How to do gradation. Gradation of patterns of small parts and derivative patterns

Obtaining a set of patterns of all heights and sizes of the corresponding full or age group carried out with the help of techniques of technical reproduction (gradation of patterns).

The gradation of patterns is based on the dimensional standardization of figures, according to which typical figures of different sizes and heights differ from each other in any of the dimensional characteristics by the size of the interdimensional or intergrowth interval. This interval is unchanged for the entire selected standard size group, so gradation is performed separately for each weight group and size subgroup. Separate reproduction of patterns by weight groups is also justified by the fact that each model is developed only for one weight and size group.

The gradation of patterns is carried out separately, first by size, then by height.

The contours of the pattern of a new size or growth are obtained by moving the structural points of the original pattern by a certain amount in the direction specified by the multiplication axes, with the subsequent connection of these points to each other. The position of the axes of reproduction is determined by practical experience, some methods recommend their different positions.

Moving a point in the direction of an axis is called an increment. The new position of the constructive point is determined by the vector sum of the two components of the axial displacements (Fig. 11.1–11.4).

The quality of gradation depends on the validity of the magnitude and direction of moving points. Points located on the axes have increments only along the axis. The intersection point of the multiplication axes has no displacements.

Rice. 11.1. Pattern gradation scheme

Rice. 11.2. Pattern gradation scheme

Rice. 11.3. Pattern gradation scheme

Rice. 11.4. Pattern gradation scheme

All structural points related to the supporting sections of the product, during gradation, have increments equal to the interdimensional and intergrowth intervals according to the corresponding dimensional characteristics. Increments at constructive points on non-supporting sections depend not only on the variability of the corresponding dimensional features, but are also due to the requirements of the silhouette shape, etc. The increments at constructive points also depend on the assumptions made and simplifications allowed various methods gradation patterns.

In practice, the following methods of gradation are common: grouping method, radial and proportional-calculated.

The most widespread among them is the proportional calculation method. It is based on determining the increments of a constructive point depending on the values ​​of the initial horizontal and vertical increments and the location of the point relative to the multiplication axes. The value of the initial increments is determined by the interdimensional increment of the dimensional attribute. For example, the value of the initial horizontal increment for shoulder clothing when distributing the interdimensional interval is along the half-girth of the chest between the width of the main sections: back, armhole, shelf.

Proportional calculations are also used to determine the horizontal and vertical increments of points located inside parts (darts, pockets, etc.)

In relation to the typical cut of shoulder and waist products, standard schemes for grading patterns have been developed, where the calculation of increments at structural points is based on interheight and interdimensional increments for all dimensional characteristics.

On fig. 11.1–11.4 shows the gradation schemes for the sizes and heights of the patterns of the main parts of the female shoulder product according to the methodology developed at the Central Experimental and Technical Sewing Laboratory. When multiplying by growth, the length of the part or its section is taken into account.

The difference in length between the growths along the length of the part and its sections is:

in shoulder products:

up to 50cm - 1.0cm,

up to 60cm - 1.5cm,

up to 80cm - 2.0cm,

up to 110cm - 3.0cm,

up to 120cm - 4.0cm,

in the sleeves - 2.0 cm;

in trousers - 4.0 cm;

Of course, few people can boast that they know the meaning of all the words in the language. In addition, many of them can have several meanings. In order to understand this, there are dictionaries. They also help broaden your horizons.

In the article we will try to consider the meaning of the word "gradation". As you know, it is used in different areas, most often found in literature, art, merchandising and logistics.

Origin of the term and its application in fiction

Gradation is an artistic means to enhance the figurativeness of speech, a kind of stylistic device built on the gradual increase in the significance of an action or statement.

The word has Latin roots and can be translated as “gradual increase”. The one-root word is "degree", which means a change by one step, that is, an increase or decrease.

Gradation is often found in poetry: speech becomes more expressive and expressive. It is expressed by repetitions, which allows you to focus the reader's attention on significant actions for the narrative.

An increasing gradation is called a climax, and a decreasing gradation is called an anticlimax. Rise is most common in poetry. A striking example is the works of A. S. Pushkin. A decreasing gradation can be found in love lyrics: it makes it possible to demonstrate the full depth of the experiences of the lyrical hero. With the help of this stylistic device, the work becomes expressive and expressive.

In art

In the field of art, gradation is smooth transition from more dark shades to less saturated ones. With the help of this technique, the paintings acquire depth and richness. Gradation can be done not only on black and white shades, but also on other colors. It is not necessary to use the tones of the same spectrum. An example of such a gradation is the rainbow.

Transitions between shades can be both pronounced and smoother. The use of gradation allows the use of a large number various colors to make the work of art voluminous and bright.

Significance in trade and logistics

Grading is an important criterion in the field of merchandising and logistics. It is meant to represent quality characteristics goods. The definition of product gradation is the non-conformity of the product according to certain parameters.

Goods are the first, second and third gradation.

The first is products that fully comply with all requirements and quality standards.

The second is those products that need to be sold faster. Therefore, they are sold at a discount.

The third degree is goods that are disposed of in accordance with all requirements.

Because of a large number meanings, it is not difficult to find synonyms for the word "gradation". This is a figure of speech or sequence, alternation, gradation.

The correct use of gradation as a stylistic device allows you to make the work more interesting and expressive. And the correct use of the word in speech will allow demonstrating literacy and erudition, the richness of vocabulary.

Grading is not easy artistic technique, this is a way of influencing people by drawing attention to important things.

Men's denim trousers

graduate work

5.4 Gradation of patterns by size and height

In the recommendations of modeling organizations and individual fashion designers, we never see the attachment of a model to one size and height. Most often, the model belongs to a group of sizes and heights, taking into account age influence. The design and the corresponding set of patterns are developed for one size and height. You can get a set of patterns for products of all sizes and heights recommended by the fashion designer for a given model or all sizes and heights of the basic design within the body weight, or even age group, using the gradation of patterns.

Gradation - the process of designing a set of patterns of clothing details various sizes and growths based on patterns of product details of medium size and height. The essence of the gradation process is to increase or decrease the linear dimensions of the original patterns.

There are several ways of grading patterns:

Ray,

grouping method,

Proportional-calculated,

With the help of a computer.

Beam - the method lies in the fact that from a certain point of the structure (and sometimes a point outside the structure) called the focus, straight lines are drawn through the main design points - rays. An increment is set off from the contour of the original part along these rays, and the contours of parts of the required size are drawn using new points. Most often, the ray method is used for grading patterns of headgear details, since this method is most accurate for details that are close to regular geometric shapes.

Groupings - make two sets of patterns of parts (most often for medium and extreme sizes) and combine the patterns of the same name along one or two lines. After that, the structural points of the same name are connected with straight lines, and the resulting segments are divided by the number of intermediate sizes. Thus, constructive points of intermediate sizes are obtained, as well as an increment from size to size. By connecting the corresponding points, the contours of the patterns of intermediate sizes are obtained. Most often, this method is used for grading patterns of clothing details of complex models.

The most widespread is the proportional-calculated method of gradation.

Proportional-calculated - for each part, depending on its design, the main vertical and horizontal are chosen. All structural points of the part are moved parallel to the main ones by certain increments. The magnitude of the increment is directly related to the variability of dimensional features. The increments are obtained by compiling calculation tables with subsequent verification of the calculation data by constructing design drawings and combining them. Dimensional features of typical figures change with an increase or decrease in size and growth by a constant (for each feature) value. The growth variability of those dimensional features that determine the width of the product and the main structural sections is small compared to the allowances for free fitting. Therefore, for some types of products, it becomes possible to refuse laborious process gradation of patterns according to height, which can significantly reduce the pattern economy of enterprises. In this case, the gradation of patterns by height is reduced to the movement of the waist line and the bottom of the product and sleeve.

At present, the use of computers with graph plotters facilitates and simplifies the work of grading patterns.

The magnitude of the movement of structural points from size to size and from growth to growth is presented in table 10.

Table 10

Moving design points from size to size and from height to height in the main details of women's clothing

Product details and design points	Designation on the drawing	Difference between adjacent sizes, cm	Difference between adjacent heights, cm
		vertical	horizontally	vertically	horizontally
Front half of pants
intersection point side cut with yoke stitching line
Back half of pants
point of intersection of the line of the bottom and side cut
point of intersection of the bottom line and the step cut
point of intersection of the knee line and the side cut
point of intersection of the line of the infragluteal cavity and the lateral cut
point of intersection of the line of the infragluteal cavity and the step cut
point of intersection of the line of the infragluteal cavity and the step cut
point of intersection of the side cut with the top line

The pattern gradation scheme is shown in the figure.

The gradation of patterns by size and height is shown on the graphic sheet.

Model selection and design development women's blouse

To perform work on the construction of patterns, it is first necessary to develop a device device (that is, the design of nodes and connections) ...

Clothing design

On the main and derivative patterns, according to the technical requirements, the following designations are applied to the cutting of product parts: the line of the shared direction of the fabric - the direction of the warp thread; lines of permissible deviation from the shared ...

Clothing design

Gradation or technical reproduction of patterns is obtaining a set of patterns of all sizes and heights of the corresponding weight or age group according to the patterns of parts of a product of medium size ...

Corundum ceramics with bimodal particle size distribution

To achieve the required physical, mechanical and operational characteristics, ceramic materials must have a high density and a uniform fine-grained structure...

Basics of design and technological preparation of production

Patterns are basic, derivative and auxiliary. Basic patterns - patterns of parts from the base material (front and back halves of trousers, back, top and lower parts sleeves, lower collar, fronts...

Everyday summer set in the style of "Country" for girls adolescence. Size 176-84-92

Patterns are graded according to size groups in accordance with the current classification of typical figures. The gradation of the patterns is carried out according to the typical schemes presented in the methods of designing clothes ...

Designing a women's blouse made in the style of a safari

It is necessary to develop the design of units and connections of parts to ensure the need for product strength ...

Development of a collection of club women's clothing

Layout from raincoat gray fabric Layout from lining (mesh) Layout on raincoat white fabric Conclusion Suggested jumpsuit sports style meets the requirements of fashion in terms of shape, color scheme...

Model and design development women's dress

The purpose of gradation is to obtain a design of patterns for all dimensions designed for a given model. With the help of gradation according to patterns - originals, patterns - standards are obtained ...

The pattern specification is a list of the names of all patterns in the set, their number and the number of cut details, presented in tabular form. The specification of the patterns of the developed model is presented in table 10...

Development of a model design and design documentation for women's clothing

The development of a new model of clothing for industrial production is carried out on a basic size and height. Patterns of model details for other sizes and heights are obtained by a technical method of gradation ...

Development of design documentation for the manufacture of a model of a women's jacket

Development of design documentation for the manufacture of a model of a women's jacket in small batches for a typical figure 170-88-96

In the course project, primary and model designs, patterns for women's jacket R. 170-88-96 of the third fullness group. Patterns of the main details for sizes and heights 164-88-96, 176-96-104 are obtained by their gradation ...

To carry out the analysis of the details of the clothes for additional patterns. In front of the pobudovoy patterns on the armchairs of the details, all the blunt ends of the windings, the lines of the white edges, the lines of the sleeves are rounded off with the smaller openings at their peaks...

The creation of a model of a woman's clothing for individual design and the development of design documentation

Depending on the number of sets, the laying patterns are divided into single sets and combinations. One-complete layouts are made from one set of patterns, when laid out on materials in a spread...

2.1. Set groups of sizes and heights for which patterns will be graded. For example, the basic size-height 164-88-94 is proposed to be graded into two large and two smaller sizes, i.e. from 80 to 96, for one (two) larger and smaller heights, i.e. from 158 to 170.

2.2. Perform pattern gradation in next sequence:

establish and designate points of gradation;

from each gradation point of the original size, set aside in the direction of the coordinates of the gradation value ΔX z Г j , ΔY j Г j For large sizes and gradation values ​​with the opposite sign – ( ΔX z Г j), - (ΔY z Г j) - for smaller sizes) in accordance with the selected gradation scheme (Fig. 29.1-29.8).;

For greater accuracy of gradation, increments at design points should be set aside vertically and horizontally immediately for a group of sizes;

The final points of the graduated dimensions are found at the intersection of perpendiculars restored from points corresponding to k ΔX z Г j, k·ΔY j Г j ;

connect the corresponding points of the k-th size and get the contour of the details of the clothes k- that size;

Gradation is carried out separately according to size and height. First, you should perform a gradation in size; then the base (average) size is graded according to height. Students can perform gradation according to the growth of only the base size. It is allowed to perform gradation of patterns by size and height on the combined drawing.

Move each design point of the template horizontally and

3. Verify the quality of the execution of patterns of structures obtained by grading. It should be taken into account that:

1. transitions from size to size should be uniform;

2. the lengths of the cuts of parts of extreme dimensions (smaller and larger) connected in the product are compared with each other, comparing with similar lengths in base size;

3. measurements of the lengths of slices are performed along the lines of connection of these slices, i.e. along the seam lines;

4. slices having different length in the base size must remain equal in the extreme sizes;

5. The shear fit provided for in the IMC must be varied so that the fit rate remains constant;

6. According to the collar of the set-in sleeve, the average landing rate and the rate in the areas between the notches are controlled. in order to maintain the landing standards in sections, it is allowed to change the direction of the gradation diagonals at the points of the contour notches.

Control questions:

1. What is the purpose of grading patterns?

2. What methods of gradation do you know? in what cases do they apply?

3. Name the advantages and disadvantages of the ray method of gradation.

4. Name the advantages and disadvantages of the ray grouping method.

5. Name the advantages and disadvantages of the proportional calculation method of gradation.

6. Name the initial gradation lines for shoulder and waist clothing. What are they needed for?

7. What points are called initial points of gradation? constructive gradation points?

8. What is the interdimensional difference between adjacent clothing numbers?

9. For which cuts of parts is the necessary conjugation of lengths not ensured when they are graded in size? What, in your opinion, are the reasons for this and what suggestions could you give on changing the gradation scheme?

10. According to what design parameters of the product, during gradation, there is no correspondence between the variability of the dimensional features of the figures? How might this affect the quality? finished product?

11. What is your assessment of the studied gradation methodology, and what suggestions can you give for its improvement?

12. What dimensional features of the figure have the greatest and least interdimensional and intergrowth variability?

Report requirements:

In the report on laboratory work No. 28, the following should be presented:

Goal of the work;

Sketches of gradation schemes for the main patterns of products with set-in sleeves.

Drawings of the gradation of the patterns of the female (male) shoulder product in terms of size and height in M ​​1: 1.

Figure 28.1 - Scheme of gradation of the main details of women's clothing

Figure 28.2 - Scheme of gradation of the main details of women's clothing

Figure 28.3 - Scheme of gradation of the main details of women's clothing

Figure 28.4 - Scheme of gradation of the main details of women's clothing

Figure 28.5 - Scheme of gradation of patterns for the details of the sleeves of women's clothing

Figure 28.6 - Scheme of gradation of the main details of women's clothing

Figure 28.7 - Scheme of gradation of the main details men's jacket

Figure 28.8 - Scheme of gradation of the main details men's coat

Lab #29

Gradation of patterns (templates) of details of shoulder clothing
with raglan sleeves and one-piece

Goal of the work: acquaintance with the features of the gradation of patterns of clothing details of non-standard designs; mastering the methodology for grading patterns of product details with one-piece sleeves and raglan sleeves.

Benefits and tools: training posters, patterns of the main details of products with one-piece sleeves and raglan sleeves, graph paper, drawing accessories .

Literature:

8. A.P. Andreeva, U.B. Deryabicheva and others. Illustrated guide for making patterns outerwear. Textbook / - St. Petersburg, SPGUDT, 1998, p. 83-87.

9. S.V. Kurenova, N.Yu. Saveliev. Clothing Design, Tutorial / Series “Textbooks, study guides". - Rostov n / a: Phoenix, 2003, p. 352-355, 412-421.

1. The study of the features of the gradation of patterns of clothing details of non-standard designs.

2. Performing gradation of patterns of product details with one-piece sleeves and raglan sleeves in terms of size and height.

3. Verification of the quality of execution of structures obtained by grading.

Methodical instructions:

The primary design of the patterns of the model, called the original, is developed only for one the average size and growth in the weight and age group for which the model is recommended. Patterns of parts of other sizes and heights are obtained by proportionally reducing or increasing the linear dimensions of patterns of medium size and height. Changing the size and shape of the patterns is carried out according to certain technical rules, called technical reproduction(or serial production) patterns.
Technical reproduction of patterns is carried out according to size and height.
The transition from size to size is carried out by means of interdimensional increments, which give to the cuts of the patterns of the details of the original of medium size and height.
Technical reproduction of patterns by height is carried out with the help of intergrowth increments, which are given to the cuts of patterns of parts of each size.
With correctly found increments, the contours of the patterns of all sizes and heights should not be distorted in comparison with the original.

Patterns of variability of anthropometric dimensional features as the basis for technical reproduction of patterns

The change in the size of clothing details is associated with a change in the size of figures of a typical physique. Therefore, the rules for determining the size of clothing details of various sizes and heights should be based on the patterns of change in the subordinate dimensional signs of the body when the leading dimensional signs of chest girth and height change, according to which the clothes are numbered.
From the regularities considered at the beginning it follows that more close connection exists between dimensional signs of one direction: transverse - with chest girth, longitudinal - with growth.
However, due to the linear dependence of the subordinate dimensional features on both leading ones, with a change in chest girth (with the same height), not only the transverse, but also some change in the longitudinal dimensional features occur. And vice versa, with a change in height (with the same girth of the chest), not only the longitudinal dimensional characteristics change, but also to some extent the transverse ones.
Based on these patterns, when reproducing patterns of clothing parts in size (with the same growth), the change in the linear dimensions of the parts is carried out not only in the transverse direction, but also in the longitudinal direction. As a result, the design points of the parts move in the drawing along the diagonal of the rectangle, the sides of which are the transverse and longitudinal increments to given size details.
When reproducing patterns of clothing parts by height (with the same chest girth), the linear dimensions of the parts are changed only in the longitudinal direction, neglecting transverse size increments due to their relatively small size.
The theory of reproduction of patterns has been developed very little, therefore, in practice, they usually use various practical ways technical reproduction of patterns.

Methods of technical reproduction of patterns

Three methods of technical reproduction of patterns are known: grouping, beam and proportional-calculated. A detailed analysis of them is given in.
Grouping method is reduced to obtaining patterns of clothing parts of various sizes as a result of combining two sets of patterns (middle and adjacent or middle and extreme).
After matching the patterns, the design points of the same name are connected by straight lines. The straight lines are divided into the number of parts corresponding to the number of intermediate sizes (Fig. V-45, a) and the increments from size to size are determined. By connecting the points on the straight lines, the contours of the patterns of intermediate sizes are obtained.
The main disadvantage of the grouping method is that it is necessary to build drawings not in one, but in two dimensions. The grouping method is used to determine the increments in the reproduction of patterns in other ways.
Beam method rarely used at present.
The essence of the ray method is that from a certain point (focus) straight lines (rays) are drawn through all the design points of the part. From the contour of the part along these rays, increments are plotted (Fig. V-45, b).
Based on the newly found points, the contours of parts of larger and smaller sizes are drawn.
This method is the simplest, but the least accurate. Its accuracy is affected, first of all, by the choice of the position of the starting point (focus). At different provisions focus, the direction of the rays turns out to be different, the constructive points of the patterns are shifted, and their contours are distorted.
The ray method can be used in the reproduction of patterns of individual parts of headgear and corsetry, the size increments of which occur in the radial direction (Fig. V-46).
Proportional calculation method received the widest distribution in the design of clothing both in our country and abroad.
The essence of the proportional calculation method is that the displacement of the structural points of the patterns is carried out along the horizontals and verticals, taking into account the corresponding increments of the patterns along the horizontal and vertical axes (Fig. V-45, c).

The increments along the verticals and horizontals for each constructive point of the patterns are found based on a certain position of the point relative to the original lines (axes). For the main details of shoulder products (jacket, jacket, coat, dress, etc.), the following location of the base lines is recommended (Fig. V-47).
On the back the vertical line must coincide with the middle of the back or a line tangent to the top middle line backs. The horizontal line is the chest line (armhole depth).
On the shelf the vertical line should be tangent to the armhole line. The horizontal line is the chest line (armhole depth).
On the sleeve a vertical line connects the ends of the front roll. Horizontal line - the line of the depth of the eyelet, corresponding to the line of the depth of the armhole of the back and the shelf of the product.
in the collar only the length changes, so one initial line is selected - a vertical line passing through the notch corresponding to the position shoulder seam.

Reproduction of patterns by size


The initial horizontal increment for multiplying patterns in size is an increment to the width of the finished product along the chest line. It is determined on the basis of the interdimensional difference between adjacent clothing numbers (2 cm).
The distribution of the interdimensional difference between the width of the main sections of clothing (back, armhole and front) is made in proportion to the width of these sections for typical products and the variability of the dimensional features W, and W "determining the width of the back and front (Table V-8).
Horizontal increments at the constructive points of the lines of the sprout, neck, shoulder sections, waist and hips are determined based on the variability of the corresponding dimensional features of the body. The total increments along the waist and hips are distributed between the back, armhole and shelf in the same ratio as along the chest line.
The values ​​of vertical increments are found based on the data on the variability of the proportions of the figure and the distance of the constructive points from the original horizontal. So, the points of the middle of the sprout of the back and the top of the neck of the shelf have vertical increments in men's clothing, respectively: 0.45 - 0.5 cm and 0.6 - 0.65 cm, and in women's clothing 0.6 - 0.7 cm and 0 .9 - 1.0 cm*. At the same time, the vertical increment to the point of the top of the side slices, which lies close to the original horizontal, is 0 - 0.3 cm.

Total part length in different sizes(with constant growth) remains constant. To maintain a constant length at the upper and lower points of the parts: on the back - at the points of the middle of the sprout and bottom, on the shelf - at the points of the ledge of the lapel (the top of the half-skid line) and the bottom along the side, in the sleeve - at the points of the top of the okonka and bottom, lay the same in magnitude and direction vertical increments.
The movement of points on lines taken as initial ones is carried out only in one direction: on horizontal lines - horizontally, on vertical lines - vertically. All other constructive points lying on the contour lines of the patterns move both vertically and horizontally.
Vertical increments for all constructive points, regardless of their location relative to the original horizontal, are directed upwards for large sizes, downwards for smaller ones. The direction of horizontal increments (left or right) depends on the size and location of the part contour line relative to the original vertical.

On fig. V-48-51 (a) shows the schemes of reproduction according to the sizes of the main patterns of the jacket details, made according to the recommendations of the LDM [33].
Reproduction of patterns of the back (Fig. V-48, a) and shelves (Fig. V-49, a) is usually carried out on separate drawings, patterns of the upper and lower halves of the sleeve - more often on one drawing (Fig. V-50, a). In this case, the lines of the front roll and the bottom of the upper and lower halves must match. When replicating the patterns of the sleeve details, the lines of the front cuts are left unchanged, and the sleeve width is changed by moving the elbow cuts.
The value of the increment to the width of the sleeve by all methods is taken approximately equal to the increment to the width of the armhole. The experience of the Bolshevichka company shows that in order to maintain a constant percentage of fabric fit along the rim in all sizes, when sewing a sleeve into an armhole, it is necessary to take this increment by 0.1 cm more than for the armhole.

The height of the armhole changes in accordance with the change in the depth of the armhole of the product.
Reproduction of patterns of the lower collar and the upper collar is carried out in the same way. The collar width is kept constant for all sizes. The increment to the length of the collar is set in accordance with the change in the length of the sprout of the back and neck of the shelf (this corresponds to an interdimensional increment to the half-girth of the neck, equal to 0.5 cm).
When reproducing the pattern of the selection, only the length of the upper part changes in accordance with the change in the length of the neck of the shelf.
-------------------
* At the same time, the balance men's products from size to size it changes by an average of 0.15 cm, and for women - by 0.3 cm.

Reproduction of patterns by growth

The initial increment along the vertical for reproduction of patterns by height is the increment to the length of the finished product, determined on the basis of the difference between heights between adjacent heights of the product.
To simplify reproduction according to the height of the patterns of the back and shelves, changes in the longitudinal dimensions of the patterns are taken into account only in the areas of the parts located below the original horizontal - the line of the chest, leaving upper part details unchanged in all heights.
The Leningrad House of Models found that this is one of the reasons for the imbalance of the product, and developed their own rules for the reproduction of patterns by height, taking into account the change not only in the lower, but also in the upper part of these parts. The basis for this was the published data of anthropological measurements of figures. Armhole height measurements, which determine the position of the upper structural lines relative to the base of the armhole, vary not only in size, but to the same extent in growth. At the same time, with an increase in growth in the same size, the height of the base of the armhole at the back increases to a greater extent than in front, and with an increase in size in the same height, the height of the base of the armhole at the front increases to a greater extent. In accordance with the change in the depth of the armhole of the back and the front, increments are also given to the height of the collar of the sleeve.
Reproduction of the collar by growth is not performed.
On fig. V-48 - 51 (b) shows reproduction drawings based on the growth of the main parts of the jacket, made on the recommendation of the LDM.
* * *
When reproducing patterns of product details of complicated models, the total increments to the sizes of backs, shelves, sleeves and collars remain the same as in standard products, but they are distributed between separate parts parts by proportional calculation.
The technical reproduction of patterns designed according to model samples is carried out using methods used in the industry. At the same time, in some parts of parts of an improved design (non-cut-off heads, one-piece sleeves and collar, the main parts of trousers without side seams), the design lines are found taking into account the features of the new design, while maintaining the applied increments between sizes (Fig. V-52, 53).

Pattern reproduction technique


Graphical construction of increments at each point during the reproduction of patterns is a laborious work that requires a lot of time and intense attention. Behind last years in our country and abroad, a number of methods have appeared that simplify the technique of pattern reproduction.
The essence of these methods is as follows. Pre-constructed increments are transferred to transparent tracing paper or plexiglass so that they all fit compactly on a straight line or disk radii (Fig. V-54). Each disc radius is used to reproduce one design point of the part. The radius serves as an axis coinciding with the direction of the vertical at the corresponding design point on the pattern drawing. At an appropriate angle to the axis, straight lines are drawn, on which constructive points of all sizes lie. Holes are made at the locations of the points.
In literature the simplest grademaster and variator devices are also described, which make it possible to mechanize the process of pattern reproduction. A medium-sized template is fixed in the levers of the device and manually moved in the desired horizontal and vertical directions and outlines the contours of a new template. The contours of the patterns are then cut out by hand.
The multigrader device combines the reproduction and cutting of patterns, so there is no need to outline the contours of the patterns.

LITERATURE

31. Vinogradov S.K., Repeikov V.N., Lebedev A.M. Designing men's outerwear, Rostekhizdat, 1961.
32. Unified method of designing clothes. Men's clothing, Gosmestpromizdat, 1962.
33. Experience in designing men's clothing. "Clothing Industry", Series VIII, Information 4(6). TsINTILegprom, 1963.
35. Unified method of designing clothes. Women's clothing, Gosmestpromizdat, 1962.
37. Tsarev N.I. Design of women's outerwear. Rostekhizdat, 1963.
39. Modern ways dimensional increases and decreases patterns. "Sewing and knitting industry", Scientific and technical collection No. 7, TsINTILegprom, 1962.
48. Pochus M.I. Experience in the use of nomograms for the manufacture of patterns garments adjacent sizes (technical reproduction of patterns), BTI, 1959.
51. Mirutenko O.S., Trukhan G.L. Analysis of methods for serial production of patterns. Journal. "Sewing Industry", No. 4, 1963.