Applying acrylic paint to a lacquered surface. What kind of varnish to cover acrylic paint - a glossy "defense" of brilliant beauty

I continue to furnish my room and in this post I wanted to talk about how I repainted furniture. If you remember, I started by deciding on the overall mood of the room, the color palette, and created the moodboard. I wrote about this stage in detail.

The second step was painting the furniture. The furniture in my room is very old. She's probably the same age as me (yes, she's also thirty-flirty-and-fabulous). Of course, there was an option to sell it for a penny on Avito, or even just take it to the trash. But I thought that I had a great chance to experiment with painting furniture. In the end, if nothing happens at all, then I will always have time to throw it out.

For painting lacquered furniture I used:

• the cheapest brushes (a set of three pieces);
• two liter cans of Dulux Aqua paint (white and coral, I chose the color in the palette store - about 1000 rubles per can);
• white spirit and countless newspapers.

I had a bedside table, a wardrobe and a cabinet with a trellis. I chose a rather complicated method of painting (for a start, of course, it would be better to choose something simpler - paint everything in one color). In my case, the main color was white, coral inserts on the facades and gold accents. So here's mine step-by-step instruction repainting old laminated furniture.

To find out what varnish to cover acrylic paint, consider the varieties of varnish compositions available for repair, select the optimal ones and describe the procedure for its application.

Different varnishes are needed, different varnishes are important

In the very general view varnish is a liquid solution of various resins, which is applied in a thin layer on various surfaces and after drying gives them shine and protection from external influence. With the help of varnishing, a significant aesthetic effect is achieved, the service life of many products and the durability of repairs are increased. According to the area of ​​\u200b\u200buse, varnish compositions are very diverse:

• Furniture - used indoors to cover any wooden products (and not just furniture), they often act as a finishing layer after. They can contain coloring pigments immediately or be supplemented with tinting before use, thereby immediately giving the wood desired shade already in the process of varnishing. Economical in terms of cost, but have low wear resistance;
• Parquet. They are used on floors made of natural wood, including those already processed in the factory. Parquet lacquers are compatible with parquet itself, solid boards and ordinary floorboards. Their cost is quite noticeable, as well as high abrasion resistance. The unifying property of furniture and parquet varnishes is low moisture resistance - that is why parquet, furniture and varnished floors are recommended to be wiped with mastic or special compounds, and not washed with buckets of water;
• Yachting. The antipodes of their predecessors in terms of moisture resistance, because they can resist prolonged exposure to sea spray, salty winds and ocean waves for a long time. They are used not only in shipbuilding, but also in land-based maintenance and repair, for example, when varnishing garden furniture, arbors, racks for canopies made of wood or carved platbands outside windows. The cost of yacht varnish is several times higher than the price of parquet, so it must be used wisely and carefully;
• Versatile or decorative. They occupy an intermediate position between the above compositions, allow application inside and outside the premises, have moderate durability and cost.

Lacquer for water-based paint, most often, is just universal. The area of ​​​​decorative application is very wide, they are perfect for both internal repairs and external decoration, therefore the protection of these paints should have universal properties.

The main types of varnishes by composition

By studying the label (or other accompanying inscription) on the packaging of the container with varnish, you can learn a lot useful information about its ingredients and paint compatibility. The formulas of varnishes and the technology for their manufacture are very diverse:

• Oil, based on organic (natural or synthetic) oils and resins. Best compatible with wood surfaces, this material absorbs oily substances well and has a high hardness after hardening. Unfortunately, the very hardening of oil varnishes can last several days;
• Alkyd - produced from alkyd resins and synthetic solvents. In terms of moisture resistance and wear resistance, they are better than oil ones, and they dry a little faster. They have universal qualities - they can varnish interior items and products located outside. Applied by everyone known ways– from miniature brushes to rollers and sprayers;
• Acrylic - environmentally friendly and absolutely safe in terms of fire (produced on water based). Fully transparent acrylic varnishes protect well any wooden surface and acrylic painting on plaster or plaster, but their durability depends on the stability of the microclimate in the room;
• Nitro-varnishes are beneficial due to their rapid solidification and rather “tenaciously” hold on the surface to be treated.. The disadvantage of nitro-varnishes is toxicity and the ability to corrode the painted base, so before varnishing, you need to stock up on a respirator and try out nitro-lacquer in an inconspicuous place, suddenly, instead of a glossy layer, tatters of new paint form?
• Polyurethane - versatile and convenient compositions with high resistance to mechanical, natural and chemical attack. Well compatible with various materials and paints. Of the "minuses" of polyurethane varnishing, one can note its technical complexity and high cost;
• Epoxy. In terms of aesthetic qualities, they are inferior to polyurethane, comparable in strength, and dry faster. Usually used for varnishing wooden products in rooms with high humidity (baths, saunas, baths, swimming pools).

Whether it is possible to varnish acrylic paint is determined by the identity of its composition with the painted surface, that is, acrylic varnish will obviously be compatible with acrylic paint, it is also acceptable to use polyurethane and some varieties of alkyd varnishes.

How to varnish acrylic paint - application instructions

Acrylic paints have one interesting feature: the longer they are left unvarnished, the stronger they “bond” to the wooden base. Before choosing a varnish, the paint must be allowed to dry thoroughly, from several days to several weeks. During drying, the painted product can be protected with a film or glass

How to varnish acrylic paint - step by step

Step 1: Choose a varnish

Be sure to check whether the varnish you like (acrylic, polyurethane or universal) is compatible with the type of base - wood, plaster or putty. It is highly desirable that the lacquer composition with acrylic components be fresh, that is, no more than 90 days have passed since its manufacture. Ceteris paribus, it is better to purchase a matte composition instead of a glossy one, because. acrylic paint rarely needs extra gloss.

Step 2: Preparing for varnishing

Protective film, cellophane, glass, etc. must be carefully removed without damaging the acrylic base. If dust is found on the surface, it is removed with a vacuum cleaner (without contact with the base!) last resort you can use a feather whisk. Moreover, the movements should be as accurate and measured as possible. Mechanical sweeping with rags is strictly prohibited - acrylic paints are quite gentle and can fly around with petals of multi-colored hopes even before varnishing.

The varnish itself should be heated to a temperature of 40-50 ˚C before being applied to a dust-free surface. It is best to perform this operation in a water bath. If there is no thermometer at hand, then you can follow the empirical ratio: a three-liter jar of varnish in a boiling liter of water is heated to a temperature of 40-50 ˚C in about five minutes. During heating, the varnish composition must be mixed several times with a smooth rail.

Step 3: Varnish!

It is important to set the lighting correctly, in the dark the best master paint and varnish work will not cope with the task. The light source is optimal at the top and right, even with sufficient room illumination. It is best to work with a wide flat brush - from 50 to 150 mm wide, depending on the amount of varnishing. A small amount of varnish is taken on the brush (so that it does not drip onto the floor and does not flow over the product) and is applied to the surface with wide, smooth strokes, moving from top to bottom. The trajectory of brush movements should be parallel to the upper border of the varnish. After processing 0.5-0.7 m 2 the varnish layer must be polished.

Polishing is done with a dry flat brush, moving from top to bottom. When the dry brush begins to stick to the surface being treated, you should move on to varnishing new areas. Ready product should be protected from dust settling until the varnish layer hardens. This is done by installing canopies, film frames, etc. It is better to try self-varnishing of acrylic paints on small products; with the acquisition of skills, you can proceed to decorative elements with a large surface area.

Lacquer is a very popular finishing material. And it is quite clear why. After all, it looks beautiful, lasts a long time, has good layer strength. However, other finishing materials appears on the market a lot.

And for this reason, there are a lot of questions about the compatibility of certain materials with varnish. For example, it is not clear whether acrylic paint can be varnished? If it is possible, then which one? Lacquers are also different ...

Lacquer application

In addition, there are many repair projects in which the surface is not made from the standard and familiar to everyone wood, but from completely different components. It can be metal, fabric or, for example. Will lacquer adhere to such planes?

Let's try to figure it all out. Let's consider relatively simple questions (approximately of this type - what kind of varnish to cover water-based paint, acrylic, etc.) and more complex ones.

Difficult ones are, for example, questions about metal surfaces. As a rule, they want to make them durable and shiny (lacquered), but this is not always possible.

Acrylic paints

Let's start the review of incomprehensible moments.

If we talk about whether it is possible to paint the wallpaper with varnish, then there will be a very simple answer - yes, you can, but you just need to understand that the wallpaper is different.

If these are ordinary paper wallpapers, then, most likely, after applying varnish (however, like paints), they simply simply get wet and deformed. Although if the paper is of high quality, then you can try.

And very often there are wallpapers for painting - here they can be painted. Moreover, if acrylic or water-based paint has already been applied to them, then you can still work with varnish. Only here you need to understand how to varnish acrylic paints - water-based material is best.

Tip: if you have the opportunity to get a sample of those that are on your wall, then try varnishing a small piece first and see what happens after drying. If the result suits you, then you can proceed to varnishing the main plane.

Well, the second version of the old wallpaper coating - is it possible to varnish water-based paint? Yes, you can. Here the situation is the same as with acrylic paints - it is desirable to work with water-based varnishes.

Photo of wallpaper painted with acrylic paint

Just consider these points:

• the lacquered wall will acquire a shine, due to which all the irregularities will be visible;
• it is difficult to cover the wallpaper with varnish, because it is necessary to achieve maximum uniformity of the layer application;
• if the varnish is colorless, then without a test piece of wallpaper, it is difficult to predict how the color, shade will change old paint.

There are clear advantages of the technology:

• the surface of the wallpaper will become very durable;
• walls will be easy to wash;
• wallpaper will no longer be afraid of moisture.

So, we figured out how to varnish acrylic paint and water-based paint on wallpaper. Now let's talk about the processing of floor coverings.

Laminate - can it be varnished

Varnishing laminate flooring

Despite the fact that the laminate is initially varnished in the factory, very often everything is required to paint the floor with varnish. As a rule, because over time the surface of the material loses its luster and, accordingly, beauty.

And, of course, a logical question arises - is it possible to paint a laminate with varnish?

This is permissible, but only, in no case should a standard parquet varnish be used for this task. It will simply corrode the surface of the laminate and, accordingly, you can forget about the beauty of the floor.

When varnishing an old laminate, it is imperative to take into account what its surface is made of, and select a varnish of approximately the same type.

The principle here is simple - for acrylic film you need acrylic varnish, for polyurethane, respectively, polyurethane.

Please note that there are special varnishes for laminate, but they are not intended to radically change the appearance of the floor and increase its strength characteristics. Rather, they are made to hide minor defects, scratches and in order to give the plane the effect of moisture, a slight gloss.

And let's take a quick look at how to varnish a laminate floor - short instruction and tips.

1. The surface must be as dry and clean as possible. Otherwise, the adhesion of the varnish to the plane will be fragile.
2. If some areas are completely worn out and there are cavities on them, due to which the woody base of the material is visible, then such places need to be putty, as it were, with PVA glue. Due to this approach, these areas will not so intensively absorb the varnish and, accordingly, it will be possible to apply it in a more or less uniform layer.
3. Remember that laminate cannot be processed sandpaper and cycle. It is better to cover up defects with a special paste for laminate - this is the maximum.

Puttying the floor

1. If all cracks, chips and large abrasions are processed, then varnish. The laminate is painted in several layers with a roller or brush. At the same time, remember that each new layer can be applied only when the previous one is 100% dry.

Well, of course, you need to understand that do-it-yourself varnishing of such material is very inferior in quality to factory painting. Even if the price of the varnish you have chosen is very high and it is of quite high quality, all the same, to maintain the external gloss, such floors will have to be painted once every 1.5 - 2 years.

Tip: if beautiful appearance laminate flooring is really important to you, it may make sense not to varnish it every one and a half seasons, but simply to replace it once. On a more wear-resistant laminate. Moreover, this is a maximum of a couple of days of work.

Now consider the combination of surfaces of a slightly different type and varnish.

Custom projects

Before we begin, let's give one important and at the same time simple advice.

Read the instructions in the supermarket that are on each container with one or another type of varnish. As a rule, there is always information about the compatibility of this material with different types planes. It will take a few minutes to read, but you definitely won’t buy something that doesn’t suit you in principle.

So, the most common non-standard surfaces.

Metal protection with varnish

Painting a metal wall

Usually, if it is necessary to treat metal with varnish, there are such tasks:

1. Give the material a shine. And in this case, piano lacquer painting is constantly mentioned. What it is? In fact, this is not even called a varnish, but rather a gloss effect. It is easily achieved - just choose a varnish with a glossy shade.
2. Apply the varnish as firmly as possible so that it lasts longer. Zinga electrically conductive paint is perfect for these purposes - this material combines best properties hot-dip galvanizing technologies and all the positive qualities of paint coatings. Simply put, metal coated with such paint will stay on the surface for a very long time and, in addition, gleam.

Can of Zinga paint

1. Protect metal surface from the effects of fire. And here fire-retardant paints for metal Polistil will come to the rescue. This is very good material, which will look beautiful, and increase the level of fire resistance of the structure.

Fabric surfaces

Here, of course, you need to look at what kind of fabric in question and what effect should be achieved.

Almost all dense and coarse fabrics are suitable for dyeing - such as burlap, for example. It is often used to create original interiors, therefore, we will consider burlap as a good example.

Can it be varnished? Perhaps the question can be slightly changed - does it make sense to varnish the fabric?

Lacquer, as a rule, is used to obtain the effect of shine, but fabrics are such a material that they will not shine much anyway. No matter what varnish will be used.

Therefore, it is much easier and cheaper to use not varnish, but ordinary alkyd or acrylic paint with gloss. The result will be approximately the same, with paint, with varnish. But you will overpay for the last option.

As for the application technology, it is very simple. The burlap is treated with drying oil, completely dried, and then paint is applied to its surface. Nothing complicated, as you can see.

Paint lettering on burlap

This review is over - let's summarize.

Conclusion

We have considered whether it is possible to coat acrylic paint with varnish, water-based paint, figured out whether the varnish can adhere to the laminate, and also raised several and more complex issues.

We hope that all the information provided was useful to you, and now you will better understand what can be varnished and what not. If you want to learn more about this material and working with it, we recommend that you also watch the video in this article.

A transparent coating is able to emphasize the beauty of the texture.

Coating selection

What paints and varnishes for wood does the modern market offer? Let's make a reservation right away: our list does not claim to be complete or true in the last resort. Only the personal impressions of the author from the use of certain materials will be described.

Paints

• The good old PF-266 enamel based on alkyd resins was used for painting plank floors (including hardboard floors) back in the days of our mothers and grandmothers. For the floor in a residential area, it still remains an excellent and time-tested solution. The service life of the coating reaches a decade.

However: the only problem with PF-266 is the limited choice of colors.
One gets the impression that the manufacturers of floor enamel have not changed the range of pigments since 1970: on the brown and green list colors ends.

• PF-115 is designed for exterior finishing work on walls, fences and other surfaces that are not subject to heavy wear. It’s really not worth painting the floors on the veranda with her: the coating wears out. The paint has excellent adhesion to any surface; however, fluctuations in the moisture content of wood and, accordingly, its linear dimensions will make it necessary to renew the coating every 2-3 years.

High-quality, durable and inexpensive coating.

• Acrylic facade water-dispersion paints have even less wear resistance. You can paint with them all wooden surfaces that do not experience mechanical stress; the coating is vapor-permeable and, alas, passes water, which affects the service life of boards and timber.
  Acrylic-based rubber water-dispersion paints stand apart: they are a waterproof coating that allows you to protect, for example, plywood walls in a shower room. The only drawback of rubber paint is a rather high price: a kilogram will cost from 300 rubles.

Rubber water-dispersion acrylic-based paint.

Lucky

• Lacquer PF-170 gives a durable and moderately weather-resistant coating. For covering wooden surfaces, closed from the rain, it is suitable without any reservations. On an open street… let's just say: the benches covered with it about a year and a half ago need re-painting.
• Parquet polyurethane lacquer is ideal for interior decoration: it is wear-resistant and elastic, which in practical terms means no cracks due to fluctuations in humidity.
• Yacht varnish on the same polyurethane basis can be safely used on outdoors. On the walls and supporting pillars, it will last at least 5-7 years, on the floor and steps - 3-4 years.
• NC varnishes are used where you need the most quick drying. The coating is only suitable for indoor use; the peculiarity of the varnish is that to obtain a dense glossy layer, it is necessary to apply at least seven to eight layers. However, the consumption per layer is small.

In the photo - quick-drying nitrocellulose varnish NTs-218.

Layer drying time

How long do paints and varnishes on wood dry?

• The entire line of PF - from one day to three per layer.

Clue: heat indoors or with a fan will speed up drying.

• Nitro-varnishes and nitro-paints dry from half an hour to 45 minutes per layer. The use of organic solvents leaves its mark on their use: the main instruction during operation is to ensure ventilation of the room.
• Complete drying layer of polyurethane varnish takes from six hours to a day.
• Acrylic paints (including rubber touted by the author) dry up to one and a half hours.

Application technology

How to paint or varnish wooden surfaces with your own hands?

Preparation

All coatings are applied only to dry wood. High humidity guarantees either cracking of the coating or its delamination.

For acrylic paints, there is some sense in pre-priming the surface. Not with the aim of strengthening it or increasing adhesion, no - solely to reduce the consumption of much more expensive paint.

A board or a bar is pre-sanded or stretched with a manual or electric planer. The criterion for readiness is a surface that is smooth to the touch.

Application

The technology is somewhat different for different paints and varnishes.

Acrylic paint is applied in three or four layers without intermediate sanding. A relatively thick coating will hide the inevitably raised pile; intermediate grinding, with a high probability, will remove not only the risen fibers, but also the paint itself, which has a very moderate wear resistance.

Alkyd and polyurethane varnishes and enamels require grinding after applying and drying the first layer; the total number of layers is 3-5. The purpose of intermediate sanding is to remove the notorious pile that will make the surface rough. The work is done manually or with a grinder using fine sandpaper.

Nitrolacs stand apart. At correct application they only give thin layer; grinding is desirable after applying and drying each layer, except for the last one.

Useful little things

• Coatings of all types are applied with a medium pile roller or a quality brush. High-quality - that is, not losing pile during the painting process.
• To strip the old paint, a building hair dryer and a steel spatula are used. The paint heated with a hair dryer peels off without much effort. The remains of the coating are washed off with an appropriate solvent - acetone for NC, white spirit for PF.

The paint warmed up by a building hair dryer is easily separated from the base.

• If an electric planer is used to pre-treat the surface of the tree, it must be driven along the fibers at a minimum speed. Otherwise, you can get a wavy surface; as a result, the board will have to be planed in one or two more passes with a corresponding decrease in thickness and strength.
• Paint on lacquered wood can only be applied without cleaning the surface if the coatings are identical in composition. Nitroenamels perfectly adhere to nitrolac, penolphthalein varnish - on enamels of the PF line. In other cases, the varnish is cleaned with a hairdryer or polished.
  
• Polishing the varnish after painting the wood can give the surface a glossy sheen and make it perfectly smooth to the touch. The work is done with a felt wheel or grinder with a fixed coarse cloth.

A drill with a felt wheel can greatly simplify polishing.

Conclusion

As already mentioned, the description of materials and work with them is limited. personal experience author. Additional materials the reader can learn by watching the video in this article. Good luck!

After repair work and updating the outer body of your car, it should be painted, and then the surface can be varnished. Of course, you can order car painting in the salon, but the cost of services will be high. Eat Alternative option- paint your car yourself.

Today, many manufacturers present different types of paints at various prices. The dye industry is developing so dynamically that new shades and paints are constantly being created with various properties. In general, any enamel performs not only an aesthetic function, but also protects the car body from corrosion. This is possible thanks to different options combinations of density, hardness and elasticity of the paint.

Any coloring matter consists of such basic components as a pigment, a binder, a solvent. Pigment is an element of inorganic origin that imparts color, weather resistance and opacity. The binder fixes the pigments on the painted surface. This forms a protective glossy film after the paint dries. The solvent connects all the elements of the paint composition, provides the desired consistency and fluidity.

Composition of acrylic paint

Types of car paints

To paint the outer surface of the machine, you can use Various types colors:

• Cellulosic. Such dyes can be applied in any room. They dry quickly, so particles of dust and other contaminants do not have time to settle on the painted surface;
• Acrylic. The most commonly used thermoplastic, which dry at normal temperature air. The advantages of this paint is that the treated area acquires a uniform color. It is also resistant to mechanical and chemical influences;
• Glyptal car enamels. Such paints create thick layers of a protective film. The painted surface does not require additional polishing, because after painting it becomes shiny. Drying at a temperature of 25 degrees Celsius can last up to a month. With indicators of 60-80 degrees, less time is required;
• Alkyd paints. Autoenamels with high rates of resistance to all sorts of influences, an acceptable cost of paint allows people of different incomes to purchase it. The only negative is the long drying of the painted surface;
• Powder paints. They are applied using special equipment for the car painting procedure. This type of paint is durable and economical to use, environmentally friendly and can be obtained various effects;
• Water based paints. Due to the environmentally friendly composition and high performance stamina is very popular. But the drying time of the coating is quite long.

After drying, some types of paints can be varnished on the surface of the car. To do this, you should understand what types of varnishes exist and for which coloring substances their use is relevant.

Varnishes for different types of paints

Varnish should be selected according to compatibility with paint. You also need to pay attention to the degree of its rigidity. According to these parameters, there are only two types:

For painting a car, the technology of two-phase coating of the outer body of the car is used. For this, it is used basic foundation and then varnish is applied. It can be corresponding to the coloring element in terms of properties or acrylic.

Now glyptal varnishes based on synthetic resins have become widespread. Such enamel does not require the use of protective substances after coating the surface. This is an advanced painting product. It simultaneously gives the necessary shade and gloss to the painted surface. The composition contains such drying activators that react with paint elements only at certain temperatures. IN this case final drying will be faster, and protective layer will become more durable. When you cover the surface of a car with glyptal varnish, you should study the instructions, since this substance is sensitive to temperature conditions and manufacturers recommend different proportions of enamel dilution.

Cellulose varnishes are now practically not used, because they have low rates compared to other varnishes and enamels. The color of cellulose paint fades very quickly, and the gloss of the car will be quite weak. If we talk about alkyd paints, then they use the appropriate alkyd varnish, which has the highest degree of compatibility.

Nitro enamels are little used because they have low weather resistance. Used for repair separate parts and car parts. And after drying the paint, it is necessary to apply a layer of varnish to fix and shine.

How to varnish acrylic paint

Manufacturers of paints after applying acrylic enamel do not recommend varnishing the surface of the car. Initially given substance based on various components, including resins. There are thermosetting and thermoplastic acrylic varnishes. The first option is used only for factory painting a car, and the second can be used if you are going to cover the car body with acrylic yourself.

Acrylic car enamel dries quickly enough. It has high durability and reflective properties. To make the surface more even, it is necessary to apply acrylic varnishes in two layers. It will also make the shade more saturated and deep.

What paints are acrylic lacquers used for?

• Alkyd paints. For this type, not only a suitable alkyd varnish can be used, but in certain situations it is permissible to use acrylic varnish;
• Cellulose paints. To keep the color longer, acquire depth, and the surface shine, you can use acrylic varnish;
• "Metallic" is a two-component substance. At the first stage, a base layer is applied, which sets the color and shade. In the second step, the surface is covered acrylic varnish to create a glossy painted surface. In such paint there are small particles of metal, which give the metallic effect to the surface;
• "Mother of Pearl" is another option for a two-component paint. It is similar to metallic, but has more a high degree richness and depth. Such a coloring matter creates various effects. For example, the hue of a car changes depending on the lighting and how far the person is from the car.

So, when repairing cars, painting and varnishing the body of a car, various substances. Now you can decide on the choice of paint and varnish for your car. It should be remembered that there are paints, after which it is necessary to varnish the surface of the car. First, the base is applied, and then a layer of varnish. These are metallic and mother-of-pearl paints, cellulose and alkyd paints, as well as nitro enamel. For them, a compatible varnish or acrylic is used. The second option is universal remedy, so it is most common in car repair. For all other types of paints varnishing is not applied.