Shoe leather. Cow boots - durability, reliability, warmth

The peak of popularity of cowhide (yuft), tarpaulin and chrome boots occurred during the last century, but they continue to remain relevant in a number of cases. Today they are in demand among:

• employees of chemically hazardous industries;
• railway track crew workers;
• electric welders;
• foundry workers;
• participants in the reconstruction of historical events;
• some hunters, villagers, etc.

The appearance of tarpaulin, yawn and chrome boots, in their modern form, occurred in the Soviet period and is associated with the appearance of tarpaulin fabric. This thick cotton fabric takes its name from the English word "kersey", which was synonymous with rough linen, a type of technical fabric. Over time, its pronunciation received the name familiar to us - tarpaulin. For the production of tarpaulin shoes, material was used that was treated with a film-forming substance applied to multi-layer fabric. The cheapness of this leather substitute predetermined its mass use for the production of first military and then special footwear.

Tarpaulin boots

For their time, they were distinguished by enviable wear resistance. In addition, their production cost the state treasury much less than leather shoes. Tarpaulin boots They kept warm well, which allowed them to be all-season shoes. In conditions of a shortage of natural leather, the ability to establish an uninterrupted supply of footwear to troops also played a role in its widespread use. In conditions of insufficient production of civilian shoes, they could often be seen among ordinary citizens, especially in the post-war period.

Advantages of tarpaulin boots:

• low cost;
• sufficient wear resistance;
• protect the legs from the effects of various deformations and shock loads;
• protection of feet and legs from exposure to aggressive liquids and
• moisture resistance, including in rough terrain.

Cowhide and yuft boots. Is there a difference?

The use of yuft (cow leather) made it possible to improve the quality, comfort and durability of boots. The latter was made from the skins of cattle, horse and pork. Despite the rough workmanship, it was already a natural material, possessing all its inherent qualities: hygroscopicity, the ability to retain heat, high strength, hypoallergenicity. The use of yufti affected the comfort of wear; the skin better accepted the natural shape of the leg, which could not be said about artificial material.

Another name for yufti is “Russian leather”. It goes through several stages of tanning and is produced from the skins of barnyard (not older than 1-1.5 years) cattle, horses and pork. The technology of its manufacture changed over time, new tanning methods were introduced (chrome salts were used), but the quality always allowed it to be used for the production of durable shoes. Cowhide, used in their manufacture, was considered optimal for the conditions of hazardous industries, where boots, at that time, had no equal.

GOSTs have been repeatedly developed to regulate the quality of shoes made of yuft leather. Because of the name of the leather used in production, boots made of yuft were called cowhide boots. There are practically no differences, except for the thickness of the material, which could differ slightly.

Cowhide boots were part of the clothing uniform issued to the Armed Forces and were in demand in rural areas and by workers in hazardous industries. They perfectly protected the legs of hunters and village workers from cold, moisture and shock loads. Steelworkers used them in conditions of high temperatures, where the leather showed its best qualities, effectively removing excess moisture and protecting against sparks. Welders valued them for effective protection from scale and dielectric properties.

Advantages of cowhide (yuft) boots:

• resistance to various types of deformation;
• protection against the ingress of aggressive liquids (gasoline, oil, etc.);
• moisture resistance;
• protection against electric shock;
• those present in the skin allow it to “breathe”, allowing them to better retain heat;
• hypoallergenic.

How to distinguish cowhide (yuft) boots from tarpaulin boots

The first thing you need to pay attention to is the bottom of the boot. Leather differs favorably from tarpaulin fabric, including in appearance. The naked eye can see its inherent pattern and texture, which differs from tarpaulin. The latter only undergoes processing in the form of embossing “under the skin”, so it looks less like it. Other differences between yuft boots and tarpaulin boots include:

• they are warmer due to the skin’s better ability to retain heat;
• dry better after getting wet;
• after some time, the lower part takes the shape of the leg, which makes wearing more comfortable;
• resistance to any type of deformation, protect the leg from impact;
• during hot periods, cowhide leather wicks away moisture better, allowing your feet to remain dry;
• high dielectric properties of skin;
• higher cost (leather shoes always cost more).

Chrome boots

At the beginning of their appearance, they were available to officers, the Airborne Forces, and military personnel who were part of the honor guard companies. The leather of chrome boots is very soft, undergoes more careful dressing and is very beautiful to look at. Shoes made from it are more elegant than tarpaulin or cowhide. Over time, the situation has changed, the industry produces many models of chrome boots, especially women's ones, due to their comfort, elegance and beauty.

Differences between chrome boots and tarpaulin boots

They are rightfully considered the most comfortable of all three shoe options, which predetermined the interest of women in them. Other differences include the following:

• undergoes higher quality processing compared to cowhide ones; in particular, chromium salts are used, which gave the name to the boots;
• soft leather of chrome boots lends itself better to dyeing, embossing and finishing the front part of the leather surface;
• comfortable to wear due to greater elasticity and plasticity;
• beautiful appearance, due to the fact that they retain their shape better compared to tarpaulin or shingle;
• less resistant to prolonged extreme loads than tarpaulin or cowhide, because their skin is thinner.

Beauty and elegance made chrome boots practically unsuitable as special footwear. In terms of their working qualities, they are inferior to yalov, yuft and tarpaulin.

The stable climate and optimal conditions for raising livestock in Europe are a good argument for Rostock to purchase upper leather primarily here. Each purchased skin is tanned by experienced, proven specialists and is controlled by Rostok for the quality of processing and the impeccability of the outer layer of the skin.

What kind of skin makes a career at Rostock?

Sheep nappa. Leather made from sheep skin is especially supple and soft. Optimal for soft women's and men's moccasins. Appearance: smooth surface and delicate measure.	Opoek. Leather from the skins of young calves. With a delicate measure, well shaped, with a silky sheen. Ideal for elegant urban models.	Cowhide. Soft felted, very flexible and wear-resistant. Particularly suitable for unlined moccasins. Natural optics of the mere.
Deer leather (suede). Unique fiber structure, unusually soft leather for super comfortable moccasins with noble optics.	Buff. Wear-resistant and dense fibrous structure. Preferred for leisure shoes and sandals. Shine effect.	Goatskin leather (chevro). a kind of measure, wear-resistant and yet very soft. Suitable for dyeing.
Nubuck. (Skin without facial layer). Cowhide or calf leather sanded on the top side, soft to the touch. It lends itself especially well to dyeing.	Velours. (Skin without layer). Cowhide or calf leather sanded on the bakhmarta side. If you run your hand over the pile, a gentle color change occurs.	Hunter's opok. (Leather without facial layer and cattle skins). The sanded bakhtarma is worn outward, softly moving inward. You can do without a lining.
patent leather. Rostock has only the most delicate mold and is therefore especially soft, flexible and pliable.	Fantasy skin. Natural, gentle drink. A fashionable appearance is achieved through printing or embossing.	Reptile embossing. Base: Natural, gentle wax. Fashionable embossing “under the scales” of reptiles.

The PAT company continues to talk about the intricacies of shoe craft. And this time we will talk about leather used in the production of safety shoes. It would seem that genuine leather is such a familiar material that nothing new can be learned about it. But we will try to reveal some secrets to you.

The modern world is faced with a shortage of genuine leather for shoes. The fact is that the number of animals specially raised for production becomes smaller in relation to the number of shoes produced. This trend is due to the increased global demand for leather clothing and, in particular, shoes, a reduction in pastures for livestock, an increase in the world's population, etc. That is why manufacturers have begun to resort to some tricks to help meet the high demand for leather shoes. Since safety shoes, and especially those sold in Russia, belong to the category of inexpensive economy-class products, then, as a rule, all manufacturers try to use fairly cheap leather, while continuing to point out that it is high quality.

Types of shoe leather

In the production of safety footwear, cattle leather is used: cow leather or buffalo leather (buffalo), usually from India and Pakistan. Buffalo leather has become more widespread. It itself is cheaper than cowhide (cow leather), has a greater thickness, which can be sawn into a larger number of layers - splits, each of which can be used in various fields shoe production. Thus, leather for shoe uppers, which is used in the production of safety footwear, is divided into three main types:

• leather with a natural grain surface (grain leather/leather goods);
• polished leather (leather with sanding);
• shoe splits (coated genuine leather).

Natural grain leather

We are talking about the outermost layer of skin, which has best characteristics Compared to the lower layers: high elasticity, resistance and strength, durability. The leather from the top layer of the hide allows air to pass through better and does not allow water to pass through due to the presence of animal fat in its composition. However, in the mass production of safety shoes, leather of this type is used quite rarely due to its high cost. Manufacturers solved this problem by sawing (scorching) thick leather (about 1.5 cm) into layers. This is how splits appeared.

Natural grain leather is divided into two main types depending on the tanning method:

• chrome leathers;
• yuft.

Chrome leather

Chrome leathers are soft leathers tanned with basic chromium salts - chromium-potassium and chromium-sodium alum and chromium. Tanning is carried out in special rotating drums for 8-12 hours using specially developed technology. The leather of this finish becomes soft and elastic.

This finishing method provides the skin of the feet with normal sweating, breathing and optimal temperature. Its features: it has increased thickness and elasticity (which improves the resistance of the shoe upper to repeated bending), resistance to impact and abrasion, water, dirt and dust.

With all the advantages this method is quite expensive and therefore chrome-tanned leather is used in the production of safety footwear quite rarely. Chrome leathers with a natural grain surface can be either smooth or... with a pattern (meriya) and velvety (with pile), like nubuck.

Nubuck

Nubuck is a specially treated leather that is chrome tanned. It has a weak pile on the front surface, which gives the skin a good appearance - it becomes velvety. Nubuck made from genuine leather has good breathability and is poorly wetted by water, and has a water-resistant effect. The disadvantages of this leather include the need to care for the products. Nubuck is a high-quality material, therefore it is used only in the production of high-end shoes.

• Work boots with metal toe "Hummer" beige color
• Work boots with metal toe "Hummer" brown

Yuft leather

The skin is finished with strong tanning agents. Yuft leathers are thick, soft leathers with a high fat content (26-30%), water resistant. Unlike chrome leather, they have a higher content of fatty substances, as well as water resistance and wear resistance, but are less elastic. To impart these qualities, the leather is processed through prolonged liming and heavy fatliquoring (fat content in yufti is up to 25% of the leather weight). This method is less expensive compared to chrome tanning, and therefore is more often used by manufacturers of safety footwear. Sometimes yuft tanning is combined with chrome treatment.

New work boots with an adjustable drawstring, made of full-grain yuft leather, a polyurethane/thermopolyurethane sole, with a composite toe cap reinforced with Kevlar threads, a Kevlar anti-puncture insole, a “CAMBRELLE” PA081b lining, and also with a lining from natural fur PA081b G.FUR:

Sanded leather

During its lifetime, the animal could have damaged its skin or had other skin defects due to illness. Also, animal skins can be damaged during removal from the carcass, transportation or storage. In this case, manufacturers sand the damaged areas, but at the same time the front layer in these areas is destroyed (damaged). Sometimes animal skins are in such a condition that the entire surface has to be sanded. In this case, the quality of sanded leather is very similar to split leather.

Splits

Split leather or split leather is a layer of leather that is obtained using special equipment. The skin is stratified into several layers, sometimes up to 5-6. There are front, middle and mezdrovy (or bakhtormyany) splits.

When delamination occurs, the structure of the leather is disrupted, so split leather gets a number of disadvantages. They are loose, heavy, and since the fibers remain in the top layer, the split wood does not stretch well and does not restore its shape after deformation. Like the top layer of leather, split leather allows air to pass through, but quickly absorbs and accumulates water vapor; it is less water-resistant and, as a rule, dries worse. Shoe splits are less elastic, strong and durable. The artificial covering of split leather can crack or even detach from the leather base.

To restore the properties of split leather and expand the scope of its application, namely in the shoe industry, it is embossed with a hot press with various additives or impregnations, creating a 100% artificial surface on one side so that it looks like leather. There are many different technologies for applying artificial coating to split leather. As a result, it is almost impossible to distinguish split leather from leather in the finished product. After chemical treatment, split leather is sometimes called "skinned leather" artificial face» or coated leather.

With certain processing, split wood may have a coating applied to one side. They are often processed polyurethane coating: Split leather is covered with a film based on microporous polyurethane. The process of applying foamed PVC or polyurethane films to split ends consists of coating the split ends with an adhesive (usually applied on a roller machine), then the split ends are fed to the film and secured by pressing. Sometimes spraying liquid polyurethene onto the leather is used, which makes it possible to obtain split leather with excellent appearance and physical and mechanical characteristics, but at a higher price.

Thermoplastic, polyurethane and PVC films create a dense surface with good performance. However, the performance characteristics differ significantly from genuine leather with a natural “face”, so this technology allows the production of only inexpensive split leather items.

Another simple technological solution is finishing the split wood with acrylic resins. The finish is applied by sprinkler or spray. After applying one or two primer layers by cutting (pressing), the effect of the front surface is created. Finally, the surface is sealed with varnish. The advantage of this finishing method is its cost-effectiveness. No special equipment is required to apply acrylic resins; standard machines available in tanneries can be used.

Sometimes combined mixtures of polyurethane, acrylic and other substances are used.

THE OPERATING PRINCIPLE OF OUR ORGANIZATION “RAT” IS TO ALWAYS COMPLETELY AND ACCURATELY INFORM CUSTOMERS ABOUT THE MATERIALS AND TECHNOLOGIES THAT WERE USED IN THE PRODUCTION OF FOOTWEAR AND ALL RISKS THAT MAY ARISE DURING THE OPERATION OF THE SPECIAL SHOES.

FOOTWEAR FROM RAT COMPANY HAS ALL NECESSARY CERTIFICATES AND WARRANTY. BUYING SPECIAL FOOTWEAR FROM US, YOU ARE GUARANTEED TO RECEIVE A HIGH-QUALITY PRODUCT FROM PROFESSIONALS WITH THE BEST PRICE/QUALITY RATIO!

The RAT company pays due attention to the quality of production of its safety footwear. Including the materials from which the goods are made. Leather is the basis of safety shoes, so control over the proper protective and comfortable characteristics is carried out at the highest level. The RAT company uses only high-quality split wood, processed using the latest technologies, which allows maintaining its high positive characteristics without compromising the quality of the product.

The RAT company offers wholesale safety shoes made of high-quality coated genuine leather and delivery to any corner of Russia and the world:

• Work boots with a black metal toe "Hummer" on a rubber sole;

There is another type of leather - pressed or restored. It is made of material produced under pressure from natural leather production waste: scraps and scraps, chrome shavings, tanning dust and other waste. The scattered particles are crushed into a fine powder, which is mixed with synthetic materials, acting as connecting fibers. The production is completed by filling with paste, which fixes the resulting material. Next comes the stage of drying and coating with polyurethane, acrylic or other substance.

It is quite clear that this is being done to save raw materials and reduce the cost of products. It’s one thing to make a product from a single piece of leather, and quite another to make it from shredded leather waste. At the same time, “pressed leather” has all the properties of synthetic leather. This is a non-woven base on which a layer is applied that imitates the outer surface of the skin. This skin does not breathe well and does not allow moisture and air to pass through. In addition, it is not wear-resistant and brittle. The material is made as similar as possible to natural leather; it is difficult to determine by eye. Company "RAT" never used similar tricks in the production of all types of their shoes. All safety shoes produced are made only from high-quality materials - the main rule of the company.

One of the many examples of using this rule: for food, medical, chemical and electronic production with metal base, made using artificial leather "Microfiber". This is a stylish, high-quality and durable material; Waterproof leather is wear-resistant, does not absorb water and dirt, and is easy to use and care for. Made from silicone and polyurethane. Microfiber leather is used only for certain types of safety shoes. This material is unfriendly to the growth of microorganisms and is suitable for frequent washing in a washing machine. Thanks to all these qualities, sandals are highly valued by our customers throughout Russia.

Humanity has been using natural leather since ancient times. Depending on its production, the following types are distinguished:

• raw;
• rawhide;
• tanned.

Today the most common is tanned leather. There are several tanning methods. Both one separate method and a combined one are used. In addition, GOST divides natural leather into hard and soft.

Material characteristics

Yuft is a genuine leather made by combined tanning. The raw materials for it are the skins of cows, bulls, horses, and pigs. Yuft is a soft leather.

The properties of the material depend on the type and quality of the raw material, as well as the method of its processing. If the raw material is the skin of cows and bulls, then the tanned leather is called cowhide. The material is taken from the belly of nulliparous cows and yearling bulls.

Yufta, made from pig skin, is less durable compared to cowhide and horse leather. Therefore, the standards for pigskin are softer.

Features of the material

Yuft was called “Russian leather”. In the 19th century, it was highly prized abroad because it was the only tanned leather that was treated with a mixture of birch tar and seal oil. As a result, insects could not damage it and it did not mold. To produce yufti, heavy fatliquoring is used, so that the mass fraction of fat in it reaches 25% of the total mass.

In Russia, there is a state standard that specifies all the characteristics that yuft must meet.

Of all the natural materials, yuft has no equal in thickness. There is an opinion that if clothing made from this leather touches a nail, the nail will fly out sooner than the clothing will tear.

The tanned yuft leather comes in various colors. The most popular color is black.

According to their application, the following types of yuft are distinguished:

• shoe;
• sandal

Shoe type

The shoe type is most often used to create the upper part of shoes, boots, boots. Natural material It has a very dense structure, so shoes made from it are incredibly resistant to wear. But it is quite elastic due to the large amount of fat. All these characteristics allow this type to be used to create shoes for all military and security structures. In the photo you can see soldiers' boots made of yuft leather - berets.

You can also find yuft leather from combined material. The material consists of yuft and tarpaulin - an artificial substitute for pig skin. High-quality genuine leather is used to make those elements that are most heavily loaded when walking, and tarpaulin is used to decorate the tops of boots and the tops of boots. Shoes made from combined materials are more affordable.

The shoe type is used not only for army shoes, but also for work shoes. Yufta boots are perfect for industry with difficult conditions. Their top is impregnated with a special compound that protects against oil, water and gasoline. The feet are equipped with a metal insert, and the toe of the shoe has a steel or thermoplastic overlay. In such boots, your feet will not sweat much in hot workshops.

Yufta boots are used by those who work a lot in difficult natural conditions: the properties of leather are such that shoes made from it do not get wet. This applies to geological exploration, oil industry, installation, construction and road works.

Sandal type

The sandal type is very different from the shoe type. If for footwear they take the highest quality cowhide, obtained from the skins of cows and bulls, then the sandal type is made mainly from pig and horse leather. This leather is thinner than shoe leather.

The front side is brought to a glossy finish by sanding, and all areas with relief are removed. The sandal type is only suitable for dry conditions, as it repels moisture worse than shoe type. This is due to the lower fat content in it (two times lower). But the sandal type is a breathable material, so your feet are quite comfortable in such shoes. The top of sandals is made from sandal material, which gives it its name. Clogs and multi-colored models of medical workers, lung workers, Food Industry, cleaning companies are often made from sandal-type leather.

Characteristics of crust material

The word "crust" is translated from English as "bark" or "crust". Crust is characterized by amazing strength and elasticity. To obtain similar properties, the raw materials are soaked in water and treated with wood smoke. Then it is subjected to a liming procedure, as a result of which the wool is removed.

Crust is characterized by the use of drum dyeing. The front side of the leather is not processed. The natural pattern is preserved, and the crust acquires water-repellent properties. Therefore, the material is perfect for creating demi-season and winter shoes.

Crust is often called haberdashery leather. It is not only strong and durable, but also malleable. Crust is easy to process, so it has found wide application.

This material is used to make:

• furniture;
• women's and men's bags;
• shoes (mostly the uppers of shoes are made from crust; after hydrophobic treatment the shoes become especially strong);
• items for stationery and office (diaries, business card holders, etc.);
• hunting and combat equipment (holsters, backpacks, etc.);
• riding equipment (saddles, harnesses, etc.).

Crust and yuft leather are natural raw materials that are particularly durable. They are perfect for making safety shoes, military and work models.

Currently, we are very actively purchasing goods from online stores. Often, a buyer is attracted by the price on sale; colorful photographs make them take out a credit card and pay for the goods. However, as popular wisdom says: “If you hurry, you will make people laugh!” In order to be guaranteed to receive a product of exactly the quality that the buyer expects, it is necessary not only to carefully study the product from the photo and fluently read the description, but also to have some theoretical knowledge that will help to avoid annoying mistakes and wasteful expenses.

Today we will talk about leather goods, more precisely about the material itself - leather. Man has been using leather in everyday life since ancient times. After one or another processing method, the animal skin could be used either as fur product, or one or another type of skin. Clothes, shoes, equipment, covers and some parts for weapons, as well as some elements of military armor, were made from leather.

Leather is a strong and durable material. It has good protective properties, is elastic and durable with proper care. Aesthetically attractive, it can give things both a sophisticated elegant and a reliable, rugged appearance. The science of leatherwork has continuously developed and improved over the centuries. There are many methods of tanning and processing leather, about which a lot of specialized literature has been written. Like any other area of ​​human activity, leather production uses its own special terminology, which is also used in the description of goods in the store.

Genuine Leather

• Classic cattle leathers:

Cowhide ( Bull leather , Steerhide ) – very dense, tough, durable leather with a thickness of 2.5 to 5 mm. Durable, wear-resistant, practically insensitive to moisture. Used for the manufacture of haberdashery goods (bags, purses, backpacks, belts in ethnic, “country” and “crazy” styles), jackets, travel and special footwear (boots, ankle boots, boots), as well as decorative and gift items (from book bindings to key chains and hairpins).

An example of a leather jacket made from cowhide. The photo shows the thickness of the leather and its characteristic texture.

Buffalo leather ( Buffalo leather ) – the densest, toughest and heaviest of natural leathers with a thickness of 0.9 to 3 mm with a characteristic “coarse-grained” (or “crumpled”) texture of the front surface. Resistant to moisture and mechanical damage. It is used similarly to cowhide, but is much less common and more expensive. Very popular in the manufacture of jackets and accessories for bikers.

An example of a buffalo leather bag.

Cowhide ( Cowhide , neat " s leather ) – plastic, elastic, durable leather with an impressive natural texture on the front side. It accepts various types of dressing, processing and coloring well. Allows you to obtain a significant range of leather materials of various colors and textures, including elite and exclusive ones. It has a wide range of applications, including: sewing clothes, shoes and haberdashery, upholstery of furniture, upholstery and decoration of car interiors, residential and office premises, manufacturing of decorative and gift items.

Cowhide from the American leather company Horween.

An example of a handmade belt from cowhide. Product from the Japanese platform Rakuten.

Cow's skin (WITHow leather ) - durable leather, less thick and stiff than bovine leather. It has a pleasant natural texture and is wear-resistant. Used for the manufacture of haberdashery goods, outerwear, shoes and accessories in a moderate price range.

Women's bag made of cow leather. Mass production. China.

Calfskin ( Calfskin , calf , veal ) – thin, soft, plastic, silky to the touch leather, has a natural “breathable” structure, high strength and wear resistance. The characteristics, uses, and costs of calfskin vary depending on the age of the animals. Calf leather milk age(up to 6 months) – opoek– drapes perfectly and holds its shape, has high elasticity and resistance to deformation. High-quality clothing and accessories are made from it. Skin of calves up to one year of age - outgrowth– thicker, less elastic and used for the manufacture of high-quality shoes, bags and other haberdashery products and accessories. The toughest and densest skin is that of calves up to 18 months of age. It is used for making quality shoes, bags, suitcases and various souvenirs, as well as in interior design.

Italian gloves Calfskin. Shop epauletnewyork.

• Classic leathers from the skins of domestic and wild animals:

Horse leather ( Horsehide , Horse leather ) – fairly dense, high-strength leather of medium plasticity, requiring quite a long processing time to achieve quality. Used for the manufacture of high-quality men's outerwear, hats, shoes, accessories, as well as natural upholstery and lining materials.

A modern replica of an American flight jacket from the Second World War from the company Aeroleatherclothing.

Some jackets made from such leather are recommended to be specially shrunk (much like a pair of raw denim jeans) and then broken in. If anyone is interested, here are the instructions.

Goatskin (Goat skin /leather) – delicate and soft, very thin and durable, has a unique wave-like pattern, is quite waterproof, retains heat well, is plastic and elastic. Used to make high quality elegant accessories and light outerwear.

Leather jacket made of goatskin from an American company Alpha Industries.

Deerskin ( Deerskin , Deer leather, doeskin , buckskin ) – elastic, durable, velvety, retains its shape well even with frequent changes in temperature and humidity. During the dressing process, it is treated with animal fats, retains heat well, and protects from wind and moisture. As a rule, it is used for the manufacture of men's shoes, briefcases, bags, gloves and other accessories, less often for sewing outerwear.

For example, here is a bag from an American company, known for its very attentive attitude to materials and details.

The characteristic texture of the material is visible here.

Sometimes deerskin, with the help of special processing, can, on the contrary, be quite tough. For example, Indian-made deerskin Parflech, is characterized as quite tough. Currently used for the manufacture of accessories in ethnic style. Term Parflech It is also used for similar processing of elk and buffalo leather.

Moose skin (Elk Skin) – elegant, durable, silky to the touch leather, similar in properties to deer leather, but has a slightly more porous structure. Used for sewing men's outerwear and accessories.

This is what the details of a hunting jacket made of elk leather look like.

The use of elk leather in FBT moccasins from the iconic Japanese manufacturer Visvim.

Here you can see the texture of the leather and the hand stitching used by the craftsman.

Sheepskin - sheep skin (Sheepskin) – flexible, soft, elastic skin, with high extensibility. It is perfectly processed and retains its desired shape. Considered one of the the best materials for the production of high-quality fashion clothing, hats and accessories.

Men's jacket from the site amazon.co.uk.

Pigskin (Pigskin) – quite thin and light leather with a characteristic large-porous texture. It accepts dressing and coloring well, but is not durable or water resistant. Used for the mass production of inexpensive haberdashery goods, clothing, shoes, accessories, upholstery and lining materials.

Wallet made of pigskin. Area Ebay.

Case for penknife made of pigskin.

• Exotic leathers:

Crocodile skin ( Crocodile skin / leather ) – characterized by noble beauty, complex, time-consuming and labor-intensive processing, strength, elasticity, absolute resistance to moisture and dirt, and very high cost. Based on raw materials, properties and price, they are divided into: leather cayman ( Caiman skin / leather ) – more rigid and less durable; actual crocodile skin and leather alligator ( Alligator skin / leather ) . Footwear, clothing, haberdashery and accessories made of crocodile leather are made primarily by hand by the highest class craftsmen and adorn the collections of the world's leading designers.

Wallet made of crocodile skin.

Watch bracelet made of crocodile leather. Handmade by the Japanese manufactory KC"S.

Snake skin ( Snakeskin , Snake leather ) – smooth and elastic, with fantastic patterns and textures, strong, durable and perfectly resistant to various types of dressing, processing and coloring. The most popular leather python ( Python skin / leather ) And cobras ( Cobra skin / leather ) . Snakeskin is used to make shoes, clothing and accessories, giving even the smallest item originality and uniqueness.

Wallet in cowboy style made of snake skin.

Ostrich leather ( Ostrich skin / leather ) – dense, flexible, quite durable leather, has a very impressive texture of the front surface. One of the most popular materials in the collections of many famous designers. Used for the manufacture of shoes, outerwear, haberdashery items, decorative elements and interior decoration.

Ostrich leather gloves. The characteristic texture is visible.

Kangaroo leather ( Kangaroo skin / leather ) – plastic and springy, light and durable, has high breathability and hygroscopicity, perfectly retains its properties and shape in finished products. Used for sewing clothes, shoes, including sports shoes, haberdashery and accessories.

Hiking boots made of kangaroo leather from an American brand.

Shark skin ( Shark skin / leather ) – is considered the most durable among natural leathers, while being light and elastic. In its natural state it is covered with very hard and sharp scales, which are quite difficult to remove. Shoes, outerwear, haberdashery items and various accessories, decorative elements and souvenirs are made from shark skin.

Shark skin wallet, handmade. Japan.

Stingray skin ( Stingray skin / leather ) – has a very attractive fine-grained texture of the front surface, is very durable and difficult to manufacture and process, but is waterproof, resistant to dirt and does not require special care. It is used to make high-quality outerwear, shoes, haberdashery and accessories, decorative elements and even women's jewelry.

Iphone case made of stingray leather.

Methods of tanning, dyeing and finishing leather

Crust ( Krust ) – a general designation for dense leathers with a preserved natural grain surface, obtained primarily from the hides of cattle.

Such leathers undergo chrome or chrome-free tanning and are subjected to top or through dyeing. To protect from moisture, the front surface of the crust is treated natural wax, while maintaining the natural breathability of the skin. Crust is used for the manufacture of shoes, haberdashery and office products, furniture upholstery, the manufacture of goods for riding (saddles, harnesses) and special-purpose goods (sheaths, bags, holsters, etc.). Products made from trust are durable; with prolonged use in places of bends and constant friction, they acquire a darker color (patination) and the effect of natural aging.

Vegan– crust tanned with substances of natural (vegetable) origin.

Both cattle hides and pig skins are used to produce the vegan product. Vegan is used to make decorative and gift items, accessories and household items in ethnic, “country” and “crazy” styles, elements of traditional costumes, goods for riding (saddles, harnesses) and special-purpose items (sheaths, game bags, holsters, etc. .) self made.

Smooth skin- a general designation for high-quality and elite leathers with a natural grain surface, obtained from calf, goat and sheep leather, the skin of young cows and bulls, in rare cases - from pig and foal skin.

The front surface of smooth leather is not processed at all or undergoes minimal refinement by spraying wax, resin or paint, sometimes using light dust embossing. Smooth leather is flexible, retains natural breathability, and, like crust, is prone to natural patination during use. They are used for sewing clothes and shoes of the highest class, making accessories, haberdashery and gift items, prestigious furniture, decorating and finishing interiors.

Aniline leather (Aniline leather ) – smooth premium leather, with a thin, non-pigmented protective shell applied to the painted surface. Poorly protected from external influences, most prone to patination.

Semi-aniline and aniline-plus leather ( Semi - aniline leather ) – aniline leather with additional coating of pigments and dyes. A little tougher and lower quality, however, more resistant to external influences.

Skin with corrected facial surface ( Corrected grain leather ) – semi-aniline leather, subjected to multi-stage processing until the front surface is perfectly aligned, applied with a polymer coating and light embossing. Tougher and lower quality than semi-aniline leather, but has reliable protection from moisture and dirt.

Nappa (Nappa leather ) – soft and elastic semi-aniline leather with a corrected grain surface with a thickness of 0.5 to 1 mm, made from sheepskin and cattle hides. The hides are subjected to double tanning and various types of additional processing to give various decorative effects. Nappa is used to make hats, outerwear and lightweight clothing, haberdashery, various accessories and decorative elements.

Velor leather) – soft and flexible leather with short, thick hair. Velor is made from dense, small skins of pigs and cattle, by chrome tanning followed by sanding the front or back side of the skin. “Front” velor is obtained by grinding the front side of the skin (merei), “bakhtarmy” velor is obtained by grinding the back side of the skin (bakhtarma). The front side of “bakhtarmy” velor is polished. Velor is not durable and resistant to moisture and dirt. Used for the production of outerwear, shoes and haberdashery. To increase water resistance and service life, velor must be subjected to additional processing, and products made from it must be carefully cared for.

Suede (chamois leather) – soft, thin, durable, well-stretchable velvety leather, with thick short pile without shine on both sides. Made from fat tanned leather, processed on both sides. It has a porous structure, perfectly permeates water and air, retains its shape and properties when wet and after drying. Suede is resistant to temperature changes and some caustic substances, does not cause allergic reactions. High-quality suede is obtained from the feather dust, skins of young deer, elk, goats and sheep and is used for the manufacture of clothing, linen, hats, light dress shoes, orthopedic products, various accessories and decorations. From the skins of adult sheep and deer, technical and rubbing suede is obtained, which are used in industry.

Laika ( kidskin , dogskin ) – thin elastic leather of light pastel colors, with a perfectly smooth outer surface. Laika is made from both classic types of raw materials - the skins of lambs, kids, foals and dogs, and from non-traditional ones - the skins of cats and rats. The skins are tanned using chrome, chrome-fat or aluminum tanning. Despite its softness and tenderness, husky is quite durable and wear-resistant. Mainly used for making gloves, decorative items and jewelry, much less often in making lightweight shoes and haberdashery. Laika does not tolerate moisture well, and after drying it loses its shape and properties. Laika products require proper care.

Nubuck (nubuk) – exquisite leather with very fine pile on front side, has a porous “breathing” structure and fairly high strength. Unlike suede, it is made from denser cattle hides, subjected to chrome tanning and sanding only on the front side. It is mainly used for the manufacture of men's, women's and children's shoes and as a furniture material, less often for sewing outerwear. In order for nubuck products to last longer and maintain their appearance, they require careful care with special products.

Nubuck-oil (nubuk-oil) – nubuck with additional fat impregnation. It has a characteristic oily surface and a slightly vintage look, but is practically insensitive to moisture and is easy to clean. Shoes made from nubuck oil are more practical and durable.

Crazy (Crazy leather) - Exquisite leather with an elegant matte finish and a pull-up effect. Unlike nubuck, after sanding it undergoes a special stretching treatment and a wax coating. This treatment gives the effect of lightening and “floating” the color in places where the skin is stretched. It is also used for making shoes and as a furniture material.

Morocco ( Morocco leather) – quality leather specially made, stamped and painted in juicy bright colors. Made from sheep and calf leather, it is highly durable, resistant to dirt and mechanical damage, and has an elegant, rich appearance. Used for making stylish bags and accessories, decorative items and jewelry.

Split (Split leather) – natural leather material obtained by mechanical separation – sanding – of natural leather into layers, usually from 3 to 6 layers. Chromium and chrome-fat leathers of cattle and pigs are subjected to exfoliation. By lamination, the front, middle and back (bakhtarmyan) splits are obtained. Thin face splits are used to produce high-quality haberdashery and photo leather. Thick front and middle splits form split velor, used for the manufacture of technical footwear, workwear and for the manufacture of furniture leather. Small splits and trimmings are used to make glue and technical gelatin.

Shagreen (shagreen leather) – dense leather with a decorative convex-grained texture of the front surface made of untanned leather. It was made from the saddle cloth of horses and kulans and painted in green color. Nowadays it is made from sheep and goat skin. Used primarily for decorative consumer goods and as industrial leather.

Galisha (French galuchat) – shagreen obtained from the skins of stingrays and sharks, which have a natural granular structure. It is used to make shoes, outerwear, haberdashery items and various accessories, decorative elements and souvenirs.

Kid (fr. chevreau, English . kidskin ) – soft, light, dense leather with a peculiar wavy pattern on the front surface. Traditionally, chevreau was made from thin chrome-tanned dairy goat skins and had properties similar to husky. Nowadays it is made from sheep, lamb and calf skins. Chevro is inelastic, waterproof and breathable. Thanks to your protective properties is one of the best materials for sewing shoes. It is also used to make various haberdashery items, decorative elements and souvenirs.

Chevrette (Chevrette leather) - elastic, viscous, dense and loose leather obtained from young sheepskin by chrome tanning. The pattern of the front surface resembles chevro, but is much less durable and of poorer quality. Used for the manufacture of outerwear, shoes and haberdashery. To increase strength, loose chevrette is treated with polymer and other materials. A more durable type of chevrette, better suited for sewing shoes, is obtained from the skins of sheep of coarse-wool steppe breeds.

Cordovan ( Cordovan ) – durable, strong, elastic exclusive vegetable tanned leather with a shiny smooth front surface. It is made from separate sections of horse hide by very long hand-dressing (about 6 months). Cordovan is waterproof, durable, easy to clean, for a long time retains shine. Used for sewing exclusive men's shoes.

Famous Indy boots from the American company Alden.

Artificial substitutes for natural leather

Leather MF ( Microfiber synthetic leather ) – an artificial substitute for genuine leather based on microfiber - the finest synthetic microfibers of polyester and polyamide. Microfiber (MF) is characterized by lightness and high strength, it is plastic and springy, resistant to light and chemicals, allows the formation of materials of various structures, including textiles and knitwear, and does not accumulate static electricity. MF leathers have excellent water resistance and breathability, are resistant to abrasion, retain color and shape well during long-term use, are easy to clean and do not absorb dirt, have virtually no odor of their own and do not perceive foreign odors.

MF leathers are almost indistinguishable from genuine leather in appearance. This effect is achieved through high-quality imitation of the texture of the front and reverse side skin. MF leathers are free from congenital and acquired surface defects characteristic of natural leathers. When making MF leather, you can obtain almost any texture, color, and decorative effects on rolled material of various widths.

MF leathers are used for casual and sports shoes, as well as furniture and automotive leathers. The use of MF leather allows us to save the lives of animals raised for their natural leather.

PU leather ( Polyurethane leather ) – a high-tech multi-layer product based on defective genuine leather. The damaged outer layer of genuine leather is replaced with ultra-fine fibers made of high-quality polyurethane (PU) - this is how PU leather is obtained. PU leather has through pores and the properties of a “breathable” and hygroscopic material, is lightweight, resistant to mechanical stress, and tolerates well low temperatures. PU leather manufacturing technology allows you to obtain the front layer of any colors and textures without compromising the breathability and ductility of the material. Often, products made from PU leather look more attractive than those made from genuine leather.

PU leather is used to make elegant outerwear and lightweight clothing, dress and sports shoes, haberdashery, jewelry and decorative items, as well as furniture and automotive leathers.

Camera case made of Polyurethane leather

PVC leather, vinyl leather ( Polyvinyl chloride, Vinyl synthetic leather ) – material made of monolithic or porous polyvinyl chloride (PVC) applied to a fiber base. The basis of vinyl artificial leather can be fabric, knitwear, various types of non-woven materials made from natural or synthetic fibers. The properties of vinyl artificial leather for a specific purpose - strength, flexibility, extensibility, springiness, fluidity, drape - are ensured by the use of various base materials. The density of vinyl artificial leather is given by impregnation with polymer compositions. Thus, by varying the bases and additional processing methods, it is possible to obtain vinyl artificial leather with any predetermined properties. Vinyl leather is waterproof, resistant to abrasion, retains its color and shape well during long-term use, is easy to clean and does not absorb dirt, has no odor of its own and does not perceive foreign odors.

Vinyl leather is used for the manufacture of elegant outerwear and lightweight clothing, youth fashionable clothing, underwear, dress and sports shoes, haberdashery, accessories, jewelry and decorative elements, as well as furniture and automobile leather.

Eco leather (Eco leather) – material made of microporous “breathable” polyurethane applied to fabric base from natural or polyester materials. Unique material having everything best qualities genuine leather and free from its shortcomings. It has excellent hygienic properties, does not require special care, is durable, lightweight and wear-resistant. Visually indistinguishable from genuine leather. As the thickness of the polyurethane layer increases, the quality and performance properties improve, but the hardness of the eco-leather also increases.

It is used for sewing clothes and linen, dress and sports shoes, haberdashery, accessories, household items, jewelry and decorative elements, as well as furniture and automobile leather.

• Special artificial substitutes skin:

Faux suede (Artificial chamois) – textile imitation of natural suede, material made of cotton and polyester fibers on an adhesive basis. To protect against moisture and contamination, the material is coated with Teflon coating. To impart rigidity, the material is laminated on one side - subjected to high-temperature gluing to the substrate. Retains its shape and properties when washed and after drying, is resistant to temperature changes, and does not cause allergic reactions. In appearance it differs little from its natural counterpart, but is more durable and does not require special care. It is used for hats, lightweight inexpensive shoes and various accessories, car interior trim, as well as in the production of furniture.

Artificial nubuck (Artificial nubuck leather, Synthetic nubuck leather ) – imitation natural nubuck made of PU leather. In appearance it is almost no different from its natural counterpart, it is more resistant to moisture and dirt, and does not require special care. Mainly used for making shoes, haberdashery and accessories.

Patent faux leather (Synthetic patent leather) – artificial leather with the front surface coated with varnish. Made from all types of artificial leather. With high quality, it is in no way inferior to natural analogues, but is cheaper and less demanding in care. Varnish artificial leather is used for tailoring clothes, hats, haberdashery and accessories, making men's, women's and children's dress shoes, interior decoration, as well as in the production of furniture. Quality depends on the manufacturer and type of material.

Stretch leather (Synthetic stretch l weather) - thin, elastic, springy material. Made from all types of artificial leather. Stretch vinyl artificial leather and eco-leather are more common. It is used for sewing clothes, concert costumes and various accessories. Looks impressive and does not require special care. Quality depends on the manufacturer and type of material.

Leather print (Synthetic p rinted leather) – material with a pattern applied by one or a combination of different methods. Made from all types of artificial leather. When making leather prints, embossing, engraving, applying various inclusions, varnishing and many other techniques can be used. Artificial leather prints are significantly superior in range to their natural counterparts.

Perforated leather (Perforated s synthetic leather) – material with holes cut or punched through its entire surface. Made from all types of artificial leather. It is used in making shoes, outerwear, haberdashery and accessories, in the production of furniture and car finishing.

Leather with embroidery ( Embroidered s synthetic leather ) - material with patterns embroidered on the front surface. Made from all types of artificial leather, except PU leather. Unlike natural analogues, artificial leather can be easily processed in industrial and household sewing machines. The range of artificial leather embroidered with complex patterns, lace and ribbons is very large. Artificial leather with embroidery are very widely used in tailoring clothes, hats, accessories, interior decoration and furniture making.

Examples of descriptions of leather goods in stores

Now let's try to move from theory to practice. We will try to look at different products in stores and try to apply what we have learned.

For example, let's look at the description of these boots in the popular LLbean store.

The description clearly states the use of bison leather without any tricks.

By zooming in on the photo we can see the texture of the skin.

Let's look at the bomber jacket from Alpha Industries. The description also clearly indicates the use of natural sheepskin.

Boots Dr. martens 1461. The description clearly indicates the synthetic origin of the materials. However, these boots are unlikely to be of poor quality.

Sometimes in stores information about materials is not given explicitly. Terms such as "Premium leather" may be used. At the same time, anything can be meant by this term. From any type of genuine leather to regular leatherette with some kind of processing. As a rule, stock stores with discounted goods are not very scrupulous in these matters. For example, here are women's boots from the 6pm store. The description doesn't say anything about the leather itself, it just says "Premium".

Therefore, it is advisable to make purchases in such stores when a person already knows the product he is buying and has an idea about it.

Conclusion

I hope that this material was interesting and useful for readers of the resource.

Now, reading the description of a particular product, the buyer will be more interested in the material and pay less attention to the marketing gimmicks of some stores.

Having replenished his baggage of “consumer” knowledge with the above information, a person will be able to understand the product being purchased much better, having greater erudition, he will be able to pass by something with a calm soul, and become quite reasonably interested in something. Perhaps someone will approach purchases much more consciously, not buying things of mediocre quality, just because of the price at sales. Knowing about the properties and characteristics of a particular type of leather, a person will be able to choose a product that will most fully meet the buyer’s requirements. In the end, there is no such thing as “harmful” knowledge :)

34 comments

• After a recent review, in addition to my disagreement with its author, I wondered, but in some ways the author of the review is right, how does the average person know that “Premium leather” is not what it seems at first glance :-)

  Therefore, I asked Dmitry to understand this difficult issue both for himself and for our readers. In my opinion, the article turned out to be good and comprehensive. I’ll definitely keep it in my bookmarks and use it as a cheat sheet.

  Dmitry, thank you very much :-)