Giants divided the perfume market. The history of perfumery: the contribution of France - Olga Lukyanova Academy of Aromatherapy and Aromapsychology

Rise of perfume art in France

The 17th century saw the flourishing of the art of perfumery in France. It is quite natural that the honor of inventing many perfume compositions belongs to the romantic and gallant French. The French applied perfume not only to the body, but also to clothing and accessories (especially fans and gloves), and wigs.

But the main The first breakthrough in the development of perfumery art occurred in the 18th century, when inIn 1709, the Italian barber Giovanni Paolo Feminis, who lives in Cologne, created "Cologne water" - cologne ("eau de Cologne"). It consisted of grape spirit, as well as basic components: ner oilsoli, bergamot, lemon, lavender and rosemary.

Soon this aromatic remedy (which was also used as a miraculous elixir capable of healing almost all diseases, including smallpox and plague; it was taken orally, injected and enemas with it) gained phenomenal popularity and quickly spread.spread throughout Europe.

Cologne water became a perfume tool thanks to Napoleon Bonaparte, who in 1810 issued a decree obliging all perfumers to discover the formulas of all their achievements. So the medicine turned into a cologne, which impressed the emperor of France so much that even during military campaigns and fierce hostilities, he always carried a bottle of Cologne water with him.

According to contemporaries, Napoleon literally watered himself with this cologne, spending up to two bottles a day. The Emperor's passion for fragrant water served as a powerful additional advertisement: every fancologne felt involved in the tastes of the Napoleonic court.

Another important French contribution to the development of the perfume industry is thatOh, they perfected the ancient Egyptian art of making perfume bottles. After the opening of the Baccarat glassworks in 1765, the French produced bottles of the most bizarre shapes.

In the XIX century, the development of science and chemistry opens up great opportunities for the perfume industry. Changes in tastes and advances in chemistry gave a new impetus to the development of perfumery. French revolution did not in the least diminish the popularity of fragrances, on the contrary, new scents and new names appeared, for example, Parfum a la Guillotine, which was one of the first perfume bestsellers. Around the same time, ladies began to carry special scented boxes with them, the prototype of modern perfumes.

Grasse is the center of the perfume revolution

Grasse is a small town in the south of France, in Provence. It was here that the revolution in the perfume industry began. Grasse became the world's largest supplier of perfume raw materials.

Every year in May, the inhabitants of Grasse gathered an unusual "harvest". Young girls in long dresses and straw hats with bows in the early morning began to collect fragrant flowers of jasmine and tuberose, cassia and orange blossom, roses or violets in wicker baskets.

By the beginning of the 20th century, there were already fifty factories in Grasse, processing up to 45 thousand kilograms of roses per day during the period of the most intensive collection. The flower grower handed over the collected flowers to the factories every day, and the amount of raw materials handed over was recorded in a special book, since payment was made at the end of the season.

The jasmine harvest period is longer than that of a rose, but the September jasmine was cheaper, especially if the flowers were soaked with rain. Sorting of the flower mass had to be done quickly to avoid the slightest heating or fermentation process if the petals were left in the pile for too long. In the saturation workshop, workers transferred the precious petals of jasmine, tuberose or jonquil to a frame filled with clarified oil, where a cold maceration took place with the renewal of the petals every twenty-four hours until the oil was saturated.

For the flowers of cassia, rose, orange, jasmine and mimosa, the adsorption oil was maintained in a liquid state by light heating, just as in the processing of dewy incense, styrax, etc. Distillation took place in other workshops: fresh or dry plants (mainly pre-moistened) into the salty and heated water that filled the ancient retorts and stills inherited from the distant alchemical past. The process was closely monitored to avoid a sudden increase in temperature that could "burn" the aromas of lavender, thyme, anise and rose.

Among traditional ways there was a water bath: a slow and costly process, but one that guaranteed excellent essential oils. Finally, essential oils isolated with volatile solvents. This method has been especially used to obtain fragrances from roses, animal products, resins and balsams, as well as flowers that are not all given up in the process of saturating the oils.

Since the production of perfumery raw materials is a very long and costly process, it is very expensive. So, one kilogram of pink concentrate costs $9,000, but it is enough to produce several hundred bottles of perfume.

However, due to the intrusion of chemistry into the world of perfumery, as well as the use of cheaper labor and ingredients, China, India, South Africa and Morocco became the centers of production of perfume raw materials. The concentrate that they produce is inferior to the Grasse counterpart, but it also costs less, which is why it is in demand on the perfume market. However, despite this, Grasse still retains the status of the world's perfume capital.

In 1828, Pierre Francois Guerlain opened the first perfume shop in Paris and laid the foundation for the Guerlain perfume dynasty. Five generations of hereditary perfumers gave the world such masterpieces as Jicky (1889), Shalimar (1925), Mitsouko (1919) and others.

In the middle of the 19th century, the production of perfumes and toilet water ceased to be artisanal and acquired an industrial scale. The impetus for the creation of large perfume companies was the emergence of the science of creating fragrances, the foundations of which were developed by the "fathers" luxury perfumery- Jean Guerlain, François Coty and Ernest Daltrophe.

At the same time, Francois Coty began to experiment with artificial scents, combining them with natural essences. The result of his experiments was the release in 1917 of Chupre toilet water, which later became the prototype for a whole fragrant family and served as the basis for the world-famous Chanel No. 5 perfume. In addition, oriental and amber fragrances were actively developed and improved.

However, Jean Patou glorified French perfumery all over the world. Released by him in 1930, Joy was a real breakthrough and received the title of "the most expensive perfume in the world". For its production, only the most expensive and rare raw materials were used, so 50 ml. perfume cost $120. Jean Patou created Joy after the US stock market crashed in 1929. The fragrance was meant to lift the spirits and inspire hope for the future for Patu's American customers who were going through hard times. Unchanged since 1930, the composition is built on an amazing combination of rose and jasmine, creating an amazing floral melody that has become the trademark of Jean Patou perfumery for many years.

In development French perfumery in the first half of the twentieth century, it is impossible not to mention two more legendary fragrances: Shalimar by Guerlain and Chanel No. 5 by Chanel. Shalimar is a classic soft sandalwood fragrance created by Jacques Guerlain in 1921. In 1925, it was released in a bottle of Baccarat crystal and sent to the World's Fair. The fragrance and its name are inspired by the story of Princess Mumtaz Mahal, for whom her husband Shah Jahan erected the legendary Taj Mahal.

The name Shalimar comes from the gardens of Shalimar, Mumtaz Mahal's favorite spot. In Sanskrit, "Shalimar" means "temple of love." Shalimar - sweet, oriental vanilla flavor, the composition of which consists of perfume notes of citrus, cedar, bergamot, iris, patchouli, jasmine, rose, leather, sandalwood, musk, civet, vanilla and incense.

Perfume Chanel No. 5 was created by a brilliant perfumer, a native of Russia, Ernest Bo in 1921. Legend has it that Coco Chanel asked a perfumer to create "an artificial fragrance that smells like a Woman". Creating the first Chanel fragrance, Bo experimented with aldehydes - synthetic floral scents - and became the first perfumer who managed to build a full-fledged fragrance based on aldehyde molecules.

Beau presented Chanel with a choice of ten fragrances, of which she chose the fifth, hence the name of the masterpiece. Chanel No. 5 is floral fragrance, the perfume composition of which includes notes of neroli, ylang-ylang, bergamot, lemon, iris, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, amber, sandalwood, patchouli, musk, vanilla, vetiver and oak moss. Today, a bottle of Chanel No. 5 perfume is sold in the world every 30 seconds.

These fragrances were the first true elite spirits, a symbol of French perfumery.

To be continued...

The mysterious and inexplicable nature of smells has always attracted mankind. Subtle aromas of flowers, spicy smells of trees and resins - all this evoked and continues to evoke reverent delight in a person. It is impossible to say with certainty who and when first realized that it is possible to learn how to extract their fragrant quintessence from natural substances. Most likely, this happened at the dawn of the development of mankind, when a branch of sandalwood or coniferous resin fell into the fire. Since then, one of the most fascinating pages in the development of civilization began - the history of perfumery.

The history of perfumery: how did it all begin?

The exact date of birth of perfume art is lost in the mists of time. It is only known that it appeared in the ancient southern and Eastern countries- in particular, in Mesopotamia and Arabia. At first, the scope of the use of incense was rather limited and consisted in religious ceremonies and sacrifices. And only after some time, fragrant suits became more widespread.

The pioneers in the world of smells were the Egyptians. During the time of Queen Cleopatra, who, by the way, herself composed some aromatic compositions, the use of incense and body rubs spread to the highest circles of the Egyptian aristocracy.

From the Egyptians, the art of preparing and using aromatic potions was adopted by the Israelites, Assyrians, Romans and Greeks. In the ancient world, frankincense, rose, santal, musk, myrrh and other fragrances that are still widely used were especially popular. Many Roman emperors (such as Calligula, Otho and Nero) had a special weakness for refined incense, instilling this habit in noble patricians.

The history of perfumery would not be complete if the Arabs did not add important touches to its canvas. The legendary healer Avicenna was the first to extract the odorous constituent of plants through the process of distillation. It was he who first received the famous rose water.

India, with its richness of flora, also did not stand aside from the development of the art of perfumery. It was on her lands that incense was made with the aromas of patchouli, sandalwood, amber, vetiver, musk, cinnamon, cloves, camphor, rose and jasmine.

Perfumes in European countries

As for Europe, it for a long time was immune to the magical charm of incense. The first enlighteners of the wild barbarians in this respect were the Roman legionnaires. However, as soon as Roman dominion fell under the onslaught of the warlike Goths and Huns, the beginnings of a refined reverence for smells again disappeared into oblivion.

The situation changed with the beginning of the Crusades, when the knights who returned from the eastern lands brought fragrant gifts to the ladies of the heart. In the 12th century, the first perfumeries were already operating in France, but three centuries later, with the start of the production of alcohol, perfumery moved to a new stage of development. Since that moment, the history of perfumery and cosmetics has developed by leaps and bounds: perfumes, eau de toilette, cologne, fragrant ointments and ointments have become a prerequisite for the existence of any self-respecting aristocrat, and a little later they moved to the masses.

France has become a mecca for perfume lovers (and, by the way, before today she remains). The foundations of this art, laid in the city of Grasse, influenced the development of the ability to compose aromatic compositions all over the world. During Napoleon's time, the use of cologne and eau de toilette reached its peak. The fashion for everything French, which overwhelmed the upper strata of Russian society, implied the use of real French perfumes. As for England, here Puritan traditions and moral laws did not allow the use of too heavy fragrances - it was simply indecent.

In the 20th century, the profession of a perfumer not only did not give up its positions, but, on the contrary, became even more in demand. With the development of the fashion industry and the creation of the first fashion houses, the need for new fragrances has increased even more. The very perception of perfumery was also changing: from now on, not only the smell itself was important, but also the design of the bottle, its size, shape, color, ease of use. From the very beginning of the 20th century and until now, the leading gurus of the fashion and cosmetic industry have regularly pampered their fans with new fragrances.

Summing up

The history of perfumery is another proof that humanity (and especially the fair sex) is doing everything possible to once again emphasize its attractiveness. And the smell harmoniously matched to the image only enhances it.

The world perfume market has a precise center, and this center is located in the small town of Grasse, near Cannes. It was here that the perfume industry of France was born. Here took place historical events in perfumery, and now it is also the center of the global perfume industry. Most perfume makers draw their inspiration from the scents of the flowers that grow on the slopes of Grasse.

french perfume have a rich history dating back to the 12th century. At all times, perfumes were very expensive, and only wealthy citizens could afford them. The first perfumers studied for a long time before working with the master and composing compositions.

High demand for French perfume created Coco Chanel and her legendary Chanel perfume. Chanel No. 5 perfume, known all over the world today, was composed of several notes and had simple form in the form of a strict square of transparent glass. The history of these spirits includes a special relationship between Koko and his highness, Prince Dmitry Pavlovich. Perfume from the house of Chanel is a symbol of elegance and sophistication. Women who choose Chanel perfumes know their worth very well and are confident in themselves.

France has been a recognized leader and trendsetter in the perfume industry for many centuries. Aromas are invisible, but they are unforgettable. They have their own language, they can ask questions, they are amorous, able to win hearts and charm. French perfume - sign exquisite taste women, a sign of luxury and grace. Other popular French perfumes are Dior.

Christian Dior

Fragrance creator Christian Dior created his first fragrance back in 1966, and it was the men's perfume Eau Sauvage, which is still a favorite today. House DIOR in 1985 releases another hit - perfume "Poison" with a very bright and provocative name, followed by hits that continue the history of the popular "poison" in the form of Tendre Poison, Pure Poison, Hypnotic Poison. Perfume Dior Fahrenheit became a hit men's perfumery, since they included a woody-violet chord that influenced the composition of male compositions. Other Dior perfumes that have been top sellers for many years are the J "Adore perfume with a floral-fruity aroma and the sensual Dior Addict perfume with the scent of exotic flowers and vanilla.

Yves Saint Laurent

Another famous French brand is Yves Saint Laurent. In 1964 the world received its first women's perfume under the letter "Y" and the presentation of fragrances from the designer won its share of popularity, especially since in 1971 a cologne with the eloquent name "Pour Hommes" was released, for which the fashion designer himself appeared nude. In 1977, he released the perfume "Opium", which conquered the whole world.

The famous French brand Lancome (Lancome) is popular with women of all ages all over the world, including in Russia. Arman Ptizhan - founder of the brand, worked with the best specialists to create their creations - chic perfumes from Lancome. The company first announced itself at the annual exhibition in Brussels in 1935, presenting its first 5 fragrances there: "Tendre Nuit", "Bocages", "Conquete", "Kypre" and "Tropiques". Since its founding, Lancome has become famous for creating unusual perfumes with sophisticated aromas and magical names, and, following this tradition, has created many unforgettable and beautiful perfumes, which later earned the title of "great classics". A number of these perfumes are represented by the gentle smell of "Climat", the fresh water of "O de Lancome", the aroma of "Magie Noire", the tenderness of the perfume "Tresor". One of the latest novelties from Lancome was Lancome Hynose Homme eau de toilette, released as a paired variation to a similar one. feminine fragrance which has already won the hearts of many women.

French perfumes are the constant companions of any woman, regardless of her age. Nevertheless, we recommend choosing perfumes in accordance with your temperament, character, and lifestyle. Also, when applying perfume, you should follow the advice of the legendary Coco Chanel "apply drops of perfume in those places where you are waiting for kisses."

Anyone who watched the movie Perfumer remembers what a fantastic scent he managed to create main character film Jean-Baptiste Grenouille, who transgressed through all moral laws to achieve his goal. This smell evoked a feeling of all-consuming love, making a person forget about everything in the world.

It can be said that this is just a fiction of the author, however modern science aromocology, which includes many sections, including aromapsychology, suggests that smell is a way to control mental state person. One of the branches of aromocology is perfumery- the science of perfume making. Therefore, when buying perfume, remember that this is a powerful emotional and sexual remedy impact on you and those around you. You also need to remember that the aroma has an individual effect - what you like may disgust another!

The development of fragrances, which include a huge variety of smells, is carried out by companies leading their history from generation to generation. And this history has its roots in ancient civilizations.

IN Ancient Egypt perfumes were made from herbs based on oil. The wife of Pharaoh Akhenaten, the beautiful Nefertiti, used perfume. Judging by its sculptural image, which is considered the standard female beauty, we can say that the spirits gave her beauty only even more charm and charm.

But the use of perfume by another Egyptian ruler - Cleopatra, gives a subject for fantasy. Her image on the coins: hook-nosed and plump, does not fit in with the glory of an incredible beauty and seductress, perhaps it was thanks to the skillful use of incense and perfume that she could manipulate men in this way.

About fifty million receptors are involved in the sense of smell, and nervous system is in direct contact with outside world, without any signal conversion mechanism, i.e. the brain has a direct outlet to the olfactory organs, which is why the influence of odors on a person is so great.

As you know, the basis of Egyptian culture was a belief in life after death, so perfumes in beautiful clay or even gold containers were placed in tombs. And those perfumes that were used in embalming were made from plants brought from India: jasmine, ginger, sandalwood and oil.

In the same ancient india the most popular fragrant plants were jasmine and rose. Essential oil, rose water and essences were made from roses.

IN Ancient Greece perfume was also used oil based with smell roses, marjoram, frankincense, iris, nard. Three types of perfumes were popular in Rome: solid, oily, and aromatic powder based on saffron, almond, rose, and narcissus. The royal spirits consisted of twenty-seven components and were applied not only to the body and clothes, but also to the bed, walls, and even to battle banners.

And here first essential oil, obtained by distillation, appeared on Arab East when the famous Avicenna perfected this method, which made it possible to obtain concentrated and long-term storage of essential oils.

Europe also got acquainted with the culture of the use of aromatic substances in 10-12 c.c. during the Crusades, and perfumer's profession in Europe begins its history with 11 V. The first cologne "Cologne water", released in Cologne in 1709, was created by a native of Milan, Johann Faria. IN 17 century, the first perfume centers appeared in Nice, Cannes and Grasse, and by 18-19 century, Paris and London become perfume capitals. IN 1843 The Frenchman Alphonse Rallet opened the first large factory for the production of perfumes and soaps in Russia. This is a well-known perfumery and cosmetics factory. Liberty».

Legendary perfumes are considered the most famous perfumes in the world. Chanel #5 created by Coco Chanel and perfumer Ernest Beau. These perfumes are known for their high concentration of aldehydes - synthetic substances. The composition of these spirits includes eighty various ingredients. Ernest Bo worked on their creation for several months and Mademoiselle Chanel liked the smell of bottle number five the most.

In addition to Chanel No. 5, there are several more perfume masterpieces in the world that are timeless and fashionable. This jicky And Shalimar, the famous perfume house Guerlain, perfume Youth Dew from Estee Lauder, which are the first American perfumes of the 20th century.

First Russian company that offered perfumes with pheromones in 2004 was the Company Rosparfum. The cost of pheromones is very high, so when buying such perfumes, keep in mind that a bottle of pure pheromone should cost several thousand dollars, but not 400-700 rubles.

And in general, even if perfumes are expensive, we cannot be sure that we are buying a quality product. For example, under the guise of perfume, they can sell us toilet or perfumed water. The difference between these three types of products lies in the different percentages of aromatic substances.

Their lowest content in toilet water (marking on the package Eau de Toilette) - from 5-10%; in eau de parfum Eau de Parfum) - from 10-15%; average aromatic substances in perfumes ( perfume) is 25-30%. The higher the concentration, the greater the saturation and the better the durability of the perfume.

A fake can be calculated by packaging, where it must be indicated necessary information: percentage of alcohol, ingredients, percentage of essential oils. Now many reputable firms have abandoned cellophane shells, but if it is present, then you need to make sure that it fits the box well. Pay attention to the expiration date: imported perfumes are stored in the package for five years, but if you open them, no more than a year!

Of course, perfumes are not essential, but they bring moments of happiness and joy into our lives.

Most expensive perfume in the world Clive Christian No. 1 created by the famous British designer Clive Christian, who got into the Guinness Book of Records. They are rated at 2350 US dollars for a 30 ml bottle. Moreover, the perfume is presented not just in a designer bottle, but in a Baccarat crystal bottle with a white diamond.

The world of perfumery has its own history, which is inextricably linked with the history of all mankind.

The fact that aroma lifts us above everyday reality has long been known. No wonder the priests burned plants, performing sacred rituals, participating in rituals, with the help of smells, thus comprehending the secrets of the universe. In Rome, during antiquity, the smell was given healing power.
The first perfume box that was mentioned in history was the property of King Darius. Egypt, India, Syria and other countries produced musk, amber, saffron, myrrh, rose water, etc.
Incense was used by the ancient Romans and Greeks. From Italy, perfume spread throughout Europe. In Dr. The Greeks used resins, balms, spices, essential oils from flowers for incense, heated on coals to get the desired aroma. During excavations in that area, tablets were found that describe in detail the composition of aromas.
They were burned in temples, sacrificed to the gods, and fountains were scented with their help. Bags with dry incense were attached to clothes and hair, the body was rubbed with aromatic oils. After the invasion of the barbarians, their use ceased in Western countries. Then the distillation cube was invented, distillation improved, the method for obtaining alcohol was again discovered.
Venice became the capital of perfumery, spices from all countries of the East were processed in this city. French perfume originated in the 11th century, when the crusaders from Jerusalem brought roses and jasmine, and in the 12th century. in Europe learned about the Arab technology of distillation of alcohol. In the XV century. Paris and Grasse became known throughout the world as centers of perfumery. According to the etiquette in the French royal court, all courtiers had to use cosmetics and aroma oils.

Word " perfumery" began to be used in the lexicon from the 1st third of the 16th century, it comes from "fumus" (vapor, smoking).
In the XVI century. Maurizio Frangipani in Italy came up with the idea of ​​dissolving fragrant substances in alcohol, which was a revolution in the world of perfumery. Since then, many aroma combinations have been created, it has become possible to store aromas of herbs, flowers, trees, etc. in glass bottles. perfumes there was a clear division into women's and men's.
The creator of the cologne was the Italian Jean Marie Farina. After his death, his sons created a factory, preparing eau de parfum with high-quality grape spirit, which was given the name au-de-colon. When aged in cedar wood barrels, the alcohol was mixed with essential oils, creating a unique aroma. Water from Cologne (ear de Cologne) would have remained unknown if Napoleon had not been fond of using it (acquired up to 60 bottles every month). When he was on the island of St. Helena, and he ran out of cologne, Napoleon came up with his own recipe for perfume with bergamot, calling it toilet water.
In the second half of the XIV century. liquid perfumes appeared, which were based on alcohol and essential oils. Perfumed gloves became fashionable in the 16th century. Then perfume consumption increased in order to disguise unpleasant odors. In 1608, the first perfume factory in the world began its work in the monastery.
In the 19th century The "fathers" of perfumery F. Coty, Jean Guerlain and E. Daltrof put forward the main theories for creating fragrances. Then the release of perfumes ceased to be considered handicraft, perfume companies appeared.

Perfumery in the 20th century

When Paul Poiret expressed the idea that fragrances could be a good addition to clothing lines, couturiers combined perfumery and modeling. It happened in 1911. F. Coty combined natural and artificial smells in his compositions. In 1917, he released Chypre, from which a whole family of scents originated. Amber and oriental scents began to develop.
Women's and men's fragrances at that time began to acquire clear differences. G. Chanel in 1921 released a perfume with the trademark "Chanel No. 5". In the 1920s, perfumers found a way to create a fragrance "synthetically": Chanel No. 5 began to use aldehydes. In 1929, Liu perfume was very popular, which became a symbol of a woman's soul.
In the 1930s, sports flourished, with hints of tobacco "male" smells.

In 1944, a protest against the war appeared in the form of spirits. They were created by Marcel Rocha, who named them Femme after the woman.

In the 1950s, perfumery in France reached its peak of development, and competition intensified with the arrival of new fragrances from across the ocean.

In the 60s. there was a "boom" of men's toilet water. In the 70s, the fashion for “pret-a-porter” collections began, the “pret-a-porter de lux” perfumery appeared, which became more accessible. At the end of the 60s. an oriental theme penetrated into the perfume, the ambery smell of Fijiu by Guy Laroche and Guerlain's Chamade was fashionable.

In the 70s, the feminist movement influenced the fashion world: perfumes for women began to borrow ideas from colognes for men. Dior's Eau savage became the prototype of refreshing waters. In 1977, Yves Saint Laurent created the famous Opium.

In the 80s. things were considered a sign of the status of their owner, perfumes became an indicator of prestige, just like a house, clothes, car. At this time, experiments were made in the field of bottles, "ambery" heavy fragrances became fashionable. At the end of the 80s. sea ​​fragrances are created in laboratories.

In the 90s came the fashion for light, natural fragrances. By new technology“Living flowers” ​​it became possible to preserve the aroma of not plucked plants (hoods under a glass cap).

IN last years fruity scents of citrus, currant, pineapple became popular. Modern perfumes combine richness and lightness, in perfect harmony with the natural smell of the skin.

1981-1985s - came the fashion for sexuality and sensuality in perfume, 1986-1988. - classic, femininity, 1988-1990 - symbolism and spirituality, in the 90s. 20th century - naturalness, freshness and environmental friendliness.

The French perfume databank contains 8,000 perfumes from 1880 to 1985, of which 6,000 were invented in France. Experts say that about 2,000 perfume compositions have remained unrecorded.

What flavor is yours? As Christian Dior said, a man can forget how a woman looked, but the smell of her perfume will remain in his memory forever.