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Combined facial cleansing - “the best procedure for problem skin! but what could be wrong? photo and what happened to the face after cleaning. Ways to cleanse your face at home

Problem skin is harder to care for than other skin types, but problem skin is not a type: any skin can become problematic when improper care and lack of attention, or simply because of careless treatment of one's health - appearance does not improve from such an attitude.

For some reason, we often call problem skin oily, prone to the formation of acne and blackheads, and there are a lot of cosmetics for the care of such skin, but you need to be able to select and use it correctly - otherwise, skin problems will only increase.

First of all, it is necessary to provide problematic skin with the right step-by-step care It needs to be cleansed, toned and moisturized daily. Scrubs should be used periodically, as needed.

Problem skin cleansing

Purchased cleansing products are antibacterial soaps, special facial cleansers and lotions. Exfoliating masks can be used if there is no inflammation on the skin - you can make homemade masks or buy them in a pharmacy.

Tonics also cleanse the skin, removing small impurities that may remain after the use of cleansers - the skin after toning becomes natural and healthy color.

Any skin needs to be moisturized - gel-based products are suitable for oily and problem skin, which contain enough minerals and vitamins, as well as extracts of medicinal herbs.

The rules for choosing cosmetics for problem skin are not so complicated.. When buying cosmetics in a store, choose products famous brands, and about unfamiliar cosmetics, before buying it, it is better to learn more by contacting a beautician or pharmacists.

We are used to the fact that alcohol dries out, and therefore we choose products with alcohol, but this is wrong: the constant use of such products can destroy the fatty layer of the skin, and its condition worsens. Cosmetics with normal level"pH" for problem skin is the safest - it does not destroy anything, but with a tendency to irritation, you should use a special professional cosmetics, with vitamins and oils: it solves skin problems much more effectively, although it costs more than conventional care products.

Fat in decorative cosmetics for problem skin, there should be a little, but anti-inflammatory ingredients must be included in its composition. When buying any cosmetics for problem skin, you should check their labeling: if they say “non-comedogenic”, then you can buy them - they will not clog the sebaceous glands.

Important rule: no matter how elite and effective cosmetics for problem skin are, they must be washed off at night - with the exception of special care products.


Cosmetics manufactured industrially always contain chemical components - to one degree or another, although the packaging often says - "with natural extracts", etc. natural ingredients it really does have it, but there are usually very few of them, but there are always enough synthetic ones, and they get into our skin every day. Of course, we cannot and do not want to completely exclude industrial cosmetics from our lives: sometimes it helps a lot - especially when time is short, but do not forget about home care products - their regular use can make any skin cleaner and healthier.

Folk remedies for problematic skin

First of all, you can make your own soap, homemade - you need a soap base, and what you want to add to it - everyone has their own tastes. It is best to buy in the store a special soap base, without any additives, but you can use the usual baby soap- grate it on a grater and melt in a water bath. To the melted soap, alternately add green clay(powder), mix, add oil grape seeds with essential oils - they are dissolved in the base oil in advance. Basics (or baby soap) will need 100 g of powder green clay- 1 tbsp, grape seed oil - 1 tsp, essential oils of rosemary and tea tree- 3 drops. ready mix poured into molds - in half an hour or an hour it will harden.


Green clay perfectly cleanses oily skin, tightens pores, normalizes sebum production and tones; grape seed oil moisturizes it and nourishes it with vitamins. Essential oils of tea tree and rosemary are very useful for problem skin: the first soothes, promotes cell regeneration, heals acne and inflammation, returns a healthy color to the face, and the second improves blood circulation and skin turgor, softens it and cleanses the pores, eliminating comedones - black dots.
The smell of such soap is no worse than that of the purchased one, however, baby soap does not smell as attractive, so it is better to use a soap base after all.

Moisturizing problem skin

Moisturize cleansed skin: you can use a moisturizer, masks, thermal and mineral water, but today there are products that are very suitable for problem skin - these are hydrolates obtained by steam distillation from various medicinal plants - aloe vera, chamomile, ylang-ylang, neroli, etc.

Hydrosols are today called an alternative to tonics: they retain some of the properties of essential oils, but are much safer than them, and do not cause irritation and inflammation even on delicate skin and mucous membranes. Hydrosols can be used undiluted: it is advisable to spray them on problem areas of the skin or on the entire face - they tone and have an astringent effect. Hydrosols even help in the treatment of skin diseases, but it is better to use them little by little throughout the day - up to 12 times, than to treat problem areas with a large amount of the product at once - this way you can heal cuts, wounds and burns, treat eczema, dermatitis and psoriasis; For problematic skin, this approach is also more preferable.

If the skin is not prone to inflammation, you can use cosmetic ice: mineral water, decoction of chamomile or sage.

Homemade creams and remedies for problem skin

You can also prepare homemade face creams, but if there is no experience yet, you should start with simple oil mixtures. For this to base oils essential oils are added in certain proportions - for the care of oily and problem skin, you can pick up quite a lot of such oils. From the base it is almond, apricot, sesame, seeds black currant, jojoba, grape seed, hazelnut, Alexandrian laurel - tamanu, growing in Indonesia and Madagascar, and possessing many therapeutic actions- antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, healing, etc. The last oil in pure form great for treating acne.

Choosing the right combinations, you can restore the beauty and healthy color of the skin, smooth it out and smooth fine wrinkles, give it a calm matte shade.

Essential oils are especially beneficial for problematic skin., normalizing the secretion of sebum, having anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and other medicinal properties; they are usually added to a mixture of base oils - 1-2 drops per 5 ml. To such essential oils, in addition to the already mentioned tea tree and rosemary oils, sandalwood, verbena, eucalyptus, juniper, cypress, ylang-ylang, bergamot, Atlas cedar, geranium, caraway, clary sage, palmarosa, ginger, lemongrass, lavender oils can be attributed to oily and problematic skin, these oils are very useful. Mix only compatible oils, and add them gradually, one every 1.5-2 hours, and insist about 4 days before use.

It is not easy to choose the right compositions of oils for yourself - for this you will have to try for a while, but gradually you will find recipes for your own, individual products.

A simple but effective mixture can be prepared from hazelnut oils (5 parts), jojoba and grape seed (2 parts each), and apricot (1 part). Essential oils are added to the base oils: rosemary, lavender and tea tree. If the mixture is too fatty, then more grape and nut oil should be taken, but if the fat content is not enough, add more jojoba and apricot oil.
This mixture cleanses clogged pores, eliminates earthy skin tone and regulates sebum production.

By learning how to choose the right ingredients and prepare home remedies for problem skin care, you will gradually get rid of

I more than a year did not dare to return the visit, but the desire to put the skin in order before important event still prevailed. This time I looked for the masters more carefully, not on the advice of friends, but on my own, looking through their work. And I found a girl who herself suffered from acne in her youth, which influenced her choice of profession. So she specializes in skin care.

NB! Taught by bitter experience, now I can say for sure that when choosing a cosmetologist for your first procedure, you should definitely look for a specialist who deals with skin treatment, and not beauty injections, who at the same time seem to know how to do cleansing, but have no idea how to work with problem skin. Too bad I didn't know this before.

This time, the beautician examined the skin and decided for herself what kind of cleaning better fit. So they made a combined one on medical cosmetics, which, as I found out later, also acts as a light superficial peeling. The beautician commented on every step, and I knew what was happening to my face. The first step was an acid cleansing, then a scrub and several products with acids, a warming mask; after cleansing brightening lotion, mask and protective cream. By the way, I even felt the difference in the cosmetics used on the first and second visits: then they smeared layer after layer with just “something pleasantly smelling”, and now each stage of cleaning, each product was distinguished by a pronounced sensation and effect on the skin. That's the difference in medical cosmetics!

The whole complex of procedures took about two hours. The beautician will apply another product for a period of 15 to 30 minutes and leave. And I mostly lay, relaxed

Of course, during the actual cleaning had to endure. From what I understand, most of the cleaning was done with an uno spoon. Apparatus for ultrasonic cleaning Beautician picked up several times.

After the end of the procedures, my face was very red, but I was ready for this, I took a gauze bandage with me, because. I had to go home by public transport.

Arriving home, immediately photo. Here is the face immediately after cleansing:

On this day it was impossible to wash. The face hurt a lot, as if it was one continuous bruise, and it became very oily after such aggressive impact. The beautician said that the redness will come down to next day, but they told me so the last time, so I didn’t really believe it, but already after 4 hours the face looks like this:

The next day after cleaning, the face still hurt, but it was possible to wash with water. With such sensitive skin, When light touch causes pain, I did not dare to use my usual gel for combination skin. Only water. The face continued to be very shiny. But the redness really almost subsided, only dots remained:


After 2 days I already went out into the street. The secretion decreased, and some areas of the skin began to peel off or crust over (because the products included acids, superficial peeling and all that):


In 3 days a slight aggravation began - a few pimples came out, but it seems like this is a common thing. The chin and wings of the nose began to peel off strongly. Sensitivity has gone completely and the rest of the skin condition has stabilized:

  • Signs of problem skin
  • Causes of problems
  • Prevention of skin problems
  • Cosmetical tools
  • Cosmetic procedures

Signs of problem skin

Cosmetologists tend to call problematic oily skin prone to pimples and acne. In patients suffering from acne, the formation of sebum significantly increases and its composition changes (the concentration of linoleic acid decreases). This leads to hyperkeratosis, and subsequently to clogging of the pores and the appearance of closed and open comedones, or black dots.

All of the above changes the relief of the skin not in better side, and also creates favorable conditions for the reproduction of bacteria Propionibacterium acnes and the formation of inflammatory elements.

So, the main characteristics of problem skin:

    enlarged pores;

    oily sheen;

    black dots;

  • post-acne scars.

The main skin problems - blackheads, oily sheen, pimples, enlarged pores © iStock

Causes of problems

Quantity sebaceous glands in the body of each person is genetically incorporated. But the intensity of the work of these glands can change throughout life. Skin problems can accompany you not only in transitional age, but also appear in 30–40 years.

What can cause them:

    hormonal imbalance;

    genetic predisposition;

    improperly selected care;

    insufficient cleansing of the skin;

    malnutrition;

    environmental pollution;

What kind of skin can be problematic

    Combined

    It is distinguished by oily sheen and enlarged pores in the T-zone.

    Characteristics - oily sheen and enlarged pores all over the face.

  • Dehydrated problematic

    It shows oily sheen, enlarged pores, comedones. Inflammatory rashes - all over the face or in its individual zones. Plus, redness, peeling, burning, a feeling of tightness that occurs when drug treatment and aggressive grooming.


In the care of problem skin, the most milestone– cleansing © iStock

How to care for problem skin

Perhaps the most important step in oily skin care is cleansing. In the morning and in the evening, by special means.

One of the main problems of owners oily skin prone to acne - a violation of the surface hydrolipid layer. As a result of aggressive care or treatment, the skin becomes dehydrated and sensitive. Therefore, it is important to avoid soaps, alcohol-based cosmetics and choose products with a pH of 5.0-5.5 (i.e. appropriate normal skin pH).

As part of products for problem skin, acids, components with anti-inflammatory and matting effects should be present.

cleansing

Trying to get rid of oily sheen, owners of problem skin cleanse the skin “to a squeak” with the help of aggressive agents and thereby achieve the opposite effect - they break the hydrolipid layer, provoke new inflammation and dryness.

choose soft remedies, for example, with zinc content. It regulates the production of sebum. Also, the composition should contain restorative components.

Invest in foams and tonics. Be careful with scrubs. If you have an acute acne phase, it is better to refuse mechanical exfoliants, they can increase inflammatory process. If acne is behind you, use a scrub twice a week. Choose one that contains antibacterial and sebum-regulating ingredients.

If you have enlarged pores, try using Clarisonic for cleansing. Suitable brush attachment for washing and deep cleansing pores on the face. Her bristles are different length and positioned to effectively remove oil and dirt that clog pores.


Scrubs are not always suitable for problem skin, but she loves clay masks very much © iStock

Moisturizing

This important step in oily skin care is often overlooked, mistakenly thinking that moisturizing will cause shine. Contrary to myths, oily skin can and should be moisturized to restore its hydro-lipid mantle. Choose light textures - vibes and mousses.

Don't forget about the need to protect your already vulnerable skin from ultraviolet radiation. Both regular day cream and foundation should contain SPF sun protection factors.

Prevention of skin problems

    wash your face a little warm water . Hot dries out the skin and stimulates sebum production.

    Thoroughly take off your makeup every night. If using oil or milk, rinse with water.

    For morning wash choose a soft gel With fruit acids then apply toner and moisturizer.

    Exfoliators such as scrubs and peels should not contain too large abrasive particles, otherwise there is a risk of causing microdamages to the skin, which can then turn into inflammation.

    Before applying the cream refresh skin tonic, it visually narrows the pores. Tonic formulas often have a cumulative effect - after a month regular use You will definitely notice that the skin has become more even.

    During the day use matting wipes. As soon as you notice an oily sheen, blot them on the T-zone and chin.

    Foundation should be light and contain soothing and caring components.

Cosmetical tools


    Cleansing gel « Endless freshness, L'Oréal Paris, with rose and jasmine extract.

    Gel, scrub, mask « Clean skin 3-in-1, Garnier, with zinc, pumice and white clay.

    Mineral pore-clearing mask, Vichy, with white clay, allantoin and aloe vera.

    Mattifying cream sorbet "Revitalizing Moisturizing", Garnier with green tea extract.

    Fast-acting, targeted treatment against imperfections Normaderm Hyaluspot, Vichy, with salicylic, lipohydroxy and hyaluronic acids.


    Face gel with brush "Clean Skin Active Exfopro", Garnier, against acne for oily skin with salicylic acid.

    Skin texture resurfacing agent Epidermal Re-Texturizing Micro-Dermabrasion, Kiehl's, with aluminum oxide powder, alginate and shea butter.

    Purifying Mattifying Mask Effaclar, La Roche Posay, with two kinds of mineral clay.

    Corrective care against imperfections Normaderm 24H, Vichy with salicylic acid.

    Corrective agent for local action Effaclar A.I., La Roche-Posay, with niacinamide and lipohydroxy acid.

Cosmetic procedures

Below is a list of the most effective methods, which cosmetologists resort to to alleviate the condition of problem skin.


Apart from cosmetic care for problem skin, there are cosmetic procedures© iStock

Chemical peel

It is usually used to smooth out the microrelief of the skin (including post-acne correction). As a means of combating acne and post-acne use aqueous solutions or gels based on various acids:

    salicylic;

    almond;

    glycolic;

    dairy;

    pyruvic;

    retinoic;

    trichloroacetic.

Plasma therapy

Today it is one of the most effective methods. A safe method of regenerative medicine is based on the principles of auto-stimulation. Its essence lies in the allocation of plasma from the patient's blood and its introduction by injection.

Platelet-rich plasma has a powerful anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory effect.

Ozone therapy

An effective anti-inflammatory technique for acne. Procedures are recommended to be done in a course of 10-15 sessions. The result is a significant reduction in inflammation, lightening of post-inflammatory spots and prevention of new rashes.

How to wash, how to wash and why wash at all if you have problem skin.

If a person is tormented by acne, he, according to my observations, tends to fall into two extremes: 1) focuses on cleansing, scrubs his face to a creak, washes 7 times a day, completely ignoring other means - tonics, creams, medications; 2) on the contrary, he begins to use tonics, creams, serums, masks, medicines with enthusiasm, but does not think about cleansing his face and washes as usual - with soap, water ...

Followers of both extremes do not reach desired result in the form of clean, healthy skin.

Therefore, today I would like to talk about some of the obligatory intricacies of washing with problem skin, dispel a couple of myths and talk about them with you, and also talk about a few right, from my point of view, cleansers.

1. The myth that problematic skin needs to be washed more often than other skin types .

Many acne sufferers have heard the phrase " Maybe you should wash more often?". This is both extremely offensive and fundamentally wrong. As if a person is some kind of inept, and all his troubles are from a lack of hygiene. In fact, problem skin needs to be washed no more often than any other - on demand . Definitely in the evening - to wash off makeup and / or dust, dirt, soot that settle on the skin during the day. Definitely in the morning - to refresh your face and again wash off dust, etc. from it. things invisible to the eye that are collected from contact with a pillow, hair, a cat lying on a pillow, etc. During the day - if you returned from a street where a dusty wind was blowing, or if you were driving in a car with open windows, or cut off the wallpaper, or just got really dirty in something. More often it is not necessary.

After all, what is washing? This is washing off existing contaminants with water and soap. If there is no pollution, but simply, for example, excess sebum has come out - it is better to get it wet with a matting napkin than to wash with water and gel. Washing with gel is always a little stressful for the face, it dries the skin and requires the application of a soothing toner and moisturizer. If you are not ready for this, blot your face with a napkin and leave it alone.

2. The myth that problematic skin needs to be cleansed with harsher products than other skin types .

The most harmful myth. Thinking that they have some kind of especially filthy, dirty skin, people with acne buy super-hard cleansers, scrubs, loofah sponges and scrub, scrub, scrub the poor face. As a result of microtrauma (and after twenty, the skin does not regenerate so well, by the way), microbes from inflammatory elements spread throughout the face, the skin is irritated, overdried and - woe! - She has more pimples.

No guys. Problem skin like skin with inflammation - always sensitive. It must be treated with extreme care. No big scrubs, no loofah, no drying washes with alcohol, ALS and ALES. Just a good but gentle wash. Only warm water, not hot and not cold, so as not to stress the skin and not cause congestion.

3. Should you be afraid of SLS?

Complex issue. On the one hand, 90% of cleansers containing SLS, SLES, ALS, ALES did not satisfy me. On the other hand, there were exceptions and, in the end, some cosmetic companies that I respect very much, which produce products for cosmetologists, allow the presence of SLS in some of their washing products - for example, СHRISTINA, KOSMOTEROS.

And yet here exceptions, in my opinion, only reinforces the rule. The presence of SLS in the composition for me is a marker of low quality and, if the product is expensive, disrespect for the consumer. SLS nullifies everything beneficial features other ingredients - acids, extracts, etc. If there is SLS in the wash, I won't buy it. And I do not advise you. There are more gentle detergent components, the list of which can be found on the net.

4. Should I use sponges, mittens, etc.?

The answer is simple enough. If you wash, dry, store in a clean place (preferably hanging) such products and use them not longer than a month- Yes. If after washing you do not wash the sponge, do not wring it out, throw it on the sink, where it lies wet in a humid room and is filled with germs, fungi, etc. - NO!

Which sponge to use is a matter of taste. I like soft cellulose sponges and comfortable anatomically shaped konjac sponges. To better rub the nose and remove black dots, a linen or nettle sponge is good. But leave the hard loofah to the heels - they should not injure the skin.

5. What should be in the composition of the cleanser in order for it to be useful for problem skin?

Acids - AHA and BHA. Plant extracts - for example, chamomile, nettle, marigold, witch hazel. Tea tree oil. Triclosan. Azulene. Yes, there could be many things.

It is important to remember that the product for washing does not come into contact with the skin for very long, and you won’t go far with one wash - almost everything that is in it floats down the drain of the sink along with water.

6. Why is the pH of your cleanser important?

Here's why you should pay attention to the pH of your cleanser.

If you remember a little chemistry, then there are three types of environment - acidic, neutral and alkaline. Inside a person has a predominantly alkaline environment, and a violation of its balance leads to various diseases. And here healthy state our skin is acidic. The skin has a so-called "acid mantle" that protects itself skin and all body from outside bacteria.

Acidic pH is a pH less than 4, alkaline - from 6.5. The ideal pH is 5.5.

Most cleansers, especially soaps and soap products with SLS, have an alkaline pH of 10-10.5. It rips off the protective acid mantle from the skin, exposing it to bacterial attack. The skin is restored up to 16 hours, and by this time, you yourself understand, it's time to wash again. Regular alkalization of the skin leads to various skin diseases- acne, dermatitis, even eczema. Therefore, in terms of pH, there are two rules for washing: in the morning - washing with a neutral pH that cleanses the skin without harming its pH level, at night - an acidic wash. For example, I now use Christina Fresh azulene wash with neutral pH in the morning, and Christina Comodex acid wash with pH 2.5 in the evening.

Another nuance - acid washing washes off makeup very badly, foundation creams and so on. Therefore, after work / study, you first need to wash yourself with a neutral pH product, and only then with an acidic one.

Soap, especially solid, I do not wash my face for a very long time. Solid soaps, among other things, contain hardeners that thicken sebum and prevent it from flowing out of the pores. Pores get clogged and inflamed.

7. Additional funds make-up remover nnnda?

NNNADA! Modern foundation are no longer washed off not only with water, but even with soap products. Therefore, if you do makeup with BB cream, primer, fixer and a bunch of layers of everything on your face, be sure to use special makeup removers - milk, hydrophilic oil, micellar water, etc. And after them, washing is a must.

An interesting opinion, it seems, Krygina, that it is not necessary to wash your face with water, I categorically do not accept. I immediately recall the phrase of the provincial heroine Irina Muravyova from the film "Carnival": " No, I don't wash my face with water. This causes wrinkles to appear. current lotion". Any make-up removers themselves need to be washed off. Period. If you want to experiment on yourself and just wipe your face with milk, please. Tell me later. And I pass.

8. So what are good washes?

I can give a list of washes that are ideal for me as the owner of oily, problematic, thick skin:

  • Azulene soap CHRISTINA for normal to dry skin Fresh Azulene Cleansing- neutral wash for morning and evening, containing the antibacterial component azulene. Suitable for all skin types in my opinion. The cost is 1300 rubles per 300 ml;
  • Shower gel Cleon - gentle, with a lot of extracts, also any type skin suit. The cost is about 270 rubles per 100 ml;
  • Shower gel joyskin for sensitive, oily and problematic skin- a pleasant novelty in the line of Russian pharmacy cosmetics;
  • Shower gel CHRISTINA COMODEX cleansing gel - good evening washing with acids. The cost is 1850 rubles for 250 ml;
  • Phyto-gel for washing Planeta Organica for oily and combination skin - budget, but very worthy tool without SLS. 170 rubles for 200 ml;
  • Foam for washing Mentholatum ACNES Clear & Whitening Face Wash- so far the only worthy Asian foam cleanser among the gels, thoroughly cleansing the pores. The cost is 585 rubles for 130g;
  • Shower gel Propeller IMMUNO with anti-acne complex- very budgetary and in all respects the correct soft gel. Price - about 120 rubles per 150 ml;
  • Shower gel Toit Bel teen exfoliating- soft Swiss gel with salicylic acid and triclosan;
  • Shower gel Sanoflore Purifying for problem skin- with an amazingly delicious smell mild natural gel with plant extracts;
  • 3-in-1 biocon washing gel, mask, scrub- a good thing for cleansing the face with a creamy mask texture;
  • Shower gel KOSMOTEROS Gel Nettoyant aux AHA- excellent gel with acids, one of the few exceptions with SLS that I have had. The cost is 925 rubles per 200 ml.

As you can see, the list includes pharmaceutical products, both salon and mass market. But there are no famous VICHY Nornaderm and La Roche-Posay Effaclar - I can’t stand these pseudo-pharmacy products that are not worth the money, there is no Clinique soap for oily skin, which is more like Domestos in composition.

Try to avoid gels with an unpleasant "snotty" texture, which only smear on the face, but form a bad foam - in my experience, they clean C grade (for example, shungite ghoul from Fratti, neem gel from Himalaya Hebals). The same applies to washes (usually with a creamy texture), which leave a feeling of film, plaque on the face (for example, "Fresh" from "Beauty Cream"). Foams, for my taste, for oily skin are too soft and wash poorly. Korean foams for the most part did not impress me either.

Wash properly! Let washing your face be your first firm step towards beautiful and healthy skin!

If you have questions and suggestions, as always, ready for dialogue.