How to shave with a straight razor. How to shave with a straight razor - useful tips, video instructions

Facial hair on a man is associated with masculinity and strength. But, not all men like to wear a beard, so they prefer to regularly shave the stubble on their faces. The stiffer the stubble, the more difficult and carefully it has to be shaved. As a rule, those with hard stubble are not suitable for conventional razors with removable blades or electric shavers, which do not give desired result, scratch the skin and cause irritation. The ideal weapon in the fight against stubble is a straight razor, which not only shave your face efficiently and smoothly, but also extends the period between shaving procedures - you have to shave less often. The only downside to shaving straight razor the fact is that there is a high probability of cuts on the face and neck, therefore, before starting the procedure, you need to master the shaving technique and choose the right tool.

How to shave with a straight razor - preparing the tool

The basis for a perfect shave with a straight razor is a high-quality tool made of especially durable metal. The razor should be as sharp as possible and not have any bends or any deformations. Only with a properly sharpened straight razor can you achieve perfectly shaved, smooth skin, without irritation or scratches.

Trust sharpening of the tool only to a professional craftsman. The process of sharpening a straight razor is quite specific and difficult, requiring special skill and experience. The instrument is straightened on the belt using a special paste, holding it at a certain angle. It is impossible to visually determine the sharpness of a razor. There is a popular test to determine the sharpness of a blade. You need to fix the razor with the blade up and smoothly lower it perpendicular to the blade of the hair. If, barely touching the blade, the hair splits into two parts - the sharpening is done perfectly.

How to properly hold a straight razor

There are two main ways to hold the instrument:

First way. The tool is held in a hand that is comfortable for you, with the blade down and the handle up. The thumb should rest against bottom part razor, to the left of the cutting edge. The little finger should rest on the unsharpened edge, being at the end of the razor - at the junction with the case. The remaining fingers are located on the edge.
Second way. This method is considered by many to be more convenient. Take the razor in your hand, blade up, handle down. Place your little finger under the so-called tail (the screw that secures the instrument to the case). The thumb should be with inside unsharpened edge with notches, and place all other fingers on the outside.

How to shave with a straight razor: stages of work

Shaving with a straight razor requires a certain level of skill and experience. Beginners should be extremely careful and take their time. Only over time will the hand become firm and confident. The main rules for safe shaving with a straight razor are knowledge of shaving techniques and rules, as well as calm and measured movements.

Shaving is carried out in different ways - with disposable machines, etc. It is with this last tool that you can achieve maximum quality and smooth skin that is impossible to achieve with other methods. But working with it is not easy and, as its name implies, dangerous. In some countries, hairdressers need a special certificate to use this tool.

The straight razor is a classic of the stylist genre

Conditions for a good shave - good sharpening

The basis of a good close shave is a sharp razor. It must be made of durable metal and not have bends or deformations. It is important to maintain its maximum sharpness. If it is not sharpened too well, it will become difficult for the master to work with it. To obtain a high-quality result, you will have to keep it under very acute angle to the skin.

This leads to the client experiencing discomfort and irritation. It also increases the likelihood of scratches. Therefore, entrust regular sharpening of your razor to a professional. He will not only sharpen it sharply and evenly, but also at the right angle.

Razor sharpness: you can change the blades, but it’s better to sharpen them correctly

To understand whether your tool is well sharpened or whether it has become dull during operation, you need to know a few rules.

The sharpness of the razor cannot be checked visually;
The test is popular. The razor is fixed on. Hair falls smoothly and softly onto it from above, perpendicular to the blade. If it only touched the blade, but broke into two parts, then the sharpening was done correctly;
Experienced craftsmen can check the sharpness with their finger, but this method is not recommended for beginners, since cuts cannot be avoided.

You need to shave a straight razor using a belt using a special paste. At the same time, you need to hold it at a certain angle to the belt. This is a rather complex and specific process. But every master should learn it, since straightening a straight razor with a large flow of clients must be done quite often.

WATCH VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS

How to hold the instrument correctly

There are two correct ways to hold a straight razor. Sometimes there are more of them, but the rest are only a variety or derivative of the main ones.

Basic method. Hold the tool in right cyst(or left for left-handers). The blade faces down, the handle faces up. The thumb rests on the bottom of the razor, to the left of the cutting edge, closer to the heel. The little finger rests on the unsharpened edge, at the end of the razor, behind the junction with the case. The remaining fingers are on the unsharpened edge;
Second method. We take the instrument in our dominant hand. The blade is turned up, the handle is turned down. The little finger is under the tail, behind the screw securing it to the case. The thumb is on the inside of the unsharpened edge with notches, all other fingers are on the outside.

The second method is considered more convenient. But each master must choose it individually.

Inclination of bristles

All hair on the body grows at a certain angle to the surface of the skin. This angle is approximately equal for identical hairs growing on the same part of the body. This important fact, which must be taken into account when shaving. In particular, when moving the razor, when tilting it and when pulling the skin.

Tensioning the belt leather

To shave properly with a straight razor, you need to know how to properly stretch the skin. It must be tightened every time the tool moves in the direction opposite to the movement of the blade. Place your finger 1.5 - 2 cm from the cutting edge and move it by pressing on the skin. Use the index finger of your non-dominant hand (i.e. the hand that is not holding the razor).

Tool angle: even if you have Solingen, the rules are the same for everyone

The instrument moves with the head forward, in short movements, strictly on the stretched area of the skin. To keep the skin smooth and the quality of work high, hold the razor at an angle to the surface of the skin of 30 - 40 degrees. If the angle turns out to be even sharper, so much the better. Movements are smooth and frequent.

This shaving will take place with maximum comfort for the client and convenience for the master. This reduces the likelihood of scratches and injuries.

Correct shaving technique with a straight razor: instructions for men

You need to use a straight razor according to specific instructions. The face is processed in several stages, which must be followed. This will allow you to get the best result combined with speed of work and comfort for the client.

The instrument must be sterilized after use on a previous client and placed in a separate box. Before using it again, it must be treated with an antiseptic. Some craftsmen use antiseptic repeatedly during the work process.

Before shaving

The beard or stubble is lathered with a shaving brush. The technician pours a glass of warm or hot water and places the razor there for a few seconds (the working surface of the tool). This is done so that it warms up and the manipulations do not cause discomfort, goosebumps or a desire to shudder in the client. All this interferes with the process.

To purchase the instrument comfortable temperature, a few seconds are enough.

Shaving the right side

Learning to shave with a straight razor assumes that it always begins with right side client's faces. Some masters start with the left, as it is more convenient for them.

The first movement is directed from the temple down, parallel to the cheekbone;
The second movement is along the angle of the lower jaw;
The third is above the second, from the center of the cheek down towards the chin;
Fourth - from the chin up to the lip;
Fifth – three movements along the mustache area above the upper lip;
The sixth is on the side of the lip, starts slightly to the right of the corner of the lips, moves towards the zone of the fifth movement;
Seventh - from the chin to the corner of the lower jaw along the edge of the face;
The eighth, ninth and tenth are three movements along the neck from top to bottom.

During the entire process, the facial skin should stretch.

Shaving the left side

The technique of shaving with a straight razor involves a different way of working with the left side of the face. This is due to the fact that most masters own hands greatly block the view.

The first movement is from the temple down, as on the right;
The second movement - on the cheek - is similar to the third on the right;
Third - three short movements above the upper lip;
Fourth - from the place to the right of the corner of the lips to the mustache area and from the same place down to the chin;
Fifth - a series of movements along the line of the lower jaw, from its angle to the chin;
Sixth – Along the chin to the lip, from bottom to top;
Seventh, eighth, ninth, tenth - a series of movements from the chin and jaw line down to the neck.

No matter how sharp the razor is, you will still end up with stubble residue. To eliminate them, shaving again is carried out against the growth.

Second phase

Starts on the right. The first movement is along the neck, closer to the ear, from bottom to top. The second is along the angle of the lower jaw to the temple. The third is from the jaw up. Fourth - from the jaw to the ear. Fifth - from the jaw to the chin. Next, the chin itself and the area on the side of it, towards the mustache line, are shaved. After this, shave the area under again. lower lip and neck, moving from bottom to top, i.e. against hair growth.

On the left, you also start from the neck. Then, in three movements from bottom to top, shave your cheek. The fifth movement starts from the corner of the lips down the chin, the sixth - from the same area up to the nose. Then the area under the lower lip and neck is shaved.

After the procedure

Wipe off any foam from the skin with a towel. Now wash your face with cool water. When skin is prone to irritation, use a warm compress with a damp towel for a few minutes.

Close shaving is a whole complex of events, be prepared for them

Now apply any aftershave care that suits your skin type.

Straight razors are considered a retro anachronism these days. Such blades are given as an extraordinary birthday present, but few people use them regularly. Modern men For shaving, they prefer to use safe machines that do not require careful maintenance. However, the fashion for beards and mustaches provokes the ancient craving for cold steel, which is in every man’s blood.

There is no reason to suppress this craving, but it is worth first understanding a number of issues related to the rules for using straight razors in everyday life. Let's consider everything: from the philosophical “why?” to the ordinary “how to store?”

From the history of the razor

The question of putting things in order male face arose in ancient times, when wearing a bushy beard on the face became “indecent” in high society. Chin hair was worn exclusively by “barbarians”, with whom the civilized world (Egypt, Rome, Etruscans, Alba and others) did not want to associate themselves.

Shaving was a very dangerous undertaking. Cleaning yourself up using a device with a straight blade was truly suicidal. It is no coincidence that the profession of barber existed practically unchanged for hundreds and hundreds of years, and in Europe barbers often also performed some medical procedures. Barbers are like white sharks, their skills are so subtle and perfect that they simply do not need to evolve.

Interestingly, arched shaving blades appeared as early as the 1st millennium BC, as evidenced by archaeological finds. The wedge-shaped razor existed almost unchanged until the beginning of the 20th century. Everything changed with the appearance of the T-shaped razor from Gillette, which guaranteed safety, comfort and... degradation of the sacred process of shaving into something unbearably ordinary.

In the 20th century, “caution” became an item from the retro world. This device has practically ceased to be used in everyday life. It was mainly purchased by hairdressers, since the blade is very convenient for straightening beards, temples and the back of the head.

Benefits of a straight razor

The uninitiated may ask a fair question: “Why use such an artifact for shaving, if there are disposable machines and even electrical devices?. Here are five counterarguments:

A straight razor is better at shaving hair on the chin and neck due to its large shaving surface.
“Opaska” prevents the problem of ingrown hairs, which is often encountered by men with thick stubble who use disposable hair trimmers.
A straight razor does not cause or require repeated passage over the same area of the face or neck.
This razor is better suited for shaving coarse stubble, as the sharpness and length of the blade removes coarse and densely growing hairs more thoroughly.
Finally, the banal prestige and durability of such devices. If other machines have to be changed regularly, then a high-quality straight razor can even be inherited.

The only downside of the “danger”, which, however, can be eliminated over time, is that certain skills are required in the shaving procedure. But, as experienced PROs assure: “As soon as your hand gains firmness, this process becomes pleasant.”

Types of dangerous razors

Nowadays, in stores you can find both “guards” with stationary blades and chavettes. The latter are characterized by the fact that instead of a thick cutting knife-plate, it uses replaceable plates, including for. Shavettes are devices that do not require sterilization, created specifically for hairdressing procedures. After shaving, the blade is removed from the razor and disposed of as household waste.

There are many shapes of straight razor blades. For the uninitiated, they are divided into only two main types - with a straight and concave (wedge-shaped) razor knife. Experienced professionals can handle any device; for them, only two criteria play a significant role: the quality of the steel and the degree of sharpening of the blade. For beginners best result Barbers advise using a razor with a completely concave surface. This type of blade will allow you to remove hairs even in hard-to-reach places.

The thickness of the razor blade plays an important role in the variety of straight razors. Manufacturers make machines with blade widths ranging from 2/8 to 8/8 inches. Accordingly, the weight of razors varies. Professional barbers traditionally use heavy razors for their main work, and use lighter ones for delicate areas. This rule can also be followed by beginners, although it will be expensive to purchase two “dangers” at once. You can look for something of average weight and feel free to use it for different areas of the face and neck.

Basic rules for close shaving

First of all, you need to hold the razor correctly in your hand. Like writing pen, it is customary to hold a straight razor with three fingers. The optimal blade angle is considered to be 30°. This is the direction in which the hairs on the cheeks grow.

When shaving with such a device, be sure to pull the skin in the opposite direction from the movement of the blade. This should be done with your fingers, placing them at a distance of 3 centimeters from the razor blade. Before shaving a new area of the face, it is necessary to tighten the skin again.

The blade needs to be worked smoothly, without pressure. Only the hand holding the razor knife should take part in shaving, otherwise the risk of cuts increases. It is better to start the procedure from the temples, gradually moving towards the chin. The neck is shaved last. In order not to damage the Adam's apple, the skin in the area of the Adam's apple is pulled to the side, after which the blade is passed in the direction of the growth of the bristles.

Before shaving, the skin of the cheeks and neck can be lathered with the help of, and the blade itself can be dipped in warm water for a few minutes. These manipulations are designed to reduce the risk of injury to the procedure and give it a pleasant feeling. The device itself, of course, must be carefully sharpened, since it is much easier to cut yourself with a dull blade.

Rules for sharpening, straightening and storing a straight razor

Sharpening and editing "caution" - without exaggeration magic ritual, allowing your blade to perform its purpose "smoothly". Before sharpening, it is important to evaluate the shape (geometry) and angle of the blade. To spend this procedure Effectively, the open razor should be placed on a transparent surface (a piece of glass or plastic). This will allow you to accurately estimate the angle of inclination. It is also important to examine the blade for deep chips and nicks, as such damage requires professional attention.

Sharpening

To sharpen straight razors, whetstones (stones) with different abrasive surfaces are used. A grit of 800-1000 grit can be used exclusively for sharpening. The butt of the razor should lie on the whetstone, and the cutting edge should be in the same plane with it. After this, the razor is guided along the stone with the cutting edge forward. Turn the razor over only through the butt.

It is believed that a well-sharpened device easily cuts hair held suspended. It is not recommended to check the sharpness of the blade by cutting pieces of paper, since such an experiment will lead to a dull cutting edge. On average, you need to sharpen a straight razor no more than once every 2-3 months. Sometimes this procedure can be carried out only once every six months, it all depends on the frequency of use.

Edit

Straight razor straightening is carried out regularly, before each use of the machine. This procedure requires a special leather (linen) belt, as well as a paste that is applied to the surface of the belt. The key here is a properly selected belt, which should be equal to or slightly longer than the length of the cutting blade.

When stropping the razor, it is important to apply a lot of tension. leather strip. The blade, pressed tightly to the blade, is pulled forward with the comb at least 50 times. When editing, it is necessary to ensure that contact occurs with the entire surface of the cutting blade. Otherwise, the razor may be damaged. Straightening a razor does not sharpen it, but only maintains it. in the right condition cutting surface. That is why this procedure must be carried out regularly, unlike sharpening.

Storage

If there is a need to put the straight razor “in the drawer” for a while, then before doing so it is necessary to lubricate it with “soft” oil, which will prevent metal corrosion. After each use, the blade must be rinsed warm water and wipe dry, and only then put away dry place until next use.

Conclusion

Straight razors are an elite device for real men, requiring not only skills in handling, but also a number of additional gadgets (belt, whetstone, straightening paste). However, having bought such a razor once, a man will be able to transform the ordinary shaving procedure into a sacred ritual, accessible only to narrow circle connoisseurs of vintage perfection in every detail.

Disposable equipment and clothing, plastic dishes and disposable slippers. Alas, our age is an age of disposability.
Good and solid things that are passed down from generation to generation have almost disappeared from our everyday life.

It is not surprising that more and more people miss good, “eternal” things.
Let's take the obligatory (and so unloved) ritual of shaving for every man...

Today today we will probably talk about “dangerous (blade) razors.”

Firstly, the term “straight razor” itself...

Here funny story... At the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries, naturally, there were no “dangerous razors”. There were just razors.
This was later when “safety razor” appeared. In order to make it immediately clear what kind of razors we are talking about, the old ones (which are not safety) began to be called “blade”, and then “dangerous” :) So if you find yourself in 1900, do not even think of calling razors “dangerous”. They won't understand...

Since the 18th century, the stronghold of the production of "dangerous" razors has been English city Sheffield. Later, a second shaving center appeared - the German city of Solingen. The number of brands and manufacturers that existed at that time was so large that today it is difficult to reconstruct the history of their development. Hundreds of small and large enterprises supplied countless razors to the world market. Razors from Solingen have become famous for their first-class deep sharpening. The rustling rustle they make when shaving has earned them the additional name “singing razors.”

The golden age of the straight razor ended in 1895, after an American amateur inventor named King Camp Gillette (his real name) realized his idea of clamping a double-edged blade in a handle holder.

He called his invention the “safety razor.” Indeed, shaving has become much easier and safer.

A short-lived razor blade was born, which revolutionized the life of the male part of humanity. Although the first Gillette razors entered the market only in 1903, the razor history began successfully: already in 1904, 12.4 million units of such razors from different companies were sold!

But let's get back to straight razors. Today, in fact, there is only one serious company left producing “dangerous razors” - the Dovo company, founded in 1906 in Solingen.

Gradually, Dovo acquired many other Solingen brands. Among others is “Bismarck”, a name that has been emblazoned on razors for 150 years and tells connoisseurs about the superior quality of the blade. The decline began in the late 40s. In the 50s, the company employed only 35 employees in the production of razors. In 1987, for whole year Only 7,000 razors were made.

It would seem that the “dangerous razor” has become a useless anachronism today. Like, a disposable machine vest, even if it’s made of bad plastic and gets dull quickly, but it’s cheap and fast.

Well, about cheap, I’m not at all sure - have you calculated how much these “cheap disposable” razors cost per year? And in a decade? You will leave a good straight razor as an inheritance to your grandchildren :)

And about “quickly and well” - I completely disagree here too.

The blade of a good "safety" is so sharp that ordinary blades could not even dream of. Also, the blade of a straight razor is very long, which allows you to clean in one movement. large area faces. Since the razor is incredibly sharp, any area of skin is shaved no more than twice; those with soft stubble generally touch any area of skin once.
The sharpness and length of the blade ensure that the razor touches your face minimal amount times, and you don’t have to lift your chin a hundred times. Therefore, irritation is minimal.

In addition, a straight razor is ALWAYS equally sharp, it must be straightened BEFORE EVERY shave, so the hair is always shaved well and does not break off. With a conventional razor, when the blade wears out, the hairs begin to be pulled out rather than shaved off, causing damage to both the hair and the skin. Also, torn hair can curl and begin to grow inward. And this includes acne and other troubles.

Which razor to use is, as they say, up to the owner. However, it doesn’t hurt to get acquainted with the opinions of competent people - specialists, that is. So, cosmetologists claim that the most effective shave is provided by a “dangerous” razor, followed by a safety razor, and only in third place is an electric razor.

In addition, the “dangerous razor” is a whole ritual. Dimensional and leisurely...

Close shaving always starts with preparing the razor. Before use, it needs to be “corrected” on a special belt...

Moreover, you need to do this only on your own, and always turn the blade over only through the back, otherwise you can ruin the razor.

Then beat the foam with a shaving brush, or apply cream on it, carefully and thickly cover the slightly moistened face with foam. Then we take the razor with some special grip (of which there are quite a few), and begin to shave leisurely.

This ritual ends when the face is smoothly shaved, then we apply a towel soaked in hot water, and then apply herbal aftershave balm to the skin. It feels great, like being born again. There is a deep belief that only after this you can feel truly clean-shaven :)

Of course, shaving with a straight razor is more difficult than with the usual disposable razors...
But there is nothing overly complicated about it. Here I could insert a confusing statement, like: "Index, middle and ring fingers lie on top of the neck of the razor, the little finger is on the tail notch, and thumb- on the lower part of the neck, resting on the heel. The sting is directed downward."

But it's better to see once ;)

In addition to moral and psychological pleasure, we have amazingly soft, fragrant facial skin, any woman will certainly appreciate it. It’s only in pictures that they may like macho men with three-day stubble, but they prefer to kiss well-shaven guys. Further, the stubble after a close shave grows more slowly, and the shave is much cleaner than even multi-blade machines. Some enthusiasts are cautious - they claim that you have to shave with such a razor TWICE less often.

Among the disadvantages, we can note the considerable cost of a set of accessories, the long shaving process, so it is inconvenient to shave like this every day, rushing to work in the morning, but once or twice a week, why not give yourself a gift? Naturally, you also need to be careful both when handling the razor and when shaving. However, you should not consider using this razor such a dangerous undertaking, the rule is simple - do not move the razor horizontally, and everything will be fine.
Yes, close shaving is not a necessity now, nor is it the easiest or cheapest way to shave, but it is one of those ancient rituals that is undeniably enjoyable compared to its more modern counterpart. And it’s simple - a good straight razor, it’s very beautiful:

And finally, when we have definitely determined that a decent retrograde needs a razor (okay, okay - a “dangerous razor”) - it’s time to tell us how to get it into the greedy retrograde paws.

The easiest way is to find a specialized shop and buy a modern-made straight razor there. From country to country, addresses and appearances change - so look for specific addresses yourself. This path naturally has its pros and cons:

The main advantage of buying a new and modern razor (I emphasize “modern new”, but more on that later) is mainly that a straight razor is a very gentle and delicate instrument. It’s easier than ever to ruin it, for example, simply dropping a razor on the floor can ruin it completely. Even a chip on the cutting edge that is invisible to the eye - and the razor will tear the skin, causing irritation or, even worse, cuts, and will also begin to pull out hairs.
Such a razor can save experienced master(do you know those in your city?) - sharpening it. But most often you will no longer be able to use the razor.

So, when buying a new razor, you have a guarantee that it is well sharpened and without hidden defects....

Although, unfortunately, even this, probably the only benefit from buying a new razor, is no longer one hundred percent.

A very ugly story recently surfaced on the website of a Russian razor store about a factory defect of a brand new Solingen razor. After the first use, the razor blade began to become covered with stains and stains characteristic of rusting. The sellers stated that this moment The likelihood of rust to a greater or lesser extent exists in 50% of purchased razors.

The point turned out to be that modern manufacturers save on both metal and labor. The manufacturer does not have the opportunity and/or desire to purchase higher quality raw materials for the production of straight razors, or the processing technology is somehow broken. Metal for razors needs to be of very high quality and with special properties. Today, very little of this metal is needed - and this is small-scale production, which costs crazy money, and there is no physical or financial opportunity, and the existing one is made in violation of technology. In addition, the production of razors to this day requires a lot of manual and HIGHLY SKILLED work. The Germans are forced to accept emigrants from Arab countries to the famous Soling factories - you yourself understand what kind of quality we can talk about. And since razors, in fact, have turned into rare toys for snobs, it looks like they will have to forget about their former quality forever.

The second disadvantage can be considered the price of a new razor. Prices start from $150 for the most modest razors. If you add the price - a straightening belt ($50-100), paste for applying to the belt before straightening the razor, a good shaving brush. It’s good if you manage to keep it to $250-300.
Moreover, the quality of the set will be “very basic”. You have to pay for eccentricities...

So let's say firmly - buying a new razor is not the path for a real retrograde. We will buy new a belt for straightening (but not from crazy resellers) and a shaving brush :)
But we will look for a razor from those times when Solingen was an icon of metallurgy and blacksmithing in Germany, when the city received its status as a city of the best blacksmiths of edged weapons; area, whose craftsmen had the right to put a mark on their products - “Me Fecit Solingen” - (Latin: “I was made in Solingen”).

Let's look for an old razor! But old, not in the sense of used, rusty and scratched...
You won't believe it, but people still have quite a lot of old razors in their original packaging. Never used!

There are quite a few similar auctions on eBay. I use German eBay - it's close. Plus - Lithuania is now Schengen and the European Union, so there are no customs or taxes. Place your bids, pay and receive your items by mail, hassle-free.

How do you like this lot???

True, the price of 30 euros is just a bet. It is absolutely impossible to predict how much it will cost :(

But a useful “show only closed auctions” button can help here. It can be useful to see how much people end up buying for.

Let's look at the average in price and the cheapest...

New - in packaging. She left, as you can see, on October 5 for 40 euros

And this one is even cheaper - although I like it better. As you can see, 13 people placed bets. Serious fight was walking

And this is already well used - automatically the price is different. Although people were also interested - there were 5 bids

Of course, they also sell completely worthless razors:

And this razor is no longer suitable for us - it is substandard. See the chip at the end of the blade? And although the razor is beautiful and from a good company, the price is ridiculous

This is also no longer a working razor - just on the shelf. The blade is completely worn out. Accordingly, the price for which it was bought....

As you can see, you can buy a razor for little money. After all, it’s still unknown whether you’ll like shaving in such a retrograde way :)
And give out serious sums of money for modern show-off “straight razors” of dubious quality? Obviously not the path of a retrograde :)

P.S. I dare to hope that I have made you a little interested in these very dangerous razors :) And even if you do not switch to a straight razor, then after this post, at least sometimes you will treat yourself to the leisurely ritual of real shaving!

About razors and collecting them

P.P.S Yeah, and you were warned that this was quite dangerous? :))))

We answer all the questions about shaving with a straight razor that a beginner might have.

What do you need for a close shave?

Necessarily:
straight razor.
The razor must be sharp, this is the only way it will glide easily. Otherwise, you will want to make an effort and make the angle between the blade and the skin larger, and this can lead to cuts and severe irritation.
straightening belt.
Straighten the razor before each shave, read how to do it correctly.
soap or shaving cream + shaving brush.
aftershave.

Optional:
hot compress towel.
alum for accidental cuts.

Everything you need for shaving, in addition to the straightest razor and straightening belt. Alternatively: Muehle cotton towel, Omega shaving brush, alum stick, Proraso shaving soap and lotion

How to prepare the skin?

We have a post about in different ways in preparation for shaving, you can choose any one you like. We advise you to steam your face thoroughly with a hot compress and, if available, apply a preshave. The skin will become less vulnerable, there will be less irritation Afterwards, the bristles will soften and will be easier to remove. After this, you can apply foam.

Why is balloon foam not suitable?

Unlike self-whipped foam, balloon foam is not wet enough and does not provide such slip, so close shaving becomes more traumatic with it. If you shave cautiously, prepare the foam yourself - with a brush of soap or cream.

There is nothing difficult with applying foam, but there is a nuance: if there are features on the skin (moles, warts, burrogas), you need to remove the soap from them and thereby mark the place where they are located. You cannot shave them with a straight razor: a sharp blade can easily cut off all the protrusions.

If the foam dries out during the process, lather your face again, do not dry shave.

How to stay safe?

The correct grip is needed to ensure that the safety guard is fixed in your hand. When shaving, it should be one piece with the brush. It is with a brush, not a razor, that all movements are made. The instrument itself remains motionless.

The first method is when the sting looks down. The little finger is on the tail; nameless, middle and index fingers– on top of the earl; large at the bottom, rests on the heel (to understand what we mean, look). The second method is the same as the first, only the sting points upward.

You can put two fingers on the ponytail - the little finger and the ring finger. The main thing is that you are comfortable and the razor is well fixed.

How to apply the blade to the skin and do you need to set its angle?

It is usually advised to place the blade at 30° to the skin; in fact, this is not at all necessary. The greater the angle (that is, the more you lift the butt from the skin), the higher the aggressiveness. But high aggressiveness means not only a clean shave, but also the risk of ingrown hairs, cuts, and irritation. When you're just learning, you don't need this.

Hold the blade flat without tearing off the butt, this will not be a mistake. You will shave without any problems, although it won’t come out as clean as with a given angle, but the process will be much easier and more comfortable for you.

Blade at 30° to skin and blade flat

To prevent the blade from sticking when you apply it to the skin, it must be dry, so when shaving, do not rinse the blade, but wipe it on soft cloth(O waffle towel, For example). By the way, this way the tool will last longer: you won’t accidentally hit it on the tap when washing it, and you’ll protect it from unnecessary contact with water (they don’t like water).

When shaving, do not rinse, but wipe the razor on a cloth, as shown in the figure.

How does shaving happen?

Working with caution is easy and intuitive, but don’t expect a perfect result right away. Fill your hand gradually and do not rush. A little practice and patience - and everything will work out. At first, shaving requires calm and concentration, so it is best to do it in the evening, when there are no distractions and enough free time.

During the process, only the brush works, the razor is fixed. The movements are light, frequent, bevelling. The blade glides and removes hair easily, no pressure or effort is required. There is no need to scrape and try to shave off as much as possible in one movement - we work with light, short strokes.

Help yourself in the process: stretch the skin with your fingers in the direction opposite to the movement of the blade. The skin should not “gather” under the blade and “sag”, otherwise there will be a cut.

Before moving on to the face, with its complex terrain, we advise you to practice: try shaving an area on your arm or leg.

How many passes can you make?

No more than three - according to hair growth, against hair growth and across. No need to try to scrape it out perfect smoothness, otherwise it will be severe irritation. Leave the unshaved areas until the next shave; next time, work with the blade in a different direction.

Over time, when you study your face, understand how stubble grows on it, how to guide the razor, you will be able to shave perfectly clean and three passes will be enough for you.

Is it safe to cut yourself?

Cutting yourself with a straight razor is easy and at the same time difficult. From severe cuts after all, the instinct of self-preservation will protect. If you do everything correctly, it is impossible to imagine that you could inflict any serious injury on yourself. On the other hand, small cuts, especially at first, are not uncommon. They take a long time to heal, just be careful and keep alum on hand.

To avoid getting seriously injured, you should not:
- hurry;
- shave moles and other protrusions on the skin;
- catch the danger if it slips out of your hands. This can cause serious injury; it’s better to let him fall!