Reliable fence made of stone with your own hands. Magnificent eternal fences made of natural stone

The stone fence has many distinctive features and benefits. Such fences are characterized by incredible reliability, texture and durability. For construction, you can use the most diverse stone material, which allows you to translate into reality an infinite number of design ideas - the finished design can harmoniously fit into any landscape.

The service life of a stone fence as such has no limits. It all depends on the quality of the masonry mortar and the correctness of the work. The arrangement of the fence must be approached with the utmost responsibility. Of course, for this you can invite a team of professional builders, but in such a situation you will have to spend a lot of money. And why do this if you can handle all the necessary measures on your own?

First of all, we choose the material for the construction of our fence. We can lay out rubble or hewn stone. Hewn stones are called stones with specific sizes and a certain shape. They are best used for masonry. In the absence of experience in laying stone, pillars are definitely recommended to be built from hewn elements.

The rubble stone has an irregular shape and allows you to build structures with unique design. It is from this material that it is recommended to lay out spans - it will turn out very beautiful and original.

Among the most popular materials for laying stone fences are limestone and dolomite, as well as granite and sandstone.

We buy or produce on our own right amount selected stone, and then prepare the following working tools:

• a concrete mixer or a container for preparing a mortar manually;
• roulette;
• shovel;
• Master OK;
• level;
• rods and cord for marking.

A few words about preparation for work

After preparing all the necessary tools, we proceed to planning. We need to draw a sketch of the future fence, taking into account the features of its spatial placement and size. In terms of dimensions, focus entirely on your preferences and financial opportunities. The average height of such fences is 2-2.5 m.

We clear the site from plants and debris, level the ground and transfer the drawing to the area. For marking, we use any stable rods and a strong rope. We drive the marking posts into the ground along the perimeter of the future structure, pull the cord between them and proceed to the next step.

We make the foundation

The stone structure will have a solid weight, so before starting its construction, we must pay due attention to the arrangement of the foundation. We will build a fence on a solid tape reinforced base - the best option for a heavy fence.

We make the width of the foundation approximately 15 cm more than that of the finished fence. The height of the base (part of the base protruding above the ground) is chosen at our discretion. Builders recommend that it be at least 10-15 cm. We will focus on this value during the further construction of the formwork.

First step. We dig a trench about 70 cm deep.

Second step. We fill the bottom of the pit with a 5-centimeter layer of sand. The pillow is carefully tamped.

Third step. We install formwork. It can be assembled from boards, plywood and other suitable materials.

Fourth step. We lay a reinforcing frame on a sand cushion. To strengthen the fence, 8 mm bars will be enough. Reinforcing in 2 layers. First, we lay a mesh of reinforcement at a height of 50 mm from the sand cushion.

We fix the second grid 50 cm below the ground level. To fasten both reinforcing layers and additionally strengthen the foundation, we first drive reinforcement or pipes with a diameter of about 10 mm into the ground.

Fifth step. We pour concrete. We remove the formwork after at least 2 weeks. The concrete itself will gain strength in about 1 month.

We build pillars

We will build the pillars using the sliding formwork method. The recommended dimensions of the pillars are 300x300 or 400x400 mm at your discretion. We will assemble the formwork itself from boards, fastening them with self-tapping screws.

First step. We expose the formwork for the first row of stones. We maintain the selected dimensions of the pillars.

Second step. Temporarily lay out the first layer of the column without mortar. Stones should fit to the walls of the formwork as tightly as possible. We exclude gaps between masonry elements.

Third step. Having carefully calibrated the stones for laying the first row, we lay them already using the mortar. We use a thick cement mixture. If the stones have even edges, simply lay them on the mortar like a brick. If the edges of the elements are uneven, you will have to tinker a little longer. In such a situation, we additionally pour the solution into the gaps between the stones. Similarly, we will lay out all subsequent rows.

Fourth step. Having filled one row of formwork, we put another on top of it and continue laying the pillar. We will follow a similar sequence further on.

Fifth step. After waiting a day after laying out the first tier, we dismantle the lower part of the formwork. At the same time, we leave the overlying fragment in order to be able to fasten the next tier of the wooden structure.

Having removed part of the formwork, we carefully seal the gaps between the stones with a thick cement mortar, providing a neat appearance of the pillar and making it more durable. In the future, we will perform stitching. Guidance for this work will be given below.

Helpful advice! To ensure that the masonry does not collapse, we give each of its tiers the opportunity to gain strength within a day, and only after that we continue to work.

Laying out spans

The foundation and pillars are ready. We can start laying out spans. The optimal size of stones for laying sections is up to 20-25 cm. Such elements have relatively little big weight which makes working with them easier and more convenient. If necessary, we break large stones into smaller fragments with a hammer or crush them with a perforator.

We will fasten the stones with a thick mortar from a portion of cement and three portions of sand. If we want to get seams of a color different from the solution, we add dry dye to the mixture.

As a rule, the width of the stone pillar exceeds that of the span section. In view of this, the wall must be evenly displaced in relation to the outer and inner sides of the pillars.

We perform the work in the following sequence.

First step. We apply the cement mixture to the base.

Second step. Symmetrically lay out the stones on both sides of the span. We connect the edges of the section with a thread. We will be guided by it during further laying.

Third step. Completely lay out the first row of the span, filling the space between the faces laid out in the previous step. Stones are best placed flat side up. Cracks and voids are filled with a thick cement mixture.

We give the masonry to gain strength during the day and similarly lay the next row. So we work until the planned height is reached. Rows are strongly recommended to lay out with dressing.

Helpful advice! To get an even top line fencing, the last row we lay out each span from stones of the same height.

In the process of laying, we work with the utmost care. We try to prevent the cement mixture from getting on front side masonry elements. If the solution does get on the stones, we immediately clean it off.

Fence Finish

To make the fence look more attractive, we perform stitching. They can be convex, shallow and deep. The third option allows you to visually expand the volume of masonry. Otherwise, be guided by your preferences and features of the design idea.

For stitching, we prepare the following:

• wire brush;
• scraper;
• foam rubber.

Seams are most easily embroidered 3-4 hours after laying. Further, the cement mixture becomes too tight and difficult to joint.

We work in that order.

First step. We clean the stones and seams with a wire brush.

Second step. Using a scraper, we create neat grooves in the seams up to 10-20 mm deep (at our discretion).

Third step. My fence. To do this, we use foam rubber, a brush and a solution of 30% hydrochloric acid. We observe precautionary measures: we work with acid in protective gloves.

The fence is ready.

Additionally, to decorate the fence and ensure quick removal of atmospheric moisture, we install special caps on the poles. If desired, the design of the fence can be supplemented with all kinds of forged elements - this remains at the discretion of the owner.

How to make a gabion fence

The process of making a gabion fence. Installation of gabions does not require special preparatory work. The walls of the boxes and the covers are interconnected by special spirals or strapping wire. Then the boxes are filled with natural material. In the central part it is allowed to lay stones of a smaller size, and at the edges necessarily large ones. When laying stones, it is necessary to reduce the formation of voids. The gabion is filled gradually, first by one third, after which the box is fixed from the inside, then the procedure is repeated

Successful work!

Video - Installation of a gabion fence

Video - Construction of a gabion fence

Video - Do-it-yourself natural stone fence

Speaking about various types of fences for summer cottages and private land, many consumers stop at choosing a stone fence. This variety is very popular due to its main advantages - strength and durability, and perhaps the only drawback is its high cost. Many owners are engaged in the construction of a stone fence with their own hands. What is the best way to organize this process? What recommendations to consider in the work? We will answer these and other questions in this article.

Calculations and preparatory work before erecting a stone fence with your own hands

The preparatory stage of work before erecting a stone fence requires:

• determination of the exact dimensions of the fence;
• drawing up a drawing of a future design;
• calculation of the material necessary for work;
• preparation of a working tool;
• get advice and recommendations from experts.

To fulfill the above points, the repulsive moment is information on the exact dimensions of the fence. In order to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future fence and, in fact, the dimensions of the fence itself, reinforcing bars and any type of vervec will be needed. Previously, the construction site must be cleared of debris and the territory should be marked, the boundaries of the planned fence should be marked with pegs and a rope.

After the estimated dimensions of the structure are known, you can proceed to the calculation and preparation required material and tools. We will consider this point in more detail below.

Experienced craftsmen and builders give a lot of advice on how best to work with stone, what moments should not be missed. Some of the recommendations are given below.

• On initial stage You have to take care of the security measures. All construction processes are best done in work gloves and uniform.
• For the construction of a stone fence, it is better to use rocks of the material.
• Formwork is better not to do large sizes, since the huge dimensions will lead to poor quality of the entire fence.
• In the production of a stone fence with your own hands, it is better to use the method of deep seams.

Disadvantages and advantages of a stone fence with your own hands

We have already mentioned that the disadvantages of a stone fence are reduced to almost zero. The disadvantages of such a fence, in addition to the high price, can only be attributed to lengthy construction work. And we can talk about the advantages of such a fence for a long time. The advantages of a stone fence include:

• anti-flammability;
• beautiful and elite appearance;
• environmental cleanliness;
• resistance to any weather conditions;
• retains its natural properties many, many years.

This list can be supplemented by the fact that each user can optionally choose the type of stone that suits him both in color and price. Most importantly, the stone is not subject to the spread of corrosion and other decay processes, etc.

What you need to build a fence with your own hands

The main material is, of course, stone. Most often, cobblestone (rubble stone), granite, limestone, sandstone, dolomite, etc. are used for this purpose.

Cement is required to create the foundation. For the production of formwork, a semi-edged board is needed.

A number of working tools are:

• concrete mixer;
• welding machine;
• roulette;
• shovel and construction trowel;
• level;
• hammer;
• reinforcing bars;
• rope;
• container for solution, etc.

Individually selected materials depend on the type of stone fence planned:

• gabion;
• brick;
• wood and stone, etc.

Type and variety of stone

A frequently asked question on this topic is the following: What kind of stone is better to choose for building a fence. Before finding the answer, it is worth considering in more detail existing species, the main ones are presented in the table.

How to make a foundation for a stone fence with your own hands

Regardless of the chosen masonry method (backfilling, facing, vertical, horizontal, plank), the construction of a stone fence, in principle, like any other, begins with pouring the foundation. This element of the fence must be made with high quality and reliability, so stone fence has a huge weight.

In this article, we will consider the creation of a strip foundation. This process takes place in several steps.

Step 1. At the beginning, a trench is dug, the width of which should be at least 15 centimeters more than the width of the fence itself. The depth calculation looks something like this: for a 2-meter fence, about 80 centimeters are recommended.

Step 2. This moment includes the calculation and designation of a place for support pillars, it is ideal to place them every 2.5 meters.

Step.3. The bottom of the dug pit is covered with rubble and carefully rammed. The thickness of this layer must be at least 4 centimeters.

Step 4. At this stage, reinforcing bars are used, which are laid on top of the crushed stone layer.

Step 5 Formwork is assembled using a semi-edged board. This is done so that the flooded foundation is 10-12 centimeters above the ground cover.

Step 6. Using a concrete mixer, we hammer in the mortar and fill the pit with it.

Step 7 To ensure reliable waterproofing of the fence, the concrete layer should be covered with roofing material.

How to build stone fence posts with your own hands

The process of installing stone fence posts with your own hands usually consists of the following steps:

• formwork installation;
• reinforcement;
• pouring concrete.

As a result, we get the so-called "glasses" every 2.5 meters. The work on the construction of pillars requires time, so this business must be done in stages.

1. At the initial stage, according to the planned dimensions of the pillars, the first row of stones is laid out.

2. Having prepared a thick consistency solution, fill in the first row of stones, excluding all gaps between the masonry. For beginners in this business, it is recommended to use a material similar in shape to a brick. As it hardens, the formwork is rearranged and the remaining layers of the pillars are laid out in the same way.

3. After hardening, each tier is treated with cement mortar, thus neutralizing minor flaws. Each of the tiers should dry well. Between laying rows should pass at least a day.

Stages of building a stone fence with your own hands

Speaking very briefly, the process of building a stone fence can be divided into the following stages, three of which we have described above.

1. Preparation of the territory.

2. Foundation pouring.

3. Preparation of pillars.

4. Laying out spans.

5. Finishing and decorating the fence.

So, let's consider one of the methods for laying out spans of a stone fence with our own hands. Some craftsmen prepare stones of large sizes, some use ready-made sections, the acceptable size of which is about 25 centimeters. Overall stones at this stage need to be broken to the desired size.

To prepare a thick mortar, you need to adhere to the proportion: 1: 3 (cement:sand). To obtain a color effect in a hardware store, it is better to purchase special dyes in advance, which are added directly to the cement mixture. For orientation in height, a thread is pulled along the perimeter of the construction site. The stones are laid out with fastened concrete mortar, all the gaps between the building elements are carefully laid. It is important to lay the masonry in rows and let them dry, so the structure will become more durable. For laying the top layer, it is better to use stones of approximately the same height.

Features of finishing a stone fence with your own hands

To finish a stone structure with your own hands, the method of jointing is most often used. There are several types of suture elements: deep, convex, shallow. At this stage, you will need:

• foam rubber;
• wire brush;
• scraper.

Using a brush, you need to clean the stones and the seams of the main masonry. Next, we use a scraper, which will allow us to create peculiar grooves in the seams. Next, we use foam rubber and a solution of hydrochloric acid. This process is also called seam washing. Security measures are very important at this stage.

All other decorated elements are at the discretion of the owners. Below are some options for design ideas for a do-it-yourself stone fence.

Basic rules for the design of a stone fence with your own hands

The design of a stone fence directly depends on the chosen type of material. For example, an uneven brick fence will perfectly complement chipped granite. I lay it out on top of the facade primer and fix it with special glue or a solution with the addition of a plasticizer. This solution will help decorate not only the newly built fence, but also update the old, boring decor of the long-built fence.

Recently, the combination of stone and structural plaster is gaining popularity.

Usually, all the nuances of decorating a stone fence are thought out at the beginning of the construction. The main points in this case are the texture and color of the fence. But it often happens that the final look seems not improved. In such cases, they resort to the use of devices with peaks and caps, climbing plants, elements with openwork, original forging.

In some cases, even paving slabs are used to imitate natural stone. Carrying out the process of decorating and embodying non-standard ideas at the same time, it is important to remember the main rule: additional material should organically fit into the main one, and also not damage it.

For more information

Making a stone with your own hands is not so difficult if you familiarize yourself with the technology, get everything you need and show a little imagination. With the help of foam, concrete and coloring pigments, you can create boulders that will decorate a corner of the garden, imitate rock or masonry, and also make tiles for wall decoration.

Manufacturing decorative stones can be made using foam, concrete and coloring pigments.

How to make stones for the garden?

You will need:

• Rabitz;
• pieces of foam;
• plastic bags;
• thin wire or wide tape;
• metal scissors (nippers);
• sand;
• Portland cement;
• putty knife;
• pigments.

To make the shape of the future stone, you need to take a piece of foam and a chain-link mesh.

The first step is to decide on the shape of the future stone and its texture, make a sketch on paper or take a real copy as a sample. Going to the store, you should clearly understand what pigments you may need. If it is difficult for you to determine by eye color scheme stone, then ask the seller to help you choose pigments, for example, for granite or marble.

After all the materials are purchased, you can get to work. Make the shape of the future stone from the chain-link mesh. For this purpose, the best fine mesh with cells of 1-2 cm. Fill the resulting form with pieces of foam, fill the voids with thin plastic bags. In order to reduce the number empty seats to a minimum, it is necessary to break the foam into small pieces of 2-3 cm. Tighten the bottom of the stone with a thin wire or glue it with a wide stationery tape(construction is not suitable for this purpose).

Mix Portland cement with sand - it is best to use fine river cement, since it contains fewer pebbles than other types - in a ratio of 1 to 3. Dilute the dry mixture with water, mix well, leave for 5-10 minutes, then mix again. Many craftsmen recommend mixing the concrete mix by cutting: cut off a piece of concrete, move it to the side, mix (the operation is repeated several times). You should get a solution that resembles a not very thick dough in consistency (the mass should not pour, but slowly fall off the tool).

Using a spatula, apply the solution to the surface of the stone (layer thickness approximately 1.5-2 cm). Moisten the product from the spray bottle, cover with plastic wrap, leave for a day. Then take 10 g (tablespoon without top) of the pigment of the main color of the stone, add 250 g of Portland cement (1 faceted glass), dilute the mass with water to the consistency of thick sour cream. Put on rubber gloves, lubricate the product with the resulting solution. It is important to catch the moment when the mass begins to set, but has not yet completely solidified. Take a spatula, give the product a natural shape: make notches, scratches, chips.

Then, using a stiff-bristled brush, make pinpoint punctures in several places. Moisten the stone again with a spray bottle, cover it with a film, leave it to dry completely. Then turn the product over and cover the bottom with cement mortar. After everything dries, you can start painting the stone. Dilute the pigments according to the attached instructions, you already have the main color of the stone, so you do not need to repaint it. the main task- tint the product and give it the maximum natural look. The paint is applied with a toothbrush by spraying, crumpled paint is used to give stains. plastic bag or a foam sponge. Instead of pigments, you can take spray paints if you apply each color thinnest layer, then you get an interesting grainy texture. If the result of painting does not suit you, then it's okay, wash off the paint with water and try again. The result is best fixed with automotive aerosol or yacht varnish.

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Styrofoam masonry

You will need:

• Styrofoam;
• tile adhesive (sand-cement mortar 3 to 1);
• putty knife;
• large palette knife;
• acrylic paints;
• deep penetration primer.

The prepared cement mortar must be applied to the wire mesh with a spatula.

From foam plastic, you can make an excellent imitation of masonry on a fence, trim the sides of a pool, the facade of a house or cellar. First of all, prepare the surface: clean it from dust and dirt, make notches for better adhesion of materials. Then a deep penetration primer must be applied. Next, tile adhesive is diluted or cement mortar is made. Glue is much easier to work with as it is more malleable and concrete is much cheaper. What exactly to choose is up to you.

Using a spatula, apply the solution to small plot walls, apply a foam brick, press it a little with your hands. IN this case the shape of the foam does not really matter, since the texture of the stone is achieved by applying the solution. Therefore, the foam is broken into rectangles various lengths. After you have applied the foam, start applying tile adhesive to it, try to make the edges of the stone natural. In some places, smooth the surface with a palette knife, in others - add mortar, create bulges. Then glue another piece of styrofoam next to it.

Do not repeat the location and shape of the previous stone. Distribute the elements so that they resemble real masonry.

To make the artificial stone look like a natural one, then with the help of a foam sponge you need to give a texture in the form of water ripples.

If you only have thin strips of Styrofoam available, then it doesn't matter, you can create a large stone from them. To do this, glue 3-4 pieces side by side, cover them with a solution, give the desired shape.

You can make an interesting texture using the notch method: take a spatula, cut the solution on the stone with the side part, smooth it slightly with a palette knife. Thus, the entire masonry is performed.

After the solution hardens, you can start painting. Dilute the dark brown acrylic paint water to a liquid state, cover the surface with a translucent layer, let dry.

Then dilute the ocher in the same way, tint the stones with a thin glazing layer.

Apply the same way white paint. Masonry Styrofoam ready!

Currently, for the construction of fences, there is a huge variety of materials and technologies. Stone is considered the most durable of all. From it are obtained reliable, textured and durable fences. For the construction of such a fence, you can hire craftsmen, but why overpay if it is quite possible to build it on your own? Let's understand the intricacies of the process.

Pros and cons of stone fences (table)

Varieties of stones

Fences made of stone began to build a long time ago. Since ancient times, such fences have protected people's homes. Modern builders and landscape designers often take natural materials as their main raw material.

There are many types of natural and artificial stones from which you can get lost. Right choice stone - very important point. With it, you can emphasize the style of your site.

1. Cobblestone. In another way, it is called a boulder stone. It is the most common and affordable option due to different factions. Despite the fact that it is simple, its strength is higher than that of other species. The disadvantages include grey colour which is not to everyone's taste. Red-brown color cobblestone is less common.
2. Gravel. It is also considered a popular option. Fences from it can take any form. The combination of coarse and fine gravel allows you to create original fences. Small gravel can fill the iron frame. To create a durable fence, gravel is combined with brick.
3. Dolomite stone. Is different flat shape, different sizes and thickness. The place of its production is mountain quarries. This is a natural stone High Quality. The constructed fence from it will be durable and attractive.
4. Limestone. There are shell rock, marble-like limestone and bryozoan. It is soft and therefore easy to handle. For beginners this perfect option. Its disadvantages include the fact that it absorbs moisture. So that it does not destroy the stone, it is necessary to pre-treat it with a water repellent.
5. Sandstone. The use of this stone for the construction of fences has been going on for a considerable number of years. It is a durable, frost and moisture resistant stone.
6. Booth. Mined from sandstone, limestone and dolomite. Stone irregular shape. Its edge can be from 15 to 50 centimeters. From it not only build fences, but also trim them.
7. Fake diamond. IN Lately its popularity is growing due to the fact that it is much cheaper than natural. Most often it is made of concrete with the addition of pigments. Finished copies practically do not differ from their originals.

Combining stones with other materials

The original combination is a combination of wood and stone.

Thanks to these natural materials, the fence fits harmoniously into environment. True, to make such a fence is quite difficult. Special skills and preliminary developments are required.

Gabions have been very popular lately.

Translated from French, it means "stones in a grid." The basis for such a fence is a mesh of thick metal wire. Fine and medium gravel is poured into it. In addition, fragments of bricks, rubble and other stones are often poured into it. The fence can be of any shape. The end result is an attractive and durable fence.

The combination of stone and brick is the most popular fencing option.

The fence turns out to be presentable, durable, resistant to temperature extremes and weather conditions.

Preparatory work

TO preparatory work include the design and acquisition of all necessary tools and materials. The fence project and all the necessary calculations can be done using special online programs from open sources. The choice of material depends on your financial and taste preferences. Description of the most popular above. And from the tools you will need a concrete mixer, a tape measure, a shovel, a trowel, a building level, pegs and a rope.

The preparatory work also includes clearing the territory, leveling the ground and marking. The latter is carried out by driving in pegs and pulling a rope between them along the perimeter of the future fence.

Foundation

As mentioned earlier, the stone fence has an impressive mass, so the arrangement of the base must be approached with all responsibility. A solid tape reinforced base is ideal.

The width of the foundation should be 150 millimeters greater than the width of the future fence. The height of the plinth is up to you. The main thing is that it should not be lower than 100-150 millimeters.

support poles

For the construction of pillars, the "sliding formwork" method is used. The optimal dimensions for supports are considered to be 30x30 or 40x40 centimeters. The formwork is assembled from boards and fastened with self-tapping screws.

Ideally, give each tier a day to dry before laying the next one. Thus, the pillars will be more durable.

Laying out spans

After the base and pillars are built, you can begin to build spans. The optimal size of stones for them is considered to be 200-250 millimeters. Due to their not too large mass, they are easier and more convenient to work with. big stones can be broken with a hammer or crushed with a perforator. The stones are held together with a thick mortar made from sand and cement in a ratio of 3:1, respectively. Adding dry dye to the mixture will allow you to get seams of a different color than the solution has.

First you need to apply a cement mortar to the foundation. Then symmetrically lay out stone elements along both edges of the span. To make it easier to navigate in the masonry, the section is marked with a stretched thread.

Lay out the entire bottom row of the section. Fill in all the gaps between the edges. The flat side of the stone should be facing up. Before you start laying out each subsequent row, as in the case of the construction of pillars, leave the masonry for a day so that it dries. Use the dressing when laying out the rows.

Finishing work

To give more attractive appearance fence, it is necessary to perform jointing.

The seams are convex, shallow and deep. The latter option visually makes the masonry more voluminous.

To work on the seam, you will need a scraper, a wire brush and a piece of foam rubber.

It is easiest to open the seams about 3-4 hours after the masonry is completed. Later, the cement mortar becomes stiff and difficult to joint.

1. First you need to clean the stones and seams with a wire brush.
2. With a scraper, create neat ditches in the seams, the depth of which should not exceed 1-2 centimeters.
3. Then the fence must be washed. This is done with the help of foam rubber, brushes and 30% hydrochloric acid. At the same time, do not forget about safety measures - use protective gloves.

As additional decorative elements you can use forging or let it grow along the fence climbing plants and so on. It all depends on your imagination.

How to make a gabion fence

Fences from gabions (stones in a grid) are rapidly gaining popularity among others. This is facilitated by a number of advantages:

• Such a fence reliably protects from wind and street noise.
• Hides your personal life from prying eyes.
• The fence is visually attractive.
• Withstands heavy loads.
• Easy and simple to install.
• Economical and durable.
• Perfectly tolerates temperature changes and any weather phenomena.
• Such a fence can be erected on any terrain.
• You can fill it with different materials.

How to choose a grid?

In order for such a fence to be as durable as possible, it is necessary Special attention focus on material selection. There is a wide variety of nets for the construction of the fence, which have different shape and cell size. Most often, a chain-link mesh is used, which can be tension and sectional. The cells in it come with a round, square and other section.

When choosing a grid, do not go wrong with the size of the cells. Stones should not fall out through them.

Do-it-yourself construction stages

The foundation for a gabion fence is made according to the same principle as described above. Make the posts in the same way as for the previous fence. The distance between them should be no more than 5 meters. As soon as the base and supports are completely solidified, proceed with the installation of gabions.

First you need to form a frame from the grid. Lay the rolls on the ground, unroll them and level them. Carefully fix the grid to the supports and foundation.

The last step is to fill the grids with stones.

Video: building a gabion fence

Video: highlights of laying buta

A stone fence will become a reliable protector of your dacha. It will serve you very well. for a long time. Its construction is a simple process. By following the recommendations and tips described above, you will not have to spend money on workers. You can do this job on your own. Good luck!

You have bought or acquired land. The first thing any owner does, even before building a house, is building at least a symbolic, and more often a capital and high fence to mark the territory and hide from prying eyes. It’s good if your site or house is in a village where good neighborly relations are still preserved. And if you settled in a new holiday village, where no one knows anyone yet and there are a lot of work crews of unknown origin around, then a high fence is the only guarantee of your safety. But in this case, its cost can be compared with the cost of the house itself.

There is a theory that the fence is an expression of the character of its owner. An open wattle fence is as different from a three-meter brick bastion as a gullible extrovert from a pragmatic unsociable person.

There is a third point: the attitude towards the owner that has developed over the centuries according to the height of his fence. If the fence is high and impenetrable, then either you are a good zealous owner, or you have something to hide.

The stone fence is traditional. It is better than any other fence to block the path of an intruder, it is beautiful and looks dignified. It's easy to make, the rules are simple. The main thing is to choose the right stone, place, height, style of the fence. If stone fencing is chosen, then the decision is clear.

Advantages and disadvantages of using stone for fence construction

pros

This is a natural environmentally friendly material, it looks expensive and beautiful. It organically fits into almost any landscape, combined with any design of the house and adjoining buildings. It is practically eternal and absolutely fireproof. A fence of any reasonable (and unreasonable) height can be built from stone - the foundation would be strong and the thickness would be sufficient. The selected stone can be combined with forging, wood, other stone.

Minuses

Such a fence is very expensive, it requires the help of professionals or your solid training. Any stone fence, regardless of the type of stone chosen, requires a serious foundation. The stone may need additional processing (cutting, grinding) on ​​site, and hydrophobization.

A few simple design rules

• A fence is part of the landscape or landscape that surrounds your home. It should be in harmony with the house, flowers, trees, garden furniture, design of reservoirs. If you have a designer house, then the main fence and small adjoining fences should have the same design solution.
• It is advisable to choose the type of stone that is typical for the area where your house is located. First, the logistics will be easier and cheaper. Secondly, there are probably a lot of buildings made of the same stone in the area, and your fence will look organic.
• It is believed that in color solution both the house and the fence should not have more than three colors.
• High opaque fences are good if the house is in a crowded place or near the road. The height should be such that only the first floor of your house is not visible.
• Should be one style decision at the roof of your house - and at the visor of the gate and the roof (drip) of the fence.
• Gate and gate - very important emphasis in the fence. They should also fit into a single style decision of the estate.
• Greenery planted inside and outside the fence will decorate it, visually facilitate the design. For a stone fence, ivy or tall plants, climbing roses or wild roses are good.
• Inside, along the perimeter of the site, it is good to design a walking path along the fence, planting it with flowers and bushes.
• If the site is large and the path is long, it is good to place gazebos or benches there.

Types and selection of stone

There are a lot of varieties of stone fences: this and river stone, and sandstone, and shell rock, and granite, and dolomite, and even pebbles in a wire mesh frame. There are also fences that are combinations different options - different types stones in one fence, stone with wood in any combination, stone with metal corrugated board, stone with forged or mesh inserts, and so on.

1. Boulders, cobblestones. Such a fence is relatively inexpensive. Large boulders and cobblestones are stacked on a large amount of mortar. They are usually yellow-gray in color, rounded. Such a fence will perfectly fit into any design of the territory. On such fences climbing plants and moss take root with pleasure, which is very beautiful. In addition, boulder stone can be used for landscape design - to build alpine hills for flowers, to pave paths with it, to line the banks of reservoirs. And then your site will be solved in a single artistic style.
2. A pebble having a flat round or oval shape, due to its smaller size (from 1 to 15 centimeters in diameter) is more often used in gabion nets. It's quite a budget option stone fence - but not very pretty. If you try hard, you can put the pebbles on the solution in the form of a fence, having previously built the formwork. Or veneer a fence made of brick or other stone.
3. Gravel - fine fraction rock. It is also used in gabion meshes and concrete poured fences. It is always included in the composition of the mortar for any foundation of a stone fence, and before pouring the foundation it is filled up and tamped into the pit.
4. Marble is the most expensive material for building a fence. Therefore, you will not see a marble fence anywhere, but the marble cladding of a fence built from another stone - yes. Although it is also very expensive. Smooth, so it is poorly fixed with mortar during masonry.
5. Dolomite is similar to marble, but not with such a pronounced color and pattern. It is much cheaper, but also much more hygroscopic than marble, therefore, before laying, it requires pre-treatment with special compounds, which is called hydrophobization. It also has a non-porous, smooth surface. Dolomite fences are very beautiful.
6. Granite is solidified magma. The most durable material among stones for construction, frost-resistant and heat-resistant. But it is also very expensive, therefore, like marble, it is often used for facing the fence. It comes in black, brown, gray and dark red.
7. Sandstone is also heat-resistant and quite durable. In terms of strength, it is much inferior to marble and granite. It is easy to cut and process, therefore, as a rule, it goes on sale in the form of regular-shaped parallelepipeds. Its colors are yellow, gray-green, the color of burnt clay. It also requires hydrophobization.
8. Travertine - calcareous tuff. Very beautiful, used for construction and cladding. Similar in properties and appearance to sandstone, but better in properties.
9. Limestone, aka shell rock. Formed by the remains of marine organisms, on the cut, shell imprints or the shells themselves are clearly visible. Cuts like limestone. Poorly resistant to temperature extremes and moisture, also requires hydrophobization. More often it is used not for construction, but for decoration.
10. Butovy stone. Natural stone of volcanic origin of irregular shape, distributed and mined near Rostov. One of the most popular materials: beautiful, reliable, adheres well to any solution. Booth is divided into three types in shape: sawn, or flagstone, polygonal flat stone thickness from 1 to 7 centimeters with a rough surface; and a torn stone - not flat, but voluminous, with a thickness of more than 7 centimeters.
11. Fake diamond. There are several types. Porcelain stoneware is obtained by vibrating clay with the addition of paint and stone filler. Then it is fired in muffle furnaces. It is glossy, matte, embossed and glazed, and practically does not differ in appearance from natural stone, but much cheaper.

    The agglomerate is made from polyester resin with stone filler. Visually does not differ from natural, but much easier and cheaper.

    Artificial concrete stone is made from concrete with filler. The cheapest and not very high quality looking artificial stone.

12. Pergon or gabion. This french word it just means “stones in a grid” - a metal mesh structure filled with stones. Stones can be of any type, but relatively small ones are more often used for this purpose. Pergons - ready-made modules-boxes from a grid with stones; the fence is simply assembled, like a constructor, with the help of a truck crane. The gabion is mounted on site in the entire required length of the fence.

Photo gallery: a combination of different types of stone and other materials in fences

Fence made of stone with wrought iron inserts Sawn limestone fence with palisade Fence made of stone with wooden shields Fence made of dolomite, pebbles and cobblestones Buta fence with wrought iron inserts Buta fence with bricks Dolomite fence with plastered and painted insert Gabion fence with an empty strip planted with greenery Rubble fence with boards Stone fence with Italian plaster insert Gabion fence with grooved mesh Booth and dolomite Stylization under the English fence Cobblestone, brick, picket fence Rubble stone with corrugated board

How to make a stone fence with your own hands

Preparation

Reference consumption of materials per 1 cubic meter of stone masonry

Approximate consumption of stone per cubic meter of fence, depending on the type of masonry

The approximate ratio of the amount of stone and mortar, depending on the density of laying when laying without gravel backfill.

The approximate ratio of the amount of stone, gravel (or fuel slag for backfill) and mortar, depending on the density of laying when masonry with gravel backfill.

materials

Tools

Construction stages

1. We mark the territory with twine and pegs.
2. We dig a trench under the strip foundation. There is a rule: the width of the pit is 15 centimeters larger than the thickness of the future fence; its depth is 70–80 centimeters for a fence up to two meters high. If the fence is higher, then the trench is made deeper: 10 centimeters for every extra meter of height.
3. We determine the place of the supporting pillars, they should stand every 2.5–3 meters. Without such pillars, the structure will be much less durable. Concrete pillars are poured independently.

   But there is an alternative - ready-made concrete-block supports. Electric wires can be placed in such hollow poles to illuminate the fence.