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Sew in a hidden zipper by hand. How to properly sew a hidden zipper into a dress on the back

AUTHOR ELENA KRASOVSKAYA

This type of fastener is used in dresses, skirts, and blouses. This fastener looks very good on items made from delicate fabrics.

To sew the fastener, you will need a special single-sided sewing machine foot (it is usually included with the sewing machine).

1. Open the hidden zipper and press the spiral so that you can see the “seam line” between the braid and the spiral.
Close the open fastener with a zipper outside on the front side of the cut to which the fastener is stitched, lengthwise.
To sew the fastener exactly along the marked seam line, you need to determine the interval between the edge of the zipper tape and the cut of the fabric: the width of the seam allowance minus 1 cm. braid width = distance to the fabric cut.

Upper end of the braid zippers pin (baste) to the fabric at the required distance, which we determined above.
The lower end of the zipper should protrude beyond the lower end of the cut (approx. 2cm).
2. Place the sewing machine foot over the zipper so that the spiral is located under the notch of the foot to the right of the needle.

Sew the zipper from the top end to the cut mark.

Close the zipper.

3. Place the second zipper braid with the outer side on the right side of the fabric along the other edge of the cut and pin (baste) the upper end of the braid.
Open the zipper again.

Place the sewing machine foot over the zipper so that the spiral is located under the notch of the foot to the left of the needle.
Sew the braid from the top end to the cut mark.
Close the zipper.
On the wrong side, iron gently.

4. Next, stitch the cut below the cut mark for the zipper, turning the lower free end of the zipper over the seam allowance and starting the seam as close as possible to the last stitches of the zipper stitching seams.
Seam allowances need to be ironed.
Don't forget to overcast the seam allowances.

From the accuracy of execution hidden clasp depends appearance products. The more carefully you perform this operation, the better and more beautiful your product will be.

Therefore, take each step slowly, but in any case, to correct inaccuracies there is a convenient device called a seam ripper. If something doesn’t work out, open the seam and do it again until a brilliant result.

Next time, another simple way to sew in a fastener is a zipper (not a hidden one).

With wishes of good luck, Elena Krasovskaya: http://shjem-krasivo.ru/

We sew in a regular zipper - 2 options

A simple zipper with plastic teeth is usually sewn into the fasteners of skirts, jackets, and trousers. We will consider two options for positioning the zipper in the fastener - in the center of the cut and offset to one edge.

How to sew a regular zipper in the center

Rice. 1. Stitch the parts of the product along the seam to the cut mark

Rice. 2. Stitch the open area for the zipper

Sew the parts of the product along the seam to the zipper cut mark. Sew the open area for the zipper using an auxiliary stitch with a stitch length of 4 mm.

Rice. 3. Processing seam allowances with bias tape

Press seam allowances and finish with bias tape or overcast stitch.

Rice. 4. Pin the zipper

Rice. 5. Baste the zipper with pins

On the wrong side, pin the zipper in the center of the seam. Baste the zipper using basting stitches.

Rice. 6. Attach a zipper

Set to sewing machine Using a special foot for attaching a zipper, sew the zipper on the front side of the product, stitching at a distance of 0.5 cm from the middle of the seam. Remove the basting.

Rice. 7. Open the auxiliary seam

Rice. 8. Lightning in finished form

Using a buttonhole ripper, open the auxiliary stitch and remove the threads. Iron the product from the front side through a damp cloth.

How to sew a zipper offset to the edge

Rice. 1. Stitch the seam up to the zipper cut

Rice. 2. Iron seam allowances

Sew the parts of the product along the seam to the zipper cut mark. Iron seam allowances and finish.

Rice. 3. Sew the zipper along the left side

Under the right side of the cut, baste one side of the zipper close to the teeth. Install a special zipper foot and stitch the zipper along the edge. To make it easier to sew the zipper along its entire length, unzip it.

Rice. 4. Thread the thread through the loop of the zipper dog

Rice. 5. Pull the thread and close the zipper

When there is 2 cm left to stitch to the bottom of the zipper, close the zipper without interrupting the stitching and finish the stitching. To close the zipper, use our advice: insert a thread folded several times into the loop of the zipper dog, lift the foot, pull the thread and close the zipper.

Rice. 6. Finish the line

Rice. 7. Pin the right side of the zipper

Rice. 8. Sew the right side of the zipper

Place the other side of the product over the zipper, pin it in place and baste. Starting from the bottom, sew a short horizontal stitch, then turn the product 90 degrees and continue stitching, stitch left side lightning. Sew the stitch at a distance of 0.6-0.7 cm from the center.

Rice. 9. Bottom part stitched zipper

Rice. 10. Finished zipper

The finished lightning is shown in Fig. 10.

HOW TO CAREFULLY AND BEAUTIFULLY SEW A ZIPPER

There are many ways to sew in a zipper, I would like to suggest trying one of them - not difficult to perform, but with an unusual order of operations.

Use soap to mark the stitching line for the seam where the zipper will be and pin together the details of the product.

Sew along the marked line using the largest stitch.

This seam will need to be removed at the very end of the work.

Press seam allowances.

Pin one part of the zipper front side to the allowance, moving the teeth one millimeter away from the seam.

Using a single-sided presser foot, sew a stitch, moving 2 millimeters away from the zipper teeth..

Fasten the zipper and bend it to the other side. Pin to a width of 5-7 millimeters.

Place a stitch, stepping back from the fold by 1-2 millimeters.

Turn the zipper back to the seam allowance and pin the other side of it with pins.


Place a stitch along the second side of the zipper, retreating from the teeth by 2 millimeters.

Turn the piece over to the right side and pin together, marking the finishing stitch line.

Place a finishing stitch, while catching the zipper.

Iron the knot from the front side.

Delete the very first line.

Voila! Everything turned out beautifully and neatly!

Another option for sewing in a zipper:

Place one end of the zipper face to face on the seam allowance of the product, which has been previously overcast (here in the photo it is not overcast, since the product was sewn on a lining) and stitch, stepping back from the edge of the zipper by 2 millimeters.

Turn back the seam allowances on the product and stitch along the product 1-2 millimeters from the fold.

Sew the second side of the zipper in the same way. In the photo there is a valance detail or placket under the zipper.

And one more option. This involves attaching a zipper from the front side to the product.

You also need to stitch the seam and iron the seam allowances. If necessary, overcast or edge the allowances.
Then turn the piece over to the front side.

Place the zipper and pin it over the seam connecting the parts.

Sew the zipper with a zigzag or other finishing stitch.

Carry out a series of fittings to accurately adjust the fit to your figure, carefully sew all the details of the skirt, but you can’t sew a zipper into a skirt or dress beautifully. It's obvious hidden zipper, then one part of it has moved relative to the other, etc.
Installing or replacing a zipper is always quite difficult, even if you have some experience. Often the quality of work depends on the material (fabric) from which the skirt, dress or trousers are made. The quality of the zipper tape and the presence of special claws and operations on your machine also affect it.

In this article we will share with you the secrets of how to sew a zipper correctly various types, stitching is quick and easy.
First, we will show in the photo and comment on how to sew a regular metal or twisted (spiral) zipper onto a skirt or trousers without basting and unnecessary operations. Then you will learn the steps to install a hidden zipper using a special zipper foot. And finally, we’ll give you some tips on how to properly replace a broken zipper (tractor) in a jacket.

Twisted and metal short zippers are used in Lately infrequently, they are successfully replaced by hidden zippers. But for some clothes, especially children's, it is more practical to install just such zippers. They are more reliable and somewhat easier to sew in.

First you need to stitch the area (two parts) where the zipper will be installed using a wide stitch and without fastenings. This line will be deleted in the future. Then you need to iron this seam on both sides, preferably with steam.


Now you need to change the regular foot to a foot for attaching a zipper and sew the zipper tape on both sides, as shown in this photo.
This method will provide you with an even and neat sewing of the zipper, without basting the lock and other operations.


All that remains is to rip open the temporary stitch, iron this area well and make front side skirts or trousers with finishing stitching.


It is better to do the finishing stitch with the zipper closed and with a foot designed for sewing on a zipper.
Of course, you can sew a zipper in another way, but for beginners this technique is simple and straightforward.


How to sew a large zipper into a jacket (tractor)


Replacing a zipper on a jacket is completely different from installing a zipper on a skirt, dress or pants. Since the jacket, as a rule, has a lining, all the “nuances” and errors are hidden inside the jacket. This greatly simplifies the process of sewing in a zipper. However, the technology for replacing a zipper in a jacket is quite complicated, requiring endless marking and checking the coincidence of the line of the neckline, waist, pockets, etc. It is enough to just slightly tighten one side of the zipper and in the finished form the entire zipper will be “skewed”, and such a defect cannot be repaired by any iron to correct.

Always try to stitch along the back side of the jacket (lining), and be sure to mark the front side of the jacket and the zipper tape with marks or notches. Then, when sewing in the zipper, you will be able to control the displacement of the lock relative to the marks on the jacket and, if necessary, adjust it.

To go through this section, you need to raise the foot, move the slider and then continue sewing further. In some cases, you can even pull it out from under the paw.


If you attached the zipper with a special foot, then it is better to do the finishing stitch with a regular foot, and this stitch should be done on the wrong side. An experienced seamstress does this operation without basting, but we advise you to baste anyway.
The seamstress pulls the lining to the left, and adjusts the facing fabric (ironed in advance) exactly along the edge of the teeth. And as a result, without basting with threads, it is possible to sew the zipper in one line evenly and neatly. The advantage of this method is that there is no fabric shrinkage on the front side, and all excess can be dispersed (stretched) over the lining.


This is how beautiful the stitching will be along the front side of the jacket if you learn how to properly sew a zipper with your own hands.

A properly sewn hidden zipper will not be visible in the seam of the dress. Usually a hidden zipper is sewn into middle seam the back of a dress or skirt.
However, if you decide to sew an invisible zipper into the side seam of a dress or skirt, be aware that the barrel shape of the dress or skirt may become distorted if you sew the invisible zipper incorrectly, or if the material of the dress or skirt is very thin.
In this case, it is better to sew a hidden zipper into the middle seam of the back of the dress or skirt.

Unlike a regular zipper, a hidden zipper is sewn into an open seam.

Before starting work, treat the seams of the product with an overlocker or bias silk tape.

Use a tailor's chalk to mark the stitching line for the zipper on the wrong side of the garment.

Allowances should be 1.5 cm wide.

Turn the middle seam allowance of the dress to the wrong side and press lightly, but do not iron.

Open the hidden zipper, put it on facial side towards the allowances of the dress. The teeth of the hidden zipper should coincide with the line of the middle back of the product.


Sew in an invisible zipper, aligning the top of the zipper tape with the top of the back neckline.


Sweep in the left and right side for a hidden zipper, start at the top.

Place a special foot on your sewing machine for attaching a hidden zipper (pictured). Bend the teeth of the hidden zipper with your fingernail index finger so that the place where the seam is laid is visible (between the braid and the teeth of the zipper). Sew along the left half of the hidden zipper.

The stitch should end when the foot rests on the “dog” of the hidden zipper.

Sew along the right half of the folded zipper in the same way. Both lines need to start from the top.

Secure the end of the stitches with a double knot.

Close the hidden zipper.


All that remains is to sew up the open seam of the back of the dress.

Baste the middle seam of the dress, aligning the cuts, below the zipper, bending the end of the hidden zipper as shown in the photo.

Change the presser foot as shown in the photo.

Sew up the seam.

Ideally, the stitch should re-stitch the zipper stitching stitch and be located 1 mm to the left of it.

While performing this operation, hold the end of the hidden zipper (see photo).

If you love handicrafts, learning the rules for sewing in various fasteners is an absolute necessity for you. Usually on the back or side of sheath dresses, skirts with yokes made of thin fabric make a hidden zipper. It is important that it does not spoil the design of the outfit. To prevent the place where the fittings are sewn in from looking artisanal, you need to master some tailoring tricks.

We select accessories, tools and consumables

Your task is to sew on a hidden zipper, that is, to hide the fastener from prying eyes. An ignorant person should not distinguish fittings from ordinary ones connecting seam. Carefully select the zipper to match the dress or skirt so that the color of the main product and the clasp match up to half tones. The lock slider will be visible from the “face” of the finished outfit, so pay attention to its size and design. In addition to accessories, you will need:

  • main threads (to match the clothes) and auxiliary threads (contrasting);
  • sharpened scissors;
  • tailor's meter;
  • chalk or soap;
  • iron with steam function;
  • sewing machine with zipper foot;
  • overlocker (if the machine does not sew with zigzag).

Adjust the length of the seam for the fastener in advance to buy fittings of the required size. According to the recommendations of professional tailors, a hidden zipper should be 1.5 centimeters longer than the line where it is sewn.

Choose a thin, durable iron zipper. The movement of the slider should not be too tight or light. Place the fittings vertically and pull the canvas base in both directions - if the lock comes apart easily, the slider is unreliable

Preparing the seam for sewing in a hidden zipper

Before sewing in a hidden zipper, the seam must be properly prepared. Often, outfits with this kind of fasteners are made from delicate fabrics, and the styles are chosen to be tight-fitting. If this is the type of fabric you are using, do not side zipper: even the most elegant fittings can deform the silhouette.

Mark with a small or pointed soap the place where the fastener will be sewn - the mid-vertical line on the back of the dress or the back of the skirt. If the cut piece is made of two parts (for example, left and right shelves), the fittings will be sewn in at the joints of the fabric. Allow standard seam allowances of 1.5 centimeters high.

Very carefully make an even cut with sharp tailor's scissors and process the linen edges with an overlock or machine zigzag stitch. Fold the seam allowances to the wrong side of the dress or skirt, then steam them thoroughly with an iron. It is important that when sewing in the fittings, these strips of fabric do not turn out.

You can process the sections of fabric on which the zipper will be sewn using bias tape to exactly match the clothing

How to sew in a hidden zipper correctly

Open the fittings and place the seam line seam allowances with the wrong side facing up. The teeth of the fastener should follow the edges of the seam, and the top of the zipper tape should be precisely aligned with the edge of the dress neckline or the top of the skirt yoke. It is important that the fastener does not move when sewing in, so it must be basted by hand contrasting thread with simple forward stitches. When basting, move from top to bottom!

Check the operation of the basted fittings. If it lies perfectly flat, does not bulge or jam, you can sew it in using a sewing machine. Place the fabric under the zipper foot and sew a straight stitch on both sides of the zipper between the tape and the teeth. When you bring the stitches to the runner, secure the thread double knot. Close the zipper and replace the machine foot with a regular one. Sew the open seam of the back of the skirt or back of the dress, carefully cut and pull out the contrast basting, and press the finished seams of the hidden zipper.

Sometimes the process of sewing a zipper into a dress causes certain difficulties for seamstresses who do not have sufficient experience. Or maybe you are not a seamstress, but just want to replace a broken zipper on your favorite dress? This article will be useful in both cases for both professionals and amateur beginners. sewing. After reading this detailed instructions all questions will disappear by themselves, and you will easily cope with the task.

Necessary materials and equipment

Before you start directly repairing the dress, prepare everything you need so that you don’t have to look for it all in the bustle and get distracted:

  • a sewing machine (and a special foot for a hidden zipper);
  • lightning;
  • tailor's chalk or soap (dry, with a sharp edge);
  • threads;
  • needles;
  • scissors.

Choosing a place for a zipper on a dress

There are two options:

  • in the middle seam on the back;
  • in the side seam.

Most often they are sewn into the middle seam on the back. A zipper placed here will not deform the dress or create unevenness. But difficulties may arise due to the inconvenience of use: to fasten such a zipper, you will always have to ask for help. What if there is no one nearby?
In this case, you can sew a zipper into the side seam of the dress. And here, keep in mind that a minimal error can lead to the sides of the dress puffing up, especially if the dress is made of light, thin fabric.


Preparatory process

To sew a hidden zipper, you need to finish the open seam. We overlay the edges of the seam or treat it with bias silk tape so that they do not fray later during work. Using chalk (or soap in the absence of it) on the inside we outline the lines for sewing in a hidden zipper. Leave seam allowances 1.5 cm wide, turn them over, press down a little, but do not iron.


Working with lightning

Open the zipper and place it over the allowances (on the front part). We place the zipper teeth perfectly evenly - so that they coincide with the middle line on the dress. Place the top of the braid at the level top edge neck of the dress. Overcast the zipper using wide stitches. And start doing this from the top on both the left and right sides.


Connecting the sewing machine

Let's move on to final a stage where you have practically nothing to do, because automatic processes are included in the work:

  • prepare sewing machine for use;
  • replace the standard foot with a foot for attaching a hidden zipper;
  • bend its teeth with the nail of your index finger (this is done so that you can see how the seam is laid and the seam line itself);
  • stitch along the left side of the zipper stitching from top to bottom, and right side– start doing it from the bottom without interrupting the line.

Congratulations! You just sewed a zipper into your dress yourself!


Little tricks

Each seamstress has her own little secrets that help achieve best result. Here are some of them:

  • some glue strips of thin glue, and then stitch the folds for the zipper so that the zipper holds more securely and has a neater appearance;
  • the end of the zipper should be 2.5-3 cm below the mark you made, which determines the designated area for the zipper;
  • The stitching on the zipper should be located at a distance of 1 mm from the teeth.

Now you don't have to run to the tailor shop if you need to sew a zipper into your dress. You can easily do this yourself if you can read and have basic skills in working with a sewing machine.