Permanent hair waving: essence, pros and cons. All about permanent hair curling

The art of a woman to transform can be the envy of any secret agent: today she is platinum blonde with carefully straightened hair, a month later - makes eyes handsome man in a cafe, straightening her shiny chestnut curls, and six months later turns into an exotic beauty with African braids up to the waist… The desire to change is inside us, and in no case should it be restrained!

Masters of the beauty salon "Magenta" advise how to bring to life the most desired and pleasant reincarnations. The spring-summer season is a time of carelessness, light dresses and air curls. So today we are going to talk about perm or, as professionals call it - permanent waving, texturing. Tatyana Iskhakova, a fashion designer at the Magenta hair salon, an international teacher, will tell you how to achieve persistent curls while maintaining the health of your hair.

- Surely every owner of straight hair deep down dreams of having a cascade of curls, and a woman with curly hair wants to fix them. Finally, we can offer our customers a perm procedure based on new generation preparations and technologies, thus satisfying the desire of the most demanding women. In our salon, we use compositions developed by the Shiseido laboratory (Japan) and produced by the American corporation Zotos.

- Please tell us more about these permanent waving products. How are they different from traditional ones?

- Texturizing preparations ISO is a complete complex of products that allow you to change the shape of the hair without damaging it. It contains isoamine, a positively charged component. Hair has a negative charge, so isoamine easily penetrates into their structure. The result is elastic, healthy and natural curls.
ISO introduces four perms, two texturizers and a straightener for curly hair. We offer our clients big choice types of curls and levels of styling fixation. We can do it permanent waving even on dyed or highlighted hair. Modern compositions do not change pigmentation, as it happened before. If your hair has grown back after a perm, with our new products we can make "chemistry for chemistry". My clients have been perming for several years and their curls look great. Others do not even realize that by nature they have straight hair.

- It is known that perm can provoke allergies ...

- Yes, I know about it. But the compositions we use do not cause allergic reactions either in clients or in masters. I can say to myself that I am allergic and before coming to the Magenta salon I refused to perform perms, because after each procedure I had to take pills. With ISO products, I work without gloves, sometimes I even do a few perms a day - and no allergies!

What advice would you give to those whose unruly hair do not allow permanent waving?

Even if you already have a bad experience - do not despair. Now, by applying special means, Can tame the most shrew hair and make a beautiful curl along the entire length. For very long hair we offer a composition that includes a thermal activator, thanks to which uniform curls are obtained from roots to ends.

- Which additional features does this line open for permanent waving?

- If you just want add volume to hair artistic mess (broken curls), we can offer you long-term styling which lasts 4 to 6 weeks.

Finally, you have decided to get a perm! We invite you to free consultation to our salon "Magenta", where the master will assess the condition of your hair and give you professional recommendations.

- Is it possible to do texturing on dry, brittle or recolored hair?

If your hair is not ready for a perm, we have a procedure in the salon - thermotreatment (we talked about it in the last issue), which restores hair "from the inside to the surface." Immediately before curling, you can do special procedure hair cleansing from ISO, as a result of which residues will be removed styling products, salt, chlorine, mineral deposits, leading to uneven formation of curls and deterioration of the hair.

- What form of curls are obtained as a result of the texturing procedure?

- Thanks to a variety of winding technologies that allow you to create curls different shapes and size, as well as various means for styling, you can choose the image that will most harmoniously match your mood: romantic or sexy, frivolous or energetic.

- How to care for hair after changing its texture?

- For hair care with permanent waving, we can offer you Shiseido products - these are shampoos and conditioners for curls, styling products from the ISO and Multiplisity lines. You can buy them directly in the salon "Magenta".

Let yourself be happy and enjoy your own appearance!

Permanent waving is often called "chemistry" , since a long-term change in the texture of the hair (it can be naturally smooth, wavy or curly) became possible only thanks to chemical compounds that, penetrating inside the rod, change its structure and make the hair soft and pliable. To create something, you must first destroy something. This principle underlies any perm and is the reason for the increasingly rare, shall we say, failures. The fact is that in the hair there is a so-called. sulfur bridges that hold the hair in one position (straight or curly). The task of the perm hairdresser is to first destroy these "bridges", to give them new form(by winding it on curlers or bobbins), and then fix it with a retainer. So the hair takes on a new texture.

Certainly, full recovery hair does not occur, they lose their normal structure, so you should not believe the statements that perm has a good effect on hair and can be done at least every month. But do not listen to the ill-wishers of "chemistry", who claim that she is guilty of hair loss. Experts are sure that this is not so. Chemical compounds are unable to penetrate the scalp, so they do not destroy hair follicle and do not interfere with hair growth. Modern formulations also do not cause serious harm to hair color (they give very slight discoloration). thin, weak hair they can start to split and break a little more than usual, and become drier, but in general, when using high-quality gentle compositions, “chemistry” is not terrible for hair.

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to create the hairstyle you need suitable base- hair of the wrong quality, structure, length. In this case, it is the perm that helps to achieve desired result, and modern "chemistry" allows you to create a curl of any intensity: from soft waves in the spirit of the 50s to African curls.

The most popular now can be called american chemistry, allowing you to create large curls. They look very feminine, require little to no styling and are ideal for those who are going to wear "chemistry" as an independent hairstyle. This perm is done using special Olivia Garden curlers (that's how the technology itself is called), which are attached to each other, creating complex structures on the head. Curlers do not leave creases on the hair, and their arrangement corresponds to future hairstyle. American "chemistry" is suitable for hair of any length, but looks especially good on hair flowing below the shoulders.

The second most popular method of curling is radically different from it. For it are used veloformers- special devices developed by Wella last year, which can be considered a revolutionary discovery in the technique of curling. For the first time, hair is not wound on curlers, but curls itself, as if from the inside. The strands are placed in stretched narrow latex pouches, which are compressed, laying the hair in soft rings. As a result, soft waves are automatically formed that add volume to any hairstyle, create a “broken hair effect” and a styling base. The method saves time and is considered the most gentle for the hair. This perm lasts one and a half to two months. The only limitation is that veloformers can only be used on hair 20-45 centimeters long, and the strands always remain straight at the roots.
The classic perm on curlers has also not lost its relevance. .

TOP STAR appliances Wella firms - curlers are available in different diameters and, depending on this, allow you to create additional volume, a soft wave or large curls - perfect option for a short haircut: just lightly dry your hair with a hairdryer - and a lush, neat hairstyle is ready.

Recommended for long hair vertical or spiral "chemistry" (especially loved by young people), which creates an elastic, rather steep curl. For her, thin, vertically arranged curlers are used.

End curling and root curling are less common techniques. This is explained by the fact that the hair grows too quickly and the curling effect does not last long. In addition, it is almost impossible to get rid of the border that has appeared, separating the curled sections of the hair and emphasizing the artificiality of the wave. Nevertheless, these methods have their adherents. Most often, they are resorted to by owners of soft, thin or sparse hair trimmed with steps. "Chemistry" on the ends of the hair is used as a base to create a splendor effect: the strands are "pulled out" with a hair dryer, giving them a small volume.

based on classical technologies and application techniques, offers of professional lines allow you to create many variations on the theme of "perm". The difference lies in the compositions themselves and the methods of their application (for example, french bubble chemistry). A striking example is the way silk wave"performed with classic curlers and a preparation with silk proteins: they normalize the condition of the hair and make it silky. Correctly done perm allows you to achieve a curl of medium hardness (easy styling and naturalness) and is suitable for hair middle length. It is believed that this method does not harm even repeatedly colored or bleached hair.

In general, a lot depends on the drugs used: using the same curlers and different drugs, you can get completely different curl intensity. Many women do not trust gentle formulations that keep curls for one to two months. But in vain. Firstly, curling them does not spoil the hair, and secondly, there is no effect of "overgrown roots". "Chemistry" looks more natural and disappears completely imperceptibly. In addition, all curling formulations are produced taking into account the type and condition of the hair.
A new generation of products (for example, PERFORM HAIRSCAN from Wella) contains active frizzing substances and caring substances, which, after application of the composition, are independently distributed over the areas of hair that need them. This allows you to create an elastic and uniform curl from the roots to the ends of the hair. A novelty from L,Oreal is a foamy lotion that covers the head like a cap. It minimally injures the hair and forms natural curls.

The haircut on which the perm is performed is also important. A luxurious lion's mane of curls can be obtained on hair cut in a cascade (that is, the strands located on top should be shorter than those below). This is due to the fact that the hair stretches under its own weight and only the ends are really curly (and not just wavy). In addition, "chemistry" looks good only on healthy and thick hair. (Waving - good way hide some flaws. If, for example, to focus on the bangs, then you can create the impression of a more oblong face).

Perm for hairdressers is a specific procedure. It takes much more time than a haircut or simple coloring, is difficult to perform and requires a lot of experience. In addition, the chemical compounds constantly inhaled by the master and falling into his hands are unlikely to contribute to the love of this procedure on the part of hairdressers.

In addition, perm, like any procedure, has its own contraindications. Much depends on the structure of the hair. If a week before that you drastically lightened your hair, or are accustomed to changing their color every month, or have already done "chemistry" some time ago, masters do not recommend curling your hair. Indeed, why an excessive load on already exhausted hair ?! During menstruation, the hair becomes less elastic, so you should not do a perm. If you have dyed your hair with henna or some other natural dyes, you can be sure that not a single master will undertake a perm. The fact is that henna clogs into hair scales, prevents the penetration of other substances (including curling ones). Most likely, "chemistry" simply will not work, and the condition of the hair may worsen. Poor-quality henna (fakes containing salts of certain metals) can generally lead to surprises: hair turns green, warms up to 60-70 degrees under the chemical composition.

It is not recommended to do "chemistry" on streaked or dyed hair: in dyed and natural strands unequal structure, so it is difficult to choose a preparation for waving. True, it is now very fashionable to combine straight and curled strands. different colors- for example, dark straight lines, and on top of them there are several light curls. (You can also highlight hair after "chemistry", but not earlier than after three weeks.)

Pregnancy, taking morphine, antibiotics, and chemotherapy can also affect the quality of the curl. However, these factors are contraindications for almost any cosmetic session.

Important note: the result of the curl is affected by the use of shampoos "2 in 1". They contain silicone, which prevents the penetration of chemical composition into the hair. Therefore, a month before the planned procedure, it is better to refuse such cocktails, changing to shampoo and conditioner from the same series.

Experts do not recommend doing a home perm. The fact is that for modern professional "chemistry" not only curl-forming and fixing compositions are used (which are included in the "home-made" curling kits), but also a lot of means to achieve best result without damage to the hair. In addition, the inability to properly and quickly wind the hair can lead to the fact that the curl will be uneven, with creases or burnt. And there is no question of any naturalness here. It is difficult to calculate and the time of the procedure - take into account individual characteristics your hair can only be done by an experienced specialist. If you leave the composition longer than necessary, it will burn your hair, and if you underdo it, the work is in vain, the desired curls will not work. By the way, today perm is not the most expensive service of salons. It is cheaper than highlighting and coloring, but more expensive than a haircut. American "chemistry" and perms for veloformers are leading in terms of price. Much depends on the length of the hair and the drugs used. The price does not have to be high, but it serves as a guarantee that branded quality products are used. When choosing a salon and price, it should be borne in mind that hair treatment after poor-quality "chemistry" will still cost more.

For three days after curling, it is better not to wash your hair: all this time, the compositions that fix the curl continue to work. Hair after a perm requires permanent care and special care. Any "chemistry", even sparing, is stress for the hair. In order to help them survive it without serious damage, it is necessary to use special care preparations - this is at least an air conditioner and a healing composition. It is recommended to use the products of the same series and the same company, on the compositions of which the perm was carried out: then their components are combined the best way. In addition, you can buy drugs in the same salon where you did the perm, guided by the advice of your hairdresser. It is categorically impossible to use care and styling products intended for straight hair: they make the strands heavier, straightening the curls. Some experts recommend abandoning non-professional shampoos and masks sold in stores. They usually say: "For weakened hair, after dyeing or perm" - but these are completely different problems, and they also need to be solved in different ways. After curling, preparations are needed that smooth out microcracks on the hair shaft (the cause of brittleness and section after the procedure), for example, Wella offers silk proteins.

It is better to refrain from deep staining so as not to disturb the color. But you can use tinting agents: they will restore shine to the hair and restore the brightness of the color. You need to take care of chemically curled hair very carefully: use a large comb, excluding massage brushes(they break the structure of curls), metal combs and, if possible, hairpins. Comb the curls carefully, starting from the ends of the hair. Hair must dry naturally, they can not be wrapped in a towel: wet hair and so very fragile and elastic, and after the "chemistry" stretch more. As they dry, they should shrink, but the towel prevents them from returning to their original state. Curls lose their elasticity and can be torn from tension. Therefore, it is not recommended to go to bed with a wet head. After curling, it is better to exclude a strong thermal effect on the hair (electric tongs, thermal curlers and a powerful hair dryer - the air flow should be room temperature), using only mild gentle heat for styling.

Estel Niagara Perm Full instructions for home use

1. Preliminary Diagnosis

Preliminary diagnostics of the condition of the hair and scalp will allow you to choose the right composition,
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ATTENTION! Do not use eat there are any allergic reactions! Do not use on irritated scalp, cracks or wounds.
Find out the condition of the hair by touch and visually: how porous, dry, brittle the hair is, whether it has been previously dyed, bleached, or whether it has been previously chemically permed.
Pay special attention to the ends of the hair, as their condition is often worse than the condition of the hair along the length and in the root zone.

Skin Sensitivity Test:

Apply a small amount of Bio-Permanent to the skin behind the ear, wait 10-15 seconds, carefully remove wet wipe. Apply a small amount of a permanent fixer solution (1:1) to another area of ​​the skin, wait 1-2 minutes, and also carefully remove with a damp cloth. If within a day signs of an allergic reaction do not appear, you can use a permanent waving agent.

2. Choosing a Bio-Permanent Estel Niagara

Depending on the condition of the hair, choose one of the following formulations:
For hair that is difficult to curl (usually gray or coarse hair Asian type) use bio-permanent No. 1 "for difficult hair".
For natural hair, untreated with chemicals (oxidation dyes, brightening powder, perm compositions), use bio-permanent No. 2 "for normal hair».
For hair dyed with oxidation dyes, use Bio-Permanent No. 3 for Colored Hair.
For color-treated hair bad condition, for weak or very porous, for heavily highlighted (more than 70% bleached strands) and bleached hair, use bio-permanent No. 4 "for bleached and damaged hair».

Advice: We strongly recommend that before curling, always use protective compounds for porous, weakened or chemically treated hair: for normal and oily hair use a spray to smooth the structure of the hair, for dry -.
These products contain a balanced amount of provitamin B5, siloxanes, wheat proteins and collagen, as well as moisturizing and conditioning agents. All these components are selectively adsorbed on damaged areas and thus even out the hair structure and protect weakened areas from excessive exposure to the composition, ensuring a uniform curl. Practice shows that only in rare cases the condition of the hair is 100% perfect and then no leveling composition is required.

3. Preparing Your Hair for a Perm Estel Niagara

Wash your hair without massaging your scalp. Rinse the shampoo thoroughly and remove excess moisture with a towel. Do not dry your hair completely, but keep in mind that the more moisture remains on the hair, the more dilution of the bio-permanent on the hair with this residual moisture will occur.
Before winding, treat your hair, purposefully applying the product to damaged and porous areas. After applying the spray, do not rinse, balm - it is better to rinse.

4. Winding

ATTENTION! Use . If bio-permanent gets on the scalp, remove it with a damp cloth.
Twist the strands of hair around the curlers, trying to wind the hair evenly, with a little tension. Keep in mind that the thinner the strand, the better it will be saturated, and the more elastic and uniform the curl will be. After winding all the curlers, soak each strand 2-3 times with a sufficient amount of bio-permanent, starting from the bottom. occipital zone.
-TIP: If the hair is long (more than 20 cm), then it is recommended to first impregnate the strand with a bio-permanent, and only then wind it on curlers.
Otherwise, due to the large thickness of the twisted hair, it may turn out that the inner layers of the strand on the curlers are impregnated unevenly or remain unimpregnated at all.
-TIP: In order to better hold the strand on the bobbin and not slip, and the tip of the strand does not break out, it is recommended to use perm paper (for the tips). This will facilitate and speed up the winding process, allowing you to form an even curl. In this case, you will definitely need to pre-apply the bio-permanent to the ends of the hair before winding the strands, because then the paper will not allow them to be soaked properly, and they will remain uncurled.
-TIP: The schemes for wrapping strands on curlers can be different, but general sequence should be as follows: first, strands are wound on the occipital zone, then on the parietal zone, and only at the very end, strands of the temporal zone are wound. This is due to the speed at which the curl is formed: on the hair of the occipital zone, the curl is most difficult to form, and therefore requires a longer exposure time; and, accordingly, the fastest and easiest curl is formed on the hair from the temporal zones. The hair of the parietal zone takes an intermediate position.

5. Holding Time

When working with hair, additional heat can be used.
On average, the exposure time from the moment of impregnation of the last strand is:
for stubborn hair - 15 minutes (with heat), 25 minutes (without heat);
for normal hair - 15 minutes (with heat), 25 minutes (without heat);
for colored hair - 15 minutes (with heat), 25 minutes (without heat);
for bleached and damaged hair - 10 minutes (with heat), 20 minutes (without heat).

TIP: It should be noted that the above figures are indicative and the final holding time is determined by periodic testing of the curling results. Refresh if necessary. Do not be afraid to twist and twist the strands several times on different areas of the head, controlling the process of curl formation. If necessary, add the exposure time until the final formation of curls.
ATTENTION! Periodic monitoring of the curl formation process is extremely important and should not be neglected. Moreover, the very first control must be carried out within 1-2 minutes after the start of applying the bio-permanent. Unroll the first bobbin at the back of your head and look at the strand. If the curl has just begun to form, then you have chosen the right composition; if after only 2 minutes you see a sharply formed curl, this means that a too concentrated composition has been selected and the curling process is going too fast. It is necessary to quickly wash off the bio-permanent from the hair and use a weaker, more gentle composition.

6. Rinsing

Rinse your hair thoroughly after exposure time. hot water at least 5 minutes without removing the curlers. Remove excess moisture with a towel.

7. Fixation

To fix curls, restore the pH balance of the scalp and hair and neutralize the remnants of the bio-permanent, used with any type of bio-permanent.
The fixer contains provitamin B5, which helps to restore the hair structure and protects the scalp.

ATTENTION! Fixer-permanent NIAGARA is produced in a concentrated form. Before use, dilute it with water in a ratio of 1:1. Without dilution, you will get 1-2 tones lighter hair.
Do not remove curlers after rinsing. Fixing is done in the following order:
1. Pour the required amount of fixer into a non-metallic container, dilute it with water in a ratio of 1: 1 and lather with a sponge.
2. With a sponge, beat the solution until foam forms on the curlers, make sure that the hair is well saturated. The exposure time is 5-7 minutes.
3. Remove the curlers and apply the fixer solution to the hair again for 5 minutes.
4.Then rinse your hair with water and rinse with .
To give hair extra elasticity, silkiness and shine , treat your hair with a balm .

Do not be afraid that permanent waving will ruin your hair and cause it to fall out. Experts say that the chemical compositions used in hairdressing do not penetrate the hair follicle or scalp and do not destroy normal growth hair. Modern chemistry does not cause serious harm to the hair, only slightly discolors them.

Popular types of permanent waving

American "chemistry" - allows you to create curls of a large radius. Such a perm gives femininity, sexuality, it does not require painstaking styling. Especially suitable for those women who will wear "chemistry" as an independent hairstyle. The American perm is done on special Olivia Garden curlers, after which there are no creases on the hair, and the order of the curls corresponds to the location of the future hairstyle. It is performed on hair of any length.

Waving on veloformers is performed using special devices created by Wella. According to the technology, the hair is not wound on curlers, but curls itself from the inside. The strands are placed in special narrow latex bags, after stretching them. Then they are compressed, while the hair is curled into rings. As a result, soft waves with a "broken hair effect" are formed, which are easy to use as a base for styling. This perm lasts 1.5-2 months. Velloformers are designed for hair 20-45 cm long, the strands remain straight at the roots.

The TOP STAR perm, created by Wella, uses curlers of different diameters to create volume, soft wave or large curls. Suitable for short haircuts, as it allows you to achieve lush styling.

Spiral or vertical "chemistry" for long hair - performed on thin, vertically arranged curlers. The result is a tight, bouncy curl.

Root curling and curling the ends of the hair - this technique is not widely used, because due to hair growth, the curling effect is short-lived. Another drawback is the border separating the curled sections of hair, clear, well visible. However, "chemistry" at the ends of the hair is often performed to create pomp.

Today hairdressing offers many options for perms, the differences of which are based on the difference in compositions, methods of application, curlers used, etc. For example, there is French bubble chemistry, the "silk wave" technology. The latter uses a preparation with silk proteins, which gives the hair a silky look.

In order for permanent waving to look beautiful, many factors must be taken into account when performing it. These include, firstly, the quality of the chemical mixture, the method of its application. It depends on how much the hair will be injured. Secondly, visual effect directly depends on the type of haircut on which the perm will be performed. Thirdly, "chemistry" looks spectacular on thick and healthy hair. Fourth, perm is not an easy task for hairdressers. This procedure requires a lot of time, painstaking, professionalism, and a lot of experience. Take the choice of a master with all seriousness.

Contraindications

• It is not recommended to do “chemistry” if the hair structure is damaged by frequent dyeing, lightening or previous curls.
• Curling is contraindicated during menstruation, when the hair is less elastic.
• Hair dyed with henna or other natural dyes cannot be curled.
• Like many others cosmetic procedures, "chemistry" is contraindicated in pregnancy, taking antibiotics, morphine, chemotherapy.

Which makes the hair more voluminous long time. Today, this procedure still has its fans, although the classic "chemistry" has been replaced by its new forms. So, more about permanent hair waving, its features.

Permanent waving technology

The main advantage of a permanent is the duration of the effect. After all, the hairstyle lasts for a long time until the hair completely grows back. In the process of such a procedure, potent substances of chemical origin are used. For this reason, the perm is popularly referred to simply as “chemistry”. It consists of several steps.

First, the master checks the product that will be used for curling, for allergic reaction. To this end chemical drug applied behind the ear or on the wrist for 15-20 minutes. Lack of irritation is a signal that chemical styling it is possible to do.

To better soften the hair cuticles, they are washed before the procedure, but not dried. Then curlers or bobbins are wound onto the strands and this process begins from the back of the head. Curlers must be securely fixed, but the scalp should not stretch and feel discomfort. When all the strands are wound, they are treated with a curling compound. How long to keep chemical composition on the hair, depends on him and the type of future hairstyle.

After a certain time, the composition is washed off without removing the curlers. Then the strands are fixed with a special fixative.

The last stage is the neutralization of the remnants of the influencing substances. It is applied to untwisted hair. After that, the curls are treated with a moisturizer and allowed to dry naturally.

Permanent waving at home is difficult to do. If the technology is violated, it is possible to harm the hair, and the result will be far from expected.

Pros and cons of the procedure

permanent waving is the longest of all types of chemistry. Therefore, when deciding to do it, you need to take into account all the factors influencing the hair. The main argument "for" - stable and eternal curls. At proper care they look great. This also saves time on hair care: you do not need to style them every morning, wind them up, use means to fix them. Curls retain their shape even after rain and wet weather. Permanent waving is ideal for oily and thin hair. After chemistry, they are dried, become obedient and voluminous. Among the main disadvantages of such styling is the harmfulness of chemicals, their negative impact on the structure of the hair, their weakening. After using these substances, the hair must be restored. It often becomes dry after the permanent, if before that it was normal. Sometimes hairs can fall out if aggressive chemicals damage the hair follicles.

Hair care after permanent waving

Since the effect of chemicals on the hair during such a curl is stressful for the hair, they need to be restored. Three to four days after the procedure itself, you do not need to wash your hair to avoid changing the shape of the curls. They also need to be hidden from the sun, combed with a brush with soft bristles. You should purchase a special shampoo and conditioner enriched with restorative substances. Moisturizing and nourishing masks - required element care for such hair. It is not recommended to overload them with drying with a hair dryer, styling products, trying to change the shape of the hairstyle.

Contraindications to permanent

Permanent waving should not be done immediately after dyeing, highlighting and lightening. Then the structure of the hair will deteriorate. After colored henna and some natural dyes, the active ingredients of the composition used during the procedure may simply “not grab” the hair.

It is impossible to carry out a permanent during pregnancy and lactation, critical days and in postoperative period, infectious and other diseases, taking antibiotics and hormonal drugs. Chemotherapy is also a contraindication to perming hair. cardiovascular diseases, allergy or sensitivity to individual components of the composition.