main fabric, then of the hem material. Continue alternating stitches until the end. Do not pull the stitches together or they will create puckers.

Used to join two folded edges of fabric (left) or a folded edge to the main surface. Fasten the thread and bring the needle through the folded edge. Make a very small stitch and insert the needle into the main surface, then bring the needle out through a fold of about 6mm. Continue sewing, making sure that most of the thread is not visible.

And finally, according to tradition, a few more “golden rules” of hand sewing.

Sewing secrets

Try to make the stitches very neat and even.

Select stitch and needle size according to thread and fabric.

While working, the main part of the fabric is in front of you.

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Even a novice dressmaker knows that hand stitches are the joining of several parts together using a needle and thread. It’s no secret that the quality of the handiwork depends on appearance sewn product.

Let's look at a few examples of hand stitches that will be useful to a novice seamstress in further work on the manufacture of garments.

What will you need?

• Fabric or several pieces of fabric;
• Needle, thread.

The needle for hand stitching must be straight. The presence of bends on the work tool will provoke incorrect seam execution. Also, don't get carried away large size abalone The larger the eyelet, the more noticeable the hole in the fabric. Chiffon, for example, needs to be sewn with the thinnest needle with the smallest eye.

Hand stitches, technique

Running stitch

It is used for temporarily fastening parts together (for example, for trying on a product). When piercing the fabric, the needle is directed up - down - up... The width of the stitch depends on the fabric and can range from 0.7 mm to 2.5 cm. Some needlewomen alternate narrow and wide stitches in the running seam for speed of stitching and accuracy of fastening.

Basting stitch

Used to temporarily attach one part to another (for example, a pocket to a dress). Outwardly, it is practically no different from a running seam, but the length of the stitch can reach 3 cm. The larger the stitches and the distances between them, the easier it is to remove such a seam after attaching the part.

Copy seam

A copy stitch is used to transfer the lines of future line seams to identical parts (for example, darts on the right and left shelves) or to transfer lines from the front to the wrong side (or vice versa). Narrow stitches are made, left in the form of a loop (not tightened thread). After finishing the stitching line, the parts of the product are moved apart until the threads are stretched, and the flagella formed in the space between the parts are cut. The result is the same contour on the front and back sides of the product or on both parts.

Back stitch

This seam imitates machine stitching. It can be used both when repairing products (for example, cutting and hemming the bottom of trousers), and in the absence of a sewing machine. The technique for performing it is quite simple: we insert the needle into the fabric as with a basting or basting seam, then we go back and insert the needle at the end of the previous stitch, making the new stitch longer.

Overlock (buttonhole) stitch

The seam is designed to process the cut of the fabric to prevent it from fraying. There are several types of overlock seams:

• Oblique - the needle moves around the edge, resulting in an inclination of the thread.

• Cross-shaped - double oblique stitch: first the needle goes in a circle in one direction along the entire length, then in the opposite direction along the entire length.

• Looped - stitches are made from left to right of the same height. Each time you need to insert the needle into an already made stitch and tighten the loop.

Note stitch

A tacking stitch is used to secure a folded edge of a garment (for example, the bottom of a skirt). Outwardly similar to basting, but a stitch 1 cm to 3 cm long connects the main product and its folded edge.

Basting stitch

A basting stitch is used to fasten already sewn parts with the seam turned inward (for example, shoulder straps, collars, flaps). This type of seam is applied before ironing or applying decorative stitching over the finished product.

Hemming stitch

The pre-folded edge of the product is processed using a hemming stitch. Unlike the stitching seam, the hemming seam belongs to the category of permanent ones, i.e. After applying such a seam, no additional machine stitching is required. There are several types of hemming seams:

• Simple - similar to the cross stitch, only the needle goes in a circle around the already folded edge. In this case, the grip of the fabric of the product on the front side should be minimal (the main thread load is taken by the wrong side of the product).

• Blind - the needle is inserted into the fold and joint of the product at a very small distance, connecting the parts, the main length of the stitch remains inside the fold.

• Figured - the needle goes from left to right and from bottom to top. We make an internal transverse cut cut, pull out the thread, next puncture connects the bend and the main product also with a transverse seam.

The hand stitching technique is easy to master. Knowledge in this area is necessary for any person. That is why both girls and boys study hand stitches in technology lessons in schools.

Designed to seamlessly connect product elements, hidden stitching is performed only when sewing by hand. The main feature of this work is that the stitches remain barely noticeable from the outside of the finished item. Using this technique, you can connect the necessary parts, make soft toys and neat hems by hand.

What is a hidden seam and why is it needed?

Making a blind seam by hand requires compliance maximum accuracy, neatness. If you have no experience, they will help detailed instructions. You need to work in one thread using a thin hand needle. It is not so much the execution of the stitch itself that is important, but the result - the impeccable appearance of the product. If the fabric is variegated and loose, it will not be difficult to add an inconspicuous stitch. Another thing is processing the bottom of clothes made of thin, plain fabric, on which puffs easily form.

Hidden stitches, made by hand to discreetly connect two elements, are used when something needs to be neatly repaired or processed. This line is used for:

• trimming the bottom of trousers, skirts or dresses;
• completion of production soft toy;
• minor repairs expensive product, damaged on the front side;
• securing the sleeves of the blouse.

How to hem trousers by hand using a blind seam

Before making a blind seam by hand, you need to carefully measure the desired length of the trousers, tucking the hem on the person. You should set aside a margin of at least 3.5 cm downwards in case you need to lengthen the item. To cut the legs evenly, fold them along their entire length and pin them together. For a high-quality hem, you need to stitch the tape and process the edges with an overlocker. The remaining ends of the threads can be hidden using a hook.

To hem your trousers yourself, do the following:

1. Turn the item inside out.
2. Pin the fold 1 cm from the cut with pins.
3. Insert the needle into the overlock stitch.
4. Grab 1-2 threads of fabric.
5. Bring the needle back to the hem. The stitch pitch should be no more than 1 cm.
6. Sew both pant legs.
7. Turn the item right side out.
8. Iron the seam allowance inside the leg.
9. Iron the arrows from the front side using a cloth.

How to make a hidden seam for toys

Making plush crafts is not complete without hidden stitching. Blind seam done manually like this:

1. Insert the thread into the needle.
2. Tie a knot.
3. Insert the needle into the open hole in the fold from the inside out so that the knot is not visible.
4. Move the working tool in the opposite direction.
5. Grab 1-2 fibers, gently pulling the joint together.
6. Insert the needle again into the fold of the side you started on.
7. Grab a couple of fibers and remove the tool by pulling it forward.
8. Sew the hole all the way.
9. Fasten the thread and cut it short with scissors.

One of the simplest types of needlework is embroidery. Ornament line or beautiful pattern will decorate any thing: dress, blouse, bag, napkin, tablecloth or pillow.

Finishing seams

Seam "forward with a needle"(Fig. 1) is the simplest. It is used to simulate and outline the contours of a drawing. The needle and thread are passed into the fabric from right to left, all the time forward, picking up one or more stitches. This stitch is used to embroider patterns on blouses, napkins, and bags.

Stitch seam(Fig. 2) resembles a machine stitch. On the front side the stitches are adjacent one to one, and on the reverse side the stitch length is equal to two stitches on the front side.

Stem seam(Fig. 3) are performed from left to right. The point of the needle is always directed to the left, and each new stitch begins by stepping back, i.e. right. On the front side the stitches go one after another, and on the reverse side they create a line. The contours of the design (for example, stems, flowers, leaves) are embroidered with a stem stitch and marks are made on the linen.

Loop or slip stitch(Fig. 4), used for binding loops, hemming edges, and embroidering. The seam is made from left to right. The thread is always in front of the needle, making a loop. Depending on the width, height and direction of the stitches, you can complicate the seam by twisting.

Chain or chain stitch(Fig. 5), is a series of loops that come out one from the other, resembling a chain on the front side, crocheted, and on the reverse side - machine stitching. It is performed from top to bottom or from right to left, securing the loop with one or more small stitches. The tambour loop may be different forms, and this makes it possible to create many patterns. Leaves and flower petals are embroidered with this stitch.

Herringbone seam(Fig. 6) resembles buttonhole stitch or an open tambour loop. It is used for finishing products. There are many variations of this seam.

Goat or cross stitch(Fig. 7), perform from left to right. You can use a goat stitch to decorate clothes and linens, hem the hem of a dress or skirt, or connect the edges of two fabrics.

Verkhoshov "verkhoplut" or Vladimir seam(Fig. 8), performed with long stitches. Very thick threads (mostly red) are often used.

Stitches are placed from the center of the pattern to the edges and back. On the front side of the fabric we get the main pattern, and on the reverse side we get an outline with small stitches. This stitch is used to embroider flowers and leaves, different figures, decorating clothes and household items.

Cross stitch

Half-cross or painted seam(Fig. 9) - a double-sided seam, which is performed in two stages - forward and backward. First, stitches are laid along the contour of the pattern from left to right "needle forward", and then from right to left fill the gaps from the previous row.

You can embroider with a cross on linen-bound fabrics, on canvas or along contours marked with dots. Cross stitch or cross stitch(Fig. 10), consists of two crossed stitches. Stitches are placed from left to right first, and overlapped from right to left.

Cross stitch patterns are shown in Fig. 11.

Double, or Bulgarian cross(Fig. 12) are performed with four straight stitches - two diagonal and two mutually perpendicular. First, a simple cross is embroidered, then a vertical stitch is made, and it is covered with horizontal stitches from left to right.

The edges of two canvases can be connected in several ways, as shown in Fig. 13.

Embroidery with beads, bugles, beads, artificial pearls

You can decorate with beads, bugles, beads and artificial pearls Evening Dress, handbag, wallet, etc. For the base we recommend velvet, satin, silk, woolen and cloth fabrics, linen with lavsan.

Threads for embroidery must be strong, “waxed” (coated with wax) so that beads or glass beads do not fray them, and matched to the color of the fabric. For work, use round or faceted beads, single or multi-colored - depending on the pattern. You can also use glass beads and glitter.

They embroider according to a design applied to the fabric or along a canvas, which is then drawn out. Each bead is sewn to the fabric along the contour of the pattern. The beads are sewn end to end or at some distance. You can also lay out a thread with beads strung along the contour and attach it to the fabric with another thread, sticking a needle into the spaces between the beads.

For embroidery with beads, you can use cross stitch patterns: each sewn bead will correspond to a cross on the pattern. Sew the beads using half-cross stitches, slanted in one direction (so that the beads lie flat).

It is better to embroider with glass beads using the top stitch.

Figure 14 shows patterns for embroidering a wallet or handbag. Petals can be embroidered in white and pink beads or bugles, with yellow and green stems in the middle.

Not only beginning needlewomen, but each of us should have basic sewing skills. After all, sooner or later, any person is faced with the need to repair clothing or a household item: sew up a hole, attach a button. In this simple task, sewing skills in the form of various types seams for high-quality work by hand.

Of course, now there is a huge variety of seams that are used not only for sewing parts, but also for decorating the product. This article will discuss the most famous and simple seams, which are usually used to join and trim fabrics, as well as sew on accessories.

Let's look at the main types of seams by hand for beginner needlewomen

This type of seam is typically used to hold temporary parts together and form assemblies. This is a basic sewing skill that is taught to children in craft classes in elementary school.

The stitch length varies from a few millimeters to several centimeters, depending on the type of fabric chosen. It is performed with the usual identical stitches “forward with a needle” on both the front and back sides. If this seam marks fold lines or any other control marks, the length of the stitches should be different (from 1 to 3 cm).

As a rule, parts are fastened with a running stitch before subsequent finishing with machine stitching. Therefore, it is laid at a distance of several millimeters from the future main seam to avoid compromising its integrity.

This type of seam is a variation of the running seam described above. Typically used for various marks during fittings, as well as intermediate marks during the sewing process. It is laid on one layer of material. The length of the stitches is a couple of centimeters, each of them is located at a distance of several millimeters from each other.

This stitch is also used for bead embroidery, the length of the stitches will be minimal.

This type of seam is usually used to symmetrically transfer the desired contour to the other side of the product. To do this, take two parts and stack them on top of each other. front side inside. Then a line is marked along which ordinary running stitches are laid at a distance of several millimeters from each other. However, the thread is not tightened, but remains loose in the form of small loops, the height of which is 1 cm. This is done so that the parts can then be moved apart. After which the threads are stretched and cut in the middle.

It is used when parts are permanently connected and machine stitching is very difficult to do. Ideal for leather and shoe stitching due to its high strength compared to other types of hand stitches. It is also used for mending clothes, which is taught in labor lessons in 5th grade.

This type is based on a “for a needle” seam. After completing the initial stitch, the needle is brought to the front side of the product. Then it goes back to the end of the first stitch, returning to the wrong side. And again it comes out to the front side at a distance equal to two stitch lengths. The entire row is formed in the same way without breaks.

This type of seam is used to prevent fraying of the fabric at the edges of the product. Of course, it is better to process the material using an overlocker, but you can also do it with hand stitches.

The bias seam is made over the edge. In this case, the stitches are formed from right to left, and the row is formed from bottom to top. The distance between stitches is minimal (3 stitches per 1 cm of fabric).

The cuts are processed with a cross-shaped seam, and it is performed in a similar way. However, the needle is guided in both directions from top to bottom. In this case, the thread from the previous stitch should lie under the needle. The row is laid from left to right.

Used for hemming the bottom of the product, while fixing the folded cut on the wrong side. The thread is attached to the fold of the fabric allowance, then the needle grabs a little fabric from the wrong side and is brought out to the side of the folded fabric through the entire material at a distance of several millimeters. All other stitches are formed in a similar way. The stitching is done from right to left

This type of seam is also used for processing a part or for hemming material. Distinctive feature is the absence of visible seam stitching on both sides of the product due to the thread passing under the fold of the fabric and catching a small number of threads of the main material. What the seam looks like is shown in the photo.

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