Scheme sawdust artificial nails almonds. How to make beautiful nail shape at home

Every day the stylist meets with various types nail bed, while he must give the same and symmetrical shape of the artificial nail on all ten fingers. This is almost impossible to do correctly without some guidelines, against which the lines of the sawdust of the nails will be made and the correctness of the form will be checked. A novice master needs to have a clear diagram that describes in stages the implementation of an ideal artificial turf. To control the quality of an artificial nail, 12 main guidelines are distinguished.

LINE 1 - it is mentally drawn along the middle of the phalanges of the finger in the longitudinal direction. The line is a guide for the rest of the lines.

LINE 2 - perpendicular to line 1 (limits the length of the free edge of the nail). The perpendicularity of line 2 is checked by pressing the fingertip with inside free edge of the nail.

LINES 3 and 4 - run perpendicular to line 2. Lines 3 and 4 start from the point where the free edge of the nail comes out of the sinuses, or stress zone (hereinafter referred to as the stress zone), ends at the point of intersection with line 2. The free edge of the nail is given the desired shape (the parallelism of lines 3 and 4 relative to line 1 is checked by pressing the fingertip from the inside of the free edge of the nail).

LINE 5 - runs parallel to the cuticle line. The beginning and end of the line is the right and left parts of the stress zone. The sawdust area is the upper third of the nail bed. Artificial coverage at the cuticle line and the lateral part of the stress zone is nullified. The upper border of the material should be 2 mm from the cuticle line and 1 mm from the lateral parts of the stress zone. The sawdust area is the upper third of the nail bed.

LINES 6 and 7 - run parallel to line 1, through the quarters of line 2 (to the right and left of line 1). After lines 6 and 7 are aligned, they are smoothly reduced to zero to lines 3 and 4. On these lines, the material thickness is left slightly less than 1 mm (stiffening ribs are formed).

POINT 8 is the highest point on the surface. Here should be the maximum thickness of the material (1-2 mm) depending on the convexity nail plate in the longitudinal direction and the length of the free edge of the nail.

If the length of the free edge of the nail does not exceed half the length of the nail bed in the longitudinal direction, then point 8 is on line 1 in the center of the nail plate. If the length of the free edge of the nail is equal to the length of the nail bed in the longitudinal direction, then point 8 is in the center of the lower third of the nail bed.

If the length of the free edge of the nail exceeds the length of the nail bed in the longitudinal direction, then point 8 becomes zone 8, which is on line 1 and covers the lower third of the nail bed and the upper third of the free edge of the nail. The sawdust area between lines 6 and 7 is nullified from point/zone 8 to line 5.

LINE/ZONE 9 - located between lines 6 and 7 parallel to line 1.

Every woman dreams of having long, strong nails with a skillful design adorning her fingers? However, the reality is that only every fifth woman can boast of natural strong nails. The rest are content with "shorties", and even this minimalistic size, given the rhythm of life modern woman is extremely difficult to maintain. The same women of fashion that have in their “combat arsenal” long and strong nails, like stilettos, cannot always boast of their ideal shape.

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Fortunately, the nail industry does not stand still. For more than a decade, manicure masters have been using the gel nail extension procedure on forms, which allows you to create nails of any length and shape that are no different from real ones, except that ... they are stronger. The technique and sequence of gel nail extension on the forms, as well as the essence of the procedure itself - all this is under the eye of the "Perfect Manicure".

Gel nail extension technique on forms

To begin with, let's figure out what the forms for nail extension are. As you know, there are two options for nail extension:

• On forms
• On tips

Tips are ready-made plastic blanks for future nail tips. They are fixed on an adhesive basis, and modeled using a gel.

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Forms for creating nails are a kind of substrate with a small window for the nail plate. In the course of work, a modeling gel is applied to the substrates and natural keratin, which after polymerization will be an artificial free edge of the nail. For the convenience of forming this very free edge, there is a drawing in the form of graph paper on the forms, which allows you to calculate the approximate width and length of the formed nail. The basis itself - the form - is removed after the end of the procedure. That is why the nails created on the basis of the forms look thinner than the nails formed on the tips.

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Forms are of two types:

• Disposable, they are also called soft. They are made from paper or flexible plastic and are used only once. Due to the fact that they have a supple structure, they are easy to fit to any contour of the natural nail. However, they can wrinkle during the build-up process and require an accurate “fit”.

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• Reusable molds are made of hard plastic or metal. Their price is much higher than that of disposable forms, but due to repeated use, they will quickly pay for their cost. In addition, in the process of working with them, such troubles as deformation, the formation of gaps and the flow of gel through them are excluded. The main thing is to choose the forms that are ideally suited to the shape of the natural nail bed, and then you will never have problems with the formation of an artificial nail.

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It is believed that extensions on forms require more filigree work and experience from the master, while tips are easier to use. However, the nails formed on the forms look more natural, and this determines their popularity. Fortunately, the Internet is replete with all sorts of video tutorials on gel nail extensions on forms that show the entire procedure with extreme accuracy. A little practice and diligence, and even such a procedure can be handled at home.

What do you need to build nails on the forms?

To build nails on forms, you should stock up on a special kit, which should include the following tools and components:

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• Antiseptic.
• Express cuticle remover. Can be dispensed with regular bath to soften cuticles.
• Pusher or orange stick to push back cuticles and pterygium.
• Manicure scissors and tweezers for cutting cuticles and side ridges.
• Nail files and buffs of various degrees of abrasiveness for creating, decorating and polishing nail plates, both natural and artificial.
• Brush for removing nail dust.

No antiseptic anywhere! Never miss this important point. Untreated nails, hands and tools are a risk for fungal infection. As an antiseptic, medical alcohol, a solution of chlorhexidine, or special disinfectant sprays for manicure are suitable.

• Dehydrator for degreasing natural keratin and removing the sticky layer from gel polish.
• Primer for adhesion of a natural nail to an artificial material.
• Base and top gel coats.
• Modeling gel for creating an artificial nail.
• Gel brushes.
• Colored or camouflage gel polish to create a design, decorative elements, if this item is provided.
• Lint-free wipes for removing the sticky layer and degreasing the nail plate.
• UF lamp (nail modeling gel polymerizes only under the influence of UF radiation, LED lamp is not suitable for extension. But LED lamp can be used during nail design with gel polishes).
• Forms for nail extension.

Stages of gel nail extension on forms

In order to better understand the process technology, consider the procedure for gel nail extension on forms in stages:

Stage 1. Treatment of fingers and nails with an antiseptic.

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Stage 2. Hygienic manicure. Cuticle trimming and pterygium removal.

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Stage 3. Sawing the free edge of the nail plate. Removing gloss from the surface of the nail with a buff.

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It is necessary to leave the free edge of the nail by 0.5 mm in order to pry under it and fix the shape.

Stage 4. Removing nail dust with a brush.

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Stage 5 Application of a dehydrator to degrease the nail plate.

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Stage 6 Application of the adhesive base (primer).

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Stage 7. Coating with a base gel of a natural plate (the layer must be very thin). Drying nails in a UV lamp for at least 2 - 3 minutes (depending on the lamp power.)

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Stage 8. Setting the mold using a metal plate and tubes to tighten the "arch".

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This is one of the most difficult stages, requiring some skill. After all, the whole result depends on how the form for nail extension is properly dressed.

How to use forms for nail extension? If the forms have a solid base, then there should be no problems, the main thing is to choose right size and carefully fit it under the nail. If the shape is soft, then first, with the help of nail scissors, you should correct the window to the size of the subungual arch. It is important that there are no gaps, otherwise the gel will leak into the holes formed and as it grows, this defect will be noticeable.

After fixing the form, you should make sure that it has a beautiful side and end bend. A shape without a curve will look like a trampoline, and a shape that is too steep will create beak-shaped nails.

remember, that step-by-step instruction nail extension on forms requires that the work be carried out according to the scheme - 4 nails of one hand, then 4 nails of the other hand and nails thumbs both hands. This is necessary so that the gel does not drip from the nails of the thumbs during operation, which, as a rule, are always at an angle with respect to other fingers. Beginning masters should work on each finger individually.

On a note!

How to build nails on forms if they are very soft? It's very simple - glue two forms together. So they will be stronger and more stable.

Stage 9 Formation of an artificial nail with a modeling gel.

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At this stage, you should strictly adhere to the rules of how to build gel nails on forms. The nail is conditionally divided into 3 zones:

• Cuticle zone (1/3 of the natural nail closer to its base).
• Stress zone (the remaining 2/3 of the natural nail plate is the junction of the nail with the form and 1/3 of the form. This area bears the greatest load and hence the name).
• The free edge of the nail, or rather the rest of the shape.

The technology of gel nail extension on forms at the modeling stage is as follows. Apply to the cuticle area with a brush thin layer gel, which thickens slightly as it approaches the stress zone. The stress zone should be "reinforced" with a small gel thickening, especially at the junction of the natural nail and the form - here the modeling gel is applied very thickly. The future free edge of the nail is formed in a thin layer.

After applying the modeling gel, the nails are dried in a UF lamp for at least 2-3 minutes.

10 stage. Removal of a sticky layer from an artificial nail and removal of a form. The resulting nail should be sanded in order to give it a smooth surface. At the same stage, the shape of the free edge of the nail is corrected.

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On a note!

Do not be surprised by the removal of the sticky layer from the nail, while the color coating has not yet been applied. If under normal gel manicure this is contraindicated, since the dispersion is removed, which ensures the adhesion of the layers, then when building nails on forms, as a rule, the dispersion is removed in order to decorate the artificial plate with a nail file. It's just that the dispersion will interfere with the adjustment due to sticking to the nail file. Do not be afraid for the adhesion of subsequent layers with an artificial nail. A well sanded surface will provide the necessary grip.

11 stage. Application of camouflage gel or colored gel polish. Camouflage or color gel is applied in 2-3 layers, depending on the density of the pigment. Each layer is dried in a UV lamp.

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12 stage. Decoration and decoration of nails, if required by the design. If it is not provided, then this step is skipped.

13 stage. Topcoat application and drying in a UV lamp. It is better to dry the top coat in the lamp twice as long as the previous layers for better polymerization.

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14 stage. Removing the sticky layer.

15 stage. Moisturizing the cuticles with oil or cream, massage of the hands, cuticles and periungual ridges.

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This is a step-by-step instruction for gel nail extension on forms. You may find slightly different variations with more or fewer steps (depending on the details of the process), but in any case, the basics will be the same.

Gel nail extension on forms: video instruction

No matter how detailed and detailed the instruction is, it is best to highlight the essence of the process with a video on building nails on forms. Naturally, each master uses his own technology and his secrets, we bring to your attention two video tutorials on how to build nails on gel forms, which, in our opinion, show the process in the most accessible form, understandable even for a beginner.
Lesson #1

Lesson #2

As you can see, each master uses his own developments and tricks in gel nail extension on forms. step by step technology somewhat different, but only in a number of aspects. The main basic "steps" - preparing the nail, setting the form, applying the modeling gel - are unshakable. Perhaps in the future, as you gain experience and skill, you will find your own perfect solution, more efficient and convenient. In any case, try, learn and you will succeed.

Gel nail extension on forms

Step 1 .

Basic nail preparation:

• - We treat our hands with an antiseptic or wash warm water with soap.
• - With an orange stick, or a pusher, gently push back the cuticles, remove the pterygium from the nail (the skin that has grown on the nail plate).

Attention! The process of removing pterygium should be approached with the greatest responsibility! It is this skin, not carefully removed, that is the source of 80% of the gel detachments after modeling.

• - We file the free edge of the nail to one and a half to two millimeters.
• - We shoot natural shine from nails with a soft polishing file.
• - When building on forms, we need to leave a small free edge.
• - When filing the free edge, hold the file vertically at an angle to the palm. Movement should be directed from top to bottom, and in no case from side to side. This leads to brittleness and delamination of the nails. When removing the gloss, we make movements from the root to the free edge in the direction of nail growth. So they are less injured. The file is also located vertically along the nail. In no case do we saw, but with light movements we remove the top shine. This is quite enough. Pay special attention to the areas near the cuticle.
• Brush off the dust carefully.
• - Apply the primer without touching the cuticle. This will prevent peeling artificial nails. Be sure to let the primer dry. If you don't dry it out, you'll get the opposite effect. The nails will begin to peel off.

Attention! Guided by the manufacturer's instructions, we look at how to dry this primer correctly: in air, or under a UV lamp.

Apply Bonder in a thin layer on the nail without touching the cuticle. The bonder layer should be thin so as not to thicken the nail and exclude the possibility of peeling and chipping. Dry the bonder under a UV lamp.

Step 2 .

Simulation of artificial nails:

Putting on forms. The traditional sequence of work when building nails is as follows: 4 fingers of the left hand, 4 fingers right hand, thumbs both hands. It is quite difficult to put on uniforms correctly. First, some of them are not hard enough. In order to fix this, the masters use the following approaches: you can stick the middle of the form that you took out on the inside. Then the form will become stronger. You can also mold two molds together by placing one on top of the other. Some craftsmen use independent linings for molds cut from tin tubes. They are soft enough to take the necessary bend, and at the same time allow you to fix the shape firmly. To put on the uniform correctly, take it large and index fingers, press, giving it the shape of an arch of the nail. We put on the finger, slipping under the free edge of the nail. Trying to fix it in this position, we glue it around the finger. In order for the form to sit perfectly, its curve must exactly match the smile line of your natural nail. Correct it with nail scissors. There should not be the slightest gap between the nail and the form - otherwise the material will clog there, which will look unaesthetic, and in addition, it can upset the balance of the nail. If you are working with Teflon molds, just put it on your finger, also bringing it under the free edge of the nail, and fix it with wire. The most difficult thing is to make sure that the shape goes under the corners of the free edge and repeats your nail arch. Also, be sure to take a look at the shape on the side. It should not be pulled up, or bent down too much, otherwise you will end up with either springboard or beak-shaped nails. We apply the first base layer of the gel. Decide in advance on future form free edge. The gel is applied in a thin layer. Apply gently, holding your finger at an angle of 45 degrees downwards, so that the gel does not flow under the cuticle. Do not dry the gel if it gets on the skin. Soon, when the nail begins to grow, an air bubble will form there and the gel will quickly peel off. On the form, we try to initially set the desired free edge. Apply the base coat carefully coloring movements as if we were painting our nails with varnish. Do not forget that the layer must be very thin. We retreat from the cuticle by 0.5-1 mm. This must be done without fail, otherwise it will not be possible to properly file the gel later. When switching to the form, we work as follows: a small drop of gel is taken on the brush and placed on the form with the brush. Then gently stretch this drop with a brush to give the desired shape. Dry the gel under the lamp. We turn on the lamp, place our hand there so that all nails are evenly illuminated, dry for at least 3 minutes. We apply a construction layer. We work in the same way as when applying the gel to the form. A drop is drawn onto the brush, which is stretched over the surface of the nail. Here it is necessary to say about the sculptural zones of the nail. Because it is when applying the second (constructive) layer that we form sculptural zones. There are three in total. This is the zone near the cuticle and lateral ridges, the stress zone and the free edge. In order for the artificial nail to be as natural as possible, and most importantly, durable and safe, the most a large number of material should fall on the stress zone. Because it is she who is the most vulnerable place in case of breakage of the nail. Therefore, if you make the nail flat, at the most critical moments it will break right here. When viewed from the side of the nail, its arch should resemble the shape of a crescent with the widest point falling on the stress zone. But remember that the material should gradually fade away to the cuticle and side ridges. So, if you look at the nail from the front, we will see the same semicircle. Therefore, when forming the constructive layer, we lay out three main drops of gel: a small one in the area near the cuticle, a large one in the stress zone and a medium one on the free edge (depending on the length of the free edge, it can be laid out more material). Drops are stretched with a brush so that the material disappears towards the edges, and maximum thickness remains in the middle. Attention! You can not lay out a very thick layer of gel at once. This will lead to a violation of the technology (the gel may not harden inside) and may even lead to a burn, because. when drying, a thick layer of gel is very hot. Therefore, when working on large nails that require a rather thick constructive layer, we apply it in several (2-3) stages! The stress zone is the highest point of the nail, which is created specifically in the artificial nail so that it is durable and does not break. And so that the load was in right place nail bed. A stress zone in the wrong place can damage the nail plate. The first drawing (A) shows correct position highest point. The material is laid out evenly and the center of gravity is not shifted. In figure B, the center of gravity is not on the stress zone. Such a laying out of the material can lead to breakage of the nail and damage to the nail plate, because. the pressure is on the nail very close to its root. Figure B shows the displacement of the highest point close to the tip, which again can lead to breakage of the nail and its deformation. This position of the highest point happens before the correction. Figure D shows a nail with a large free edge, so the stress zone is shifted closer to the smile line so that the center of gravity is in the right place. Figure E, on the contrary, shows an offset further from the edge, since the nail is very short. The architecture of the nail is designed to protect it, make it stronger, more flexible. Too much material will not make it stronger. When correcting, it is necessary to remove excess material, thickness, and then re-architecture in accordance with all the rules. When removing the top layer, you need to be very careful about the border between the natural nail and the artificial material, so as not to damage natural nail, which is especially gentle in this zone. Dry the gel under the lamp. We turn on the lamp, place our hand there so that all nails are evenly illuminated, dry for at least 3 minutes. (If you suddenly feel that the nails are heating up, immediately remove your hand from the lamp, take a break for about 10 seconds and only then continue drying). Delete sticky layer. We wipe the nails with a napkin dipped in a degreaser or degreaser. Carefully remove the forms from the fingers, starting to pull them from under the free edge towards the palm. When the form has come unstuck from the nail, we remove it from the finger in a free manner. If suddenly the gel begins to bend along with the form - back under the lamp. Not dried up. We file the gel. In order for the nail to take on an ideal shape, it must be filed before finishing. Sawdust is also required to comply with the technology, so that detachments do not occur during wearing. When filing, it is necessary to finally form the longitudinal and transverse arches of the nail. They should be even, in the shape of a crescent. Files 100-180 grit are suitable for filing. Shape the free edge with a 100 grit file. The main task is sawdust of the material at the cuticle and side ridges. If you have laid out the material correctly, there should not be any particular difficulties. Remember that the material should disappear in these places, smoothly turning into a natural nail. Pay attention to the free edge. To the very tip, the material should become quite thin, so that when viewed from the front, the thickness, and even more so the “chopping off” of the free edge, is not visible. After the end of the sawdust, we go through all the nails with a brush to shake off the dust, and then we additionally process them with a buff. We apply the last finishing thin layer that gives shine. The final layer is applied very thinly, with smearing movements, as when painting nails with varnish. Our task is to "seal" the sawn edges. Where we retreated from the cuticle and lateral ridges by 0.5-1 mm, now we are trying to move a little further. Literally 0.25 mm. So, to block the place where the material is superimposed on the natural nail. After the sawdust, in no case should we have any steps left. Just a smooth, smooth transition. Dry the gel under the lamp. We turn on the lamp, place our hand there so that all nails are evenly illuminated, dry for at least 3 minutes. We remove the sticky layer with a degreaser, if the manufacturer's finish gel does not provide for solidification without a sticky layer. Gently rub the oil into the cuticles.

The priority task of the nail modeling master is the creation of flawless artificial nails. Often, masters have their own, subjective vision of the shape of the nails. The correct technique for creating a nail shape is based on knowledge of anatomy, geometry, and aesthetics. In order to get the same shape of nails on all ten fingers, it is necessary to know certain guidelines, the use of which will ensure the correct filing and shaping of the nails. In total, there are 12 main guidelines that allow you to control the quality of the shape of the artificial nail.

Line 1 mentally held in the middle of the phalanges of the finger in the longitudinal direction.
This line will be the guide for the rest of the lines.

Line 2 mentally drawn perpendicular to line 1, limiting the length of the free edge of the nail. In order to check the perpendicularity of line 1, you need to press the fingertip from the inside of the free edge of the nail.

Lines 3 and 4 are drawn perpendicular to line 2. They originate from the left and right nail ingrowths and end at the point of their intersection with line 2 (in order to check the parallelism of lines 3 and 4, you need to press the fingertip from the inside of the free edge of the nail). The free edge of the nail is given a given shape. Make sure lines 3 and 4 are mirror image each other with respect to line 1.

Line 5 It must be drawn parallel to the cuticle line. The right and left nail ingrowths are the beginning and end of the line. The sawdust surface is the upper third of the nail. edge artificial material at the cuticle line and nail ingrowths are nullified. The upper border of the coating should be at a distance of 0.5 mm from the cuticle and nail ingrowths.

Lines 6 and 7 are drawn through the quarters of line 2 and should be parallel to line 1. After that, lines 6 and 7 are smoothly reduced to lines 3 and 4. To form stiffeners, the material thickness on lines 3 and 4 is left 0.5 mm.

Point/Zone 8 is the highest point on the surface. At this point - the greatest thickness of the material (1-2 mm). The thickness of the material depends on the length of the free edge of the nail. In the case when the length of the free edge of the nail is less than half the length of the nail bed, point 8 is located in the center of the nail on line 1.

In the case when the length of the free edge of the nail is equal to the length of the nail bed, point 8 is located in the center of the lower third of the nail. In the case when the length of the free edge of the nail is greater than the length of the nail bed, point 8 becomes zone 8, is located on line 1, covers the lower third of the nail bed and the upper third of the free edge of the nail. The sawdust zone, which is located between lines 6 and 7, is reduced from point 8 to line 5.

Line/Zone 9 is located parallel to line 1 between lines 6 and 7. Zone 9 originates at point 8 and ends at the intersection with line 2. To form a stiffener, the material thickness on line 2 is left at least 0.5 mm.

Line 10 is carried out between lines 3 and 4 from the side of the free edge of the nail. The intersection points of lines 3 and 4 with line 10 must be on the same level.