A message about natural silk. Varieties of silk and silk fabrics

Until now, it is in China that the silk itself is produced. highest quality, which is in great demand all over the world.

Thanks to modern technologies consumers have the opportunity to choose from an unimaginable number of silk fabrics, differing in the quality of raw materials, the type of weave of threads in the fabric, and the processing method finished material and price. The latter can reach several tens of thousands of rubles.

THE MOST FAMOUS TYPES OF NATURAL SILK

CHIFFON

A very thin, delicate, flowing fabric made from crepe-twisted silk fiber yarn, with an uneven surface that feels like sand. Ideal for summer dresses, sundresses, tunics and light blouses.

READ HOW TO WORK WITH SILK CHIFFON AT BURDASTYLE.RU

ATLAS

If this word is translated literally, it will be “smooth.” Silk fabric in satin weave with a glossy front surface. The satin type of weave was invented in China. Smooth and patterned, moire, heavy and other types of satins are known. Satin is used for making scarves, ties, curtains, furniture upholstery, and finishing on expensive church vestments. In addition, wedding dresses are made from satin silks.

VELVET ON SILK BASE

Velvet is a pile fabric with a soft fluffy outer surface. The basis for the pile, which determines the type of velvet, can be silk. In Russia, velvet was first produced at the silk manufactory, back in the 18th century.

SILK LAMBISTE

Thin translucent soft mercerized fabric, plain weave of tightly twisted threads. It has high strength combined with lightness and transparency. The name of the fabric comes from the name of its creator François Baptiste from Cambrai, a French weaver who lived in the 13th century. Silk cambric is an excellent alternative to 100% silk, as it is much cheaper and easier to work with.

GAS

Lightweight Transparent fabric made of silk, distinguished by the peculiarity of its production. Gas comes in plain and diagonal weave.

SMOOTH DYED SILK

Fabric of the highest quality, from the best silkworm cocoons, producing a long, undamaged thread. The quality of the raw materials makes it possible to achieve very tight twisting of the yarn, but at the same time its weight is low.

DUCHES

Very shiny high quality dense material woven from silk fibers.

CREPE

Translated from French “crepe” means rough, wavy. Fabric made from silk threads with a very high (crepe) twist. The most common types: crepe de chine, crepe chiffon, crepe georgette, crepe satin. The crepe drapes well and boasts low creasing.

SILK VEILE

From the French "Voile": cover, veil. A smooth translucent fabric made from silk yarn. The veil can be bleached, dyed and printed, often with embroidery.

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MATLASSE

Natural silk fabric with a jacquard pattern similar to the stitches on batting. According to the manufacturing method and appearance, it resembles a cloque.

MUSLIN

Very thin, light silk fabric of plain weave, similar to cambric. The word “muslin” comes from the name of the city of Mosul in Iraq, where textile manufactories were located in ancient times.

BROCADE

Complexly patterned artistic and decorative fabric with a silk base, containing metal threads with gold, silver or materials imitating them. Gold and silver threads in brocade were made from pure precious metal only in ancient times.

TAFFETA

A glossy silk fabric made from very tightly twisted plain weave threads. Due to this, taffeta is a fairly rigid material, although thin, it holds its shape well.

CHUSCHA

Harsh clothing fabric yellow color, made from a special type of silk - tusor.

LEARN ABOUT TYPES OF KNITTED FABRICS AND THEIR FEATURES FROM OUR MASTER CLASS

All of the listed varieties of silk fabrics are obtained from the cocoon of the silkworm, the raw material for making yarn for weaving. This is completely natural material, unusually soft, delicate and at the same time durable.

The same names are also used to refer to synthetic “silk” fabrics, which at first glance are very similar to real silk. If you are an experienced buyer, you can easily distinguish natural material from artificial one. In addition, fabric stores that value their reputation and value every customer are unlikely to cheat.

But what about a beginner? Or if there is no marking on the fabric? There are a few simple ways, which will help you accurately recognize real silk fabric.

HOW TO DISTINGUISH NATURAL SILK FROM A FAKE

Price is one of the first, but not the main distinguishing features. Natural silk is always more expensive than its synthetic counterparts.
Silk is very pleasant to the touch. Delicate, soft, flows easily and smoothly “flows” from your hands. Artificial is much cooler tactilely and harsher.
Natural silk has unique thermal properties - when it comes into contact with the body, it acquires its temperature.
Unlike synthetic fabrics, it is highly hygroscopic.
The shine of natural silk is natural, muted, with different lighting changes shade, color shimmers. Artificial has a characteristic shine, but does not change color.
Like any other natural fabric, silk wrinkles, but only slightly. Soft folds are formed that are almost invisible and straighten out on their own during wear. The creasing of artificial silk is more pronounced - creases remain, which sometimes even with an iron cannot be smoothed out.
Synthetic silk fabrics have strong flowability at the edges of the cuts.

THE MOST SURE WAY TO DETERMINE THE AUTHENTICITY OF NATURAL SILK

This is to pull a few threads from the fabric and set them on fire. When burned, they should smell like wool, burnt hair.

The ashes from such an experiment easily crumble.

While synthetic material does not burn, but melts, exuding bad smell plastic and forming a hard caked lump. Rayon silk smolders and smells exactly the same as if you set fire to a piece of paper. The ashes from it can be rubbed between your fingers.

Silk is a natural fabric that is not of plant or animal origin. It is obtained from the cocoon of a silkworm caterpillar. But there are also artificial and synthetic types of silk fabrics. All of them are distinguished by their unique shine, smoothness and strength.

History of silk

There are many interesting stories and legends about the origin of the first silk threads. Facts confirming the production of silk in antiquity date the beginning of its production to a period of about 5 thousand years ago. This is evidenced by archaeological excavations in some areas of China, where fragments of silkworm cocoons were found. Inscriptions of Yin hieroglyphs “silk”, “mulberry tree”, “silk cloth” were also discovered on animal bones and turtle shells, which date back to the second millennium BC. And fragments of silk fabric were first found in tombs in southern China.

Therefore, China is considered the birthplace of silk. For a long time, the Chinese kept the technology of silk production secret, and disclosing the secret was punishable by execution. Already in the second century BC. foreign trade was actively developing, called “ Silk Road" The Chinese sent caravans loaded with goods to the countries of Central Asia. At the same time, the secret of silk production came to Korea, then to Japan and by the fourth century AD. Exotic fabrics were also produced in India.

Despite the popularity of silk, the secret of its production reached Europe only in 550. Active production and trade took place in Italy already in the 13th century. And in the 17th century, France became one of the leaders in silk production in Europe.

Currently, silk production is carried out in many countries: India, Japan, Korea, Thailand, Uzbekistan, Brazil and others. But its largest supplier remains China, which accounts for about 50% of total world production.

Production Features

Sericulture is a very precise and delicate production. It consists of several important steps:

Obtaining silkworm cocoons. A female silk moth lays about 500 eggs. The eggs are sorted and tested, leaving only healthy ones. Within 7 days, small silkworms appear, which are fed with mulberry leaves, previously selected by hand and crushed. After a certain time, the caterpillars begin to spin cocoons, into which they completely spin themselves within a few days. Next comes sorting the cocoons by color, shape, size, and so on.
Unwinding of cocoons. To begin with, the pupa is killed so that it does not have time to hatch and damage the cocoon. After this, the cocoon is immersed in boiling water to dissolve the adhesive substance so that its threads can be easily unwound.
Creation of silk threads. Each cocoon produces up to 1000 m of thread. To obtain silk yarn, 5-8 threads are twisted into one fiber. If one thread ends, then the next one is screwed to it. Then you get a very long silk thread. The resulting product is raw silk, which is wound into skeins of yarn. They are then sorted, processed, spun again for better density and uniformity, and then sent to the weaving mill.
Fabric making. In weaving workshops, the yarn is soaked, processed and dyed. Then it is woven into silk fabrics using various weaves.

Types and properties

Natural silk threads are different types. This depends on the country of residence and the conditions in which the caterpillars are grown (natural environment or artificial), as well as on the leaves on which these worms feed (mulberry, oak, castor, etc.).

Of course, the quality and type of thread determines the properties and characteristics of the fabric. And all kinds of weaves, with the help of which different types of fabrics are created, distinguish them by properties, appearance, structure and other parameters.

Here are some popular types of silk fabrics of various weaves:

Toile. For this type of natural silk fabric, plain weave is used. It has a soft shine, good density, and also holds its shape well. Suitable for ties, dresses, linings.
Atlas. This is a silk or semi-silk fabric with a satin weave. It is distinguished by density, smoothness and shine of the front side, softness, and drapes well. Used for sewing various clothes and shoes, furniture upholstery.
. This is a fabric of satin weave, often made from cotton or chemical fiber, as well as silk. It is distinguished by smoothness, silkiness of the front surface, density, and shine. Dresses are made from it Men's shirts etc.
Crepe. This is a group of silk, semi-silk, wool, artificial and synthetic fabrics, which is made from threads with high twist (crepe). It includes: crepe satin, crepe chiffon, crepe de Chine, crepe georgette. It is distinguished by its roughness, slight shine, good drape, and also wrinkles slightly. Used for sewing dresses and suits.
. Silk or cotton fabric, plain weave. It is soft, thin, matte, rough, and drapes well.
Organza. Fabric made of silk, polyester or. It is distinguished by its rigidity, thinness, and transparency.
Gas. The fabric has a special gas weave. It is distinguished by its lightness, transparency, tenderness, holds its shape well, without shine. They are used mainly for decoration, often for wedding dresses.
Wild silk. This is a textured fabric, soft, with a muted shine.
Silk DuPont. Very dense, not soft, but not too hard fabric, with a soft shine. Used for sewing curtains.
Taffeta. This is silk or cotton fabric. It is characterized by plasticity and rigidity. It is used to make curtains, outerwear, and evening dresses.

Features of care

Silk - very delicate fabric, therefore requires careful wearing and careful care. This is what is recommended:

Wash in water no higher than 30 degrees. Silk is essentially a protein, very similar to the human epidermis, and therefore does not tolerate high temperatures.
Use special detergents for silk products. Regular alkaline powder can ruin such a delicate product.
At hand wash Do not wrinkle or rub a silk product excessively - you can ruin the structure of the fabric.
If you wash it in a machine, then only in the “Silk” or “Delicate Wash” mode.
Bleaching is not recommended - the fabric may turn yellow and wear out quickly.
It is not advisable to use fabric softeners.
The last rinse should be done in cold water with the addition of vinegar to get rid of alkaline residues on the fabric.
Do not twist wet fabric and dry it in a drum or in the sun.
Iron the silk from the inside out, setting the “Silk” mode or not higher than 200 degrees.
Do not allow deodorants, perfumes, hairspray or other substances containing alcohol to come into contact with the fabric. It is also best to avoid exposure to sweat.
Silk products can be dry cleaned, but taking into account the characteristics of the fabric.

Despite the capriciousness and whimsicality of care, silk products are extremely popular and especially loved. The reason for this is not so much its properties, but the amazing appearance of the material, which is difficult to confuse with another type of fabric.

Silk is a soft and durable fabric with a pleasant glossy shine. The technology for making the thread is unique - it is obtained by unwinding miniature silkworm cocoons. The secret of making silk was known only in China for a long time. Despite the fact that noble fabric is now made in India, Brazil and other countries of the world, China to this day remains largest producer silks.

Taffeta

main feature(or taffets) – rigidity and dimensional stability. This material is used to sew petticoats and lining. The Persians used the word “taffeta” to describe any woven material. Tightly twisted threads are connected in a secure plain weave.

Character traits:

wear resistance;
durability;
pleasant glossy shine;
dimensional stability;
moisture repellence.

Due to the strength of the fabric, waxed taffeta was used to make balloons and cover the wings and tails of some early aircraft.

Taffeta can be single-colored, printed, crinkled and smooth, as well as with a large woven pattern.

Toile

The toile began to be made in France to replace the expensive printed Indian chintz fabric. The main feature is a color pattern printed on top of a plain canvas. Popular stories:

floral designs;
images of animals;
pastoral scenes.

The weave of the warp and weft threads is plain. The toile is also made from natural silk. Unlike its cotton counterpart, silk is smoother, shiny, delicate and festive. This material was often used to cover walls in living rooms.

Chiffon

Chiffon-silk

Real silk chiffon is an expensive, elite material. Very light fabric, slightly sandy to the touch. The threads for creating chiffon are twisted tightly (as well as for making other light fabrics).

Basic properties:

ease;
color fastness;
strength;
hypoallergenic;
hygroscopicity;
antibacterial.

Among the varieties of chiffon are pearl chiffon, glossy satin chiffon, rough crepe chiffon, jacquard chiffon and iridescent fabric with a chameleon effect.

Chesucha (wild silk)

The fabric consists of a plain weave of fibers of uneven thickness. This material is produced either from the remains of silk yarn and rejected fibers, or from the cocoons not of the silkworm, but of a butterfly called Antheraea mylitta. The material is dense but light. Unprocessed garlic has a yellow-brown color.

Advantages:

affordable price;
strength;
hygroscopicity;
aesthetic matte shine.

Casual clothes and outerwear for any season and climate are sewn from chesucha. The threads contain amino acids that have beneficial effect on the condition of the skin.

Foulard

Foulard shawl fabric

This thin silk material is called shawl fabric. The foulard appeared in the 18th century in Europe. Translated from French means scarf. The weave of the fabric is very simple and reliable - plain. The foulard is painted in various colors and decorated with prints.

Fabric properties:

antibacterial;
hypoallergenic;
hygroscopicity;
drapeability.

Foulard cannot be called a very durable fabric. Curtains, lampshades, neckerchiefs and stoles, as well as accessories (artificial flowers, brooches).

Properties and uses of silk

Having considered different kinds tissues, we can conclude that the main hallmark natural silk – soft noble shine. The fiber has a triangular cross-section and refracts light like a prism. Thanks to this optical effect, silk items look light, elegant, and resemble the smooth surface of water.

Flaws:

required delicate care and careful work with the iron;
silk should be protected from sunlight;
high price.

Sewn from silk a large number of various products:

women's clothing (blouses, skirts, jackets, trousers);
dresses (wedding, evening, cocktail);
men's clothing (shirts, ties);
lingerie (corsets, panties, bras);
home clothes (robes, suits);
bed sheets(pillowcases, sheets, duvet covers, and decorative pillows);
curtains (lambrequins, curtains, drapes);
household textiles (napkins,);
lining for outerwear(coats, jackets, fur coats);
furniture upholstery (chairs, sofas, poufs);
decor and accessories (ribbons, hair clips, scarves).

Interesting fact: silk threads are also used as a surgical suture material for treating wounds and various injuries.

Subtleties of care

Silk is a noble and delicate material. Things should be protected from puffs, animal claws, and exposure to high temperatures. Silk requires care and skill when ironing. To maintain a neat appearance fabrics should adhere to several general rules:

Silk can be washed by hand, in warm water(30 degrees), avoiding sharp twisting.
IN washing machine choose delicate or gentle mode (depending on the model of equipment, they are called differently). Some washing machines equipped with a special “silk” mode. Temperature observed (30 degrees).
The washed fabric should be rinsed in warm water (25 degrees). You can also add vinegar (five tablespoons per ten liters of water) - this technique will help enhance the brightness of the silk.
The material can be wrung out by hand or in a machine, you just need to make sure that the process is gentle.
Silk is dried in the shade outside or in a well-ventilated area - under the influence of ultraviolet radiation the fabric may change color. Things are straightened well or hung on hangers.
The fabric is kept away from heating devices.
Silk is ironed with a slightly heated iron. There are special automatic modes of the same name for ironing.

When buying silk, you should be wary of counterfeits made from viscose or synthetic threads. Artificial fabric shines dimly front side may be uneven. When compressed, no natural silk wrinkles and retains the shape of the creases. If you set fire to synthetic thread, it will smell like plastic, and viscose thread will smell like wood. When set on fire, a silk thread burns very slowly, smells like burnt feathers, and forms a gray ball at the end.

Despite the high cost of the fabric, natural silk clothing is very popular. It is considered prestigious and is suitable for everyday wear, office work, and various special occasions.

Nowadays, there are a great many types of silk, but with such a choice, the main thing is not to make a mistake in its authenticity. How can you tell where the fabric is fake and where it is real?

It won't be difficult. Pull a few threads from the fabric and set them on fire - natural silk does not burn and has the smell of burnt hair. And a baked lump of faded silk fibers can be rubbed in your hands like an ordinary coal. This method of determining authenticity provides almost 100% accuracy.

other methods

One more less exact way Determining the authenticity of natural silk is based on sensations. Take a piece of cloth and apply it to your body or cheek. You should experience only pleasant sensations and no discomfort. Silk has special thermal properties, thanks to which it will immediately reach your body temperature. Due to these properties, silk is often called “second skin”.

It should also be noted that natural silk differs from artificial silk in the structure of its fibers. Silk fibers are softer and more elastic, so fabrics made from natural silk wrinkle less. To test this theory, you need to gather the fabric into folds and squeeze it in your fist. Then, after a few seconds, look at the result of the tissue being wrinkled. Artificial fabric will have clear creases, while natural silk will be barely noticeable.

Buy

Natural silk and products made from it are popular all over the world. For many centuries, silk was the fabric of kings and the rich. You can feel and appreciate all the luxury of natural silk, as well as bed linen made of natural silk, in our online store, or in our offline store at Kronstadtsky Blvd., 7.

Look

Fabric of natural origin. It is obtained from the cocoon of an insect pupa, which is called the “silkworm”. Nowadays there is not only natural, but also rayon, as well as material with the addition of synthetics.

Silk fibers were first produced in China. It was in the Celestial Empire that a special technology for manufacturing this wonderful material was discovered back in the 5th millennium BC. For a long time it was kept in the strictest confidence.

There are a huge number of types of silk fabrics. Their main differences are in their weaving technology, which gives them their unique features and appearance.

Satin is a shiny and dense silk fabric. The surface of the satin is usually smooth, but the material can also be patterned. The satin has a characteristic shine, the front side resembles gloss. This effect is achieved using a special production technology.

The type of weaving of this fabric, like raw silk itself, was invented in China. Together with the technique of producing material from silkworm cocoons, this knowledge came first to Central Asia and then to Europe, where the material became widespread.

Gas (illusion gas, rice gas, marabou gas, crystal gas)

This is a translucent silk fabric, which is achieved by the large space between its threads. The gas is very light and soft. In the manufacture of different types of gas, patterned, smooth and diagonal weaving is used.

Illusion gas is the thinnest and almost transparent material, reminiscent of a light web. Made from the finest silk yarn. Curtains, light scarves, and elements of wedding decorations are made from it.

Gas-rice is light, transparent and slightly rough. The texture is achieved thanks to a special rice weave. Hence the name.

Gas marabou is a rather rigid golden material made from raw silk, made from tightly twisted threads. It was widespread at the beginning of the 18th century. Used for sewing fluffy women's dresses.

Gas crystal has a bright shine. In its production, multi-colored threads are used, causing the surface to shimmer like gems. In France, chic ball gowns were made from it.

Crepe

The name of the material is translated from French as “wavy”, “rough”. When making crepe, the threads are twisted left and right, alternating in a certain way.

This fabric is characterized by an uneven surface. The texture is somewhat similar to sand.

The crepe drapes and lays down perfectly beautiful waves, does not wrinkle. Things made from it last a very long time.

In addition to silk crepe, it can be made of cotton, wool blend, or synthetic. Nowadays it is used mainly for women's dresses.

Thin translucent light fabric, made from . It comes in matte and glossy. Patterns are embroidered on organza and applied original drawings using printing. Suits are often made from it oriental dance and curtains.

Silk-Satin

Satin comes from the word "zaytuni" - the Arabic name for Quanzhou harbor in China, the birthplace of this fabric. Silk-satin has a smooth, dense surface, which is characterized by a beautiful shine. Bed linen, men's shirts, and lining are made from it.

Silk-satin is made from two types of material - 100% cotton sateen and pure silk. The weave density of this fabric is 170–220 threads per 1 square meter. cm.

Important! Linen made from silk-satin is very strong and durable. It can withstand over 200 washes, does not fray, and is cheaper than silk. .

Fabric made from tightly twisted silk and cotton threads. Synthetic fibers are often involved in production. Taffeta is distinguished by its high density and rigidity. Forms brittle folds, which allows you to achieve additional volume and fluffiness.

The toile is distinguished by high density and delicate shine. This fabric holds its shape perfectly and is used as a lining for sewing dresses and ties.

Chiffon

Very thin air material from tightly twisted silk threads. It is transparent, light and flows beautifully. Great for sewing summer blouses and light scarves.

Chesucha (wild silk)

Chesucha is a wild dense silk with an amazing texture. In production, threads of unequal thickness are used, which form such a surface. It is durable, drapes well, but requires delicate care. Chesucha is used in sewing curtains and various clothes.

Foulard is most often used as finishing material. Thin and soft silk fabric from which shawls, scarves and scarves are sewn. In the 20th century, dresses, curtains and lampshades were also made from foulard.

Thick curtain fabric medium degree rigidity, with a pleasant shine. This exclusive fabric consists almost entirely of natural silk. DuPont made in India is especially valued. Wedding and evening dresses, accessories and expensive bed linen.

Silk fabric made using crepe weaving. The front surface of crepe georgette is shiny and rough.

Important! The difference between crepe georgette and other types of crepe is the direction of weaving. During production, the warp and weft threads are twisted in different directions. This makes it dense, but light and elastic.

During the era of balls, fashionable women's toilets were made from crepe georgette. Now this fabric is not so popular. It is used to make draped curtains, as well as some models of skirts, blouses and scarves.

Type of silk crepe fabric - h grainy with crepe twisting technology. It has a moderate shine, is dense and fine. Shawls, suits, and blouses are made from crepe de chine.

Important! Soft flowing folds and draperies - characteristic this material.

Epontage (or pongee) is distinguished between silk and cotton. The material has an uneven spongy surface with a decorative color pattern in the form of cells, stripes, and melange.

Brocade has always been considered the fabric of nobles, royalty and church ministers. This heavy material, made from silk with complex pattern made with metal thread. Previously, the pattern was made with threads from alloys of gold and silver. This explains the high cost of the material.

Nowadays, patterns on brocade are embroidered not only from hard metal threads. Use threads made of linen, silk or cotton.

Muslin is made from high-wrap natural silk. The material is transparent and thin. Used for sewing theatrical costumes and dresses.

Twill(Italian sargia, French serge; from Latin sericus - “silk”) - twill production technology - weaving threads diagonally. Each subsequent thread offsets the intersection by 2 or more other threads. Twill is produced plain-dyed or printed. Used as lining, technical or dress fabric, for sewing workwear.

Excelsior, excelsior

Plain weave silk fabric with a distinct sheen, fine and transparent. In production, untwisted thread is used. Excelsior drapes well. The fabric is quite beautiful. It is used by designers who work with batik, as well as those who create silk flowers and decorative elements.

Charmeuse is very similar to satin. Both have a smooth front surface with a characteristic shine. The difference can be determined by feeling the material: charmeuse is thinner and softer than satin.

Silk cambric contains approximately 3% silk, which gives things shine. Plain weave is used for its production. Batiste flows beautifully and forms elegant folds. Good for long dresses.

Whatever type of silk you choose, the main thing is to avoid synthetic fakes and you can be confident in the quality of the product. Silk does not cause allergies, and clothes made from it proper care will please you for many years.