Sewing a blouse without a pattern. Blouse with one-piece sleeves. Step by step: how to sew a short sleeve blouse

Hello. tops are popular right now one-piece sleeve. I also like this option, so I sewed a similar knitted longsleeve.

The fabric is satin stitch with the addition of lycra.

I have one length and therefore the sleeve will be cut off. In order for all the details to fit into the cut, I do a little calculation.

I will arrange the details like this.

96 (full girth of the top) + 24 (sleeve below) + 36 (sleeve above) = 156 cm.

Fabric width 180 cm. 180 - 156 = 24 cm.

24 / 4 = 6 cm. I can extend the shoulder by 6 cm.

I do the construction of the back immediately on the fabric. I immediately increase the width of the neck according to the model (instead of 7.5 I make 9 cm).

I cut out, do not forget to make allowances. I will connect on an overlock, so 7 mm allowances are enough for me.

I apply the back to the fabric folded in half, make changes, as described in. I make the neck depth 5 cm, because the neckline is conceived as a “boat”.

I cut out the shelf.

I measure the length of the shoulder on the shelf: 22 cm.

The total length of the shoulder and sleeve is 63 cm. 63 - 22 \u003d 41 cm. This is the length of the sleeve.

Sleeve length 41 cm plus allowances. From the bottom I make a double hem, so I give an allowance of 3 cm.

I draw sleeves. From above I have 36/2 = 18 cm, from below 24/2 = 12 cm.

All the details are cut out, I collect the top and try it on.

As a result, my width turned out to be too large, I moved the side line.

Sewing

I connect the shoulder sections

I sew on the sleeves

In one pass, I connect the seam of the sleeve and the side.

Neck processing

I'm cracking necks

From above I prick the fabric, also folded in half and cut out the top of the neck on it, mark where the shoulder seam passes. This will be my neckline details.

Turning width 3 - 4 cm in ready-made. Overall width 3 - 4 cm plus allowance (I have 7 mm).

I connect the details of the facing, overcast the free edge.

I poke face to face.

I twist, iron, pin up.

I lay a line so that the facing does not come out.

I overcast the bottom, tuck it 2-3 cm and lay a line.

Womens Blouse - perfect clothes not only for the office, but also for shopping, walking, meeting with friends. And such a blouse in your wardrobe will be a real find! Combine it with jeans, skirts and shorts, and create your own unique looks!

Women's blouse with chest tuck (pattern-base)

To build a pattern for a women's blouse (size 48) with a chest tuck (see Fig. 2 below), the following measurements must be taken.
Back length to waist 38 cm
Shoulder length 13cm
Neck circumference 18 cm
Semicircumference above bust 44 cm
Chest circumference 48 cm
Semicircumference of hips 50 cm
Sleeve length 58 cm
Wrist circumference 9 cm

Building a pattern

Fig.1. How to sew women's blouse- pattern

Draw rectangle ABCD.

Blouse width. The lines of the rectangle AB and DC are equal to 53 centimeters (the semicircle of the chest according to the measurement plus 5 cm for all sizes): 48 + 5 = 53

Blouse length. The lines of the rectangle AD and DC are 56 cm (length of the back to the waist according to the measurements plus 18 cm for all sizes): 38 + 18 = 56.

Armhole depth. From point A, lay 20 cm down and put point G (1/3 of the semicircle of the chest according to the measure plus 4 cm for all sizes): 48: 3 + 4 \u003d 20.
From point G, a straight line is drawn to the right until it intersects with the line BC; the point of intersection is denoted by the letter G1.

Waistline. From point A, 38 centimeters are laid down (the length of the back to the waist according to the measure) and point T is set. From point T, a straight line is drawn to the right until it intersects with the BC line and the intersection point is denoted by the letter T1.

Building a pattern grid

Back width. From point G, lay 19 centimeters to the right and put point G2 (1/3 of the semicircle of the chest by measure plus 3 centimeters for all sizes): 48: 3 + 3 = 19 cm. intersections are marked with the letter P.

Armhole width. From the point G2 to the right lay 12 centimeters and put the point G3 (1/4 of the semicircle of the chest according to the measure): 48:4 = 12.

Shelf lift. From the point G1, 24.5 centimeters are laid upwards and the point W is set (1/2 of the semicircle of the chest according to the measure plus 0.5 centimeters for all sizes): 48: 2 + 0.5 \u003d 24.5 cm. 24.5 centimeters and put a point P1, and the intersection with the line AB is denoted by the letter P2. Points P1 and W are connected.

Side line. Divide in half from the G2G3 point and lower the perpendicular down from the division point to the intersection with the DC line, the intersection point is denoted by the letter H, and the intersection with the TT1 line by the letter T2. Auxiliary points of the shoulder and armholes. Lines PG2 and P2G3 are divided into 4 equal parts.

Descent of the armhole. PG2 and P2G3 lengthen down by 1 centimeter. Dots 1 connect.

Building a back pattern

Neckline. From point A, 6.5 centimeters are laid to the right (1/3 of the semicircle of the neck according to the measure, plus 0.5 centimeters for all sizes): 18: 3 + 0.5 = 6.5.
From point 6.5 up lay 1.5 centimeters, from point 1.5 up - 1 centimeter. Points A and 1 are connected by a concave line.

Shoulder slope. From point P down lay 2 centimeters.

Shoulder line. From point 1.5 (neck) through point 2 (shoulder slope) draw a shoulder line 14 centimeters long (shoulder length by measure plus 1 centimeter of fit for all sizes): 13 + 1 = 14 cm.

Armhole line. From point 1, dividing the angle in half, lay 3 centimeters. The armhole line is drawn from point 14, through the middle point of division of the line PG2, points 3 and G4.

Side seam. From the point T2 to the left lay 2 centimeters. The side seam is carried out through points G4, 2 to point H.

Building a front pattern

Neckline. From the point W to the left lay 6.5 cm and put the point W1 (1/3 of the semicircle of the neck according to the measure plus 0.5 centimeters for all sizes): 18: 3 + 0.5 \u003d 6.5 cm. From the point W down lay 7 .5 centimeters (1/3 of the semicircle of the neck according to the measure plus 1.5 centimeters for all sizes): 18: 3 + 1.5 \u003d 7.5 cm. Ш through the division point of the dotted line lay 6.5 cm.
Points Ш1, 6.5 and 7.5 are connected by a concave line.

Shoulder length from neckline to chest tuck. From the point W1, 4 centimeters are laid to the left and then down - 1 centimeter. Points Ш1 and 1 connect. From point G1, 9.5 centimeters are laid to the left (neckline plus shoulder length from neckline to chest tuck minus 1 centimeter): 6.5 + 4-1 \u003d 9.5 cm. Points 1 and 9.5 are connected.

Chest tuck. The right tuck line from point 1 to point 9.5 is divided in half and 4 centimeters are laid off from the division point to the left (semicircle of the chest according to the measurement minus the semicircle above the chest according to the measurement): 48-44 \u003d 4 cm. The left tuck line is drawn from point 9 ,5 through point 4 with a length equal to the right line of the tuck, and put the point P3.

Shoulder length from chest tuck to armhole. Point P3 is connected by a dotted line with the upper division point of the line PG2 (back). Then, from the point P3 along the dotted line, 9 centimeters are laid to the left (shoulder length according to the measure minus 4 cm shoulder length from the neckline to the chest tuck): 13-4 \u003d 9 cm. Point 9 is connected by a dotted line with the lower division point of the line P2G3. Then 2 centimeters are laid down from point 9 and connected to point P3.

Armhole line. dotted line from point 2 to the lower division point of the P2G3 line, they are divided in half and 1 centimeter is laid off from the division point to the right. Then from point 1, dividing the angle in half, set aside 2 centimeters. The armhole line is drawn from point 2 (shoulder) through point 1, the lower point of dividing the line P2G3, point 2 and, touching the armhole descent line, to point G4.

Side seam. From point T2 to the right lay 2 centimeters. The side seam is carried out through points G4, 2 to point H.

Waistline shaping. From point T1, 2 centimeters are laid down and connected to point 2 (side line).

Formation of the hip line. From point C, the line BC is extended down by 2 centimeters and point H1 is set. Points H and H1 are connected.

Clasp addition. From points 7.5 (neck) and C, 1.5 cm are laid to the right. Points 1.5 are connected by a straight line (allowance for the bar), then an allowance is added for processing the bar 3 cm wide, extending it up by 1 cm.

The length of the blouse from the waist to the bottom is 18 cm. When cutting, the length of the blouse from the waist line to the bottom can be taken as desired.

It is important! If the semicircle of the hips turns out to be larger than according to the pattern drawing, then 2/3 of the difference between the semicircle of the hips according to the measure (instead of with an increase) and the pattern drawing is added to the front and 1/3 to the back.

In addition to the blouse pattern, you need to build and and

Hello my dear blog readers. I haven’t written complex articles for a long time, and in my opinion, today is exactly like that. We'll consider building a blouse pattern, in fact, if you look, then tailoring blouses and shirts has a lot general principles They just need to be understood once. And if you build a blouse pattern for yourself once, then you can then adjust it a little and sew a huge variety of models of blouses, shirts and tunics.

Exactly the same principle was when we built a pattern for the base of the dress, so that later we can sew any model for ourselves with a perfect fit on your figure.

Today we will consider building and modeling such a blouse, with a stand-up collar, turning into a bow:

This model is built on a pattern basis without tucks, free models are cut out on its basis, such as men's shirts etc.

I will now describe step by step the construction of the pattern, your task is to substitute your measurements.

I immediately give an increase, which I will add to my measurements, the increase is the same for everyone.

Additions:

Pb = 2.5 cm (if we tuck in the blouse) and 3.5 cm (if the blouse is worn over the skirt)

Shoulder extension = 0.5cm

T 1 T 11 - lowering the waist line in front = 0.5 cm

Item Length = Hips

Blouse fabric. How to decide?

For this blouse, thin cotton, cambric, poplin, chiffon is suitable.

Finishing fabric: satin, satin.

Building a base - grids

The grid is a designation of the location of the main horizontals in the drawing - the lines of the chest, waist, hips, the width of the grid = the girth of your body (more precisely, the upper body).

For the drawing, we take graph paper. Place A in the top left corner.

AT Down = Dts + 1 = 38 + 1 = 39
AG down \u003d Vprz + Pspr \u003d 20 + 3 \u003d 23
TB Down = Dlb = 20
TT 'right \u003d 1.5 (this is a constant value, set aside for the fit of the model on the back), we draw a straight line through point A and T '. We put points G ', B '.
G'G1 right we set aside the width of the grid \u003d Cr3 + Pg \u003d 45.5 + 5 \u003d 50.5
G'G4 to the right - side seam \u003d G'G1 divided by 2 \u003d 25.25
Armhole width \u003d 0.25 times (Cr3 + Pg) + 1 \u003d 0.25 times (45.5 + 5) + 1 \u003d 13.6. From the point G4 to the right and to the left, set aside half the width of the armhole (half of 13.6) = 6.8 cm

Back construction

AA2 right \u003d 0.33 times Csh + Pshgs \u003d (0.33 times 18) + 1 \u003d 7
A2A21 down = 0.33 times AA2 + Pvts = 0.33 times 7 + 0.2 = 2.53
A2 put aside 9 to the right. This is a constant value for everyone. Point 9
From point 9 we set aside 2 cm down (this is also a constant value). We carry out the slope of the shoulder.
A2P1 down the slope to the right \u003d Shp + shoulder lengthening \u003d 13 + 0.5 \u003d 13.5. Point P1 should go beyond the armhole line by at least 0.5 cm. If the shoulder width is small (like mine = 11), then add the missing length to the shoulder width.
We build an armhole: 1) Point P3 \u003d G2P is divided by 3 + 2 cm (constant value) up; 2) Bisector from point G2 = 0.2 times G2G3 + 0.5 cm (constant value) = 0.2 times 13.6 + 0.5 = 3.2. We draw the line of the armhole of the back through these points.

Building the front

T1T11 down = 0.5 cm = B1B11 down
T11A11 up \u003d Dtp - 1 \u003d 44.5 - 1 \u003d 43.5
A11A3 left = AA2 (take distance from backrest drawing) = 7
A11A4 down = AA2 + 1 = 8
From point A3 to the left 9 cm. From point 9 we lay down 3 cm. We draw a straight line through points A3 and 3 - the slope of the shoulder.
A3P5 set aside by the slope of the shoulder = A2P1
Front armhole: 1) Point P4 = draw a perpendicular to the straight line from point G3;) Find point P6. \u003d G3P4 divided by 3. Point P6 is on the bottom 1/3 .; 3) Bisector from the corner = 0.2 times G2G3 = 3.2 cm

Hip Width

G'G4 \u003d B'B21 set aside on the horizontal line of the hips
We calculate the lack of width along the hip line: (Sb + Pb) - G'G1 (mesh width) \u003d (48 + 2.5) - 49 \u003d 1.5 cm - this is the lack of width along the hips. So the width must be added, otherwise the blouse on the hips will be small. We divide this difference by 2 (in my case it is 0.75 cm each) and set aside 0.75 cm from points B21 to the right and B2 to the left. We put points B "2 and B" 21.
we connect the point G4 with B "21
we then connect the point G4 with B "2.
We draw the bottom line along the back perpendicular to the retraction line (AB ')
We equalize the side sections of the blouse: G4B "21 \u003d G4B" 2
We draw a bottom line along the front of the blouse, but since point B11 is 0.5 cm lower than the level, we draw a bottom line under the pattern.

On this, the basis for constructing a blouse is over. Next, we will do the modeling of a given model, but other models of blouses can also be built on this basis.
Blouse modeling
Now we will analyze the main points of changing the drawing in order to get exactly the model as in the photo.
Button placket
We cut off from the drawing of the product parallel to the center line in front of half the desired width of the bar. My plank width is 3cm.
B11B’11 left = 1.5 cm
draw a vertical through point B'11 upwards
put point A41

We draw a bar 3 cm wide and long = B’11A41 next to the drawing
IMPORTANT! if the bar is stitched, then the loops on it can only be vertical, if the bar is one-piece, then the loops can be horizontal

We place the location of the loops on the bar:
The first loop is 1.5 cm lower upper cut(this is the standard). Then we determine the number of buttons, determine the distance between the loops and mark top edges loops.
In this case, the distance between the last loop and the bottom line should be greater than the distance between the loops.
Buttonhole length = button diameter +3 mm
Stand collar with ties
We mark on the drawing the control point of stitching the collar into the neck: from point A41 we set aside 2 cm to the left. We set the control point.
To determine the length of the collar, measure the length of the neck.
Collar length = (Back neck length + Front neck length to the reference point + 50 cm for ties) x 2 = (7.8 + 9.5 + 50) x 2 = 140
Collar width desired. I took 6 cm.
At the ends, the collar has an extension - 9 cm. We expand the collar to the desired width at the ends.
The collar is a straight strip of fabric, cut along the transverse thread, we do not glue it with doubler.
TURNS
We decorate the facing of the blouse on the details of the front and back in the neck area. The width of the facings is 4 cm.
Reducing shoulder length
It is necessary to reduce the length of the shoulder along the front and back to measure Shp + 1 cm = minimum lengthening of the shoulder so that the sleeve visually looks in its place. Cut off excess to points P3 and P6. In the drawing, this area is shaded on the shoulders.
Fabric layout:
Flap pockets
Modeling valves. Front decor.
On the details of the front, we mark the level of stitching of the valve - 4 cm above the level of the armhole. From the point G1 we set aside 4 cm upwards and draw a horizontal line.
From the plank line on this horizontal line, set aside 5 cm to the left. This is the beginning of the valve.
Valve length 9 cm.
Flap width 5 cm.

Shaped corners.
The flap should not reach the armhole line at least 3 cm.
We cut out 4 parts so that the inside of the valve is not visible from the front side, you need to make the inner half of the valve a little smaller. We do this with allowances. On the outer part of the valve, the allowances are 1.3 cm, and on the inner part - 1 cm, when stitching and eversion on front side the inside will not be visible, and will be more beautiful.
Read about the construction of a sleeve pattern at the link. I will write about the stages of sewing a blouse a little later)).
Sew with me) and inspiration to you))))!

2016-12-23 Maria Novikova

How to sew the most plain blouse for beginners? How to sew a blouse at home with your own hands? How much fabric do you need for a blouse and what fabric to sew? This and much more is always of interest in the first place, before tailoring fashionable blouse. In my master class I will tell you how to sew a summer blouse quickly and easily. The style of a loose fit blouse without a collar with a placket in front.

simple blouse in rustic style with your own hands, be sure to decorate your wardrobe. We look at the photo and sew a blouse ourselves.

Model selection

This time, I decided to make a rustic blouse with a floral print staple fabric. Why rustic style? Now it has become common to wear clothes in ethnic style, ecological style and rustic style. All these styles readily took root in everyday wear, i.e. V casual style. You can learn more about rustic and other styles in articles and.

What material is better to sew a blouse

But not only that attracted me, such a simple style. For tailoring rustic style clothes are used natural fabrics cotton, linen, wool, silk. They allow you to maintain healthy skin and give a feeling of comfort to the whole body. I already wrote about the advantages of natural fabrics in an article.

What to wear with a rustic blouse?

At correct selection things, you can learn how to create various images: business, everyday, in some cases evening.

For example:

pairing a rustic blouse with jeans for a casual look;
for creating business style: blouse + , pants, jacket;
evening style: blouse + skirt/pants + ;
to create an ethno style, you can use a blouse and suitable accessories;
for lovers of experiments, you can try to mix different styles. Then it will be possible to get your own;

Another main advantage is the versatility of a rustic blouse in terms of size and age. This blouse will look great on skinny girls, and on the owners magnificent forms. In addition, it can be worn as young girls and mature women.

The role of rustic style in the outside world

My experience confirms that after using the blouse, I became much closer to nature. I felt like an integral part of it. I felt a strong connection with my homeland and my nation. If you believe that proper clothes, namely, clothing made from natural fabrics changes consciousness, this means a way out of many problems.

The very simplicity and ease of the rustic style throws aside the desire to look expensive and glamorous. Striving to live on wide leg and spend resources on expensive clothes, thereby proving its validity.

The most unfortunate thing is that fashion is changeable and every year requires replenishment of the wardrobe. Throwing out old clothes landfill is a global pollution of nature, especially due to synthetic materials. Just imagine every year the consumer boom in clothing is growing rapidly, thanks to low prices for cheap, low-quality items.

By using natural fabrics in production, there is a chance to keep the planet clean and healthy. After all, our health and the health of our future depend on it. natural materials easily decompose and do not harm the earth, as synthetic materials do.

If at this moment you are thinking about my words, find smarter ways to get rid of old things. For example, alter clothes - make or donate to charity. But it is best to buy or sew clothes as needed. Only when it is really necessary, and not "once".

How much fabric do you need for a blouse?

To sew a blouse you will need:

Fabric (in my case it is a staple) - product length + sleeve length + 30.0 cm.
Adhesive () - 20.0 cm.
Threads in the color of the fabric - 1 pc. for sewing, 3 pcs. to overlock
Buttons - 3 pcs.
Finishing tape - 30.0 cm (depending on the depth of the fastener)
Sewing accessories

Open blouses

Once, sorting through my heaps of fabrics and unfinished things, I came across a dress. She pulled him out of confinement and carefully laid him in a visible place. Thought, thought, to sew me? Just the day before I finished sewing for myself classic pants link, the idea arose by itself.

Cutting a loose blouse with your own hands for beginners is not at all difficult. You can take a pattern 1-2 sizes larger (the size depends on the degree of freedom of the blouse) with sleeves and a chest tuck. Or make changes to your pattern by adding more freedom in the chest, waist, hips and sleeves. If you're having trouble modifying a pattern, take a look here.

Blouse tailoring

Before moving on to tailoring, I first tried on the dress to determine the length of the blouse and make some changes. After that I got to work. You don’t know where to start fitting, you will find answers to questions in the article.

Processing of chest darts

First I stitched chest darts and ironed them up.

How to sew a blouse with a yoke on the back

Now you can move on to cutting the coquette on the back. The yoke has a curly shape, so during the fitting, its position is applied to the back. Then fold the back in half and align the intended line.

From the resulting line, lay up the width of the allowance of 1.5 cm and cut it along the new line. The cut off top of the back will serve as a template.

On the back, lay an oncoming or bow fold (during the fitting, I did not take the excess into side seams and armhole, so I made a fold) and stitch it to the width of the allowance.

Found unfamiliar words, then contact and.

Modeling a blouse with a yoke

Using the template, cut out 2 yoke pieces from the fabric. Add by bottom cut an allowance of 1.5 cm and another 1.5 cm (the missing value on the template, which went away when cutting out the coquette). As a result, an allowance of 3.0 cm must be added along the lower cut of the coquette. If you do not take into account the increase of 1.5 cm, then the back will turn out to be shorter.

Coquette connection with the product

Take one piece of the yoke and attach it to the back with the right sides inward, align the cuts and baste the yoke.

Then take the second part of the yoke, align the front side of the yoke with the wrong side of the back, align the cuts and baste.

Stitch the details of the yoke to the back.

Iron the seam.

Thus, the allowances should be inside between the coquettes.

On the front side, lay the finishing line 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the seam.

Side seam processing

Blouse lining

Lay the blouse on a flat surface, align the side seams and yoke seams. Chop them together tailor's pins. For ease of fitting, pin around the armhole and neckline with pins. Outline the armhole according to the reference marks after trying on. Add an allowance of 1.5 cm, cut off the excess.

Align the depth of the neck with the reference points on the front and back (if any).

Cut off the excess under No. 1. Now, from the neckline, set aside the width of the facing 3.5 - 4.0 cm and draw with a smooth line. Set aside an allowance of 0.7 - 1.0 cm from this line up. Cut out the received parts - they will serve as templates for turning under No. 2.

How to cut a neckline

Transfer the received templates to paper.

By paper templates cut out the details of the facing: 2 details of the facing of the back (with folds), 2 facings of the shelf with cuts. Add allowances 0.7 - 1.0 cm.

Glue with adhesive cloth 1 detail of the facing of the back and 1 detail of the facing of the shelf, consisting of 2 symmetrical parts.

How to sew a front placket on a blouse

To process the fastener, 2 strips are required. The length of the straps = the length of the fastener + 1.5 cm, the width of the 1st strap (3.5 - 4.0 cm) + 1.0 cm multiplied by 2. It turns out 1 strap in a cut of 9.0 - 10.0 see. Before processing the fastener, an adhesive fabric is glued to half of both slats.

After that, loops are swept out on the right bar.

Before processing the fastener with strips, mark the frame in the center of the shelf 3.5 - 4.0 cm wide. It is drawn in the same way as the frame for the welt pocket. Then, the frame is cut along the center line, not reaching the end of the frame 1.5 cm. Next, the strips are tacked along the marked lines, the cuts may not match due to the difference in allowances.

How to process a pocket in a frame with a zipper, you will find in the article.

Stitch the strips not reaching 1.5 cm to the end of the frame.

At the end, cut the frame into corners not reaching 0.1 - 0.2 cm to the lines.

From the wrong side, fasten the corner of the frame together with the slats on the typewriter.

Overcast the cuts on the overlock.

On the front side, lay the finishing line along the frame.

Or make a blouse decor:

How to process the neck of a blouse without a collar

To do this, you will need pre-glued facings of the neck.

We take the facings to the shelf and back.

We grind on the machine.

We cut the allowances to 0.5 cm.

We iron the allowances towards the facing.

Then we connect shoulder seams along with a wrap. We overcast the cut and iron it on the back. This is one way! You can also pre-connect the details of the facing, process the shoulder seams and only then sew the facing around the entire circumference of the neck. The seams on the facing should match with the shoulder seams.

On the wrong side, cuts are placed on the roundings, and on the front side, an edging is inserted.

The cut of the lower facing is folded and tacked to the product.

A finishing line is laid along the upper facing, while fixing the bent cut of the lower facing. Gently iron the facing, trying not to drive the iron from side to side. This will lead to deformation of the facing.

Baste a loop on the facing and sew on the buttons.

Sleeve processing

Stitch, overcast and iron the seams on the sleeves.

Sleeve lining

According to the model, the bottom of the sleeves is decorated with a slight bevel. To do this, measure 5.0 cm from the bottom of the sleeves up along the seams and draw a line. Cut off the excess.

To process the bottom of the sleeves, you will need an oblique trim from the same fabric. Therefore, on a suitable piece of fabric, we find an angle of 45 degrees and cut out 2 strips 3.5 cm wide, 20.0 - 25.0 cm long.

Then we lay lines for assembly along the collar and bottom of the sleeves.

How to process the bottom of the sleeve with a piping seam

Connect the inlay along the oblique to make it closed, iron the seam. Gather the bottom of the sleeve into an assembly according to the circumference of the inlay.

Attach the trim to the bottom of the sleeve front side to the inside of the sleeve, align the cuts and seams. Attach the trim to the sleeve.

Then go around the seam with an inlay, fold the cut and stitch it again 0.1 - 0.2 cm from the fold.

Work the bottom of the second sleeve in the same way.

Connecting the sleeves to the product

Processing the bottom of the blouse with a Moscow seam

Cut processing

To process the bottom, you first need to process the side cuts. I processed the incisions with a Moscow suture. Why? If processing cuts traditional way, i.e. with open cuts, then when worn, the allowances will be bent to the front side. And sometimes they are even visible along with the overcasting, especially in light fabrics. Therefore, in order to cleanly do the job, I decided to process them with a Moscow seam.

First you need to cut the allowances along the cuts up to 0.5 cm and process with a Moscow seam.

Sewing a loose blouse with your own hands in a rustic style is not difficult. Enough to have experience sewing machine. Many of you, after reading my article, will decide that sewing a blouse for me is easy and fast. But I can say right away that a few years ago, sewing a collarless blouse with slats was difficult for me. Why?

Just wasn't enough detailed information on this topic. I had to learn from my mistakes and draw conclusions. Now, with your many years of experience, how to sew nice blouse I am happy to share my hands with you. I hope my master class on how to sew the most summer blouse will bring you a lot of benefits.

P.S. Don't forget to leave your comment below!

As well as your questions and wishes.

Subscribe to blog news to receive the latest articles.

All the best! Peace, light and good mood to you!

Sincerely yours, Maria Novikova.

Stop being a gray mouse, join the ranks of fashionable and stylish! Don't know how? I will help you!
Right now, place an order for a personal pattern or a consultation on tailoring and cutting clothes. Including consultation on the choice of fabric, style and own image.

My . I'm on Twitter. Look on Youtube.

Pattern knitted blouse- in front of you. It consists of two parts: back and front. This photo shows the front - it has more deep cut necks.

And in this photo - the back of the product. As you can see, the patterns are quite short. They display only the upper part of the product: you can cut out the lower straight part yourself, based on the volume of the hips.

The pattern is designed for a height of 170 cm, but you can increase it to right size and print. Besides, lower part blouses can be made longer or shorter - depending on your taste.

Do-it-yourself knitted blouse - master class:

1. Attach a pattern of one of the details to the fabric. In this case, the straight edge of the pattern must be attached to the fold of the fabric. Pin the pattern with pins to fix it in several places.

2. Cut out the part clearly along the contours of the pattern (the seam allowances are already taken into account there). Do the same with the second pattern so that both the front and the back of the product are in front of you. As you can see, both fabric parts turned out to be quite wide. The thing is that we will pull them together: in front due to figured waves, and in the back - due to the central seam.

3. Let's start with the front. We bend it vertically in half and make a line on a typewriter with a straight seam, stepping back from the fold of 7 mm. The central wave strip is ready! Now you need to make two side ones. To do this, step back from the central seam 2 cm to the left, make a parallel fold and stitch it.

4. Then step back as much to the right and sew the third line of waves.

5. As you can see, the stitched strips can be folded to the left or right. We will use this to form a wavy pattern. We bend all three lines to the left and scribble a horizontal line that would intersect all three lines.

6. Then we retreat down 5 cm, bend the strips to the other side and also sew. We repeat this trick every 5 cm, bending the fabric in different sides. Top part the front is ready!

7. Fold the cut back in half, right side inward. We sew the central vertical line, stepping back from the edge of 2 cm. In the middle of the back, we get such a tube.

8. Clearly cut this tube in the center and lay out the edges of the fabric in different directions. Here you can iron it with an iron so that the fabric is better distributed on the sides.

9. We sew the central part of the back with four vertical seams. Thus, we do decorative seam and fix the edges of the knitwear. The top of the back is ready.

10. Fold together the front and back inside out. We sweep the shoulders and sew them on a typewriter.

11. We measure the length of the neck with a centimeter. It turns out about 40 cm. We cut out a strip from knitwear for processing the neck 40 cm long and 5 cm wide. Fold the strip in half (along), and then fold the edges to the center. We iron.

12. Sew off the edges of the strip to make a bagel. Then we place this bagel evenly along the entire length of the neck, fixing it with pins.

13. We attach the edging on the typewriter.

14. Now you need to attach the bottom of the knitted blouse. We cut out two rectangles, which in the upper side will be equal to the lower edge of the upper part. well and bottom edge We do it according to our volume. We attach the bottom part and sew the side seams of the blouse.