The history of perfumery: the contribution of France - Olga Lukyanova Academy of Aromatherapy and Aromapsychology. The best perfume museums in the world

Development and production of exclusive branded perfumes for various kinds business is one of the main directions of our activity. And it should be noted that every year there are more and more companies wishing to have in their brand book.

Under their own brand they produce perfumes fashionable and jewelry houses, automobile concerns, cosmetic companies and even individual public figures - politicians, athletes, top models, show business stars.

The main goal is to draw attention to a particular brand, expand the circle of new customers, and also maintain the loyalty of longtime admirers. And you know, they're great at it.

After all, fragrance establishes much stronger and more lasting bonds between the consumer and the brand than all other marketing techniques combined.

Do you also want to order perfumes under your own brand? Great! We will gladly design them for you.

How we will create a fragrance for your brand

Creating a unique branded fragrance is a long and very exciting process. To begin with, it is important to understand what is the purpose of creating a fragrance brand for your company?

The more fully and clearly you formulate your desires, the better the perfumer will be able to do his job. Just remember this. In the meantime, let's look at the main stages of creating your own fragrance brand.

Acquaintance with the brand, development of the fragrance concept

A brand is not just a company name and logo, it is a certain philosophy and specific values, thanks to which the company gains loyalty to its target audience. A signature fragrance is also part of the brand, which means it must convey to the consumer all the same values. It is they who will be highlighted and described in detail during our first acquaintance with you.

What do you want to tell your client? What values ​​to convey? How does he feel when he inhales your signature scent? What is your idea of ​​your company? What should he end up doing?

Based on the answers to these and other similar questions, we will develop the concept of a future perfume composition. Don't forget to test different flavors and take into account your personal aromatic preferences.

Bottle selection

At this stage, we will choose a bottle for your future perfumes. What do you want - square, rectangular, round, teardrop-shaped, oval, or maybe some completely unusual shape?

What about the volume - 10ml, 30ml, 50ml or maybe 100ml? Finding it difficult to choose? Tell us how you plan to use the fragrance and we will advise you The best decision for each specific situation.

Packaging development

Presentable packaging for branded perfumes is no less important than a beautiful bottle. When developing it, it is necessary to take into account literally everything: the density and quality of the cardboard, the conformity of the design corporate style companies, placement of branding elements, etc. If you already have some ideas about this, great, we will definitely take them into account during the work. If there are no ideas yet, don't worry, our designer will offer them to you.

Creation of fragrance

Now let's move on to creating a signature fragrance for your company. will develop for you several test perfume compositions, from which you will need to choose the one that best matches the concept described at the first stage. As soon as you make your choice, we will launch the fragrance into production.

Launch of perfumes in production

Here we have come to final stage. All preparatory work already done, just need to make right amount perfumes, pour them into bottles and pack them beautifully. That's all. Exclusive perfume ready for your company.

Why you should order a corporate fragrance from us

Talented perfumers with extensive experience, a huge selection of high-quality aromatic extracts, the ability to fulfill a turnkey order - many developers of perfume compositions rank all this among their advantages.

For us, these are the usual standards for the provision of services, which we adhere to from the first day of our work. Therefore, if you are used to receiving quality products and high service "by default", then you will be comfortable with us.

However, we consider something else to be our main advantage. Namely, the availability of our services.

When ordering corporate perfumes for your business from us, you will not have to withdraw large sums of money from circulation, because the minimum order is only 50 bottles. For comparison, with contract manufacturing, you will need to order at least 10,000 bottles, that is, 200 times more.

The history of the appearance of French perfumes dates back to the 11th century. Then the Crusaders brought jasmine and roses from Jerusalem to the south of France. And only in the XII century, with the development of trade relations, perfumery fully came to Europe. Kings and courtiers discover the hygienic and seductive properties of perfumery. Very quickly, Venice becomes the capital of perfumery, the center for processing spices from the East, which then ended up in France.

By the 15th century, Grasse and Paris had become world famous perfume centers. At this time, the etiquette of the French royal court ordered all courtiers to use cosmetics, aromatic oils and perfumes. In the 16th century, two professions - a glove maker and a perfumer - merged, as perfumed gloves came into fashion. Later, fragrance consumption doubled to mask bad odors.

In the 16th century, the Italian Maurizio Frangipani thought of dissolving aromatic substances in pure wine alcohol. This moment can be considered the birth of perfumery, because. it became possible to create an infinite number of combinations. People have learned to store the aromas of natural flowers, herbs, trees, resins and essences of animal origin in crystal bottles.

Revolution in the history of French perfumery

The first revolution in the history of perfumery took place when, after the Great French Revolution the guild of glove makers and perfumers split into two independent groups. In 1608, in Florence, in the monastery of Santa Maria Novella, the first ever perfume factory in the world was founded.

Dominican monks themselves become factory owners. They were patronized and made rich contributions to the monastery by dukes and princes, the Pope himself. In 1709, in Cologne, the Frenchman Jean-Marie Farina, who traded in spices, first put on sale fragrant water, named after the city "Cologne water". In 1709, he settled in Cologne and started a perfume shop, where fragrant water first appeared. When he died in 1766, his sons opened a whole perfume factory. They prepared their water with the highest quality grape spirit imported from Italy.

Fragrant oils were also natural. Behind long years aging in cedar barrels, the particles of alcohol were impregnated with essential oils, which gave a unique bouquet like wine. However, the water from Cologne (eau de Cologne) would have remained unknown to the world if Napoleon had not been seduced by this water and ordered that it be brought from Germany. It was brought to France in the second half of the 18th century and since then has been distributed under the French name au-de-colon.

It was Napoleon who created the first perfumery and cosmetics company in 1804. The emperor was very sensitive to smells, rinsed with cologne every day from head to toe, and wherever he was, ordered to burn pills with his favorite blackcurrant smell. In exile on the island of Saint Helena, when the cologne ran out, the emperor came up with his own recipe for a fragrance with the addition of bergamot and called it toilet water. Since then, this term has become official.

In 1828, Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain opened his first perfume shop on rue Rivoli in Paris. The Guerlain dynasty (five generations of perfumers) creates famous fragrances, including Jicky (1889), Mitsouko (1919), Shalimar (1925)

Then in the 19th century, Jean Guerlain (Guerlain), François Coty (Coty) and Ernest Daltrophe (Caron) - "fathers" modern perfumery- put forward several fundamental theories in the science of creating odors. In the middle of the last century, the production of perfumes ceased to be handicraft. Large perfume companies began to be created.

The next turning point in the history of perfumery falls on the first decade of the 20th century, when couturiers decided to combine modeling and perfumery. In 1911, Paul Poiret was the first to come up with the idea of ​​adding fragrances to clothing lines.

French perfumery locomotive of fashion

The commercial logic of the idea was brought to the end by the great Gabrielle Chanel, who released in 1921 "synthetic" aldehyde perfumes with her own trademark Chanel No. 5. "And before Chanel, other couturiers ... began to try themselves as perfume creators," writes Chanel's biographer Edmond Charles Roux. "But no one before her dared to encroach on the realm of floral scents."

Spirits continue to evolve. Even before Chanel, Francois Coty was the first to combine in compositions natural scents with artificial scents. In 1917, he released "Chupre" (Chypre), which later became the progenitor for a whole family of smells. So-called oriental and amber scents developed, conveying soft, powdery, vanilla and pronounced animal aromas.

In 1929, the Liu perfume, named after a character in Puccini's opera Turandot, enjoyed great success. Liu is the princess's servant who prefers death to betrayal. Thus, the spirits of "Liu" became, as it were, a symbol of an unsolved female soul. Three years later, the perfume "Night Flight" became equally popular, the name of which was inspired by novel of the same name Saint Exupery (1931).

The 1930s - the heyday of "male" scents: fresh, sporty, with notes of leather and tobacco.
The spirits created by Marcel Rocha in 1944 in liberated France became a protest against the war. He named them Femme.

Three years later, Christian Dior, with a feminine "new look" collection with flowing fabrics and flying skirts, complements it with fragrance Miss Dior. Later "Diorissima", "Diorella", "Diorissant" (1956, 1972, 1979) followed.

Three more discoveries took place in the 40s: Bandit Piguet appeared - a perfume with the smell of leather and fur, Vent vert with the smell of grass and leaves, which gave rise to a new direction of "green" perfumes, and the floral fragrance L "air du temps by Nina Ricci.

The number of new spirits has increased dramatically. In the 50s French perfumery reached its peak. The most talented perfumers worked in France. Perfumes for men are on the rise. At the same time, international competition is intensifying with the arrival of perfumes from across the Atlantic. The beginning of the 60s saw a big "boom" of fragrances for men, also at this time there were "bisexual" smells, the success of which was associated with the hippie culture.

Late 60s. US troops invade Vietnam. The spicy oriental theme also permeates the perfume. The amber scent of Guerlain's Chamade and Guy Laroche's Fijiu are in fashion.

In the 70s, fashion came to pret-a-porter collections. This is how new perfumery pret-a-porter de lux, not lost High Quality and sophistication haute couture but made more accessible.

The 80s were remembered for experiments in the field of bottles, there was also a fashion for thick, heavy, "ambery" fragrances. At the end of this decade, completely new bouquets are created in perfume laboratories. These are the so-called fresh ozone and marine motifs, reminiscent of the oceans and algae.

In the 80s, when things became a sign of the high status of their owner, perfumes become the same indicator of prestige, like clothes, a car, a house. In 1985, Dior's Poison, Calvin Klein's American Obsession and Beautiful Estee Lauder appeared. In 1987, Poison perfumes were awarded two prestigious awards at once - the Italian prize of Catherine de Medici and the American one - as the perfume with the most delicate aroma. It is these spirits that hold the absolute record in terms of sales.

In the 90s, the "selfish" smells of the past decade were replaced by natural, lighter fragrances. Marine notes of the late 80s are transformed into the so-called water motifs, evoking associations with lotus and water lilies. The new technology "Living Flowers" (Living-Flower Technology) now allows you to "collect" the smell of unpicked flowers and plants. To do this, they are placed under a glass cap and the aroma is "pulled out" through a special branch.

The last two decades have seen amazing changes in the world of perfume. Smells are born in a certain period of time under a conditional motto. 1981-1985s - sensuality and sexuality. 1986-1988 - femininity and classicism. 1988-1990s - mystery, spirituality and symbolism. 1990s - authenticity to nature, freshness, naturalness and environmental friendliness.

In 1990, the famous Tresor Lancoma appeared. In 1995, Christian Dior released Dolce vita ("Sweet Life").

Fruit scents have become very popular in recent years.
According to experts, the perfumes of the end of this century absorbed the aromas of lemon, orange, currant, pineapple, mango, and at the beginning of the new millennium they did not change.

The French Perfumery Databank has a total of 8,000 perfume names in its catalog for the years 1880-1985, of which 6,000 were created in France and 2,000 in other countries. However, the French claim that about 2,000 more trains were left without attention.

Information about French perfumery compiled on the basis of www.mary.kay.com.ua

The world of perfumery has its own history, which is inextricably linked with the history of all mankind.

The fact that aroma lifts us above everyday reality has long been known. No wonder the priests burned plants, performing sacred rituals, participating in rituals, with the help of smells, thus comprehending the secrets of the universe. In Rome, during antiquity, the smell was given healing power.
The first perfume box that was mentioned in history was the property of King Darius. Egypt, India, Syria and other countries produced musk, amber, saffron, myrrh, rose water etc.
Incense was used by the ancient Romans and Greeks. From Italy, perfume spread throughout Europe. In Dr. Greece used resins, balms, spices for incense, essential oils from flowers by heating them over coals to obtain the desired fragrance. During excavations in that area, tablets were found that describe in detail the composition of aromas.
They were burned in temples, sacrificed to the gods, and fountains were scented with their help. Bags with dry incense were attached to clothes and hair, the body was rubbed with aromatic oils. After the invasion of the barbarians, their use ceased in Western countries. Then the distillation cube was invented, distillation improved, the method for obtaining alcohol was again discovered.
Venice became the capital of perfumery, spices from all countries of the East were processed in this city. french perfume arose in the 11th century, when the crusaders from Jerusalem brought roses and jasmine, and in the 12th century. in Europe learned about the Arab technology of distillation of alcohol. In the XV century. Paris and Grasse became known throughout the world as centers of perfumery. According to the etiquette in the French royal court, all courtiers had to use cosmetics and aroma oils.

Word " perfumery" began to be used in the lexicon from the 1st third of the 16th century, it comes from "fumus" (vapor, smoking).
In the XVI century. Maurizio Frangipani in Italy came up with the idea of ​​dissolving fragrant substances in alcohol, which was a revolution in the world of perfumery. Since then, many aroma combinations have been created, it has become possible to store aromas of herbs, flowers, trees, etc. in glass bottles. perfumes there was a clear division into women's and men's.
The creator of the cologne was the Italian Jean Marie Farina. After his death, his sons created a factory, preparing eau de parfum with high-quality grape spirit, which was given the name au-de-colon. When aged in cedar wood barrels, the alcohol was mixed with essential oils, creating a unique aroma. Water from Cologne (ear de Cologne) would have remained unknown if Napoleon had not been fond of using it (acquired up to 60 bottles every month). When he was on the island of St. Helena, and he ran out of cologne, Napoleon came up with his own recipe for perfume with bergamot, calling it toilet water.
In the second half of the XIV century. liquid perfumes appeared, which were based on alcohol and essential oils. Perfumed gloves became fashionable in the 16th century. Then perfume consumption increased in order to disguise unpleasant odors. In 1608, the first perfume factory in the world began its work in the monastery.
In the 19th century The "fathers" of perfumery F. Coty, Jean Guerlain and E. Daltrof put forward the main theories for creating fragrances. Then the release of perfumes ceased to be considered handicraft, perfume companies appeared.

Perfumery in the 20th century

When Paul Poiret expressed the idea that fragrances could be a good addition to clothing lines, couturiers combined perfumery and modeling. It happened in 1911. F. Coty combined natural and artificial smells in his compositions. In 1917, he released Chypre, from which a whole family of scents originated. Amber and oriental scents began to develop.
Women's and men's fragrances at that time began to acquire clear differences. G. Chanel in 1921 released a perfume with the trademark "Chanel No. 5". In the 1920s, perfumers found a way to create a fragrance "synthetically": Chanel No. 5 began to use aldehydes. In 1929, Liu perfume was very popular, which became a symbol of a woman's soul.
In the 1930s, sports flourished, with hints of tobacco "male" smells.

In 1944, a protest against the war appeared in the form of spirits. They were created by Marcel Rocha, who named them Femme after the woman.

In the 1950s, perfumery in France reached its peak of development, and competition intensified with the arrival of new fragrances from across the ocean.

In the 60s. there was a "boom" male toilet water. In the 70s, the fashion for “pret-a-porter” collections began, the “pret-a-porter de lux” perfumery appeared, which became more accessible. At the end of the 60s. an oriental theme penetrated into the perfume, the ambery smell of Fijiu by Guy Laroche and Guerlain's Chamade was fashionable.

In the 70s, the feminist movement influenced the fashion world: perfumes for women began to borrow ideas from colognes for men. Dior's Eau savage became the prototype of refreshing waters. In 1977, Yves Saint Laurent created the famous Opium.

In the 80s. things were considered a sign of the status of their owner, perfumes became an indicator of prestige, just like a house, clothes, car. At this time, experiments were made in the field of bottles, "ambery" heavy fragrances became fashionable. At the end of the 80s. sea ​​fragrances are created in laboratories.

In the 90s came the fashion for light, natural fragrances. By new technology“Living flowers” ​​it became possible to preserve the aroma of not plucked plants (hoods under a glass cap).

IN last years fruity scents of citrus, currant, pineapple became popular. Modern perfumes combine richness and lightness, in perfect harmony with the natural smell of the skin.

1981-1985s - came the fashion for sexuality and sensuality in perfume, 1986-1988. - classic, femininity, 1988-1990 - symbolism and spirituality, in the 90s. 20th century - naturalness, freshness and environmental friendliness.

The French perfume databank contains 8,000 perfumes from 1880 to 1985, of which 6,000 were invented in France. Experts say that about 2,000 perfume compositions have remained unrecorded.

What flavor is yours? As Christian Dior said, a man can forget how a woman looked, but the smell of her perfume will remain in his memory forever.

But most of them fail to replicate the success of the bestsellers that have gone down in the history of perfumery forever. The names of these legendary creations are on everyone's lips - they will never go out of fashion and will remain loved at all times. In a special review of ELLE - the most relevant perfume masterpieces.

It is simply not permissible, when speaking about this cult perfume, to use trivial formulations like “this is a fragrance that belongs to the floral aldehyde group”. It is impossible to convey in a banal formula the true essence of this legendary fragrance, a dream, the most famous and best-selling perfume in the world, whose face was only stars of the level of Marilyn Monroe, Catherine Deneuve and Nicole Kidman. In the early 1920s, during the triumph of the avant-garde and unsystematic, this perfume became a real sensation, just like Mademoiselle's small black dress: minimalistic, like a laboratory vessel, the bottle contained a perfume that was different from the mono-aromas of rose and lily of the valley that were popular at that time. It was a complex and elegant mix of aldehydes, bergamot, iris, amber, musk and oakmoss. The world went crazy from this composition - contemporaries believed that this is the smell of a woman! The real insanity lasted for many decades, and even today the brand does not try to build a new marketing strategy: Chanel N°5 remains a symbol of elegance and impeccable taste.

"For those who are addicted to YSL" was the slogan of this fragrance in 1977. provocative name "Opium" and a bottle resembling an expensive Japanese tobacco box added fuel to the fire - the world was seriously discussing the fragrance in the context of drug propaganda. And meanwhile, it was a brilliant perfume - the best in history oriental fragrances of all times. East and sensual warmth sounded in an extraordinary spicy harmony of complex facets - bergamot and vanilla, simple and complex, sensual and irrational, reconciled in an incredible way. Already on the first day of the launch, Opium broke all sales records: the perfume was sold out in a matter of days, and the French women really fell into dependence on them. To this day, the fragrance tops lists of the best-selling perfume creations of all time.

Created in the 90s, this perfume not only became a major perfume sensation in a time of trouble in the world of fashion and beauty, but also received the status timeless classics in just a few years. In 1992, minimalism was in fashion in everything - advanced girls advocated androgyny and intellectual unisex. Everyone without exception chose fresh cold smells, reflecting the idea of ​​purity and simplicity. Against all the laws of time Angel demonstrated a completely different idea - exaggerated sexuality, luxury, redundancy and sweetness on the verge of a foul. Its composition became the quintessence of sweetness: instead of a sea breeze, notes of cotton candy, chocolate, praline, patchouli, musk, vanilla sounded ... The world was divided into 2 camps - the fragrance had as many opponents as fans, but it did not leave anyone indifferent. In the 90s, Angel became the absolute leader in sales, and today it has the status of an "eternal" fragrance that will never go out of style.

L"Eau par Kenzo

The world of perfumery was divided into BEFORE and AFTER in 1996, when the fragrance L "Eau par Kenzo Kenzo was released, which for many years became a symbol of conciseness and reference minimalism in perfumery. Belonging to the group of floral water fragrances, it became a reflection of a new understanding of sensuality - rich, but fresh, light, while striking with the idea of ​​limitless depth. Its amazing composition combines notes of green lilac, mandarin, cane nickname and mint, which turn into notes of violet, pepper and water line. At the end, notes of vanilla and cedar sound. Called a beauty masterpiece immediately after its appearance, L "Eau par Kenzo still does not give up its position and is one of the most popular fragrances of all times.

Back in 1947, a fragrance was released that became the perfect embodiment of the Dior brand's ideas about female beauty. Christian Dior called his first perfume Miss Dior, and it was they who accompanied the first Christian Dior fashion show on February 12, 1947 on Avenue Montaigne - the same revolutionary New Look collection was held in a light veil of this tart fragrance. Before Dior, nobody demonstrated the idea of ​​sensuality and exceptional elegance so convincingly. By the way, the classic version does not have much in common with the modern bestseller Miss Dior Cherie of 2005 - then, in 1947, aldehydes, gardenia and galbanum sounded there, and in the middle of the 2000s, a note of caramel popcorn became a recognizable feature. Dior himself commented on his creation: "I created this fragrance, enveloping women with an invisible aura of exquisite femininity."

Two main perfume noses - Christine Nagel and Francis Kurkdzhan - created in 2003 a masterpiece that reflects progressive ideas about female beauty and sexuality. Floral woody-musky fragrance Narciso Rodriguez For Her is an ode to a rare woman. She is sexy and seductive, but not in the conventional sense - the fragrance sounds subtle a fine line between sexual provocation and mature chastity, playfulness and cheeky curiosity. A cocktail of delicate orange blossoms, an alluring flair of ylang-ylang and jasmine, diluted with the bitter taste of Egyptian musk, which gives the perfume depth and power - the smell of Narciso Rodriguez For Her is still considered a sign of good taste.

Breaking into the beauty market relatively recently, Dolce & Gabbana has ambitiously carved a niche for a brand that knows everything about female sexuality. Proper sensuality, classic luxury, immodest seductiveness - a little more, and it would be too much, but the famous duet is genius because they know when to stop in time. The One opens with a juicy mix of lychee, mandarin, bergamot and playful peach wrapped in warmth. sun rays. The composition reveals the exquisite softness of jasmine, delicate lilies of the valley, white lilies and even plums. The One formations of 2006 and its compositional continuations (L "Eau The One, Rose The One and The One Lace Edition) are fragrances on the theme of seduction. Convey the idea of ​​a unique female beauty, which is seductive, but not vulgar - the secret of the stunning success of the fragrance, which has become a cult: he embodied the most cherished dream every woman.

The extraordinary fragrance of Jacques Guerlain Shalimar was the first oriental perfume, the legend of which is as beautiful as it is. As you know, four centuries ago in India, Emperor Shah Jahan was inflamed with passionate love for Princess Mumtaz Mahal. In honor of his beloved, he ordered the gardens of Shalimar to be laid out and the Taj Mahal to be built, which became one of the seven new wonders of the world. This incredible story love inspired Jacques Guerlain, and in 1925 he introduced the first perfume in the history of the East, where he combined such incompatible ingredients as, for example, citrus and sandalwood. Sensual, majestic, complex, Shalimar by Guerlain is definitely not a seasonal fragrance; his magic is relevant at all times.

This fragrance was released in 2001 and immediately became a perfume bestseller. Its recognizable trail has been considered one of the main perfume hits of all time for almost 15 years. Light fragrance with an oriental flair - how is this possible? Lightness and femininity are expressed here in the special aura of the signature elegance of the most famous floral fragrance in the world. The romance and youthfulness of the perfume are complex, with an amazing oriental character - such different ingredients as mandarin and patchouli, rose and jasmine sound in the pyramid.