How to sew a hidden zipper into a skirt. The rule for sewing in a hidden zipper

Beginning needlewomen involved in sewing are sure that sewing on a hidden fastener is problematic. IN finished product it should not be visible, and this is important when things are combined beautiful fabric and original style. After looking at the accessory live, women are wondering how to sew hidden zipper as accurately as possible.

What is required for work

Hidden clasp different from the usual design. On the front side in the finished product, only the slider is visible, and the teeth are on the wrong side. Everything looks nice and neat, because the edges of the material are tightly brought together. How to sew a hidden zipper and what is needed for such work?

If you are doing this for the first time, then you will need attention and patience. After the first lesson, next time, you will do everything quickly. First you need to buy a lock suitable color. The required length is 20 centimeters. Please note that the teeth on the reverse side should be bent, forming a groove for stitching. For work you will need:

threads in the color of the material;
needle;
pins to pin the fastener before basting;
sewing machine;
special foot;
gasket to strengthen the edge - dublerin or interlining.

How to use dublerin

Shops offer a huge selection of materials for sewing. There are heavy dense fabrics, knitted fabric and weightless silk. Each type requires special techniques, its own approach when sewing. There will be no problems if you decide to sew a hidden lock into a product made of thick fabric. Another thing is stretching, loose materials. How to sew a hidden zipper into a skirt in this case? A special fabric - doublerin will help you.

This is a strip of very thin lining material with a layer of glue applied to it, which looks like small grains on one side. Before sewing on the lock, along the line along which it will be attached, a dublerin is swept. The lining is installed with the adhesive side to the fabric, and fixed with a hot iron. Edges reinforced in this way will not stretch. If the fabric is glued well, everything will be sewn neatly.

Which foot is needed for a hidden zipper

Wondering how to sew a hidden zipper into a skirt? Just buy a special foot. The set of modern machines includes a device that is suitable for ordinary locks, if you try, you can sew in and hidden. It is more convenient to do this with a special foot. It has grooves at the base, into which teeth enter, opening up a place for stitching. The needle is stuck close to them - so that after sewing the stitching is not visible. You can buy a metal or plastic foot, but the first one will last longer.

How to sew a hidden zipper into a skirt

There are many ways to sew a hidden lock. Craftswomen with experience do it without tacking, right away. Someone uses only chipping with pins, gradually removing them when sewing, so as not to break the needle sewing machine. It is better for beginner needlewomen to sequentially perform operations, chipping and tacking the lock. Over time, you yourself will choose the appropriate technology for sewing a hidden fastener, you will do it easily and simply.

Where the lock will be sewn in is up to you. It can be lateral or middle seam behind - it does not matter for the execution technique. How to sew a hidden zipper into a skirt? Technically, it's better to do this:

fold the fabric in half where the fastener is sewn;
make an allowance of 1.5 cm from the edge and draw a seam line;
sweep the product along this markup;
overcast each edge separately;
iron the seam according to the mark;
straighten it and iron it;
on the wrong side of the product, attach the lock with the teeth down so that they are aligned with the middle of the seam;
the slider should line up with the fold line top cut skirts.

Steps for sewing a hidden lock:

stretch the slider to the front side;
pin the lock with pins across, under the teeth;
baste to one layer of the hem, making a seam in the middle;
remove pins;
fully open the clasp;
sew one side with a special foot, which will bend the edge with teeth;
repeat the operation on the other side, if the fabric is sliding, - satin or silk - it is necessary to stitch each time from above;
make a fixing seam from the wrong side about 1 cm at the bottom of the lock;
sew back seam to end;
make a facing of the top of the skirt;
do the processing and hem the hem.

Features of jerseys

There are nuances in knitted skirt sew a hidden zipper quickly and without problems. The technology itself remains unchanged, but it is necessary to carry out preparatory work:

buy a special needle for knitwear - it has a rounded end;
pick up the step length on a separate piece of fabric;
check line;
glue the place of attaching the lock with a non-woven or dublin gasket;
Place a strip of paper under the fabric to guide the fabric correctly while sewing.

How to sew a zipper into a skirt with a belt

If you plan to sew a skirt with a belt, then in order for it to look neat, a hidden clasp should be fastened to the very top. You need to perform the following operations:

the blank for the belt is folded in half along the length, and ironed;
stitched on one side to the upper cut of the product;
a seam where a hidden fastener will be sewn in until it is sewn;
the upper edge is fixed at the fold of the belt with pins, basted;
sew a clasp;
sew a seam at the back;
the belt is bent along the ironed place and sewn on finally;
the side seam covering the fastener is sewn on by hand.

Video: sewing a hidden zipper into a skirt

Agree that a dress with a zipper is much more convenient to wear. But lightning is not decorative element dresses, so we will show you how to sew a hidden zipper into a dress so that no one will guess that your dress has a zipper on the back.

Materials and tools:

- fastener - zipper 55 cm long - 1 pc.,
- sewing threads of a suitable color,
- sewing machine,
- a special foot for sewing in a zipper.

Process description:

The zipper can be sewn into the dress along the central back seam at the very beginning of sewing the dress, immediately after you have sewn the two back halves of the dress to the mark of the bottom of the zipper.
Or, on the contrary, at the end of sewing the dress, when the tucks, shoulder and side seams dresses, sewn neckline. The neckline is not sewn to the end, but left unsewn small areas next to the back seam of the dress so that you can sew the zipper all the way to the top of the back, and only then sew the neckline to the end.

Let's consider the second option. But first things first.

The back seam of the dress is stitched and ironed on both sides up to the neckline. Open the zipper, unfold the pressed back seam and sew left side zipper with a basting seam (“forward needle”), starting from the top and placing the teeth close to the ironed edge of the vertical seam of the back of the dress.

Sew the left side of the zipper all the way to the end. The end of the zipper is sewn below the point where the two back halves meet.

Now zip up, attach it right side To right side back, sew a couple of basting stitches, then open the zipper again and sew it, as well as the left side of it, to the very end. You may ask why we closed the zipper in the first place. The fact is that if this is not done and aligned top edges zipper, after you sew the second half of the zipper, you will be surprised to find that its ends did not meet at the same level, in other words, the zipper was warped. Well, the zipper is attached to the dress. Now is the time to try on the dress and check if everything is in order, if the zipper is pulling and if its lower end is sticking out.

You can start sewing on the zipper. For this, sewing machines have special paws. Structurally, they may differ from each other, but functionally, they all press the zipper braid with teeth well in its unfolded state.

Install the special foot. Unfold the teeth with your fingers, press them with the foot and sew as close to the teeth as possible, as close as possible, at a distance of 1 mm from the teeth. The lightning next to the teeth has such a hollow, that's where the needle of the sewing machine should go.

Sew to the end of the zipper, spreading the teeth with your finger in front of the moving foot. The zipper is in the open position.

But at the very end, the lightning slider clearly interferes with you. Stop the machine, raise the needle, close the zipper by 3 cm, put the needle back in the same place and continue the seam with the zipper closed. I’ll make a reservation right away that sewing as close to the teeth will no longer work, you will have to flash 1 mm to the right. Sew to the very end of the zipper.

Finished? Now unfold the product and start sewing on the second half of the zipper while in the closed position. Sew 3 centimeters.

Then stop, raise the needle, unzip the zipper, and continue sewing the zipper as close to the teeth as possible to the very top of the dress. Delete the note.

And now sew the zipper braid to the hem of the back seam of the dress, this is not at all difficult and you can do this both with the same foot with which you sewed the zipper, and with the usual foot with which you sew the dress.

This is what the sewn zipper looks like on the wrong side of the dress.

Overlock the hem of the back seam of the dress. If there is no overlock, you can process it with a zigzag seam on a sewing machine. You can not process at all if the dress is lined.

But I adhere to this rule: from the wrong side, the dress should be as beautiful as from the front. This is my creed.

The zipper is sewn into the dress. It remains to sew to the end the facing of the neck. Bend the end of the facing so that it does not go beyond the edge of the zipper.

Turn the neckline to the wrong side, iron. Iron the dress along the zipper, first from the wrong side, then from the front. The zipper must be closed.

Now you can put the dress on the lining, but this is the topic of another master class.

Same with the zipped one.

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Currently, in addition to the usual zipper, you can also buy a secret zipper in stores. This is a very popular type of clasp used in various models dresses. Hidden - that is, invisible and imperceptible. This quality allows it to be used for sewing many products.

So, in order to sew such a fastener, you will need certain sewing skills and perseverance. You also need materials and tools. First, you need the hidden zipper itself. By appearance it resembles an ordinary one, only the teeth on it are on wrong side. From the inside, it is the same as a regular zipper from the front side. The hidden zipper at the castle itself has a groove along which it should be sewn. The seam can be laid further from the groove, but not closer. The clasp must be about 2 cm longer than the slit. Secondly, you will need a needle, thread and a sewing machine with a special foot for attaching a zipper (single-legged). Thirdly, you need a product to which we will sew a zipper. In our example, this is a skirt.

Before sewing the fastener into the skirt, you need to decide where it will be located - in the side or middle seam. The sewing technique in all seams is the same. Hidden zipper and threads must match the color of the product. After choosing a place, we get to work. We will look at how to sew a hidden zipper into the middle back seam of a skirt.

First, on the skirt we mark with chalk or a pin the length of the castle in ready-made, this is about 20 cm. Then we sew the middle seam from this mark. Before stitching, the sections must be overcast on an overlocker or sewing machine. If the product is sewn from stretch fabric, then before overcasting, the place where the zipper is sewn in must be glued with doubler strips so that the fabric does not stretch.

After the sections are glued, swept over, the seam is sewn and ironed out, we proceed to stitching the fastener. We put it on the fabric in such a way that the upper ponytails are free. This will be required to process the top cut. We first pin both sides of the zipper with pins to the fabric, and then we tack the cut to the cut, stepping back from the edge of 0.5 cm. Having done this, make sure that the hidden lock is not warped.

Then, on the sewing machine, we install a special foot for sewing in a zipper. We put the skirt in such a way that one side of the fastener is under the foot. We start the line from the backtack and lay it strictly along the groove to the place where the middle seam of the skirt begins.

Sew on the other side as well. After sewing in the zipper, it is necessary to close it and see if there are any distortions anywhere. To do this, you should carefully, so as not to damage the line, first get the tail through the free space below, and then the dog itself.

Sometimes it is required to sew a hidden zipper into a lined stretch fabric skirt without a belt. Lining in skirts is used so that the back of the product does not stretch during wear and the shape is better preserved. Also, thanks to the lining, it is possible to avoid sticking of the skirt to the legs and electrification. In addition, such a skirt will last much longer and will wrinkle less.

Now let's talk about how to sew a hidden zipper into a skirt made of stretch fabrics. As mentioned above, first we glue the place where the lock is sewn in with doubler strips 2 cm wide.

Then we do everything in the same way as on a skirt made of ordinary fabric. Only then it is necessary to sew a lining with a lining on both sides of the zipper. Turning and lining are sewn in a circle before stitching a secret lock. Having laid the seam from the inside to the fastener, we grab the free tail that was left earlier. We sew the lining to the allowance, where a hidden zipper is already sewn. We finish the seam at 0.5 cm of the middle seam of the lining. We also do the other side.

Now everything is sewn on. It remains only to turn it out and iron it through a damp cloth. How to sew a hidden zipper into a lined skirt, we figured it out.

Your task is to sew on a hidden zipper, that is, to hide the fastener from prying eyes. An ignorant person should not distinguish fittings from ordinary connecting seam. Carefully match the zipper under the dress or skirt so that the color of the main product and the fasteners match to halftones. The lock slider will be visible from the "face" of the finished outfit, so pay attention to its size and design. In addition to accessories, you will need:

threads main (to match the clothes) and auxiliary (contrasting);
sharpened scissors;
tailor's meter;
chalk or remnant;
iron with steam function;
sewing machine with zipper foot;
overlock (if the machine does not sew with a zigzag).

Adjust the length of the seam for the fastener in advance in order to buy accessories of the required size. According to the recommendations of professional tailors, a hidden zipper should be 1.5 centimeters longer than the sewing line.

Choose a thin, strong iron zipper. The stroke of the slider should not be too tight or light. Place the fittings vertically and pull the canvas base in both directions - if the lock is easily dispersed, the slider is unreliable

We change the dog with a zipper on our own

Preparing the seam for sewing in a hidden zipper

Before sewing in a hidden zipper, the seam must be properly prepared. Often outfits with this kind of fasteners are made from delicate fabrics, the styles are chosen tight-fitting. If such a canvas is used, do not side zipper: even the most elegant fittings can deform the silhouette.

Mark with a small or pointed remnant the place where the fastener is attached - the median vertical line on the back of the dress or at the back of the skirt. If the cut detail is made of two parts (for example, the left and right shelves), the fittings will be sewn in at the joints of the fabric. Allow for standard seam allowances of 1.5 centimeters high.

Very carefully make a clean cut with sharp tailor's scissors and finish the fabric edges with an overlock or machine zigzag stitch. Bend the allowances to the inside of the dress or skirt, and then thoroughly steam them with an iron. It is important that these strips of fabric do not turn inside out when sewing in accessories.

You can process sections of the fabric on which the zipper will be sewn using an oblique inlay exactly to match the clothes

How to sew in a hidden zipper

Open the fittings and place on the seam allowances with the wrong side up. The teeth of the fastener should run along the edges of the seam, and the top of the zipper tape must be exactly aligned with the edge of the neckline of the dress or the top of the yoke of the skirt. It is important that the clasp does not move during sewing, so it must be tacked by hand contrasting thread simple stitches "forward needle". When basting, move from top to bottom!

Check the operation of the tacked fittings. If it lies perfectly even, does not bulge, does not jam, you can sew it in with sewing machine. Bring the fabric under the special zipper foot and sew a straight stitch on both sides of the fastener between the tape and the teeth. When you bring the stitches to the slider, fasten the thread double knot. Close the zipper and change to a regular machine foot. Sew an open seam at the back of the skirt or back of the dress, carefully cut and pull out the contrasting basting, iron the finished seams of the hidden zipper.

How to hem a dress?

A hidden zipper is indispensable when you need a fastener invisible from the front for a dress, skirt, bag. It is not so easy to sew it in correctly without deforming the product. What you need to know to sew a hidden zipper?

Hidden zipper features

Features of a hidden zipper are that it hides in the seam of the product, and only the slider remains on the surface. In the usual one, it is located on the side of the teeth, in the secret one - on the side reverse side. But do not confuse, some ordinary zippers also have teeth hidden under the braid. You can distinguish it this way: in a hidden zipper in the open form, the teeth can be easily bent, while in other species it is not.

How to choose the right hidden zipper? Pay attention to the width, type and density of the base material. The lighter the fabric of the product, the thinner the zipper is chosen. The length should be 2-3 cm longer than the planned length of the fastener.

Iron the zipper before work. If it is on a cotton tape, it is done with steam. The fact is that the zipper tape can stretch or shrink and wrinkle the fabric in the finished product.

"Hidden" sewing foot

To attach a hidden zipper, a special foot is used, which allows you to attach it as close as possible to the teeth. It does not always come with a sewing machine, but is sold in specialized stores. It differs from the usual one in the shape of the sole: on the surface of the product there are grooves or grooves for the lightning spiral.

To choose the right foot, take with you to the store any that is suitable for the sewing machine. Paws different models have design features:

on the "leg";
with removable sole;
with screw fastening.

They can also be metal or plastic. Metal models will last longer. Plastic is a less durable material. Over time, such a foot is deformed by a needle or machine bar teeth, and its sliding worsens. But if the foot is needed for a one-time job, then plastic product fit.

What do you need to work

To sew a zipper, you will need:

zipper;
chalk
ruler;
tailor's pins;
needle and thread;
"hidden" paw.

Before starting work, check the tension of the upper and lower threads in the machine. If it is strong, then loosen it, otherwise the zipper will puff up after stitching.

Do not use too thick needles and threads for stitching.

Non-woven strips

Sewing a zipper so as not to stretch the fabric is easy. It is necessary to glue the seam allowances in the place where the zipper is sewn in with the help of non-woven strips. For this purpose are intended:

formband - an oblique non-woven trim with a central stitch, which is used on oblique cuts or for knitwear and is glued so that the central line coincides with the seam marking;
contenband - a non-woven adhesive strip, cut in a straight line, which is glued 1 mm beyond the seam marking.

If there is no formband or contenband, strips are cut out of non-woven fabric: for oblique cuts and knitwear along the oblique, for straight lines - along the straight line.

How to sew on a hidden zipper

To sew a hidden zipper, perform a series of sequential steps.

The first stage - preparation

Measure from the inside 1.5 cm from the cut of the fabric and draw a line with chalk on both sides.
Glue to the allowances at the place where the strips of non-woven fabric are sewn in - a form band or a conten band. If the fabric is rough and dense, you can do without interlining.
Baste the seam according to the markup.
Overcast the cuts with an overlocker or by hand.
Iron the seam. In this case, first iron the seam on one side, and then iron it on different sides.

The second stage - basting

Attach a closed zipper in the center to the stitching point, make chalk marks on the seam allowances and the zipper tape symmetrically on both sides in two or three places. They will be needed to more accurately sew a zipper. Top part fasteners should match the mark of the top seam for attaching a belt for a skirt or neckline, if this is a dress.
Insert the pins along the marks across the fastener and fasten the zipper with seam allowances under the teeth.
Baste the zipper over the seam allowances, piercing only one layer of fabric.
Remove the pins, remove the seam basting, open the zipper.

The third stage - stitching

Sew the zipper on the machine using a special foot until it rests on the fastener. If there is no special foot, use the usual one. Then you need to manually bend the lightning spiral and make sure that the seam goes as close as possible to the spiral, but does not damage it. If there is little experience, then it is better to attach both sides from above in order to prevent skew.
Zip up and make sure everything is done correctly.
Continue the side seam so that the bottom bartack is not visible. It should be 0.5-0.7 cm below the end of the seam.
Delete note.

How to sew a hidden zipper - video

Features of sewing in a hidden zipper

Depending on the specific product, fabric, cut and sewing place, there are some nuances. Described below various options zipper stitching.

Bag, pillowcase

The easiest option to sew a zipper into a bag or pillowcase is to sew a zipper to the cut, but not sewn parts, and then assemble the product. The zipper should be 5 cm longer than the fastener. Instead of tacking, a glue stick for fabrics is also used.

Marking is applied to the front side of the product.
Lubricate the allowance with glue.
We impose an unzipped zipper with the slider down, combining the spiral with the marking line and press it with a hot iron.

In order not to stain the ironing surface, place paper under the item. After that, it remains only to sew a zipper on a typewriter and assemble the product.

Seamless skirt

The first step is to mark the place for sewing in the zipper.
We carefully cut the fabric to the length of the fastener, adding 5-7 cm.
We duplicate (glue) the sections with a suitable non-woven tape, overlay the sections.
We sew a zipper.
The rest of the incision is closed with a suture.

Dress

If the clasp in the dress starts below the neckline or armhole, the seam before the clasp starts to open is ground in advance. We carefully combine the details along the waistline, especially in detachable dresses.

Important! If the fabric is cut on an oblique or the cut is curved, duplicate the allowances with non-woven tape. We do the same with thin and knitted (stretching) fabrics.

How to sew a zipper into the side seam of a dress cut off at the waist - video

Sewing a hidden zipper into any product is not so difficult if you know some tricks and secrets. Guided by the recommendations described, everyone can easily do this.